pallet fork

<p>Were you using an FX or DX sensor - you are aware that it is a 14-24mm correct (i.e. super wide have this problem it's physics)?? It offers superior flare suppression (in it's class) but does not offer slare elimination. Having said all this this lens is a dream. Personally, I never thought 17-35 was as good as people said - my lens lacked that last bit of sharpness; you might think different. </p>

Thanks. Think I have a better idea now. Most people would probably not be able to squeeze the extra functionality and resolution out of this camera unless they are experienced photographers with top notch glass.

Can people with experience on both bodies summarize what are the imaging

characteristics of both ( i.e. resolution, noise, dynamic range etc...). Thanks.

After more than a year, my impression is that it is very very sharp.. so much so that wide-open it leaves you very little room for error on focusing. Wish I had a little more barrel travel. On the noctilux you have a huge travel on the focusing barrel, but at F1.0 you really need it.

 

FWIW ..It's not a substitute for a NOX..keep both.

Good glass especially wide angle, compact, inobstrusive, quiet, street photography, low light advantage. Same can be said of most Rangefinders but Leica does it the best.

You did not mention price as a constraint so lets start at the high end...

 

If you want publication quality at the highest level my recommendation is for a Hasselblad/Imacon flextight 949 which is their top of the line scanner. It will also run you close to $20k. They also make an "intro" level scanner at around $4k called the 343. These should outperform all the other Nikon/Minolta scanners out there.

 

Now in sub $1k range you way want to take a look at the NIKON 5000, and then for a bit less the Nikon V and Minolta 5400.

For me the Nox magic only works at night and at F1.0 and maybe a 1/2 stop smaller. ... otherwise its to damn large to lug around. The recently released lux 50 F1.4 ASPH is much more versatile.

At the risk of sounding a bit snotty.... Usually a Leica is not a "first camera" for most here and this question is a bit unusual. It looks like you need a bit more time behind the camera taking pictures. Then ask yourself what are you missing that you may get with a different lens. More or less angle, abillity to bridge distance, dopf , speed etc...

 

There are no real lemons in the leica M lens portfolio and nobody can answer this totally except yourself.

It might be the lens ( especially older ones) but since you have tried several then you probably need to get it recalibrated.

Eddie, great pictures, have you considered going pro or semi - maybe you already are. By the way, what film did you use and did you have any filters?

Is it out yet??

My 2 bits...

 

a) Scan them and get someone to print them as the current crop of

personal photo printers don't do b/w very well.

 

b) Use noise supression software as I am finding that scanners seem to be "noisier" than DSLRs for some reason. Noise Ninja just came out but lacks a comprehensive scanner profile library. Goods news is the software lets you create them.

Tend to use slide film with a Nikon 5000ED scanner. Usually ISO100 slide film ( velvia 100F or Kodak 100GX). The resolution I get seems to equate to something north of a 10MP DSLR (meaning the Canon 1ds or Kodak 14n) - the others (10D, D70, D2H) or 6-8MP DSLRs don't seem to be quite there ( though all will print fine at A3 size). The scanned image from silm though do seem a bit "noiser" in the shadows but have not compared it using Nikon's multi pass scans which are supposed to reduce noise ( anyway it takes much longer for one of these)....... What we really need is for someone with an Imacon Flextight to weigh in as I think the Nikon scanner is not the final word in low noise.

 

 

Notice this doesn't answer the question exactly. As this was a test of a DSLR sensor vs. Film scanner sensor.

To me anyway doesn't look like a sharpening issue. Seems like a problem with the rangefinder calibration. The pictures don't seem to have that critical focus in the right places or at least not focused where it ought to be.

 

Would like to know the RAW write speeds.

The m7 should give you a more "accurate" exposures as the electronic shutter speed gives you speeds in between speeds that the MP is incapable of. Having said that what is an "accurate" exposure?

At least it will have played some part in history. And defintely has more meaning than 700,000??

Steve, thanks for the info.

Only one real answer out of 12 responses. Hope this is not the typical s/n ratio on other subjects.

Just spotted a Green paint m6 in a shop. Does anyone know what the

going rate for something like this is? Seems quite hard to find.

None on mine - but I have the black paint version.

Thats what they said to Vinyl about 20 years ago. Still have to see a CD player beat Vinyl.

The black paint versions defintely have a different feel to the focusing and aperture rings over the normal ones. Any ideas?

Agree..however, I have found that the special lenses in

titatnium/black paint versions have a consistently smoother feel of

the older lenses especially the aperture ring. There is defintely

something conscious being done at production.

It really depends what you think is missing from your current

equipment lineup. Do you want to take wildlife (eg. birds, safari,

underwater)? Do you want to do studio?

 

<p>

 

1) For wildlife - I would get an AF SLR hands down and the F5 would

be my choice. f5 with full equipment spread can weigh you down.

 

<p>

 

2) Studio/still life - Hasselblad. Just a pain lugging around town

or on trips - trust me you don't want to do this unless you are

getting paid.

 

<p>

 

3)Landscape/outdoors - Linhoff ... going a bit over the deep end now.

 

<p>

 

4)If all you want is a Medium format version of what you do on the

Leica then the Mamiya 7ii is worth a think.

Using it with a motor-m and it is a formidable shooting machine!!

Maybe not for the hardcore M-purist but it is just such a pleasure

taking pictures with it - never been happier.

Please refer to Pg.94-95 of the M7 manual.