maxasst

<p>Our D60 is on its last legs after 8 years of service and I am searching for an affordable replacement. I don't own any EF-S lenses, and still own two EOS 5 and one EOS Elan7e bodies, and had an original Elan in the past. Using the EOS 5 and Elan in the past was a joy because of their bright viewfinders. Not so much the Elan7, and least so the D60. Nonetheless, over the past 3 years, I have transitioned to using the D60 95% of the time and the film cameras see use only on Christmas and Easter. My lenses: 28-300mm L, 20-35mm 3.5-4.5, 50mm 2.5 plus lesser others.<br>

<br />I bought the Elan7e with 28-105 3.5-4.5 with 420ex through the wonderful advice on photo.net almost 10 years ago to this day, and the combo has served me well. I still have them.<br>

<br />So here I am today with different priorities. Sons play hockey and we have another baby. I want a camera with fine image quality for daily use, yet be able to focus quickly in our local ice rink when lights are not optimal. I learned here that my D60 and 28-300 L lens were suboptimal for the two situations. I was constantly changing out lenses or bouncing flash or missing quick shots because I could not rely on autofocus or discriminate contrast enough for me to focus manually.<br>

<br />I am purchasing from a reliable online merchant so I won't be able to try it out before purchase. I am considering an old EOS 1D Mark II due to low light focusing > image quality at higher ISO> reliability.<br>

<br />I am trying to rule out/reconsider the EOS 30D thinking it might not last as long and maybe I'll purchase one EF-S lens like an 18- med tele. The specifications of the 30d's viewfinder sound good and 5fps might be fast enough if the focus is quick for hockey. I also like the idea of a display bigger than the 1.8inch one on the D60.<br>

<br />I'd keep using the D60 and just keep dealing with swapping out 20-35 for the 28-105 lenses, but something internally is intermittently failing with shoe-mount flash, so now I can only rely on the D60 for fill flash or outdoor use. I have used my 540EZ on full manual quite a few times. Do-able, but painfully inefficient. I resorted to that scheme during a birthday party and I had no other options. I won't sell any of my current camera bodies and lenses since they are still somewhat functional, and I know they won't garner any cash worth the effort. a 1.3 sensor dSLR would breathe new life into my full-frame film lenses.<br>

<br />I wish I could afford two new cameras, a 5d and a 1D Mark IV, but realistically, I need a dSLR with a viewfinder has similar qualities as my ol EOS 5. <br />Hellp.<br>

<br />Roy</p>

<p> </p>

Not my blunder, but one from the official photographer at a wedding of a friend.

 

During the reception which was at a not so brightly lit banquet hall with low ceilings, I thought how difficult it

would be to get great shots. I noticed that the official photographer, although very professional and

comfortable interacting with the subjects, was checking his camera's lcd a LOT. He had an assistant who

was constantly repositioning a remote flash around as directed. Unfortunately, I could tell that it was a

simple light slave unit that was constantly being triggered by everyone else's camera in the room.

 

I really felt bad for the guy, but felt worse for my friend, so I brought out my camera (Canon D60 with 50mm

1.8 lens and flash), but instead of capturing the exact moments while all the flashes were going off in a

flurry, I maintained my framing of the shot and fired the shutter immediately after the flurry. It meant

missing the exact moments, but at least the exposures were correct.

 

Sure enough, a couple of weeks after the wedding, the newlyweds returned from their honeymoon, found

out the photographer's blunder and sent out a mass plea e-mail for pictures by guests taken during the

wedding and reception.

 

Lesson painfully learned: know your tools before you commit to use them.

My child and her classmates won a play competition and I want to create a

collage that looks like a poster from a Movie Theater. There were only 5 of

them in the play, so I was thinking of individual photos across the bottom with

small captions superimposed on a background photo with the whole group. There

will be two sizes of pictures 4x6 and 8x12. I only have Photoshop Elements 2

on my computer. Can it be done? Is there free software that can help me

achieve this? Thank you.

Thomas, yes, the intention with this camera is for gearing down, but I still want flash. No compromise there.

