gregf
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Posts posted by gregf
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<p>personally I have 32GB of RAM and 5 SSD's, and I find that the RAM is more beneficial than the SSD's</p>
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<p>Hands down, the EOS-3</p>
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<p>Just focus the lens at infinity then set it to manual focus; but be careful not to bump the focus ring.</p>
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<p>I just got a 5D3 yesterday and am curious how you set AF illumination to on. Can someone enlighten me...</p>
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<p>1) All my glass is L series, I like the construction and glass<br>
2) Moderate difference in Dof at 1.2 vs. 1.4. Huge difference in available light.<br>
3) Absolutely Not<br>
4) Interior architecture, landscape where I want razor thin DoF</p>
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<p>I just borrowed one from CPS, and all I can say is wow! A major step up from the 5D line.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the tip Brooks, I ordered two packs</p>
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<p>Does anyone know a source for 8 x 12 paper. I really hate cropping my photos to fit 8x10. And 13x19 (pretty close to 3:2) get's expensive</p>
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<p>Thanks both of you for responding. That's what I thought until I read the Amazon reviews where people were saying it could be used for daylight photography. I guess I wanted an astro body with a free crop body thrown in!</p>
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<p>I am looking at getting a 60Da. Does anyone have experience with it, or even 20Da? According to some reviews on Amazon, it can shoot regular photo's in Daylight, is this true? Thanks</p>
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<p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=4164596">Michael Linder</a> <a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub6.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/3rolls.gif" alt="" /></a>, Aug 20, 2013; 03:19 p.m.</p>
<p>ADMIN: Please see the following thread I posted previously. I would really appreciate a response as to whether there are any plans to modify existing programming to enable us to obtain our rating averages, even though there may be less than 5 ratings. If there are no such plans, please say so. Thanks!</p>
<p>Just go into your portfolio and export your photo's to a CSV file. It will show you all ratings.</p>
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<p>lol, really how much quicker can it be than flipping a switch?!?</p>
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<p>Yeah, if I take a photo that shows subject distance and put it in any other folder, it correctly shows subject distance</p>
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<p>Post a picture show how it came out</p>
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<p>I shoot with the white balance of 2700 Kelvin. Then I apply auto-levels in PS, then I swap the channels. After I swap the channels, I go into Hue/Saturation and really bring down the saturation of the Magenta's, that give the foliage a white-ish look.</p>
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<p>Probably not that much of an effect on regular photo's. But I would not remove the hot filter, I am too afraid that I might damage the sensor or other vital electronic components. You can always up the ISO sensitivity to 1600 or even 3200 to get shorter exposures.</p>
<p>Also remember that there is a *lot* of post processing with IR. When you take the photo, out of the camera it just looks like a red photo. Here is an example with no post processing:<br>
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<p>I have a problem with Bridge (CS6). I divide up my photography in one directory, with a subdirectory for each photoshoot I do. Now in some directories the subject distance is shown, whilst in other directories, no subject distance is shown. Now every photo in a folder either has subject distance or it does not have it. The same body/lens in directory #1 shows subject distance but in directory that same combo does not show it.</p>
<p>There is an option to view certain metadata, and subject distance is checked. I just don't get why it shows in some folders but not others. As you see both of these are from the 5D2 with the 50 f/1.2 lens, but one shows it and the other does not. Any ideas?</p>
<p><img src="http://www.gregoryferdinandsen.com/with_subject_distance.png" alt="" width="309" height="328" /></p>
<p><img src="http://www.gregoryferdinandsen.com/without_subject_distance.png" alt="" width="323" height="313" /></p>
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<p>I used to use an R72 filter on an unmodified camera, the only problem with that approach is long shutter times. The high Av value frequently cause tree's and such to not look so sharp. I have since picked up on EBay a modified 40D. I really prefer the modified body, but if you can't shell out the $500 or so, then yeah, just use the R72 filter. What body are you using?</p>
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<p>I can open TIFF's and even JPG's in ACR</p>
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<p>Ed, I have the same problem, I would like to sort by Exposure Compensation, but Bridge (I use CS6) does not have that option.</p>
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<p>"interchangeable lens products - a highly profitable segment that Canon dominates."<br>
<br>
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I wonder just where the WSJ has the data to back up that claim. From what I see out and about, Canon just slightly edges Nikon in dSLR bodies.</p>
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<p>Even on a tripod with a level, I find my shots off consistantly 1 degree clockwise. Never though it could be because of my eyesight!</p>
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<p>There is nothing like seeing your image come alive through the pentaprism.</p>
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<p>I hope someboday can help me, I just joined CPS as a Gold Member and would like to "play with" the TS-E 17mm, if I find it matches my style, I may break the bank for it. In any event, what is the procedure one goes through to request a lens? The CPS website says you can borrow for "a week or two", how long do you typically use a borrowed lens? Finally, do they take your credit card number as security against you damaging/losing the lens?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for any responses.</p>
Legacy Box
in Scanning & Scanners
Posted
In the past (Distant past maybe 10 years ago) I used Scan Cafe to scan my slides...times have changed...I now must be more frugal...Has anyone tried Legacy Box? If so, what are your thoughts)? I do not need any touch ups...that I can still do on my own...