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When Minolta came out with their autofocus models, they changed the lensmounts. The manual focus lenses (and converters) won't work with the autofocus cameras -- so the only converters you can use are the autofocus ones.

 

Take the other guys advise, and buy the lens. Tele-converters are offered as a cheaper way to extend your options when you can't afford another lens. If you can afford it, always choose a lens instead of a converter.

 

Also keep in mind the 2 stop loss in exposure with a 2x converter.

Dan - From the manual; "The self-diagnostic function detected an error. Remove battery. After 'H' disappears put the battery back in."

 

It doesn't say how to find out what the error was.

Brian - Thanks for the reply, but you've been misled. The last time I tried to post to that forum, the banned message that came up instead said until 2004. The other posting (one) you refer to, surprised me when I saw it in the Nikon forum, since it started out in the non-archived forum (where I posted an answer), and had then been moved to the Nikon forum. When I saw it there, I thought I'd been granted a reprieve, and tried to post -- and was still off till 2004. I don't know who you got that info from, or who moved the thread, but I've a good idea.

 

If you see any posting in that forum by me, previous to this date, it would have had to have been moved the same way. If there is any question as to the content of Doug or my e-mails on this matter, I'll be glad to send you the file (I saved them all). I really dought, however, that it's worth all this trouble and space. I just think you've been given a self-serving account of this by Doug.

 

You didn't say whether you'd been allowed to see my original posting which caused all this, or checked my posting history to check out my side.

 

My apologies to Edward for stealing his thread -- that wasn't my intention.

Apparently, even new moderators can do exactly what they want -- to whomever they want, with no recourse for the member involved. At least, that was my experience after getting no response from a letter to Brian, last week. Doug Thacker banned me from 'his Nikon forum' (his words) after my first post in it. His reasons were that I was being disruptive by referring someone to the Nikonians N80 forum, to get some added advice from actual N80 owners. When questioned on his motives by another member, he told him I had a history of being 'disruptive', and deserved it. I asked Brian to go to my workspace and review all my posts, but got no response.

 

In the time I've been here, I've only referred to Nikonians twice (their website is one reccommended by this very site), and kept to the subject otherwise. I did, however, by reviewing those posts, noticed several personal attacks from Doug -- and not one single response from me! I guess he was just waiting for his chance, and found it on my very first post to 'his' forum.

 

If anyone can find a pattern, or even a single instance, of abuse or disruptive behavior in my posts, maybe he would have a point. But it is just the opposite (look for yourselves).

 

Being 'not allowed' to post to that forum is obviously something I can live with, but this is addressing a bigger point -- no one else even knew about it! Even after sending two e-mails to Brian, I got no response at all. This whole thing is about a personal dislike Doug has for me, for whatever reason, and just got swept under the rug. I wouldn't even be bringing it up now, except that a lot of the guys above seem to think everyone is treated fairly (just check my posts to see my point).

 

So guys, just because you don't see any instances of unfair treatment, doesn't mean it's not there, maybe it's just under the rug.

Rainer - They will work just fine. The biggest problem is the much smaller focus rings most AF lenses have, but you can get used to that. It's also a bit unsettling to some, when they feel the slight resistance/grinding from the autofocus lens in manual mode.

Iztok - If you can't find a freebe, you can at least find cheap ones at one of the links <a href="http://www.nikonlinks.com">here</a> . I just ordered one online from Manuals2go, and it got here in 3 days for under $10.

Guys - I didn't mean to be flip with my first sentence (above). I just meant that Nikon has been taking some hits because of their efforts to stay price competitive. I have the last model of their 80-200, and though it has great optics (and I like it), it feels like the 28-80 G lens -- light.

 

I remember back when I only had Minolta manual focus equipment, and got my first tele-zoom, a 100-300. Before the first roll was finished I was hooked. Even when doing landscapes in the Pacific Northwest it was still my primary lens. I loved the stacking effects it gave. You just don't get the same look with a 200.

 

FYI - This Nikon 80-200 I have has answered the question about wear of the plastic mounts. It has a plastic mount, and although the lens is in like new condition, the locking pin slot is worn on both edges where the pin slides in and out. It still locks in tight, but the wear is pretty noticable. When using one of those (like a 'G') in the future, I think I'll manually hold the pin in until lens is in place. I know that's not relevant to the thread, but thought I'd pass it on. I just hope their materials are improved for the new ones.

Dino - Nikon doesn't put their name on junk (IMHO). You'll love the freedom a 70-300 gives you. It's my favorite zoom range. I think for a first tele-zoom, you'll be dissapointed with the 70-210. The 300 lets you reach out and touch someone. I have the 70-300 D and like it a lot. None of the Nikon lenses are made in Japan anymore, but they're still made to Nikon specs. A lot of guys are a bit unsure about the lightwieght components, but the 70-300 AF ED D is well made, and still has the metal mounts, and great optics.

 

I'd stay away from the 'G' series unless price is a problem. They have plastic mounts and no aperture ring, so you're restricted in the features available with some cameras. For several lens comparisons from different photographers go <a href="http://www.nikonlinks.com">here</a> .

