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ichtys7

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  1. <p>Hello!<br>

    May I ask if anyone owned or used this manual telephoto lens made for the medium format camera Bronica,<br>

    the Bronica Zenzanon 500mm E II f/8 (not the much more expensive lens with I guess having fluorite lenses).<br>

    I do not have a longer telephoto lens than the EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM II, and I am seldom have a need,<br>

    using longer telelenses than this 300mm with the Extender 2x III but because I do have the Bronica ETRS with some lenses (40/75/150mm), I did purchased Fotodiox Pro Lens Mount Adapter - Bronica ETR (ETRC, ETRS, ETR-C, ETRSi) Lens to Canon, and to be used on my EOS bodies included also for the EOS M3.<br>

    This lens is not heavy (1 890g) with lens construction 6-7 and with closest focus distance is 8.5 m maybe this<br>

    could do a better job than my 300mm with extender.<br>

    This Zenzanon 500/8 could also be used with my mirror-less cameras and my main question is:<br>

    <strong> if the so called "sweet-spot" with this lens used on a smaller sensor, of this medium-format lens,</strong><br>

    <strong> could give a better result in the final pictures, compared to my 300 w/ 2xIII, because this Zenzanon 500mm</strong><br>

    <strong>have a native focal length that is 500mm (200 x 100% / 300 = about 67%)?</strong><br>

    <strong> </strong><br>

    I wish to find a longer telephoto lens for mainly the shoot of the moon in different stages,<br>

    and maybe also some bird photos when I am able to use a gimbal on my sturdy tripod.</p>

    <p>However the EBay prices are still representing quite much money to be invested in this lens,<br>

    that I do not know much about from practical results used on a DSLR/Mirror-less cameras,<br>

    if the result will be any better than with my EF300 w/ 2X III?<br>

    Also maybe there would be a better alternative with other 500mm lenses (Hasselblad/Mamiya/Pentax6x7 lenses)?</p>

    <p>I just do not know, how good this Zenzanon EII 500mm f/8 lens is, and how the IQ will be with this lens in <br>

    the final photo, so if anyone here have any facts or experiences regarding this lens,<br>

    I would highly appreciate you to share your view and opinion about this particular lens!<br>

    (I can either try to find a good one of this lens or just forget about this particular lens?)<br>

    Thank you so very much in advance for your help to add some light how good this manual Bronica Zenzanon E II 500mm f/8 lens is!<br>

    Best Regards,<br>

    Charl (Sweden)</p>

  2. <p>Hi Forum Readers!<br>

    <strong>About the use of the Canon Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52</strong></p>

    <p>I am a bit interested in how often you actually use this filter and in which situations you find the desirable use of the Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52 with your tele-lenses from Canon?<br /> The benefits may be the many (I am considering if this filter would be part of my equipement?) but there is also this fact of a light loss of up to 2 stops, but maybe a fast glass like EF300mm with f/2.8 would be the right lens to be equipped with this filter? Is the filter-effect affected if you are using the lens stopped down (like f/8)?<br /> <br /> I am mostly interested in the end result,what the Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52 can add to your photographs compared to photos without this filter.<br /> <br /> Anyone here who maybe like to share something, about your experiences, when you are using this filter?<br /> <br /> Wishing you all a very good new year 2014!<br /> <br /> Greetings!<br /> Charl</p>

  3. <p>Hello and thank to you Dan and Jeff for your answers! <br>

    Yes I did check out the density and the flow and even re-set all pre-sets to Adobe standard but I guess it maybe is a flaw or bug in the update itself? <br>

    I do not dare to update my Windows 7 version it the same thing will happen that I can not use the Adjustment brush anymore that is so convenient and efficient for many photos!<br>

    Thank you one more time! Appreciated your concerns!<br>

    Wishing you all the Best!<br>

    Charl </p>

  4. <p>Hi all!<br>

    My first question in this category -<br>

    Background:<br>

    Using Mac OS X Version 10.6.8 and just updated LR4.2 to the last update LR4.3.<br>

    By this update <strong><em>the Adjustment brush stopped reacting</em>!</strong><br>

