c-p-j

LOWEST PRICE: Yashicamat--perhaps $120 to $150.

Best VALUE & Quality: ROLLEIFLEX, the 1952 2.8 C or 1954 MX 3.5 to the 1956 E from $200 to $400. (Lower priced yet, Rolleiflex 1949 Automat X to 1953 Automat 4,$175 to $250.) Rollei lenses from Zeiss Opton Tessar and Scheneider Xenar to the Planar and Xenotar are highest quality and Rolleiflex mechanical reliability is excellent. (Forget the Rolleicord as the automatic will only be $50 more; avoid the Rollei 4x4--127 film--and the Rolleiflex T,

Buy a Rolleiflex from about 1952 on with a Xenotar or Planar lens, then get a Maxwell focusing screen which is 10X brighter than the original screen and can be had with a center microprism or rangefinder split image at no extra cost. You will never regret it. Check out Rollei sites on the web, especially"The Unofficial Rolleiflex TLR Page" run by Torbjorn Aase from Norway at

 

"www.foto.no/rolleiflex"

 

You will find a lot of information about Rollei models at this site.

Andrea, you have the ability to see a photograph from life and this is more important than any particular camera. However, having always owned at least one Leica at all times over the last 40 years--I now have four--you will find that it is a magnificent tool, at times indispensible. Don't sell your Nikon or Hasselblad however; you'll only end up buying them back in some form or another at a higher price. Knowing which tool to use at what time is equally important. If you reach for the tool and it isn't there, you sacrifice the opportunity to do your best work.

About $1200--$1400, plus or minus $100 depending if you buy from a dealer or a private party.

You are correct that the manual is quite lacking in clarity. However, if you set the meter up for the Zone function, be sure the exposure is set to read in F-stops and not EV's or it really gets confusing.

Use the top button to take your shadow reading. This will automatically show as a Zone V on the scale. Turn the setting wheel until the dot over Zone V moves down to the Zone where you want shadow detail to be just clear enough to see--for example Zone III.

 

Take your highlight reading using the bottom button and look at the screen. You will see the shadow mark over Zone III and the highlight reading over perhaps Zone VII. Between the two will be a flashing dot over Zone V. Depress the left arrow button, move the setting wheel one notch downward, and the readings on the screen will show as an f-stop and (t) exposure time. Use this exposure to have detail in both shadows and highlights which you read with the meter. (At this point you can also turn the wheel to automatically come up with f-stop and speed combinations which produce the same overall exposure. So if you are shooting a sports scene, you can use a high shutter speed and the wider f-stop will automatically be calculated for you.)

 

If you had an extreme brightness range and you placed the shadow reading in Zone III and then your highlight reading ended up in Zone X for example, you have to understand the Zone System is telling you that the highlight reading is beyond the range of the film speed you are using--the highlights will wash out. So you have to either use a slower film or place your shadow reading down at Zone I or II where you will get little detail, but you'll move the highlight range into Zone VIII (which is the maximum where you will see any detail if using reversal film--slides.)

 

Actually, with most slide film you are better to keep the exposure range between Zones III and VII for good color saturation and detail. Using b&w film gives you more latitude but if you are planning to "adjust" the zone detail by adjusting the development time, remember that longer or shorter development applies to the whole roll in medium format.

 

And, as a rule of thumb, expose for the shadow detail and develop for the highlights when using b&w as the shadow area "develops" first--reaches its maximum--but the highlight range can be built up by extending development or "pushing" the film.

 

When using roll film for different subject matter--especially for reversal film--controlling detail and contrast by adjusting exposure within the Zone System is the only real control you have. Ideally, of course, maximum control is obtained only when using sheet film and recording notes on the conditions and brightness range on the Zone Scale which you read for each exposure, then matching that to development time or choice of developers.

