richard_warren

You will not find parts or accessories for this camera.

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It is a good camera but dealers will not touch them due to a scarcity

of parts. The lens board is 6x6" sheet metal with raised pivits; not

an easy lensboard to manufactor.

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Look for an old Calumet or Burke & James. They sell in that price

range

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rw

Call "Crome" Denis should know the answer to your question

Thanks Neil. I will test the Caltar anyway- very interesting that

one in the series should fall by the wayside.

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The Dagor that I have available to me is not multi coated. It was

not a concern because I plan to do mostly black & white, but yes the

multi coating would certainly effect contrast in any case.

First of all a question that can be answered objectively. I am told that all Caltar lenses are made by Rodenstock, therefore are Rodenstock quality. I have an old 375mm Caltar that I have not tested. This lens was probably made in the 60s (guessing by wear & tear, plus were I obtained the lens) Any chance it is Rodenstock quality ?

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Now for the subjective part. I am looking for a sharp lens with some character for 8x10. I will use it for general use, portraits, landscape, still life etc- all black & white. I am going to test two different lenses: Schnieder Symar S 360mm 6.8 (I know how big it is) and a Gold Dot 14" Dagor ( in a copal shutter made after schnieder bought Dagor- I am guessing the lens was made in the early 70s).

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They are both sharp lenses. I am expecting the comparrison to be simular to comparing a 35mm format Nikkor lens to a 35mm format Zeiss lens. Both are sharp but the Nikkor has more contrast than the Zeiss. In this scenerio I am guessing the Schnieder to be like the Nikkor (higher contrast) and the Dagor to be like the Zeiss (sharp but less contrast than Schnieder)

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Any opinions ? Suggestions ??

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thanks in advance

I have an 8x10 enlarger that is optimized with a 240mm lens. While there are a few 240mm lenses available, the Nikkor 240mm 5.6 is priced far and above the rest. This lens retails at 2000.00!! What is the big deal about this lens? My philosophy has always been "get the best enlarging lens" but this is a huge difference. Any comments on this lens??

 

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thanks

I am the guy who is wanting to do macro work with 8x10 format, one to one, or even 3 to 1. I wanted to do a test using an enlarging lens on my camera ( Schnieder 150mm APO HM). In addition to the enlaging lens test; I wanted to test two other lenses that might be good for this application. I was able to pick up a couple of lenses on ebay; (2 lenses for around 200.00). Schnieder 150mm G Claron, and 4" Red Dot Artar. The Artar is not corrected for 1to1, but it is short and supposed to be a good lens. Each of these lenses are not in a shutter. I am going to do my tests with flash, and in a dark room. I will use the lens cap as my passive shutter. Can anyone recommend a chart for me to photograph? Other than a chart , can anyone recommend something else to photograph?

Also any pointers on something I have over looked. I will make sure everything is square, level my front & back standards to subject matter plain, etc. I would appreciate any pointers. Thanks in advance.

richard

Thank you to all who have respond to my original question; using an

enlarging lens for Marco work. The tread has now changed to testing

enlarging lenses. That's ok- the learning curve never ends. I did

not know that Fuji made enlarging lenses. The idea with the enlarging

lens is just to try it out and see If I even like this type of images.

If so then I will buy a proper macro lens. I have heard that G

Claron, Rodenstock 150mm f9 and red dot artars are good for macro

work. Any thoughts on a macro lens ???

I want to shoot close ups of flowers with my 8x10 camera. I have a 300mm lens and currently my bellows ext. is 40 " and I am still not filling the frame with my subject. Obviously I could get a shorter focal lenght lens and this would shorten my bellows. Can an enlarging lens be used ?? I am trying to fill a 8x10 frame and the subject (flower) is only 4x4 inches. I have several enlaging lenses and all my exposures are long ones so I do not need a shutter. Any suggestions?? Thank you in advance !!!!!

photomall.com go there for elwood. With all due respect Dick... Did

you know that L&R in nyc is out of the darkroom?!?. The large format

"stomping grounds" not only stopped selling darkroom stuff, but they

also stopped selling 8x10 FILM!!!. As you know they still sell many

lenses. What is this world coming to ???