    <strong><br /></strong>I tried to revert all presets to the Standard.<br>

    Tried all possibilites I could find in order to set all to standard presets. <br>

    Have anyone experienced this when you updated the LR4 to version LR4.3?<br>

    Do I need to uninstall the LR4 and reinstall to the LR4.2?<br>

    I would appreciate any help for solution!<br>

    (I have even search the ADOBE LR4 Forum without finding any advice for a solution!)</p>

    <p>Wishing you all a very nice week-end!</p>

    <p>Greetings from a snowy winter Sweden!</p>

    <p>Charl</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>Hello!<br /> Thanks for all of you who have giving time and efforts to bring some answers and have contributed to make this thread interesting!<br /> So yesterday I did the premier-first-shootings with 5D Mark III and I was almost (positively) chocked, by the smooth working of this camera (and also testing the high-level-ISO exposures after sunset in the city of Stockholm with nice results).<br /> My first impression is - why didn`t I purchase and switch earlier to use this DSLR in photography?<br /> I am still a bit astonished for; how well it is handling the different light-situations - and its truly a well-built all-rounder that is suiting perfectly into my hands.<br /> The one I got has also the newest firmware and the "light-leak" corrected. (the 6th digit in the s/n is a "4")<br /> It is a pleasure to use this DSLR.<br /> I simply have to admit that it is one thing to READ about a specific new camera, but it is quite a big difference to use it practically and in real-life-situations! Then you will KNOW in reality how/what it gives you, and not just having virtual readable facts which of course are interesting!<br /> Personally I couldn´t be more happily surprised when using this new camera, because I did not have any highly elevated expectations in first place! But honestly I am still a bit overwhelmed after using this instrument for photos!<br /> (Need to say that I think that my MarkII still is a good back-up DSLR to have in my kit!)</p>

    <p><strong>Big THANK to you all writers here - one more time!</strong></p>

    <p>Wishing you all the Best and a nice coming week-end!</p>

    <p>C</p>

  6. <p>Hello Chris Clarke!<br /> <strong>Thank you Chris</strong> for your answer here!<br>

    <br /> <strong>Congratulations to you Chris for now being a happy owner to your brand-new Canon EOS 5D Mark III!</strong><br>

    <br /> I am happy to hear about your first impressions and that the upgrade is giving you a lots of benefits!<br /> In fact this new 5D Mark III is not only slightly upgrade from the previous Mark II but inside it is almost like a complete new in using new technology and new solutions to handle every exposure!<br />The only lack I have found so far is that I can not change focusing screens to the new 5D Mark III but I have my 5D Mark II as a back-up camera and my second full-frame-DSLR. Also maybe I do not need to change the focusing screen anymore with the new Canon 5D Mark III - I have some manually handled lenses of good quality so I have used the focusing screen called "Canon <strong>Eg-S</strong> Super Precision Matte Focusing Screen" and the Super Precision Matte screen improves the ease of focusing when doing manual focus.<br>

    <br /> I use quite often wide-angle-lenses and fast lenses so I really appreciate the full frame DSLR!</p>

    <p>Wishing you Chris Happy Shootings and All the Best!</p>

    <p>Charl</p>

  7. <p>Hello and a very big humbly <strong>THANK</strong> to all of who have so generously given me good answers in my process of re-thinking about the need of a new camera body! (<strong>David Stephens, Richard Hatch, Philip Wilson, Thomas K., Peter J, JDM von Wienberg, Landrum Kelly and Robin Smith!</strong>)<br>

    I really did appreciate every answer, that you have had taken the time to write to me with your wise insights and with variety of answers and different aspects and thoughts and even advice!<br>

    Yes I do agree fully - I wish to start shooting - and after this last week-end when I was shooting with my 5DMKII and for example - of about 21 exposures of a squirrel - and only using the center-focus-point together with the 300mm without extender - the fact was that I had only one keeper with perfect focus on the eyes of the squirrel and also with small birds I had some keepers but many many was OOF. Of course when you nail the focus with 5DMKII you have a nice .CR2 file to work with but it takes a more accurate and fast and better autofocus in order to achieve more keepers when it comes to wild-life-photography and not only that - but after the sunset I also continued to photographing the night-views and then the autofocus is also important in order to get decent images!<br>

