john_molloy3

<p>renato.</p>

<p>did you find a solution to this problem? i am having the same issue. i used be able to print on CS5, but now the printer setting options are striked out. its almost as though some software update some where screwed it but. but now CS3 is not working with this printer either.<br>

email me at ballyscanlon@gmail.com if you have any suggestions.</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>john</p>

hello.

 

first let me say that i am fairly well schooled in how to freeze motion in a

studio situation with strobe. 'flash duration' and all that.

 

someone has proposed to me that the 'extra mirror delay' that some of the latest

hasselblad H series firmware allow you will aid in the reduction in 'motion' in

a studio situation.

 

so lets assume for a minute that we are using broncolor at a fast flash duration

(i consider his to be 1/5000-1/7000/sec) with a model jumping.

 

i know there are a lot of variables, but is there a situation where adding a

delay between the mirror locking up and the shutter firing, that would help in

the freezing of motion, assuming we are already using fast flash duration.

 

thanking you all in advance.

 

john

hello.

 

i have a H2 body with P30+ phase back. recently i bought a secondhand H1 and i

noticed that the manual focus was off. after playing with the focusing screen

height with no success i sent it into hasselblad to get it adjusted. when it

came back i tested it again and found (again) a disparity between auto focus and

manual focus. the camera is accurate when auto focused, but when i manually

focus and shoot (i am using a tripod and mirror lock up) the ficus is off. i

sent it back to hasselblad again and it has come back and i have tested it. now

i am getting inconsistent results...........im going a little crazy now.

 

i have tested the H2 during this time and it was focusing fine in manual, as

well as auto.

 

has anyone had this problem?

i am wondering if my testing methods are adding to my inconsistent results.

 

john

having looked at some older threads there are some other questions ans observations i

have seen.

 

someone mentioned a problem with focas being off on the Ee-s screen. anyone else with

this experience?

the 'bill maxwell hi-lux screen treatment' anyone try it on the Ee-s screen? the lenses i

use are 2.8 or faster, is this treatment pointless?

 

ronald..........i am not following you regarding 'center cross'. googled it and B&H does not

mention 5D regarding the Ec-L screen. does anyone have experience with this screen?

my initial problem was with still life, so if my point of focas is not at the center and i am 5

inches form the subject, recomposing the shot after focasing on the center would probably

be out of focas, no? i need a screen that is easy to focas at all points on the screen, do i

not ?

 

sorry all, the futher i delve into this, the more questions i have.

 

john

i have been doing a lot of still life recently with my canon 5D and shoot 'tethered' and so i can see my

focasing results (or lack there of). i am having a hard time focasing, especially as the day goes on and i

get tired.

 

i started to do some research into what screens is available, there is a canon Ee-S which says makes

manual focasing easier.

 

i started to do some initial research and seee that there are beattie screens for the canon 5D also.

 

does anyone have any personal experience with the canon screen? any beattie experiece out there too, on

the 5D or canon digital in general?

 

while i am at it, the 'eyepiece extender EP-EX15 (from the 5D manual), anyone use this? what is its

purpose? advantage?

 

thank you all

 

john

hello all.

 

i am going to the caribbean for a week in february. long enough to need to be able to download my 8G's

of CF cards for my canon 5D, but not really long enough to take my laptop (dont want to have to worry

about it either).

 

there is an apple product called the 'apple ipod camera connector' ($30), see link:

 

http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/6104001/wo/

kk60J7HJB9Io37mmB762hIgDvKF/6.0.21.1.0.8.25.7.11.0.3

 

the canon 5D is not on its list of compatible cameras, but the 10D is. i called canon USA bu they were no

help. has anyone used this product with this camera?

 

and if not, does anyone have any suggestions for non-laptop downloading solutions? i am aware of the

EPSON products, but i was hoping to not have to spend that money, and honestly its not critical that i am

able to view my images while on location.

 

thank you all in advance.

 

john

hello.

 

i wanted to ask for some suggestions from people who are shooting with hotshoe flash on the canon 5d.

 

what flash configuration they like for TTL. i have a norman 400, so what i am looking for is.......

 

~something with hotshoe (smaller than the norman set up)

~that would allow use of a quantum battery for extra power/battery life

~offer TTL (hopefully)

 

 

thank you

 

john

i have a norman super charger (version 2). the fuse in the charger has blown.