Peter, thanks for the suggestions, but I think I'll still search for Leica. Even if I got a great Canon rangefinder, I'll still be curious about some of that Leica vintage camera experience.

Christopher, I don't use glassses, and I am leaning toward the 50mm Summicron for the f/2 max aperture. I'm not a collector of fine pieces, cameras are either toys or tools for me. I'll use them for the joy of photography or to properly document. It will be engraved because that's what would make my wife happy. That narrows the list: IIIg or IIIf ST and 50mm Summicron or Summitar ideally the collapsible type. NOW to find the right place to obtain them is the challenge.

John, was replacing the mirror a difficult task? When I looked at leicas in the past, they all had some issue or another. If the mirror is a low cost/risk servicable item, I'll expand my candidates to include these. I didn't realize that there was a difference in electronic flash and flashbulbs. Man, I really need to find a good book on these. Bill, I have a basic 85 Graduate owned previously by the vice pres. of the car parts supplier in Charlottesville, VA, when we lived there. Nice to hear of another alfa enthusiast.

Francisco, I'm not daunted by the film loading ritual, and will never be in a rush to load film in this camera. I handled a IIIA, IIIF with self timer, and a IIIG, as well as a Canon P in the past, and they were in various states of condition. I'd definitely want one with a distinct rangefinder secondary image for focusing. The Canon was the easiest to use, but I guess I want that vintage feeling of working the camera. Driving a Ford truck is easy, predictable and consistent; just point and shoot. Driving a car with no power steering into a curve and matching revs on a downshift with an a weak synchronized gearbox is not; this I drive with feel and with auditory feedback. Bet you can guess which I enjoy more.

Thank you all for the overwhelming responses! Such a passionate group! Beautiful images, Jack. These are what I'd like to produce with the lens. I appreciate the feedback, like Bill's caution about support and the countering posts of good repairshops around. Maybe a little background might help. My wife wants to get me something and have it engraved for our wedding anniversary. I can't very well do that to a polycarbonate digital camera, the vibrations would wreck its sensitive circuit board! So, it's an opportunity and I'd like to indulge in rangefinders which I haven't done in over 20 years. There is an appeal of a totally mechanical camera, moreso a camera that is over five decades old. I wouldn't mind trying to disassemble a dead donor camera just to see how it all works. I appreciate Bill's comments, and the same was considered when I purchased a sporty car about 10 years ago. The affordable ones demanded specialized attention, and the Alfa we bought I decided was the best because the mechanicals were very straightforward and the then state of the art design was bulletproof within sane parameters, plus the internet support for this marque has been topnotch. The postings here for Leica are far more mature, secure and passionate than other camera marques. I approach my camera quest with the same mindset. The camera would be loaded with a 12exp 400ASA film and carried to occasional events like weddings, baptisms or perhaps dinner at a fancy restaurant where I'd like to catch the moment in a classy manner both equipment wise and picture wise. The timer would be very necessary to steady the shutter release, and so I can get my mug in the shot. I'll shy away from the attached self timers for now. Why the flash? Well, good exposure to me demands taming and controlling the light, so I use it during harsh day shots to help shadows, to bounce off the side for dramatics, or use indoors where fluorescent is the predominant source of illumination. I'm just accustomed to its usefulness I guess and I find some exposures substandard without it. I am eyeing on a small manual chrome trimmed Metz flash that could match the outfit. But, first things first - Body and Lens. I'll check out the sites in the upcoming week.

I have become interested in rangefinder photography and plan on purchasing a

camera body and lens. My objective in this camera is to delve into the Leica

Screw Mount world. I researched the other brands initially for a small camera,

but have now decided to consider only Leica. I want to bring this small camera

to events where I don't want the bulk or attention of my SLR. Requisites: it

must have a self-timer, flash PC connection, and must be reliable. Do

conversions of earlier models to timer and/or flash accomodation compromise the

camera or are they functionally equal with no drawbacks whatsoever? A IIIG

would be nice, but they are pricey. A IIIf with selftimer is a prime

candidate, but the converted or updated IIIa or IIIc cameras seem cheaper. I

want an ol' timey aura of a lens in 50mm or perhaps 35mm focal length. What

models summar, summarit, summitar or summicron or other lend themselves to

this? Lastly and most importantly, where can I purchase this online where the

vendor is very forthcoming, reasonably priced and accurate? There are no good

Leica camera places within 3 hours drive of me, so I'm relying on internet.

