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adam_macneil

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Posts posted by adam_macneil

  1. I just bought the Nikon 18-200 lens and I noticed that when I'm turning the

    focus ring, it (the focus ring) will continue to move even after the lens has

    stopped focusing. This happens in both directions. I've never had an AF-S lens

    before, so I don't know if this is normal or if there is a problem with my lens.

     

    Thanks

  2. If you look at the title of the folder, the person is trying to find out who took

    these photos. Maybe you should email him and tell him who you are, and

    which photos are yours, and I'm sure he will take them down if you ask.

  3. Sorin is correct in that the N65 doesn't have the ability to set the ISO

    manually. So you need DX coded canisters. If the camera doesn't detect any

    DX coding, it defaults to 100 ISO. And the flash sync speed is definitely 1/90

    sec.

  4. I went to Sigma's website and here is what they said.

     

    "Dual Focus. It is easy to hold the lens, since the focusing ring does not rotate

    during auto-focusing and yet provides adequate focusing torque of the

    focusing ring during manual focusing of the lens."

  5. As to whether you should trust the viewfinder or the infinity mark, go out and

    take a picture while trusting the viewfinder, and take a picture trusting the

    infinity mark. Hopefully that will tell you which to use in the future.

  6. In regards to your second question. The flash will still fire at any speed, but

    what happens if you exceed the sync speed, is that you will end up with only a

    small part of the frame exposed. With a camera with a focal plane shutter, the

    shutter consist of two curtains, depending on the shutter speed the second

    curtain may start moving before the first is all the way across. This creates a

    slit that is travelling across the film. If you fire the flash when there is only a slit,

    the flash will only light up that area. So the sync speed is a speed at which the

    first curtain is all the way across before the second one starts moving.

     

    Hope this helps.

  7. <html>

    <body>

    <i>In comparing the N65 fo the N80, I'm not convinced that the N80 is worth

    the extra money (someone want to convince me?)</i><br><br>

    There are all sorts of reason that I can come up with off the top of my head as

    to why the F80 is better than the F65:<br>

    <br>

    1. dual command dial interface<br>

    2. spot meter<br>

    3. viewfinder gridlines<br>

    4. 1/125th sec flash sync (as opposed to 1/90)

  8. Is there any way of un-notifying oneself from new answers to a thread OTHER

    than clicking on the link in the email.

     

    I was interested in the answers to a question that was posted. However, no

    new answers have been posted, and I'm no longer interested. But since there

    were no new answers, I have no link to un-notify myself.

     

    I would like to suggest that a link be set up on the photo.net page that would

    allow users to do this.

  9. I'm not going to tell you what brand or body to go with either. I will however tell

    you my experiences with the F65 as it relates to your question. It does have

    most of the features that you are looking for. The exception being the spot

    metering. Also, if you plan on getting into flash photgraphy, the F65 only has a

    sync speed of 1/90th.

     

    I would suggest going to a reputable camera store, and asking lots of

    questions, and also trying different brands to see how each feels in your

    hands. Finally remeber what has been stated over, and over whenever

    someone asks this sort of question: You are not only buying a camera, but are

    buying into a whole system. So take a look at what else each company offers

    in terms of lenses, lens features, and accessories such as flashes.

  10. Or Both.

     

    The built in speedlight only has coverage for up to a 28mm lens, so anything

    wider than that and you will likely get vignetting. Also, it only has a guide

    number of 12 (ISO 100, m) whereas the SB-80DX has a guide number of 38

    (ISO 100, m at 35mm) which may be why the vignetting problems at some of

    the longer focal lengths. And like Rick said, larger diameter lenses will block

    the light from the flash.

     

    BTW, somebody please let me know if I'm completely wrong and making a

    total ass of myself

  11. <html>

    <body>

    My suggestion would be to go to your local camera store and try the different

    models that you are looking at. You can ask the salesperson any questions,

    and also try out different features/intrefaces/weights/etc. You could also try

    looking <a href="http://www.bythom.com/n65.htm">here</a> It is a review of

    the F65 and also has a comparison between the F60, F65, and F80.

    </body>

    </html>

  12. I've got the F65 (Canadian version of the N65) I am quite happy with it, but I

    do have a couple of small complaints with it. It would be nice to have a spot

    meter, but it is an entry level camera, so its no big deal. However I find the one

    command dial interface to be somewhat annoying. The only other gripe I have

    is that there is no cable release available, instead you have to get the optional

    remote control. Otherwise I have been happy with the camera.

  13. I agree with the people saying get a manual camera. I am also a beginner

    and I've got the Nikon F65. It's not a bad camera, but I wish I had done a little

    bit more research first, and gotten a manual camera. Although the F65 does

    have a manual mode, I find it all too easy just to put the camera in full-auto or

    program auto mode, and let it do all the work. I also find that the single

    command dial is a real pain.

     

    Good luck, and I hope you find something you will be happy with for the years

    to come.

  14. Don't expect to see much (if any) wildlife from the road. They

    have fences all along the way to prevent animals from crossing

    the road and getting hit by vehicles.

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