 

the markings on it are T2L250V. but there is no amp/current rating on it. the

charger is from the US and i am her in ireland on holidays. can anyone tell me

what the current rating is on this fuse?

 

thank you

 

john

go to an art supply store and buy yourself a cheap ($20 or less) 20x24 frame with plexiglass.

 

cheapest way i know to get a piece for still life.

 

john

hello all.

 

just purchased a norman 400b and 200c power packs and heads on ebay. they both came with their

respective chargers (he old grey

cube, no the newer black one).

 

i have a couple of questions. first of all......

 

is there a 'pdf file' any where on the net of the instructions manuals for these things?

the 400b (i have noticed) has only one of its 2 batteries, does that explain why it will not fire the strobe?

the 200c makes a low screaching noise before finally stopping (when it is turned on), it fires the strobe

once and then tells me the battery is low.

both chargers have red lights on (after i press the red button), but only for about 5 minutes, then the light

goes off. what does that mean?

 

i am based in new york, any suggestions of where to get these serviced?

 

thank you all in advance.

 

john

thank you everyone for their input. as an update.........

 

i went ahead and downloaded the sandisk utility program 'rescuepro', $34 later and i have

'working' copy of the software program that i had 2 other copies of on their mini-CD.

 

spoke to sandisk on the phone. they are aware of the mini-CD/mac laptop incompatibility

program, but i dont think they are rushing to fix it, they couldn't care less. the person

also mentioned that i should be using a card reader (i am using a lexar) with 'esp

technology' compatibility (what the extreme III cards use). funnily enough, sandisk has 3

of them. personally, if a card reader works with the cards 1999 out of 2000 times the it is

compatible.

 

and to answer someone elses question, i DID add 'just one more' image to a card that was

already full (the first time i had corruption problems), so that might be the source of my

problem.

 

if there is one thing that this experience has thought me, its alsways to have more than 1

card with you at al times, even if you are not going to fill it up. so that you can keep

shooting if you get a corrupt card and not have to choose between reformating so you can

keep shooting, or saving the card till you can rescue it.

 

thank you all again

 

john

hello all.

 

yesterday i was shooting, recording my images as both raw files.

 

I was using a SanDisk Extreme III 2.0GB compact flashcard, the canon 5D and a lexar card reader with

firewire 400.

 

While I was shooting, I was able to review my images by viewing them on the back of the camera.

Everything was going along smoothly. It was not the first card I had filled that day, and the other ones I

had downloaded already into my mac (laptop)... like I said, everything appeared fine and dandy.

 

However, when I put this card into the reader, it said there were no images. I could deduce that the card

was not empty, but it appeared empty and could not be read. When I put it back into the camera, it also

showed-up as "no images".

 

Its not the first time this has happened with a SanDisk Extreme III 2 G card (I have two of them). It

happened on the other disc on my last shoot. Its never happened on the Sandisc Ultra II 2.0 GB card I

also have. The card itself is not completely bad, because today I put the card back in my camera, shot a

bunch of test stuff and downloaded it just fine.

 

Incidentally, when I download the cards I use a lexar usb compact flash reader. I download them, then

delete the card, empty the trash, eject the card, put it back in the camera, and format the card using

the camera.

 

I am aware that SanDisc's application "RescuePro" File Recovery Utility exists. i have 2 copies of it (i

own 2 2GB cards). but anyone who has bought this card recently knows that the copy that they give

you is on a mini-CD. i assume this is for packaging reasons. unfortunately i own a macbook pro

laptop, and if you are familiar with this computer you will know that you cannot insert a mini-CD into it.

 

i have transfered the contents of the mini-CD (using another computer) to both a memory stick and a

blank CD. neither of these attempts have worked. ultimately this programme muct have the original

CD or a disk image for it to be installed.

 

any suggestions regarding the initial card reading problem?

 

and the software installation problem?

 

thank you

 

john

thank you all for your responses. i replied earlier but it did not post.

