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tmorgan

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Posts posted by tmorgan

  1. <p>Paul,<br>

    Hmmm.</p>

    <p>If the file in question consists of just HTML, and has a file extension/MIME type that the web server recognizes, it should appear in your browser, so something odd is going on.</p>

    <p>If the material isn't confidential, if you post or email me the URL, I will take a look and see if I can see anything.</p>

    <p> ...Tom M< </p>

  2. <p>Paul,<br>

    Try putting the pages in question in the 'Sites' folder on your iDisk, then refer to the pages as:<br>

    http://homepage.mac.com/<user name>/<page name><br>

    I just tried this to make sure it is working. I used a basic text editor to create two pages, "test.html" and<br>

    "test2.html", in the Sites folder on my iDisk. <br>

    You can try the pages at this URL:<br>

    http://homepage.mac.com/tmorgan/test.html<br>

    Notice the URL *does not* contain the name 'Sites'. <br>

    It displayed as expected using Safari and FoxFire browsers. <br>

    If you start to use iWeb and are also making pages 'by hand', be careful about using the 'index.html' file, iWeb will overwrite that file it's own purposes.<br>

    ...Tom M </p>

  3. <p>Ken,</p>

    <p>Since you haven't gotten a response from some one with direct experience, here is a link that may help you:</p>

    <p>http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electronics/sca-adapter.html</p>

    <p>This is the tool that Metz provide, for looking up which SCA adapter to use with which camera/flash combination. I checked, and it does provide information for the 45 CL4 /Minolta 9000 combination.</p>

    <p>This link may also be useful to you: </p>

    <p>http://www.9000.org/index.php?page=flash_equipment</p>

    <p> ...Tom M </p>

     

  4. <p>Philip,<br>

    You can search around on this page: </p>

    <p> <a href="http://www.nyc.gov/calendar">NYC.gov Events Calendar</a></p>

    <p>to get some ideas ahead of time about events where people will gather. </p>

    <p>Once you arrive in the City, you can call '311' and ask about events, the 311 operators have access to the up to date event calendar.</p>

    <p>Any of the green markets/flea markets might be interesting to you.</p>

    <p>You can get some pretty novel views of streets from above and at odd angles from the recently opened <a href="http://www.thehighline.org/">Highline</a>.</p>

    <p>The shopping areas right after Christmas will be busy with bargain hunters.</p>

    <p>If you are going to Times Square for New Year's, here is some <a href="http://www.nyc.gov/html/misc/html/new_years.html">access info</a>.</p>

    <p> ...Tom M <br>

    <a href="http://www.nyc.gov/calendar"></a> </p>

  5. <p>Vincent,</p>

    <p>I can't answer about the Metz 54 mz-3, but I can tell you about the combination of a 7D with a Metz 54 mz-4.</p>

    <p>There is an <a href="../sony-minolta-slr-system-forum/00Do75">old thread</a> you might like to read. In it, I came to the conclusion that you couldn't use a Metz 54 mz-4, with SCA adapter 3302 m5 with a 7D body in anything other than Auto or Manual modes.</p>

    <p>Since then, there have been Internet postings that say you *can* use the flash in 'HSS/TTL' mode, which is how Metz labels the pre-flash metering mode you need for digital bodies (even though you are not using high shutter speeds).</p>

    <p>Before posting today, I borrowed a 7D body, and tried some exposures with the Metz 54 mz 54 and SCA 3302, now at level m7.</p>

    <p>I was able to get correct exposures in HSS/TTL mode, using both ADI and preflash TTL camera modes, but it was fiddly; you had to make sure that the flash and the body came to agreement to get into this mode.</p>

    <p>What seemed to work was to turn the body on first, then the flash. If the flash did not indicate 'HSS/TTL' mode, then leaving and re-entering the ADI or preflash modes and touching the shutter release (to get the camera and flash to dialog) would get the mode to appear; or if it did not appear, pressing the flash mode button and spinning the function wheel would get into the HSS/TTL mode. If the HSS still choice doesn't appear when spinning the function wheel, then start over after turning everything off and back on.</p>

    <p>You can confirm things by seeing that the camera is choosing a reasonable shutter speed/aperature combination in the view finder, or by taking a test shoot. If the HSS/TTL mode hasn't been established, there will be no pre-flash and the flash will also discharge at full power.</p>

    <p>The HSS/TTL mode wasn't available if the secondary flash was in use.</p>

    <p>If the SCA adapter you are getting is out of date, Bogen Imaging does the upgrades for Metz in the U.S.</p>

    <p> ...Tom M </p>

     

  6. <p>Emil,<br>

    I see you were not getting any responses.<br>

    This is a little sketchy, but you might experiment and get something good.<br>

    This 'Applescript' works for me: <br>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p><strong>tell</strong> application "iPhoto"<br>

    <br>

    start slideshow using album "SlideShow1"<br>

    start slideshow using album "SlideShow2"<br>

    <br>

    <strong>end</strong> <strong>tell</strong></p>

    </blockquote>

    When run, it shows first a slide show named 'SlideShow1', then when 'SlideShow1' finishes, it shows 'SlideShow2'. Be sure each slide show is set to *not* repeat, otherwise you will get trapped in the display of that slide show.

     

    This is not a great solution, because there is an annoying display of the iPhoto application in between each slide show stop/start.

     

    I notice you have an external monitor; a parameter of the 'start slideshow' Applescript command allows you to direct the slide show to a specific display; the transition between shows may look better if you do that.

     

    If you get something that works well, please let me know.

