colin_miller3

<i>The 28-135 IS is real tempting, but I was hoping I wouldn't have

to get a wide lens later. When would I need a lens wider than 24mm?

</i><p>I thought a 28mm would be wide enough for me also. I learned

that I was wrong. Now, 24mm is sometimes not enough.<p>

<i>I understand prime lenes produce better pictures than any zoom

(even L series) by a wide margin, does that apply to Tameron's

telephotos and teleconverters as well?</i><p>The Canon L sereis

lenses are not beaten by a wide margin by primes as you state. They

are very nearly the same with the zooms only trailing a bit, but the

convenience of having only 3 "L" lenses (17-35, 28-70, 70-200) to

carry instead of the 14mm L, the 20m EF, 24mm EF, 35mm L, 50mm USM,

85mm USM, 100mm USM, 135mm USM (maybe) and a 200 USM greatly

outweighs any minimal loss in quality. Okay, I may have exaggerated

to prove a point but you see what I'm saying? I can't comment on

Tamron's optical quality.

I think a good lens for your wife would be the 28-105 f/3.5~4.5 or

the 24-85 f/3.5~4.5. Depending on your photo needs. I wish I had

purchased the wider zoom. If you really want to spend some money go

for any of the L series zooms. I call them #1, #2, and #3. 17-35, 28-

70 and 70-200. Best $3600 USD you'll ever spend.... ;)<p>Look at what

you have now for your T90 and go with that. A 50mm f/1.8, a 24mm and

maybe a 85 or 100 portrait lens. I really don't know what you like to

shoot, but those choices are pretty general.<p>The EOS 5 is really

the oldest body Canon has as far as AF is concerned. You might be

disappointed with the performance compared to a EOS 30 which has the

newest AF sensors. Do you really need a spot meter like the 5 has but

the 30 doesn't? The Rebel 2000 is a really light, and full functioned

camera for a beginner such as your wife. Be sure and get the vertical

grips for whatever cameras you buy. You won't regret it. Better

battery options and easier to hold in the vertical position.<P> I

can't recommend retailers over there, but someone else might.

If you mean a zoom lens in the 28-80mm range with horribly slow

optics, then yes, avoid it like the plague. If you mean a standard

lens which is a 50mm f/1.8, then run, don't walk to get that lens. It

is one of the sharpest, lowest cost lenses available. Very light

(under .25 Kg). It's all plastic including the mounting area, but not

the glass of course, but you don't need durability when the price is

$80 USD. I've had mine for over 2 years with a Canon hood attached

and no problems ever. You will learn so much being forced to frame

and compose without the help of a ring on your lens. You have

to "zoom" with your feet!! Additionally, for many years the 50mm

f/1.8 was regarded as the lens for beginners. It closely matches what

your eyes see and again, is very inexpensive to build. Recently, with

the popularity of p&s cameras, people who want to buy SLR cameras

also demanded a zoom lens. No matter how horrible it is. Sad, no?

<p>The 50 is a great camera, but is no longer in production. That

might throw a wrinkle in your plans, but it's something you should

know. I have an Elan IIe (50e) and have had it for over 2 years. I

was a little upset they stopped the Elan (50) series for the Elan 7

(30), but it's not my choice.

The EX series flashes are all designed to be used with the A-series

bodies. EX is the newest Canon has, whereas the EZ series are for the

older A-TTL camera bodies. The 420EX adds wireless E-TTL

<b>receiving</b> capability and just a bit more power. 38 - 42 meters

with 100 ASA film and a 50mm f/1.4 lens. The first 2 numbers of a

Canon flash is it's maximum range in meters.<p> What do you need the

flash for? Since you have an Elan IIe, you don't need the onboard FEC

that the 550EX has. Do you need manual output that the 550 offers?

You can't use wireless E-TTL without an ST-E2 transmitter or a 550EX

and another 550EX or a 420EX to receive. Tell us what you need or

want to do.<P>The 550 is a little less than double in cost compared

to the 420. I love mine. I also love my 380EX. Each has it's own use.

Although I have never purchased used gear from B&H, I wouldn't be

concerned about B&H's used equipment. They have too much at stake to

sell crappy gear.<p>As far as the warranty is concerned, find out

what it covers <b>exactly</b>. Cleanings, lube, whatever. It sounds

like a sweet deal though. $20.00 for peace of mind is great; as long

as they cover what could go wrong. If their list of covered problems

is very short, I wouldn't spend the money.<p> Be sure and test it

thourougly at all aperatures with a known accurate camera using a

handheld light meter (for even exposure) and Provia F against a brick

wall in even light. This will show any problems the lens has. Ask for

your slides unmounted as this will make it easier to look at each

one.<P> Beter hurry or I'll buy that lens out from under you..... ;)

<p><i>just kidding</i>

Something else to consider. The 200 f/2.8 range when shooting with a

prime 200mm is a specialized tool I would leave to something with

macro capability (300 f/4 L IS) or with amazing DOF performance (200

f/1.8L). The constant aperture zooms are built to rival the prime

lenses. Or else everyone wouldn't shoot with them. Weddings and other

events are a perfect place for the #3 zoom. Plus the #1 and #2!!!!