 

All that said, the Gossen Starlight is a good meter but the manual is not very clearly written. You can use it for "multiple" readings to make sure important areas are going to fall within your brightness range and then make a judgement call as to whether you are going to "favor" the highlights or the shadow--more color saturation--with a quarter or half-stop adjustment.

 

I hope this helps a little. (I can't find my manual right now or perhaps I could be a little more explicit about the finer points of applying the zone system to color reversal film where there is little exposure latitude and consequently not much room for error.)

You are making what has become a "confusion of terminology" or a "distinction WITH a difference" or just a lack of the English language to come up with proper terminology. THere is "Cricket" and there is "Baseball" and both games use a ball and a bat and are quite similar but very different. There is "photography" and there is "digital imaging." They are two entirely different games.

Shriro acquires Hasselblad, the Swedish camera manufacturer

 

2003-01-30 The Shriro Group acquires the majority shareholding in

Victor Hasselblad AB. The purchase agreement was announced today at a

press conference at the Hasselblad premises in the centre of

Gothenburg.

 

 

- Shriro is well-known to Hasselblad, and has succeeded very well in

selling our products into the key markets in Asia, says Göran

Bernhoff, President and CEO of Victor Hasselblad AB. Shriro is our

distributor in several key Asian markets and has, amongst other

things shown its capability together with Hasselblad in developing

the Japanese and Chinese markets as major outlets for Hasselblad.

 

Seven years ago Incentive (today Gambro) sold Hasselblad to UBS

Capital BV in Holland, Cinven in Great Britain and the Hasselblad

management. This sale was in line with Incentive�s wish to

concentrate its operations. The aim of the purchase was to modernize

Hasselblad�s operations as well as to renew the product portfolio,

which has been substantially achieved.

 

 

 

 

Michael Binns, CEO of Shriro Group and Göran Bernhoff, CEO of Victor

Hasselblad AB standing by a poster of the new H1 camera.

 

- We buy a company in a very good condition with a new, world-leading

product on its way to the market, says Michael R Binns, CEO of

Shriro. We have a long experience in marketing strong brands and we

see Hasselblad as a great opportunity to expand our operations. This

acquisition will mean significant synergies between our two

companies, in particular in the field of distribution.

 

Shriro is a 90 year old family business with production and

distribution of several well-known and worldwide brands. The company

has its major operation in the Asian Pacific region. The head-office

is situated in Hong Kong and Shriro employs around 3,800 people in 13

countries and has a turnover of more than 2.5 billion Swedish Kronor,

equal to 300 million US dollars.

 

The Hasselblad family started its company in 1841. Since mid 1870

Hasselblad has had its centre of operations in the same building

downtown Gothenburg. In May this year the company will move to new

office and production premises in a newly established high-tech

industrial and university area, named Norra Älvstranden, Gothenburg.

 

The company has recently carried through a successful, worldwide

launch of a new unique camera system, built for traditional film as

well as digital photography. The H1camera, which took nearly 6 years

to develop from �idea� to a �finished product�, opens up new markets

for Hasselblad. Deliveries of the new system started in December

2002.

 

Hasselblad today has the most wide spread camera system in the world

within the medium format, the so-called V system. This system

originates from 1948 and will also in the future be an important part

of the sales.

 

During the latter part of the 90:s Hasselblad has gone through

extensive structural changes and when the company moves into the new

premises the efficiency gain will be substantial. This move marks the

completion of this period of manufacturing and product renewal, and

the company is now ready to embark into a new era.

 

The change of ownership will not mean any major changes of the

Hasselblad business philosophy. Mr. Göran Bernhoff will remain as

President and CEO of the company and the new owners also stress the

importance of the continuity of the management in the years ahead of

the company. The management will remain as minority shareholders.

 

 

 

 

Göran Bernhoff, CEO of Victor Hasselblad AB together with Michael

Binns, CEO of Shriro Group inspecting a model of the new Hasselblad

premises.

