Jump to content

william_jones2

Members
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Posts posted by william_jones2

  1. I am thinking about purchasing a 4x5/5x7 Wooden CANHAM large format camera. I am trying to gather information (good and bad) from anyone who has used this camera. I would like to know how it handles, is it sturdy, is it easy to open and close, craftsmanship, durability etc. Thank you.
  2. Reading your summary of your experience reminds me of my own. Large

    format is very thrilling and satisfying as are all of my other

    formats. I have found that each format fills a specific need in my

    photographic life. I shoot from 35mm through 8x10 and I enjoy all of

    them. I have been shooting for approximately 7 years now and I still

    check and recheck my behaviors and actions related to exposing a

    large format negative. I have found that when I neglect my normal

    sequence of actions...I make a mistake which sometimes causes me to

    loose what I thought would be a wonder large format image. In othe

    words, it is OK to check your camera and lens several time before

    removing the dark slide and exposing the negative. I started with

    base tilts. If you can locate a camera with axis tilts life will

    become a little bit easier.

     

    <p>

     

    Try to shape your sight to see what each of your lens are capable of

    seeing (their angle of view). this will help you with composition.

    It also take time and familiarity with your equipment to be able to

    do this. Never be afraid to explore and experiment with your large

    format camera. Many unconventional actions yeild very beautiful

    results. Large format is one of the artistic avenues of patience,

    precision and deliberate action. Wish you much luck and success on

    your photographic journey.

     

    <p>

     

    check out this website www.dreamwater.com/art/wrjphoto. I think may

    contain some helpful information.

     

    <p>

     

    Again, good luck :)

  3. Calumet Photographic carries a new 5x7 enlarger by Omega with a

    Dichro head. If I remember correctly the price is around $2500-

    3000. The chasis seem to be the same as the one on the D-6

    enlarger. it is not listed on their website, but I do hava catelogue

    that contain the enlarger. I will forward the calumet product number

    to you in a few days.

     

    <p>

     

    www.calumetphoto.com

     

    <p>

     

    good luck

  4. I have used TMX with D-76, XTOL, HC110, and PYRO. I ran my initial film test using PYRO (really dangerous chemical with must be handled with extreme care). I did not know at that time that the yellowish green stain would cause me a small problem when using a Dichro enlarging light source. What problem you might ask. Variable contrast paper has two layers (hard and soft). The yellowish green tone of a PYRO negative acts like a low contrast #0 or #1 filter. This must be overcome by dialing in additional magenta to achieve a particular contrast (example: a non-pyro negative might only require a magenta setting of 30. That same negative developed in pyro could possibly require 60 units of magenta to achieve the same print contrast). Needless to speak of the Health concerns related with pyro.

     

    <p>

     

    The D-76 and XTOL for me did not give the latitude I needed with respect to dilutions (for N plus and N minus development) while trying to maintain a constant development time.

     

    <p>

     

    I have since settled on HC110 and TMX and TMY. HC110 is sold in concentrated form which must be diluted to make a stock solution. I make all of my dilutions from stock solution. It has a wide dilution latitude. My objective was to find a particular development time and keep that particular time throughout the N-4 to N+4 Zone Scale System. HC110 will allow you to do just that. I have used it as strong as 1:2 for N plus development and as weak as 1:20 for N minus development. In other words, I have altered developer dilution to achieve a constant development time

     

    <p>

     

    My standard dilution for a normal negative in my corner of the world is:

    TMX ASA 50 - HC110 diluted 1:10 from stock solution, developed for Seven minutes at 74 degrees (my tap water in the summer time is between 73-76 degrees) in Paterson 8x10 trays. Total solution amount is 550mL (Never use less than this amount in an 8x10 tray because it will not give adequate coverage of a 4x5 negative) (Factors to consider that may alter the above information slightly; water pH, Lens contrast, stability of electrical current etc.,)

     

    <p>

     

    My tests were conducted using a TEN ZONE test target constructed of cardboard and .3, .6 and .9 neutral density material. This was placed over a vertical light table and read with a 1 degree spot meter. The film was exposed, developed, then read by a densitometer and plotted. Here is the trick, once you have established what appear to be correct densities under your controlled conditions, SHOOT WITH THE SAME DATA IN THE REAL WORLD. IT WILL ULTIMALEY CAUSE YOU TO ALTER YOUR DEVELOPMENT TIME OR DILUTION.

     

    <p>

     

    HC110 is relatively inexpensive when compared to the cost of TMAX developer and the number of negatives a particular amount will develop. I do not like to stand over my darkroom sink for long periods of time trying to achieve an N+2 or N+3. The activity level of this developer is such that I can have short development times for all N Plus situations. You must treat HC110 with great respect. If you do not, you will end up with bulletproof negatives that are either difficult to print or non-printable.

     

    <p>

     

    I wear a rubber glove on the hand that will be in contact with the developer (the 1:10 dilution can cause skin irritation, just think what 1:2 will do, but still slightly more safe than pyro relatively speaking)

     

    <p>

     

    My Recommendation. Test your desired printing paper first to establish its Contrast Index or Contrast Range (actually you are testing the contrast of your light source and lens with respect to the paper of choice) and then match your film response to match that of the paper. It makes life very easy when trying to print.

     

    <p>

     

    Also take notice of the NEW RECIPROCITY LAWS with respect to TMX. I do not add any additional time for meter readings over ONE SECOND. I expose the film exactly as the meter reads it (this system works for me, try it )

     

    Overall, HC110 is a very good developer. If you like the look of a printed HC110 negative, then hopefully the above information should motivate you to use it. Good Luck!!

×
×
  • Create New...