But I can't buy all 3 at once. I don't think you could see a

difference between the #3 zoom and the rpime 200mm. Plus, you really

can't beat having that second ring on the lens. It's on my 3 about

70% of the time. My Elan IIe holds the other 3 primes I use for

weddings. ONE AT A TIME!!!!! Don't forget something in the 24mm range

for big groups. <p>BTW, why did you choose the 100 f/2 over the 85

f/1.8? Just curious.

<i>Follow-up question: Is the flash exposure linked to whatever

focusing point I am using, or is it tied to the center (I think it is

linked, but someone please confirm this for me)? </i>CF 13-0 is for

using only the center AF point as spot meter. The CF you want is CF

13-1. ECF or manual selection. But you are limited to the 11

elliptical AF points.

The biggest advantage to the Canon line of battery packs (BP-

whatever) is the use of other batteries besides the CR5 or 2CR5. I

have a BP-50 for my Elan IIE and I use rechargeable NiMH AA's. I have

saved so much money in batteries. I also have 16 1600Mah AA NiMH for

my EOS 3 and PB-E1. Very economical.<p>Also, the BP-200 utilizes a

shutter release in the vertical shooting position. <p> <a

href="http://www02.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?

FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___170448___CABP200___REG___SID

=E6D3EBE9200"> B&H product listing</a><p><a

href="http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?

ViewItem&item=1238327627"> eBay has one too.</a><p>

Any 508 users out there have this trouble? I was using my meter today in non corded mode and my Lumedyne 200 w/s pack and the meter did not pick up the light. It was about 15 feet away at the 200 w/s seting shot into a 45" umbrella. At 10 feet, I got a reading of f/8. So at 20 feet it should have f/5.6 or f/4, right? That's beside the point, just testing you? Why didn't it pick up the light? I was triggering the flash both at the flash and via a Quantum radio slave. The same problem occured last week, but from about 30 feet.

Lenses with the FTM ability enable the user to touch up focus after

auto focus has been achieved. Lenses without this feature will damage

the AF gears if you attempt to focus the lens while in AF mode. Check

out <a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/"> Canon's website</a> for an

in depth comparison.<p> I'm not familiar with the bar code program,

sorry.

Shutter speeds faster than 1/125th are useful for shooting with

larger (numerically small) apertures. f/2, f/1.4, f/1.0. The larger

the aperture, the faster the shutter speed must be to prevent too

much light from hitting the film. Conversely, the smaller the

aperture (larger numerically), the longer your shutter speed has to

be to properly expose the film.<p>In regards to FP flash, it's the

same principle. If you desire less depth of field that a "fast" lens

offers, and are shooting outside, you need FP flash mode to increase

the shutter speed. In the old days, most cameras only did flash sync

at 1/60 or slower. If you were shooting 100 ASA and were in direct

sunlight, your aperture would have to be f/22 to achieve proper

exposure. Few flashes had enough power to have any kind of reach at

f/22. Now with FP flash, you can use 100 ASA, and shoot at f/4 in

full sunlight and your shutter speed will only go to 1/1000th. FP

mode is great for shooting in daylight conditions. Your depth of

field is now controllable. Plus your flash does not have to fire at

full power every time. f/4 is easy for the flash to do.

I misread the question Re: turning the lens to 28mm. You may have

some dirt in the focus ring or any number of problems. Find a Canon

repair center near your city, and get a repair estimate.