 

About Victor Hasselblad AB

For over half a century, Hasselblad cameras have been the preferred

tools of discerning photographers the world over. Hasselblad cameras

were the first cameras on the moon and are renowned for their

outstanding image quality, long-life, and rugged durability.

Hasselblad produces and markets three distinct camera systems: The

legendary Hasselblad 6x6 V System, with its classic, compact design

and unmatched adaptability, still the most comprehensive medium

format system in the world; the unique dual-format Hasselblad XPan,

which takes full, unmasked panorama or standard 35 mm shots on the

same roll of 35 mm film; and the new, auto-focus 645 Hasselblad H

System, which seamlessly combines film, digital, and slide

photography and provides a level of user-friendliness previously

found only in 35 mm SLR cameras.

 

Over 97% of Hasselblad�s products are exported for sale in foreign

markets and the Company has offices, distributors, service outlets,

and representatives worldwide. Victor Hasselblad AB is a privately

owned company based in Gothenburg, Sweden.

 

 

 

SPELLING camera names correctly is not important. How dare someone suggest Rollei should be spelled correctly and not "Rollie." I mean what's wrong with "Rollee?" or even "Rolley" We'd all still know what we are talking about, right? RollE would even be more avant guarde, now wouldn't it?

 

Then we can go on to "Lyeka" and "Hazzelblard" and "Nykon" before we have to even consier "Codaack" and "Mummeea." Is there anybody who doesn't know what the previous misspellings represent?

 

Anyone who says, "YES" ought to get with the program. Right here on Photo.net we can lead the English language to a whole new phonetic pronouncing system and banqurupp all those dickshunerie cellars!

 

Then, and only then, will be it all right to spell my pet phrase "all right" as "alright" and save that excess "l" and space between words that so many seem it is their duty to impose upon us. After all, "already" is already recognized as a proper use, so if we adopt the proposed new phonetics, I will be relieved of sending my little memos to everyone who spells "all right" as "alright." [Just wanted to remind you who is responding to this post--it's me; the "all right" guy.]

ANDREA,

You summed up the essence of the question very clearly: " what's the slowest speed that safely prevents that motion from showing on film as blur. . . I guess all have opinions about that, though the only way to find it out is to do the laser test shooting with film at 1/125th, 1/60th, 1/30th... and print it!" IF YOU DO THE TESTS, IT WILL RESOLVE A LOT OF TRIPOD, Pan Head, Ball Head, Mirror Slap, cable release, etc. questions which have been posted on this board for the past two years with nothing but "opinions" to back up "theories" which sometimes originate in "dreams." Hard evidence is what we need, so take careful notes. Thanks from all of us!

Find a sewing needle or dentist's pick first. Get some Loosen-all oil or MysteryOil (in the red can). Spray a drop of oil onto something non-pourous like a dinner plate or piece of metal. Using the needle or dentist pick, dip the tip into the oil. Place the tip point into the joint where the filter meets the lens barrel on the OUTside, leaving a microscope "dot" of oil at six different places. Wait overnight; unscrew the filter. (Microscopic is the key word here.) Using the non-slip rubber band or rubber "jar lid remover" along with this technique will insure success.

What's the effect of a small scratch you can see but not feel?

 

None!

Adam,

You have to sift all the above answers but the theme is pretty much the same when you come right down to it. What you "need" for your purpose is a lightweight, rugged, reliable Rolleiflex, not a heavy Mamyia. I have eight Rolleis--all different. I happen to prefer the 3.5 Xenotar but in most cases the Planar/Xenotar debate is academic only. THe 3.5 Rollei with removeable hood, an E-2 or later model, and a Maxwell focusing screen is a must. I have his screens both with and without the little split-image rangefinder circle in the middle and I like it for precise focusing. The Maxwell screen is probably 10X brighter than the factory screen and cost about $120. In the past year I have had Marflex in NJ, former Rollei Company repair people, repair two cameras at different times, each with a 10-day turnaround. Harry Fleenor quotes 4-months as he works alone. Always get a time estimate for a CLA and send it to a reliable shop, especially if you have just bought the camera. If you have to worry about about carrying a high-priced camera on a trip, buy insurance. (I don't know any pros who took Yashicamats to Vietnam, but they did take Rollei's, including Dickie Chappelle who was killed there.)

