johnw63

Rodeo_Joe1,

Thanks for the examples. I hadn't thought about color fringing or how soft old lenses might be at the edges. The Sony A7II is only 24MP, so this may not show up quite as much.  I like the 58mm f1.2 for the wide open or nearly wide open look, so that lens would be soft at the edges on film in that use.

I don't have an issue using the old film Minoltas I have, but the cost of developing and and scanning to digital media.  How many rolls would it take to pay for a $700 mirrorless body would be the logical question, I supposed.

Thanks to all for the insights.

My D7000 lets me put in the focal range of manual lenses. Does the Z5 not have that feature?

I don't have any wide angle lenses in the small collection I have. Just a 58mm f1.2 and a 135mm f2.8. The camera and lenses also came with a Vivitar zoom from the same time period, a 35-200mm f3-4.5, but I don't expect that to me a lens I will use a lot, unless if gives surprising results.

I see KEH has Sony A7 bodies under $700, so those have my interest. My other camera gear is all somewhat older Nikon, so looking at their mirrorless offerings makes sense, if I can adapt AIS and AF lenses to a Nikon mirrorless body with good results. I don't have the newer AF stuff and use a D7000 because it works will with MF lenses. I just wish NIkon had  a more robust used market in their mirrorless full frame bodies.

I was revisiting my old stash of camera gear, and while most of it is Nikon film stuff, I have a few old Minoltas with a couple good lenses. I've see a few web pages that mention using full frame mirrorless cameras with adapters to get pretty good results.

Does anyone have experience with this and have a suggested camera?  It doesn't have to be a new model.

I've been out of the hobby for a while. 2016 was my last post here. My knowledge is out of date, and I'll bet this question is old enough to cause some sighs of " THIS again ? " . But, it still seems topical, but more in comparison to the new Z series.

My newest Nikon is the D7000. I would like to move up to full frame and get more modern auto focus and other improvements. Looking at Nikon's site and KEH for current new and used prices, it looks like the D750 is the lowest cost full frame I can get.( $1000 used and $1200 new ) It is , to my surprise a 5 year old camera. I really don't have many new lenses. No AF-S at this point. All AF-D type and AIS. I would like to start moving into the AF-S . The cost of the mirrorless Z series is beyond my budget.

Is the D750 my best upgrade route, even though it is 5 years old ?

<p>I checked out the Sony RX100. It fits the bill size and speed wise. I just wish it had a EVF. I'm not enamored of LCD screens for out door use in bright conditions. </p>

<p>Prices at UK Amazon doesn't help me much, really. I'm not in the UK. On the US Amazon site, it's either used or an international product. Some of which are trying to be sold for MORE than MSRP. </p>

<p>Methinks the domestic supply has dried up. I'm rather surprised that this would be the case with no replacement in that segment. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Just checked those two cameras. The panasonic is similar to the Nikon, but the lens is much slower. The Sony is not even the same style of camera, and certainly won't fit in a pocket. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>The zoom range isn't the biggest draw. I'm looking at trying to keep the lens speed faster. The P7800 also has a EVF. I don't want to shoot from an LCD on the back. </p>

<p>Sorry, I've been out of the loop, ant reading up on stuff here, nor checking out the usual web sources, so this may be a dumb question, but....</p>

<p>I was back to checking out smaller, pocket cameras, for when I don't want a bag of stuff on my hip. I stopped at the Nikon web page and saw the P7800 was still there, which was announced in 2013. However, it was out of stock there. Further checking shows that only used ones seem to be around. Did Nikon announce a replacement and stop making this one, and I missed it ? </p>

<p>I will admit it wasn't the perfect camera, and my search of this site found a thread where I commented on the release with some skepticism. <br>

So, is there news on that product line I should know about ? </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I highly doubt there was ANY family issues. Why wouldn't they have said so before and how did these "issues" not keep them from doing other work ? What HAPPENED is you started using a very public and important to them medium, Facebook! Now, your complaint is out for other customers to see. They don't want THAT. So, suddenly, your old forgotten files are worth doing, if they can find them. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>If there WAS going to be a list, I'd like my name on the draft list !</p>

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<p>Don't you hate it when you hit a button without realizing it ! Glad you figured it out. </p>

<p>Nice last name. Perhaps we are related in some distant way ? </p>

<p>Kent didn't pull any punches, did he !</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Ian,</p>