Not only do journalists use external battery packs, but so do wedding

photographers and in general, anyone who doesn't want regular

batteries to fail when shooting. imagine a battery that would pay for

itself (by not having to buy AA batteries) in about 2 years. Or less

if you shoot flash a lot. Also, they enable a faster recycle time for

any situation. As short as .5 seconds or as long as about 2.5 for a

full power burst.<p>FP mode is "Focal Plane" mode. It is a system

where the maximum sync speed is increased by the flash emitting

several bursts of light to match vertical travel of the camera's

shutter. For more info click <a

href="http://bobatkins.photo.net/info/faq30/faq30.htm"> here </a> and

head for the flash FAQ. The info is invaluable.<p>You can't turn the

zoom ring beyond 28mm because that is it's limit!<p>On this forum,

you would find it difficult to get a response from anyone

recommending a 28-200 lens by any manufacturer. We really don't like

them. They are almost always of inferior build quality and inferior

optics. Get 2 zoom lenses to cover that range. A 28-105 and a 100-

300. Plus you'll have the other 100mm.

It depends on what features you need/want. The 3 has E-TTL where the

1N does not. The 1N is capable of 6 fps and the 3 can hit 7 fps with

the PB-E2 booster and NiMH pack from Canon. Spendy. 6 fps with AA

alkalines.<p>Open two new browser windows and look at the <a

href="http://www.usa.canon.com/camcambin/cameras/35mm/slr/eos1n.html">

EOS 1N</a> and the <a

href="http://www.usa.canon.com/camcambin/cameras/35mm/slr/eos3.html">

EOS 3</a> for yourself. They both have their respective places in

35mm photography or Canon wouldn't offer them, no?<p>btw, the 1NRS

can hit 10 fps, but it is a monster, weighing in at over 3 lbs. No

lens....<p>Tell us more about your needs for one of these cameras.

Weddings? Pro sports? Shooting your kids? Portraits? Commercial?

Fashion? Newspaper PJ? Self protection from muggers? ;)<p> Would the

7e be enough camera for your at only about $520? Remember, it's not

the camera that takes the photo, it's you and that piece of glass out

in front of the camera. The 7e is actually a bit faster in some

respects than the pro camera EOS 3. And newer. Yes it's true. ECF

reaction time for one. Don't hold me to it, but I think the 7e is

twice as fast. Not saying the 3 is a slouch, but the 7e will react in

60ms. The EOS 3 is slower.

I second the comment about those lenses being inferior. The lenses

that camera makers put into the "packages" are never very high

quality. The 24-85 and the 28-105 are really good for the money. They

are about $200 USD for the 28-105 and about $300 for the other. If

you really need a longer lens (over 100mm), the 100-300 f/4.5~5.6 is

a better bet. Really think about getting the 50 f/1.8 for low light

work and really sharp images!!<p> <a

href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com"> B&H</a> is really regarded as

having the best prices and service (most of the time) around. It

seems as though the prices for cameras have been dropping over the

last year or so. Interesting.

<b><i>Jim Strutz wrote: So there you have it, a thoroughly biased

Canon over Nikon opinion. </i></b><p>I second every word of it, too.

To expand a bit on Jim's old Nikon lens owner theory: You have to own

them to fully utilize Nikon's line of thinking regarding their really

nice and really sharp (that's from a *CANON 'TIL I DIE* guy) old

Nikkors on the newer AF bodies. But they <i>are</i> old and if you

don't have any, what's the point? I went through the same dilemma. I

didn't have any old Nikkors, so why buy Nikon AF bodies for MF lenses

I didn't have? I bought Canon...<p> The 7e is wonderful, but B&H is

sold out at the moment. The EOS3 has come down over $850 since

release. Now only $805 after $75 rebate. Interested? :)

<i><b>Geoff wrote: I always wait for the capacity charge light to

come on and check for the proper exposure light afterward.

</i></b><p>I always got a green "you did a good job!!!" light too. I

still was always using -1.5 FEC and focusing on whatever I wanted to.

Even white stuff. I trust the confirmation light about as far as I

can throw it. Wait, bad example. :) I don't trust the light. That's

better.<p>I'm not sure we can eliminate this problem. I've had much

better luck using FEL and appropriate FEC or focusing on caucasion

faces with 0 FEC. This whole thing sure makes good manual flash seem

nice, eh?<p>Seriously, I'm curious why they can't or won't make a

flash system based on distance. Come on, the distance info is already

there, right? How hard would it be to transfer it to a flash unit.

That would be best in my opinion. Then we could use true fill. Camera

set @ f/8; distance requires 1/4 output, operator desiers -1 stop;

flash emits 1/8 power. Jeez, am I oversimplifying it?

I would stay away from the A2e. It is really old technology whereas

the 7e is brand new. Even newer and faster in some ways than the pro

body EOS-3. Unless you really want an A2e. They are dirt cheap now

that the 7 is out.<p>AE lock is auto exposure lock. When you activate

the button, the meter locks on whichever focus point it is pointed

at. You use it when you find something that is white in the

viewfinder and then lock AE lock it, then dial in +2 exposure

compensation. That would give you near perfect exposure.<p>FE lock is

the flash equivalent of AE lock. Same thing but for flash.<p>EV is

Ellis Vener. Sorry. Couldn't resist. Hopefully someone gets that.

