daniel_luu_van_lang

Hi Joe,

I use Bergger BPFB 18 ortho film in my homemade 12x16 camera, I made some sensitometry tests and here are the results:

jobo CPA2 processor, presoaking 3 min, temp 25 C, rotation speed 4.

film rated at 9 iso, Rodinal 1+100, 6 min processing, Dmax 1.7.

film rated at 7 iso, rodinal 1+100, 3 min processing, Dmax 1,3.

film rated at 12 iso, Rodinal 1+25, 6 min processing, Dmax 2,7 futher tests show me that basefilm +fog density increases a lot while the contrast does not change anymore.

Hope this could help,

regards

Hi Ted,

Last year I have built a home made ULF camera with the huge bellows of a process camera. You can have a look on Patrick Jan Van Hove web site. I shoot 12x16 B&W negs ( only three shots in one year!)

regards,

Hello Ken,

I bought a Variant LIII 2 years ago and it is still in new condition.

Rigidity is pretty good at long extension, my longest lens is a 360/5.6 Rodenstock Sironar( not really a small piece of glass!). The bellows maximum extension is 485mm for the level III. Axial tilt and vertical shift(rise/fall) are controlled by the same mechanism and it's the only drawback I could find on this great camera. You can have the other specifications on their web site: www.gandolficorfield.co.uk

There is a scale on the front standart for the horizontal shift(L/R),

it's just a tape and it can rub against the rear standart when the camera is fold, so it could slide along.

I never used the Ebony but it seems much more lighter! Anyway, I am very happy with mine and will not change until my back will say Stop!

I find the gandolfi Variant III to be the only field camera to be as versatile as a view camera.

So jump to the Gandolfi!!

Best regards

Hello Jochen,

I have email you a scan of the original manual.

Hope this can help.

Regards.

Hello,

I use a PHILIPS bulb type PF 607 E/51, 250Watts, 230V as I live in France but you can find what you are looking for on this website:

http://www.bulbman.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/printer_main.html?L+scstore+wmdh0236+1044136846

250 watts is almost too powerfull for me, I stop down to f11 or f16 and my exposure time is around 10 sec for a 11X14 enlargement.

Hope this can help you.

Best regards.

Hello Enrico,

Check this website: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Times/times

Regards

Hi,

If you live in France, just see with Mr Mouton, TAOS photographic.

Regards.

Hi all,

Anybody knows where I could purchase spare parts for an old Thornton

Pickard shutter? I need new cloth to replace the old one which is

torn. Thank you very much for your help.

Regards

Hi all,

Did anybody already use the orthochromatic film Bergger BPFB-18 in

the field? I use this film in my darkroom for alternative process but

I wonder if I could load it in a holder and shoot with it. According

to what I've read in Ansel's "Basic photo ", it's possible but what

about the sensitivity? Help!

Hi all,

I would like to know if any 8x10 film holder fits any 8x10 camera, is

it standardized like 4x5 format? Can I use a fidelity holder with an

old Agfa Ansco, Kodak 2D, or must I use an old wooden film holder

instead? Would my film be at the same location as the ground glass?

Thank's for your contribution.

Best regards.

I have just something to add to my previous post. Brian, you are

living in Florida and I think almost everybody in the US has Air

conditionned so that humidity and storage are not problems. In Africa

or south east Asia, you should keep those problems in mind. Aside

that detail, I completely agree with all the posters.

Best regards

Hello,

In The 70s, I was living in Ivory Coast(for ten years), I was too

young to shoot in LF, but I remember humidity was incredible. I think

the wood of your camera should not be damaged but my concern is about

the bellows. Moisture can appear in less than one month if you store

it in a cupboard. In your case, I would think Teak, humidity is over

90% in the air, depending of the country. Lenses could also be

damaged with fungus, if storage is too long! I hope this could help

you.

Regards

Hi,

I have a 240G-Claron in barrel, I think it's a process lens and I've

not used it yet since I haven't any shutter. Answering a previous

post, many users said it could directly fit in a copal 1 shutter.

Obviously, front and rear parts seem to have the right threads to be

screwed in the shutter, my concern is: Is it working according to the

opticals rules? since space between front and rear lens would

increase.Anybody has an answer to that theorical question?

Thank you

Thank you for your contribution, as usual, this forum is very helpful

for any concern one may have!

Regards.

Hi All,

For quite a long time, I was looking for a brown toner that could provide the same tone as very olds albumen prints, unsuccessfully!

Yesterday, I tried Tea...and it works great! The border is toned too, so the print looks like an old one (FB paper, of course).

Aesthetic is great, but what's about longevity? does the tea attack the image? anybody has an experience? any feedback would be great!!

Regards

Hi all,

Does anybody know which size of Packard shutter is needed for a G-Claron 240/f9? Is it the best choice? I think get it mounted on a modern shutter would be very expensive.Thank's for your helpfull contribution!!

Hi Bruce,

I agree with Dean and James, you must keep your sheets in your carry

on bag, since carry-on X-rays machines will not fog them(<5 runs,

according to Kodak recommendation)( and probably <1600 iso).For

checked bags, most of internationals airports are now fitted up with

InVision Technologies CTX5000 & CTX5500 tomographs and L3 Scans

(rotating tube), they are very powerfull and ONE run is sufficient to

damage a film, even the slowest. I hope this can help you.

Best regards

Hi all,

Anybody knows if 11X14" and 16X20" B&W films are available in Europe?

Thank's for your help.

Hi John,

With glass negative carrier you may have Newton circles on your

prints, you can avoid that by using an anti-newton glass which is

setup above the neg. I have a Durst 138 S and it works very good,

very flat negs and no Newton circles;

I hope this 2 cents add could help you

Best regards

Daniel Luu

Hi Rob,

I'm very happy to read your post! it seems to be the difference between

a negative and digital shot! You'd probably have cancelled the second

and loose it forever, so, long life to the silver photo please!!

Hi Matt,

Your'e right, there is a couple of different models. The Quickload

model is like the readyload holder from Kodak, and Fuji has now a new

quickchange film holder which is a kind of modern Grafmatic holder with

4 or 5 sheets of film inside. I can't tell you more about it, since

I've never used it yet.

best regards.

Thank's to all of you for your posts, they are very helpfull! It

seems both increase the light for two stops. I think I'll purchase

the fresnel since it is easier to fit on the camera.

Good luck for your photos!

Hi, All

I've no more sharp eyes and my GG seems very dark, so I plan on to change it for a Bosscreen, or add a Fresnel. I'd like to have feedback from the community on the best choice. I use a Gandolfi 4X5.

Does the Bosscreen exist with "cutcorners", so that I can keep on checking the vigneting?

Thank's to all of you for your contribution to improve my knowledge!

Best regards

Hi,

You can purchase that film at Prophot shop in Paris, their website is:

http://www.prophot.com

best regards