Thank you.

Will this fit in the accessory shoe and have enough clearance between the

viewfinder and the shutter selection dial? What camera bodies was this

Metrophot Leica Meter 2 supposed to fit and be used? Thank you.

Manual exposure setting, expose just snow at 1.5 above meter reading for film. If I am using digital and the subject occupies less than a 1/4 of the composition, then I get the histogram as far to the right as possible without blowing out any details of the subject itself. I use flash extensively as fill, as it makes a big difference. I like sidelit and backlit pictures, and flash keeps the extremes within reach of the film or sensor.

Wow! that's immediate feedback!

Paul, aside from ASA and plastic, what aspects of the GT-e do you find undesirable? I just missed one on eeebey for less than $65.00. Are they that cheap for a bad reason?

I am an amateur with a comprehensive SLR system, but am now find the need for a

small pocketable camera, not necessarily a Leica. I am posting it here because

I could not find another category in photo.net that comes close to this. The

purpose is to have a discreet camera for events that are more formal and I

don't want to bring the bulk of an SLR, and for use as a quick backup camera.

 

Criteria in decreasing order of importance: 1. camera must use readily

available 800ASA 35mm roll film; 2. must fit in a coat pocket of a suit; 3.

must accurately use lithium, alkaline or silver-oxide batteries, or better yet,

no batteries; 4. can have good reliability history or easily remedied

issues; 5. can have hotshoe or coldshoe/PC connection for flash; 6. Any

brand, weight or material of composition will be considered for inclusion.

 

I have found that the Minox 35 models GT-e, GT-s, GT-eII suit the criteria;

Voigtlander Vito II looks interesting, Balda Jubilette also looks interesting

from cursory research. Thank you. I am eager to learn and use Rangefinders!

Under the same conditions, the telephoto lens you purchased from Walmart will give better results than a wide-short tele zoom lens with teleconverter.

I have the same flash and body as you have, but I haven't used X mode. I usually use Manual mode, so take my opinion in that perspective. If you have a flashmeter, you can easily determine if it is metering properly with a covered front of the flash. My understanding of the red emitted lights are for distance determination with A-TTL. It also works with focus assist which is not supported by the EOS 5. In these cases, you don't lose anything in your proposal. I have used this flash and body with an off camera shoe cord where the the flash is not directly pointed at the subject and exposures are just fine, so long as I am within the limits of the flash capabilities. I have a small Lumiquest softbox measuring about 8x6 inches with a notch in the bottom to clear the red light area. It was cheap at KEH.com. Good luck!

Indoors, the 17-50 lens seems most useful. If there is some sort of presentation, then having the 70-300 IS lens for portraiture to identify key people, and to crop out things like harsh backlighting, distracting backgrounds or surroundings. Use the flash. Often in school or industrial settings, fluorescent lighting abounds, so I expose the background to about 1 stop down from the subject's metering and use the flash to make up the difference. Bounce it off the wall or ceiling if it is within 5 feet.

I use both hood and filter but remove the filter when I use a tripod, which usually means I absolutely want best results. I got the 28-300mm L IS lens recently and it has a huge front element with all that glass exposed. I agree with the hood helping with protection, but the hood of this particular lens is even smaller than the one on my 20-35mm lens, so I'm glad that I bought the B+W F Pro MRC which I promptly applied after unpacking at the UPS Store.

I just received my 28-300 L IS USM lens last night and tried it out taking pics of my kids hockey for about 5 minutes. It is big and heavy, so it goes in an extra large holster pack with broad shoulder strap so carrying it around is easier. It does attract attention, this time to an advantage. Other parents in the vicinity would offer me their spot for a better angle. Did I say it's big? It is so big that I felt I was Moses parting a sea of people when I pulled it out of the bag. Using it is so nice. Hockey players move fast and when they skate towards me, I can now get shots I would have missed or just wouldn't try with my 70-200. I planned on using this along with a 16mm fisheye for travel. It is far more convenient now, weighs less and occupies less space than my other previous combinations of lens.