     

    ...Tom M

    </p>

  7. <p>Richard,<br>

    I took a look at your gallery this morning, using Safari, version 3.2.3, on a Mac. Everything worked for me.<br>

    I have one layout comment, a nit picking one.<br>

    If you have control of the position of these items, ou might consider re-arranging the collection of buttons in the upper right ('Style', 'Share', 'Slide Show', 'Buy', 'View Cart') to separate them into groups. I would put the 'Style' button somewhere out of the way, and separate 'Share' and 'Slide Show' into one location and 'Buy and 'View Cart' into another.<br>

    ...Tom M </p>

  8. <p>Nick,<br>

    Re: your first set of questions about off camera flash in aperture priority mode, there's lot's of good advice in the preceeding posts, but there is a lot to digest.<br>

    A really simple thing to try is "Hold the AEL button down when you take your picture". This has the effect of generating a 50-50 mix of ambient and flash when using the Sony system.<br>

    Working up from that action, take a look at this <a href="../photodb/presentation?presentation_id=456298"> presentation</a>. It shows some images taken with an A700 camera and HVL58AM flash, and dialing in a few different values of flash compensation.<br>

    ==<br>

    About what you are finding when you are using the camera with flash in manual mode, can you elaborate on what you are seeing that is different than what you expect? <br>

    I tried a few exposures with the camera in manual and the off camera flash in TTL and things looked okay to me.<br>

    Maybe you could post some images (with EXIF data) together with your notes and we might be able to be of more help.<br>

    ...Tom M </p>

     

  9. <p>Dennis,<br>

    Another option is to use any of the Metz flashes with SCA adapters. I have the 54 MZ4 with the SCA 3302 adapter. <br>

    The main reasons for going this route is if you have other manufacturer's gear; by using different SCA adapters, you can use the flash with all your gear. <br>

    The support for the Sony/Minolta cameras is good, I have used the Metz flash with Maxxum 7, KM 7D, A700 and A900 cameras. Of the flash functions I tried(*), the only function I have found not to work is wireless control mode with the 900 (the Metz flash does work in wireless remote mode).<br>

    If all your gear is Sony/Minolta, then I agree with Steve's advice to keep it simple and use current Sony flashes with your camera.<br>

    ...Tom M <br>

    (*)I might have missed a few functions to try</p>

    <p> </p>

  10. <p>Antoine,<br>

    About your item 1, we use Mathematica for this sort of image processing work at the university where I work. <br>

    Mathematica is expensive and a 'big boat', you have to work for awhile to be able to use it, but it certainly does all of the things you outline. It has <a href="http://www.wolfram.com/products/mathematica/newin7/content/BuiltInImageProcessing/"> builtin image processing abilities</a> and <a href="http://reference.wolfram.com/mathematica/guide/SignalProcessing.html"> signal processing functions</a> and it is powerful and fast enough to handle most anything you'd like to try.<br>

    About Genuine Fractals, yes, you are getting more than image sharpening with it, it does a nice job of super sampling intelligently. There is a free downloadable trial version you try out on your images.<br>

    About your third point, depending on what you are trying to accomplish, you might consider alternatives which work on ranges of luminosity rather than spatial regions. <br>

    You can adjust luminosity ranges with basic curves adjustments in almost any image processing program, or use the easier to use shadows/highlights processing that many image processing programs provide.<br>

    If you want to try out your equalization within window idea, you could try it out in Photoshop with a number of layers, selections and layer masks. After you try it by hand with a small number of windows, you could write a script that automated the process for a larger number of windows.<br>

    ==<br>

    If post some sample images and examples of what you'd like to do to them, that might help get you gather more responses.<br>

    ...Tom M </p>

     

  11. <p>D. F.<br>

    You're going to have fun with this. Here are some things to consider, based on my experience<br>

     

    <ul>

    <li>Figure on going thru a couple of pieces of gear before you settle on something you like. Either plan on renting gear for awhile, or buying beaters and re-selling.</li>

    <li>(A few people have mentioned this)Be sure to try out the range finders, they are worth a look.</li>

    <li>Once you start, you are likely to end up going bigger than 6x4.5 for landscapes</li>

    </ul>

    ...Tom M </p>

  12. <p>Richard,<br>

    Re: off camera flash use. That's one of the things I checked out. I have a Nikon SC-17 cable for this purpose. It worked with the M8 and SF24D in TTL/GNC mode.<br>

    I wouldn't be too ambitious about bouncing with this combination, you don't have a lot of light from this flash. It also appeared that even when there was enough light from the bounce, the more indirect the light, the more problematic the preflash exposure calculation became. </p>

    <p>The Nikon SC-17 is an older and annoying cable. It exits straight forward from the flash shoe and tends to get in the way of the lens, finder, fingers, ... </p>

    <p>The current Nikon off camera flash cable is the SC-28. I haven't tried this cable.</p>

    <p> ...Tom M</p>

     

  13. <p>This is documentation of two dumb things I did with an M8 plus SF24D flash, posted to save others from doing the same.</p>

    <p>I hardly ever use flash on the M8, but am about to. I figured I should try everything out first. When I did, the images were consistently over exposed when using the TTL/GNC mode of the SF24D, but okay when using the A mode of the flash.</p>

    <p>Hmmm.</p>

    <p>After some checking I found the first dumb thing I did: the little blue dot used by the camera for pre-flash measurement was <i>partially</i> obscured by a piece of tape I had covering the Leica red dot.</p>

    <p>Thinking that was it, I was disappointed to find that the TTL/GNC flashes were still over exposed :-(</p>

    <p>Futzing some more, I found the second dumb thing I did: I had an uncoded lens with the IR filter on, with the camera set to 'Lens detection - off'. This is not a good combination for flash;either leave the IR filter on, and set choice 'Lens detection - on UV/IR' (even though the lens is uncoded) or leave lens detection off and remove the IR filter.<br>

    ...Tom M </p>

     

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