Jim Bolz is correct. If it weren't for the $39.95 Peerflekta I purchased new from Peerless in about 1955 or '56, you wouldn't have to put up with reading all this stuff I contribute to the forum today. It was my first real camera.

 

The Peerflekta came in a II and III and V as far as I know and probably a I and IV as well. Translated to today's dollars I'd guess that's about $200 as a police officer's wage in 1955 was about $80 a week, on average. They were made in East Germany and most were stamped "U.S.S.R. Occupied Germany" but they had a good lens. The only weak point I recall was the flash pc connector which stuck out without any protection. (If you want to sell it; write me offline @ cpj@firemagazine.com)

Andrea,

 

Following a suggestion on this board over a year ago, I have often stabilized the tripod-mounted Hasselblad by holding it with both hands and exerting a downward pressure on the tripod at the same time. It seems to work, but if you already have your laser set up perhaps you could provide an answer at 1/30th, 1/15th or 1/10th?

A post yesterday mentioned the use of denatured alcohol as a lens filter cleaner. The author made a joking reference to it serving a "dual purpose" as a alcoholic drink. As to this form of alcohol, the poster did warn "seriously . .. it is not for consumption."

 

However due to the irreversible delayed reaction to ANY ingestion of this stuff, I feel compelled to add the following: Denatured Alcohol is 16.4 percent methanol. One teaspoon of methanol can cause total blindness in an adult; two teaspoonsful has caused death within 8 to 24 hours.

 

The kidneys and liver metabolize methanol into two lethal chemicals--formaldehyde and formic acid. I have treated two cases of what appeared to be incidental, minor methanol absorbtion--a mouthful of windshield washer fluid immediately spit out. But the hospital blood tests later showed methanol toxicity from absorbtion through the mucous membranes of the mouth.

 

I say this is no joking matter. [Yes, there are circumstances where someone drinking a cupful will show little effect the next day because of competing metabolic reactions, but lets not even go there.]

 

Methanol is seriously poisonous over 90-percent of the time it is ingested and survivable only if the victim seeks immediate advanced medical care. --C. Peter Jorgensen, NR-EMT.

Books.

 

It's all there.

 

Start with the Ansel Adams Series: 1, The Camera. 2,The Negative. 3.The Print.

 

Since the year 2000 marked the 20th reprinting of the series, he must have said something worthwhile there.

 

And take it slowly.

 

Very slowly.

 

You must be able to grasp the technical information--internalize it--so deeply that you can explain it to others in your own words.

 

Only then will you discover whether or not you have the individual creative talent to express your feelings and emotions through the medium of photography.

 

That's when you'll discover there is a difference between "taking pictures" and "making photographs."

 

Many professionals take pictures for a living.

Only a tiny few make photographs.

Q.G.deB. gives a good run down of the SWC models and the only thing I have to add is that the current "best available" choice is probably the 903SWC. The lens design change needed for the 905 was required by the environmental concerns for workers handling the tiny amount of lead used in the glass-making process.

 

For hundreds of years, a small amount of lead has been known to

enhance the purity and clarity of glass. However, today the "green"

regulations control everything. [Just look at Sadamm's A-bomb; they

wouldn't let him use any Uranium.]

 

Zeiss backhandedly admits the 905 glass is "almost as good" as the

903 and points to the improved material in the 905 shutter spring--the same used in CFi lenses.

 

I would suggest this spring material difference is critical only to

the "high volume" shutter-tripper, while the "slight" difference in

glass would lead me to select a "leaded" 903 SWC (which I doubt

killed very many people at Zeiss.)