Canon WP-1 is a 35mm fixed waterproof film camera that is not the smallest, but has the advantage of being smooth and having only 1 dial so it can go in and out of a pocket easily. I have a 70's era Ewa Marine bag that fits an EOS5 and zoom lens 35-70mm PZ or powerzoom. The bag is awkward and bulky, and you are limited to one setting since getting at the dials is not possible unless you open the bag. But I trust it at the beach, and that certainly means near sand.

Buy an Ikelight Litelink and another 540ez which will be effective in group portraiture, using both on manual power, one 540ez mounted on the camera bouncing off a ceiling and triggering the other 540ez on the litelink. I used this exact set up for our family group picture which I will try to attach here.

When on vacation with the family, especially in a busy setting, the wide angle zoom 20-35mm goes on our EOS5 camera with no hood for two reasons: if I need fill flash, it won't be blocked, and so that the entire thing will fit in a zing neoprene fitted case, which makes it small enough and comfortable to have hung around your neck and inside the jacket. I think that most good snapshots are taken on a moment's notice, and this fits our need. By the way, I use film, because film forces me economically to pick and choose the shots, which is probably better anyways when travelling with family. In a pocket, I keep an extra roll of film, 200E flash and Ultrapod II tripod which I will use for the traditional group family shot - which has been a little dicey in settings where they are needed most such as the inside of the train station, so just be careful. The 50mm and 70-200 have too little utility for the weight involved.

Set both strobes at their lowest setting and position them for portraiture. Take trial shots with camera in manual mode to determine the aperture where the subject in front is properly exposed, and a shutter speed where the background is still dark. You said this was for a portrait, right? Then, with the subject out of the picture, gradually increase the shutter speed duration until the lights on the tree are looking the way you want. Note that setting and the distance of flashes to subject and camera to subject. If you find that the shutter speed is too slow for portraiture because the aperture is too small, then increase the distance of the flash to the subject, which will in turn require a larger aperture and allow a correspondingly shorter shutter speed. I prefer taking portraits in manual mode because the effects will be predictable and reproducible shot after shot. I also like using similar powered flashes in manual mode at half or less power so that pictures can be taken in quick succession and not worry about capacitors recharging. Good luck, I hope this helps.

Superglue it and cover the crack with a sticker that has Canon or some obscure photo related logo. Better yet, design a logo of your business, have it reproduced at a sign shop and apply it to the hood. Apply it to your portfolios and your car as well. Think of it like what car dealers do the rear of the car. Free Advertisement!

Thank you for the responses so far. I haven't been able to log on recently, hopefully the question won't expire until it's resolved. The background was a lit ceiling with a large dinosaur. No ECF. I agree that exceeding the guide number is less an issue since the foreground subject received more flash than needed. I will scan the picture and attach when I get home.

Meter the sky and place the exposure to about 1.5 stops above the meter reading, with a shutter speed up to or near your flash sync. Then turn on your flash and place flash compensation to .5 stop under and take the picture. I had the same experience last week, we were on a ferry under a canopy resulting in heavy shadows and I wanted the statue in the background so I did exactly this with excellent results on film. I had a small 200E flash and with shutter speed of 1/200 at aperture f/22 or so, I was concerned that the flash wasn't strong enough, but it did the job just fine.

I recently took a slew of pictures while on vacation a week ago and am

disappointed with the indoor museum results. I typically use Manual mode of my

EOS 5. The setting was not terribly dim. I had a 20-35mm zoom at 20mm, speed

of 1/20 and about f/6.3 which exposed the background at 1 stop less than what

the meter suggested. Flash was a 200E, zero flash exposure compensation. I

manually selected a focus point and for good composition, I moved the camera so

the subject was a little outside of the focus point. Background was properly

exposed, but the subject was overexposed. I know the focus point was used

since the subject was in focus, but shouldn't the flash expose the subject

properly? Could I have placed the subject too far from the focus point for the

flash to work properly? How far can I go from a focus point and expect good

flash exposure? THIS is certainly the time for NEVEC.