It should be the same problem, but you could slide a thin piece of cardboard in to protect the contacts. Don't use plastic unless it's thin. It's sometimes a tight fit with a spacer, but the cardboard will crush fit (a little). Just be careful, because the most common damage to flashguns now is a broken foot.

 

Just a tip here -- B&H, in their used section, recently had several NIB closeout Phoenix flash units (dedicated for Nikon TTL).They have an adjustable front lens for bounce (up), and macro (down). They are a bit bulky, but with a guide number of 125, and a $29 price tag, they're a heck of a deal. I got one, and it should be perfect for studio work. Maybe they still have some.

Eric - Art's right -- don't do it. What you need is the Nikon SC-17 cord (hot shoe connections from your camera to the flash), or the SU-4 wireless shoe for the flash unit. These will mount to a stand or frame with no bad results. You didn't say how far away from the camera it would be, but the SU-4 is a nice little unit. Both choices will retain the TTL flash capabilities for the slave unit.

Keith - Check out some of the links at www.nikonlinks.com. You'll find the spec sheets, comparisons, and instruction books.

Adam - go to the top of any page here, and click on "My Workspace", then on E-mail alerts/edit.

 

Although the threads you're subcribed to aren't really listed by name -- just by Forum. That's quite irritating, when you get signed up for a thread you didn't want, and have to guess which one to dis-able.

JS - I second the motion on "<a href="http://www.rue.com">Rue</a>" and also check out Cabelas for affordable camo, gilly suits, and most everything outdoors. "<a href="http://www.cabelas.com">Cabelas</a>"

Great shot Ricardo!!

For price + convienience, especially with some of the rapid changes necessary for wildlife, I really like the Bogen Grip-Action head. You can adjust the locking and swivel tension, and it's really fast. Just grab it like you would a pistol grip -- swivel and chase and follow, then simply let go the grip, and it's locked right there -- rock solid.

Dhavel - Chuck and NK are bang on. I was heavily into Minolta manual focus, but when their autofocus came out, they changed mounts. Not being able to upgrade to autofocus and start all over with lenses, I waited for a while. During that time I came into a N8008 - MF21 databack - 35-135 AF lens, and an SB24 flash, for a total of $200. (No, they were not stolen -- just one of those deals like the Vette in the barn stories). So, being that heavy into Nikon AF, I built on that.

 

Without that leg-up, though, I probably would have gone with Minolta. I still have all the Minolta MF stuff, and break it out every now and then. (I still love that X700 + motor drive in my hands).

Dhruba - Sorry for taking so long in this reply, but I didn't notice it before. I'll answer here just in case my e-mail to you doesnt get thru.

My comments were a complete and total joke. Not meant as an insult to you at all. Sometimes we Americans forget that other cultures don't share our sense of humor. This was posted as an attempt at humor by giving a litle verbal jab at the guys, and expecting one right back from them.

 

Actually they gave you some really good advice.

 

I'm very sorry I offended you. I'll be more careful to get across my true meanings in the future.

Fred - Todd's right. No more DOF scales. You'll need to run a 'Depth of Field' search with Google, and find a good explanation of circle of confusion, and a calculator to make up a field card. Then get a long tape measure (or a rangefinder), and get out and make yourself familiar enough with distance to be able to give a close guess when you need to.

 

Some one-touch zooms (i.e. Tokina 80-200) had DOF scales, and several lenses still have a rudimentary rangefinder with their focus rings.

Paul - I'm afraid you may get the wrong idea from the above posts. No one has come out and said that with the right angle finder, you have to have your eye on it, the same as with any other normal finder. You can't see thru it at waist level. You can't do what you want with the F80.

You CAN compare your hand held meter with your in-camera meter. The in-camera meter is a reflected light meter. To get the same reading as if it were an incident meter, simply purchase an 18% grey card, and follow the directions. A good site for tutorials on hand held meters and exposure, try www.sekonic.com . Different brand, but same principles.

All your answers can be found (and downloaded) at www.sekonic.com .

Gee whiz, Rohit; you think maybe a couple of thousand dollars difference might have something to do with it?

Andrew - If you need a downloadable instruction book and other info on the F3, got to www.nikonlinks.com . Has most anything you need to know about the F3, MD4, Flash, etc.

Kurt - The main point everyone seems to be missing, is that there are really two hobbies to deal with here, and comparing them is likened to apples and oranges. One is the learning how to and the taking of photographs. The other is the buying of, fondling, and looking at photographic equipment.

 

The two are'nt necessarily related. Enjoy both to your fullest ability, and maybe sometime in the future, they'll begin to compliment one another.

What these guys aren't telling you is that the Tamron 28-300 won European lens of the year honors last year. It's an excellant lens --but not the solution to your quandrey. As you noticed, with a question so open-ended, all you get are suggestions based on everyone's DIFFERENT opinions.

 

I suggest you hold onto your money for a bit, and learn some basics on exposure and equipment techniques. A good basic photography book is essential. Also, try reading some articles on exposure.

 

A good (free) basic course can be found at www.nikonlinks.com , and following the threads to their 'Web Magazine'. It's a Nikon site, but the info is generic. All of it can be downloaded, article by article, simply using your 'save as' selection under file.