Herein may lie your answer: Transparencies and film for scanning on

a "drum scanner" should never be mounted with oil. The proper stuff

to use--although more expensive--is "Kami Fluid Wet Mount" and after scanning the fillm should be cleaned with PEC-12 archival film

cleaner. Don't send your scans to a place which uses oil as a

mounting medium.

 

Now you know just about all I know about mounting drum scans, but I think it is enough to convey the idea that the reason people who do my scanning say,in essence, "If you want it mounted with oil, go someplace else. We don't want the responsbility."

Talk about persistance, here I go again: The Rollei 3.5 E2 on ebay which I called attention to in this forum while trying to find the guy who was looking for one here, was sold to A PHOTO.NET MEMBER. [Perhaps because of my post!]

For those who questioned the value of this Rollei, it was ebay Item No. 300102246 and since it has been sold you have to enter the item number if you want to see the details and photos. It got 8 bids and sold for $525. It had two Rolleinar close up lenses with it. The similar camera someone mentioned at Bob Rigby's was $475 GBP which translates to $775 US. Considering the 3.5 Xenotar is a sharper performer than the 2.8, I personally think $525 was a steal for somebody looking for a mint-condition Rollei E-2 of 1960 vintage.

Andrea, It really looks to me like the problem you see is nothing other than "camera movement." If you used a tripod, it's the slight vibration of the mirror slapping up; if handheld, that's your answer. Notice your long exposure tripod shot of the very large building made at about f22: it is fine and the light sources--street lights in particular--take on the shape of your lens diaphram at the small f-stop. Tiny camera movement at, for instance, 1/30th sec. at f2.8 will show light sources as a slight "tracing" of the camera movement. This is more noticable at the edges than in the center because they actually "move" further, causing the slight oval shape. Make a very large blow up and then examine other "tiny" points about 1/10th the size of these light bulbs, using an 8x or 10x glass. If "pinpoints" look "oval" the problem is camera movement.

In reply to those who questioned whether $575 was a good buy, I'd ask if you checked ebay and looked at the photos of this Rollei. It was in Mint- condition from appearances. I know too well the pitfalls of buying Rolleis on the web and finding they needed mechanical repair--I've been "taken" twice--but I also got a couple of GREAT cameras at less than market value. (I'm the guy who owns 8 Rollei's and doesn't use any of them enough as I spend too much time with the 'blads.) Price, value, and final cost are often more "perception" than one can quantify. Looking at the pix on ebay, I almost owned NINE Rollei's, but I really "need" a 28mm f2 Summicron for the Leica instead. (At least that's what I'm trying to explain to my wife.)

Within the last 10 days somebody was looking for a reasonably priced

Rolleiflex with a working meter. Well, I was looking for a hood and

spotted an excellent-looking E-2 w/working meter (in a leather case

which is a good sign it has been protected) on ebay for a BuyItNow

price of $575 w/3.5 Xenotar (my favorite lens.)

 

[i have no interest in this sale whatsoever and do not even know the

seller. I'm just trying to alert the guy--I think he was a student--

who was looking for a good medium format camera.]

Well, by my count (and I was never too good at math) there seems to be at least 27 different people who have responded positively to the idea of a "folding camera" section. I also support the suggestion of including "folding press cameras" in the section since most have a rangefinder, they fold, and many are used in Medium Format with roll film backs. Where do we go from here???

Hi,

Can anyone explain to me the differnence between a "black paint" or

a "black enamel" or "black chrome" Leica M7? Are the black versions

even offered in these three alternatives??

 

If there is more than one black M7 model, is one more expensive or

desirable than another? I have been offered a "black paint" M7 used

very little and, while I can find references on the web to the three

descriptions mentined--and I used to own a Black Chrome M5 years ago--

I can find no definitive answer to whether or not everybody is

talking about the same camera.

 

How many different black M7s are made? T

he Leica USA website is useless; it only refers to "black" period.

Thanks for your help, folks. --Pete J.