It's and old joke from photo.net. Seriously, EV is a number that is

another way of saying 1/15th and f/1.8. Or 1/500th and f/5.6. Those

would be two different EV numbers, btw. It also depends on film

speed. The lower the number, the darker the scene you're metering. If

you look at a 7e manual, it should have an EV table in there. You can

see what EV means easier than I can explain it. How it relates to AF

performance is that the more sensitive the AF system, it will

properly focus in a low EV situation. It's also dependant on fast

lenses. f/2.8 and faster. I'm pretty sure the AF EV ratings are with

a f/1.4 lens.

I'll try to come up with an answer for you.<p>

<ul>

<li>If you use a hood, it may have become rotated.

<li>You may be metering a white subject without +1.5 or +2 FEC.

<li>Your flash may not be zooming correctly and is stuck on a setting

more telephotoish than the lens you're using. Like the flash is stuck

at 50mm while your lens is at 35mm.

<li>I think that the switch set to HSS and shooting below 1/125th

would create a multiple flash effect across the image. This is

because of the output of the 550EX in HSS mode. In HSS mode, the

flash has to simulate a strobe effect to follow the pattern of the

vertical travel focal plane shutter blades.

<li>Try switching to a slower film or add a ND filter to get out of

HSS. Maybe the HSS is the problem. Then shoot in M mode.

<li>Also shoot a roll of slide film and make that the determianting

factor of camera equipment trouble. Maybe the mini lab's machine is

messed up. A roll of slide will show you exactly what your camera and

flash are doing.

<li>I'm pretty sure you can use Program mode along with HSS. I mean

it's P mode, but it's on the other side of the lock setting from the

idiot modes. You can;t do anything creative over there.

<li>I leave my HSS switch set to "on" when I'm going back and forth

betweeen light and not so light. I've never had a funny looking

print. I shoot in Manual mode and adjust my shutter speed by using a

handheld light meter in outdoor conditions, though.

</ul><p>Let us know what lens you're using and if you use a hood.

In my opinion, you should make the 550EX the "wired" flash, and the

Photogenic the "synced" flash. Does that make sense? The monolight

already has a slave built in (it should anyway) so why try to make

another (550EX) one fire that doesn't have one? I would use a hot

shoe adapter that has a 1/4-20 tripod socket on the bottom for

mounting the 550EX. Make sure you find one that has a pc cord on it.

Then run a pc cord from the adapter attached to your flash back the

camera. Use you Wein HS slave on the Photogenic if it needs it. Fire

the 550EX with the camera and make the monloight the slave.

Regardless of which one is the main or fill. I have a 550EX that I do

the same thing with. It's a little difficult to slave the Canon

flashes without the Ikelite lite link. I went the extra step and I

use the ST-E2 to fire the 550EX which will fire any other flashes

that I have slaves on. Cordless!! :) Or I use the cord from my Elan

IIe and safe sync to the hot shoe adapter.

Don't think you'll have it that easy, Jim! I was waiting for you (or

someone else) to buy one and start the cycle too.<P> I definitely

realize how much less the old version will command on eBay or at KEH

after the IS version comes out. On eBay right now, there's one at

$940 with 6 days to go. Come on, 20% off gray market for a used item?

That's ridiculous. I got my 40mm Bronica PE lens for 30% off in LN-

condition with a hood! HA!!

When is Canon going to release this? We all know that it's the next logical step for them. How many of these do you think they would sell? At just about any price, too. Frankly, I'm getting tired of waiting. Although with my luck, the week I order one, they'll release the IS model.....

I'm looking to save a bit of cash by getting some used stuff. I know to avoid Quantum batteries and other batteries too. You never know how someone treated them. I bought a Pelican case last year, used. That's a good example of an okay thing to buy used. Now is the tough part. Would anyone recommend (or not recommend) buying a Quantum Q-Flash or a Lumedyne system used?

I want to use my 550EX in manual mode with my Bronica. I am concerned about shutter speeds above 1/60. i.e. 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. Would the leaf shutter system be compatible with my flash at the higher shutter speeds? I tried and tried all night, but I couldn't wrap my mind around this problem. Specifically, what does the flash duration have to do with shutter speed of a leaf shutter lens?

Go to <a href="http://bobatkins.photo.net/info/faq30/flashfaq.htm">

this site </a> and scroll down a couple of pages to get some info on

*TL modes. <P>IMO, you should get the newer 380EX or 420EX because

you may want to upgrade your body one day and a TTL only flash will

be useless on an E-TTL capable body. The 420EX adds wireless

capabilities. Nearly the same power and features.