charles_daniels

"S2 is not a D80 body, sound like you do not understand those two camera features, especially their flash systems. "

 

Ah, I'm reminded again why I rarely turn to photo.net for wisdom or advice anymore; first out of the gate is an unhelpful response to a question I *didn't* ask, combined with a quick shot of condescension. Wonderful.

 

You're quite right, the Fuji S2 is built on a Nikon *N80* body, not a *D80*. Please forgive the typo.

 

I understand my flash "systems" enough to be able to grasp the fact that they've been obsoleted by the manufacturer in order to make more money selling more flashes. I prefer not to play along if I can help it. It looks like I can no longer help it.

 

I generally use my camera in 'M' mode and use a flash-meter where possible. It's not always possible, and then it would be nice to reliably be able to use the thing in some level of automatic mode and have it actually go -off- when I press the shutter button. I personally don't give a rat's backside as to whether this is D-TTL, i-TTL or XYZ-TTL as long as it fires and I can make adjustments based on the results.

 

In any event, the =actual question= that I asked was if anyone here (or anywhere else) knew if there was an existing Quantum battery module that would allow the Sunpak PZ42X to be used in combination with a Quantum 1+ battery. Quantum's compatibility list does not appear to be up to date and they're the ones I probably should be badgering (I've tried) but I hoped there might be someone here who had found their way to the answer already.

 

'Apparently not' appears to be the answer to the above.

 

Thanks for responding, I guess.

I bought a Nikon D300 a couple months ago, and discovered that my Sunpak PZ5000 flash unit, which had been a real

PJ work-horse for me on my old Fuji S2 (Nikon D80 body) no longer works as it should on the D300 and apparently

is not compatible with it.<br><br>

 

It looks as though my new option, (unless I want to shell out multiple hundreds for an SB-xxx, and I -don't-, so

don't go there please) is the newer Sunpak PZ42X hot shoe flash. The thing I'm anxious to find out is this: in

looking at the <a

href="http://www.rainydaymagazine.com/RDM2008/RainyDayPhotography/Nikon/Accessories/Flash/Sunpak/BatteryCompartmentOpenBig.jpg">battery

compartment configuration,</a> it looks rather different from that of the PZ5000. I have three Quantum 1+

batteries that I use for power to do event photography and of course I want to continue to use them.

<br><br>

Quantum instruments website compatibility chart does *not* list the PZ42X in their module compatibility chart as

far as I can tell, but I suspect there's a good possibility that a compatible module exists, they just haven't

listed it yet as the PZ42X appears to be a relatively new model.

<br><br>

Are there any early adopters/pioneers out there who own a PZ42X and use Quantum batteries? Anyone know if there

is an existing module that works with it? I'm eager to find out before the Labor Day holiday if possible.

<br><br>

Thank you in advance for any wisdom or experience you can share in my direction!

I don't see Lumedyne batteries as being a 'ripoff' either. All of the secondary power supplies that seem to be worth having tend not to be cheap. That being said, if you find a used lumedyne or quantum battery going for really cheap, assume it's near the end of its lifecycle and factor in the cost of 're-celling' it. I haven't had a chance to use him yet myself, but I've heard good things about www.dasaga.com, and his quotes for re-celling batteries seem reasonable.

Well, I would not claim to be an expert here. I was in the local "pro" shop today (Glazers) though, and the clerk behind the counter was discussing Portra 160 with a customer and advising him to shoot it at 100. She said it really was more of a 100 film and negs would tend to come out a little on the 'thin' side if you notched it up to 160. She said she didn't know why they decided to call it a 160 film and even the local Kodak rep recommended shooting it at 100 ISO.

 

I had to concur, as I had just gotten my first roll of 120 format portra back from the printer, which I shot at 100 ISO, and it turned out very well. Definitely not overexposed. For what it's worth.

OK, naturally just a short while after I posted and made my ignorance

public, I found the solution by myself.

 

<p>

 

If anyone's interested, the little black tab underneath the shutter

release button can be depressed, and the shutter release collar turned

all the way to the left (holding the camera in shooting position) to

the second and slightly lighter orange dot. I'm guessing that this is

the release that allows multiple exposures? Whatever, I'm sure it's

in the manual... from this position I suddenly found that I could now

push the cocking lever down and the mirror and lens shutter would both

now set themselves. And with the lens shutter now cocked, I could

turn the bayonet ring all the way and release the lens from the body.

 

<p>

 

Hooray!

 

<p>

 

We now return you to your regularly scheduled forum. <Slinks off,

embarrassed...>

Jeez, I hate being an object lesson in the matter of remembering to

Read The F&(*$#**ing Manual, but here I am, I'm stuck and I'm hoping

that there's a simple, if not obvious solution to my dilemma. I know

I'm not the first person to experience this problem, because the Fine

Manual does seem to indicate this problem exists, it just doesn't

bother to mention a solution.

 

<p>

 

My Story: I got a good deal on a "NIB" used RZ67. The thing is

flawless. This is my FIRST EVER medium format camera. It arrived

today with body, 110 lens and 120 back. No owners manual for the

body (will be ordering from Mamiya soonest) but a manual for the lens.

 

<p>

 

I was excited about opening the package of components and of course I

HAD to put it together right away. The back was easy, the lens LOOKED

easy... hey just like a 35 mm lens, line up the marks, insert and

twist. Oh, no twist, just turn the bayonet ring, OK, still a piece of

cake.

 

<p>

 

Now how about taking it off? Hmm...bayonet ring turns, but won't go

back all the way, lens won't budge. Look at the manual for the lens

which seems to indicate that I did it right, except there's a few

preliminary steps there that I didn't notice. Set the mirror? Cock

the shutter? Oh yeah, the lens has a shutter doesn't it?

 

<p>

 

Then I get to the paragraph that says thus:

 

<p>

 

"If you try to rotate the bayonet ring counterclockwise without first

depressing the Cocking lever of the camera body, the movement of the

ring will be interrupted making it impossible to remove the lens."

 

<p>

 

 

Uh oh.

 

<p>

 

What does "impossible" mean in Mamiya speak? Do I need to get out the

hacksaw now? Is it this easy to mung things up on the RZ to the point

where I need to take it to a shop just to get the lens off? I didn't

force anything, but I cannot get the cocking lever to move, I cannot

get the lens to pull out of the body, and I cannot get the bayonet

ring to turn all the way to index point or all the way away from the

index point.

 

<p>

 

Has anybody else had to deal with this? Does anybody have knowledge,

advice or wisdom to share in solving this problem?

 

<p>

 

Does anybody want to point, snicker, shake their head and pretend like

they've never made a dumb mistake in their lives? Go ahead, I'm a

good sport, just don't let me catch you flaunting your ignorance in

public or I'll point and snicker right back.

 

<p>

 

Hopefully awaiting some useful advice...

 

<p>

 

Charlie