Just for images: check out Albert Watsons books. The square pics are

2/14 but the rectangles are 4x5

RW

I have taped filters for many years-I use four peices of tape foled

into a circle- works great-

Some time ago I saw a post about this subject and could not find it in the archives. When I first started tray developing 8x10 negs in PMK Pyro, I was having some problems with the negs sticking together, and either getting a "static charge" exposure when I spearated the negs or part of the emulsion was torn. However it got there, I want to remove it. This is an area of the neg which is totally clear (except for the defect) ie film base + pyro stain. I know if I bleach out the defect that the stain will go also. I do not think that this will matter as in the final print this area will be black-no detail. I have a couple of negs to experiment with, and was planning to do the following:

Re-wet the negative, and apply 10% ferri (in hypo) and bleach as you would a print (with running water). Once the "defect" is bleached out, I would re-fix (maybe with hardener) and wash. I know that this is "gorrila" darkroom work, but I want to save the neg and do not feel that scans and computers can reproduce 8x10 neg quailty, (even if they can there is a cost issue) Any suggestions about my quest???

thanks

Richard

I saw this gadgit at a camera store used. It takes 60 PSI air in the back and puts an ionized charge which comes out a hose with a plastic nozzle. The dealer is not sure what it is worth (wants 175.00), I would want to know more about what it is worth before I make an intelligent offer. Anyone know what this thing is worth ??

 

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Thanks.

RW

Type 55 is beautiful film- do not let anyone tell you different. I

assume that you have called Polaroid. If you have not-they have a 800

# and are very willing to help- they even have a magazine on polaroid>

perhaps you have seen it. Tearing Polaroid a part is always tricky>

I am curious what your results will be. Remember that regular fixer

will peel the emulsion right off. If you want a hard neg you first

use sodium sulfate (2 min.) then reg fix w/ hardener (1min) then put

into clean sodium sulfate (2 min.) wash as normal

richardwarren@rcn.com

Ditto: Steve Grimes. He is in New England. You can get his number

from any copy of View Camera magazine.

There is a great place in Florida. I do not have the number on me so

you will have to get a copy of Shutterbug. Yhey advertise in the back

under "services". The name of the place (or at least what is on the

ad ) Replacement Bellows. They are very nice and helpful. They will

guide you to repair your bellows or make a new one. I just had a 8x10

bellows made new from them for $150.00 I am very happy.

I asked a lens guru friend of mine about getting a "character Lens" to shoot editorial type portraits. He mentioned a Voightlander Heliar (uncoated). He said it was a sharp lens but they used it for portraits. I found one from a portrait photographer and he said it was soft. I bought it for $300.00, and I love it. It seems sharp ( I just started shooting 8x10 so "sharp" is relative) It is flat meaning very little contrast- so that is why it might be considered soft. I shoot only B&W with filters to increase contrast. I see this lens with high price stickers $800-1200. Anyone know this lens ? Whats all the fuss ??? Does anyone have a "character" lens that they like?

I visited the UK web site. They have the product that you are looking

for and they do make it in 120 volt for "North American" users.

I have a question. Why would a f stop timer be of any advantage?

We have all made prints where one second here & there makes a

difference. Unless the timer works in one/tenth of an f stop

increments; are you not missing out on this "one second extra"

control? Am I missing something ?

I have a Bessler 4x5 ( I think it was called MCRX) that I have had for

over 20 years. The motor works as good as new and any accessories

that I need are readily available. I am not an expert on other

enlargers but I do love this machine.

RW

Greetings. Iam new to this forum and I am impressed with who is out

there. We large format shooters are an endanrered speices. Keep up

the good work ! Your replies have confirmed what I thought was

available in compensating timers ie: Merolux ll, and Zone 6.

I have a flyer from Metrolux, the were accessable, informitive and

nice. Yes for years I have used the warm up method of printing with a

cold light. When I used to print 2 1/4 negs without a glass carrier;

I would set up to print; then cover the lens and hit the timer. As

soon as the timer ran out > I would uncover the lens and then expose

the paper. This did two things: first it would pre-heat the negative

( I would also focus on a pre-heated negative- even cold lights have

some heat) and 2 this would help reduce any drift from the cold light

itself. This works however it is time consuming when doing multiple

prints. This is a time vs. expense issue. I will continue to search

for a used Metrolux ll timer. Wish me luck !!

I am setting up a new darkroom to accomadate 8x10 negative printing. I have an 8x10 aristo cold light head and no timer. I am considering buying a compensating timer such as the MetroLux ll or the Zone 6. I will be doing multiple prints (16x20 and larger) of 25. I want repeatable results, not cold light drift. I have been printing 4x5 with a cold head for many years with no problem but then again I was not doing this amount of prints from same neg. Does anyone have the MetroLux ll ?? This is what I am leaning towards. (please no metronone replies) Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks

RW

I am not an expert on B&J cameras> there are many people who are

(MidWest Photo, Lens & Repro) but my father in law had one and it was

a flat bed like a Deardorf. Nice camera. I am replying because I

believe that 750 is alot of money for that camera. B&J is not made

anymore. what if you need parts ?? I would buckle down with the

lastest copy of Shutterbug and make some calls. I recently bought an

8x10 with 3 bellows, 3 backs, extension etc for $150.00. Although

this is a rare find . the point is to shop around.. If you have

already bought your camera. do not feel bad> you have a nice 8x10