<p>Don't buy off of eBay !! <br>

<br />OK, let's change that a little, ..Don't buy off of eBay unless it is a well known dealer that is authorized in the brand you want. Since you don't yet KNOW who that would be.... don't buy off eBay !!! :)<br>

Are you trying to surprise her ? If not, start going to places that carry DSLRs and try a few out in person. Sometimes, one brand's shape and button layout may not work for you, where another might have stuff that magically fits where her fingers want to be. <br>

You lens list makes a case for a Macro lens, a basic wide angle lens, and an all purpose telephoto lens. How GOOD they are in those areas changes how much they are going to cost. Anyone of them could easily cost more then the camera it's self. However, what is only acceptable to a Pro shooter may look GREAT to your and your other half. So, how do you know ? I would start with a multipurpose lens or two and learn with them. After a while you will know a lot more about what you need and how much you are willing to spend on getting it. I would just not buy the cheapest ones you can find. <br>

The Nikon D5100 or D5200 would be a fine place to start... or something with similar features in another brand, if it fits your hands better. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Phil,</p>

<p>Try resetting the SMC, which stands for System Management Controller. It regulates things that control startup , shutdown, and other power related events. Every now and then, it just needs to be reset. I can't remember the keys to hold while starting that will do that, on your model Mac Pro. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>So many people shoot sunsets that the percentage of GOOD ones tends to be small. However, I think just about ANY subject is worth doing, if it can be done well.</p>

<p>A guitar store or Wayne's World example. I'm sure not a day goes by, in a good sized guitar store, that SOMEONE starts playing Stairway to Heaven. To the point that ,I think, in the movie Wayne's World there was a sign in the store that said, " NO Stairway to Heaven ! ". It's not that the song is bad, in fact it's a rock iconic song, it is that so many people try to play it and so many do it badly. If Jimmy Page walked into a guitar store and played the song, no one would have a problem with it ! </p>

<p>Sunsets can all look the same if the picture has no focus, other than to say, " Now isn't that a pretty sunset. ". </p>

<p>What ?!</p>

<p>You're actually USING a Nikon Df ? I thought only collectors would buy those and keep them on the shelf to look at. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>My cameras are a D7000 and an F4, so it would be best to stay with an FX capable lens. I need to read up on the way to tell the difference between the AF versions, I guess. I like the 75-150mm because it is small and light. There are just some times when my distance from the action fell between the 150mm and my 300mm. I figured something that reached a bit further would help fill that gap. Not being a pro, with a vest and credentials means I can't get where I WANT to be, and I have to make due from father away. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>That's the one where the price jumps a bit. About $400 for the one touch zoom in EX condition to about $425 in BGN condition or $515 for EX for the newer one.</p>

<p>Is it worth the difference, or is the best deal to go with the BGN of the newer style ? </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've been sort of waiting for the prices to drop and my bank account to move up for a while, so that I could purchase an 80-200mm f2.8 AF lens. I'm just a hobbyist and I don't need the newest, fastest, bestest lens, but, I am looking for an AF lens to fit where I use my 75-150 Series E for auto races. The Series E is nice and small, but I do have to prefocus for fast moving shots. If I had money to burn, I'd look at something that goes to 300mm, and leave my 300mm F4.5 at home too, but... that's not going to happen soon.</p>

<p>So, below the newest version, so that I can find good deals on a used one, how do they stack up ? I think I've read that the one that was before the AF-S ( came with tripod mount ) version had faster auto focus than the previous ones. I'm not sure how MUCH faster it is or if it is worth the extra price. If you've used this family of lenses, let me know your thoughts on them. </p>

<p> </p>

Adorama has some refurbished:

http://www.adorama.com/INKD600R.html

and as a kit with the 24-85mm

http://www.adorama.com/INKD600K1R.html

<p>Can you get a cheap laser pointer ?</p>

<p>You can check which part vibrated by taping the laser to it. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>The F4 should meter for all stops and ones in between the lens stops. You should be able to move the aperture ring to any position, even between the stops and get different readings. The stops are for humans to know where the full stops are.</p>

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<p>Looking at what you have, on the Adorama web site, I would have to guess your ball head may be fine, but the tripod may be not sturdy enough to dampen the vibrations. Do you use it with the center column up very much ? The taller the center is, the more vibration you may see.</p>

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