 

as was pointed out to me by all of you, it was an f stop issue. started using F8-11 and

everything started looking better immediately. thanks again

 

john

i just recently purchased the 100mm 2.8 canon macro lens. i have been doing still life with it on a table

with strobe lights. when viewing the images on capture one i have found the sharpness to be lacking.

both up close 1:1 and further away. the images are sharp but do not hold up so well compared to my

24-70 L lens under the same conditions. even hand held with the L lens it is sharper than the 100mm

with a tripod. the camera body i am using is the 5D.

 

i have heard before that L lenses are sharper than other canon lenses and the price of them would

probably make you expect that. does anyone have experience with this lens? could i just have an inferior

unit?

 

just to clairfy, i am syncing at 160, at F22 or 32, using ISO 50. using tripod and handheld and been

switching between both lenses mentioned above. the only consistant thing is the L lenses is sharper.

 

is there an F-stop on this macro lens that is best?

 

thank you

 

jon

i am having a problem with mamiya rz II film overlapping, with a fashion photographer

whom i assist with. i have worked with him for several years, we have always shot with the

RZ with no overlapping problems. yesterday we had several rolls where frames were

touching each other. this has been happening with a increasing frequency recently.

 

some details worth keeping in mind:

 

we have 2 of our own bodies, one new and the other was just overhauled in the shop. we

shoot 120. the film we used yesterday was fuji nph 400. we have used rental bodies and

backs in the past and have done body and back test with film that was processed and

checked for overlap (to resolve this issue). this had little if any help. all rolls were fine.

 

does anyone have any experience with this problem?

 

thank you

 

john

(new york)

another question i would like to add.......

 

can anyone suggest a place in the new york city area where ic

could compare the 2 rangefinders?

 

john

i have read the main differences about the 2 bodies, and the

comparitive price difference makes looking closer necessary.

 

my main focus is the new rangefinder assembly. i do take low

light/night shots often, so is the difference worth the price?

how much does mamiya charge to have the new assembly put

in the old 7 body?

is there much of a difference in the metering of the two bodies?

any hesitation in buying secondhand a body that is no longer

being manufactured? spare parts availability?

i am used to the leica M6/7 range finders so i wonder how they

compare to the mamiya finders for the 2 bodies, as far as

brightness is concerned.

 

thanking you in advance for any replies

 

john molloy

 

http://www.johnmolloyphotography.com

i have been taking pictures with a rollei 6008i for the last 2.5

years. in the last 6 months of that period i found myself taking the

camera with me less and less when i went out (and i brought it with

me everywehre, believe it or not). get my m6 3 months ago has

changed my enthusiasm for photography, i am learning again.

so "change your camera/lens" does work, for me.

the possibility of an "on-topic" subject to go south is the same as

an "off-topic" coming round to "leica/photgraphy". that is why we

are all here. i though the "boredom" thread was, refreshing,

interesting and i would like to have seen it up for a few more days.

it did get "phil" to suggest he might post a picture and comment

favorably on the picture posted (which is worth it in itself). sure

some threads need to be pulled when they get out of hand, but i take

grab shots because you never know what you might get.

"silvia 2" is my favorite of those type of shots. the tilt in head,

the angle that you catch her eye is interesting and worth exploring

some more. i like symmetry or deliberate asymmetry you could play

with that. the "berdine 7" could have benifited by more attention to

symmetry (the skin showing from her shoulders), but i don't find it

too interesting anyway.

 

<p>

 

thanks for showing

kristian.

 

<p>

 

i cannot pick three, but if i was to pick one it would be "bored". i

am not too excited about your titles. i do not have any suggestions

on this topic (i truggle with it myself all the time) but the simpler

the better.

 

<p>

 

good luck

so is "sharpening" something you do to make up for something lost in

the scanning process? or is it an add on?

i want to put a website together of my photography. i would like to know what settings people use when scanning there images. what dpi? what width they set there images at etc. i am trying to cut a balance between a easily downloadable files and still showing detail. i know that there are huge variables in what i am asking you to help me with. but suggestions would be appreciated.

masatoshi.

 

<p>

 

i maybe wrong but might get a reply to this if you post it again. i

might be wrong, but many people do not look at the forum over the

weekend (well some don't), like me.

 

<p>

 

sorry but my experience with the SF-20 is 7 days old, so i cannot

help you.

 

<p>

 

john

those jeans are screaming!