    So I am quite convinced that a new DSLR will give me hopefully more keepers to work with!<br>

    About the <strong>7D vs 5DMarkII</strong> - my experience is that I clearly see the difference in noise between the both DSLRs, even beginning at so low ISO as 200 used for the 7D. There is something with the full frame sensor files that makes them at least for me - to contain more details and better low-light details and also I can get better IQ after developing them in the little brother to Photoshop CS - the Elements10 - but I think I wish to get the LR4 as a compliment to Elements10.<br>

    (PS. Sometimes I almost are wonder if there is something "wrong" with my 7D, which I purchased brand-new (May 2011) - but my experience - is that <strong>7D works in my use, quite well in steady light conditions</strong>. Because I often read how satisfied mostly are with the 7D IQ - but I am sorry to say (because so many are happy with their 7D files and I have seen astonishing photos by 7D!) that I was quite disappointed, when I saw the images photographed long-distance-subjects with my tele-lenses (70-200 2.8 II + 300 2.8 I) - but on the other hand is my experience when it comes to close-up/macro, that I am quite satisfied - so I was thinking that it was the maybe the air condition and maybe the pollutions in the air, or the quality of the air between the camera and the long distance to the subject, that somehow affected the quality of the files (only using full RAW .CR2)/images from 7D.<br>

    For example - on one occasion I did not have the 7D with me outdoors, at the Baltic sea shores, when a quite many whopper swans was flying by in late sunset light, and I used therefore my 5DMKII with Extender 1.4xII together with EF70-200 f/4L IS USM, with remarkable good IQ, when I examine the result at home at the computer, that somehow changed my mind towards being more positively in using the full frame DSLR, even despite the fact of loosing the nice crop-factor of 1.6X without loss of f-stop! But I wish to keep my 7D because it has its place and use also!)<br>

    Wishing you all a very nice November 2012 with extraordinary happy shootings!</p>

    <p>All the Best!</p>

    <p>Charl</p>

    <p> </p><div>00b07K-502671684.jpg.892f14971d0ed9add70721b154c9dc3e.jpg</div>

  8. <p>Hello and big <strong>THANK</strong> to you all (<strong>Richard, Harry, Nathan, Robin, Landrum, Philip and JDM von Weinberg</strong>) who generously have contributed both with nice and with valued points/advice in your answers to my posting here!<br /> Much much appreciated!<br /> Wishing you all and every one a wonderful coming week-end with happy shootings and much joy in everything you are now into!<br>

    Greetings from autumn Sweden<br /> Carl</p>

  9. <p>Thank you Mark Pierlot and JDM von Weinberg for your valued points!<br>

    Yes the instruction manual is very precious to me, and even before start using a new camera has been my first priority and thing to do before I do start using my new DSLR - that is to read the whole manual side after side and then picking up the camera and to set the camera in the best functional condition out there in the field to my serve and function according to my specific needs!<br>

    There is however a learning curve with every new camera and in order to really get all the needed benefits that can be achieved it is one of the most important investments of time and effort in order get the DSLR as a complex instrument to serve you well!</p>

    <p>I read this from another forum about the difference between the Mark III and 1DX:</p>

    <p>Quote: "<em><strong>1DX give you the great benefit to give you spot metering on you focus points. This will get your wildlife shots a lot better, because sometimes you don´t have time for a second or third shot. And of course the frame rate. Thats the only things I miss on my 5D and they are only for 1D´s</strong></em>."<br>

    <br>

    So I think this is something I would appreciate also in Mark III.<br>

    <br>

    When I get the Mark III I will search out this option IF there may be some way to give a function to the shutter-button that is <strong>both locking AF A N D the Exposure from the center-focusing point</strong>!<br>

    Wishing you both a very wonderful coming week-end and happy shootings with your photographic equipement!<br>

    All the Best<br>

    <br>

    Charl<br>

    </p>

  10. <p>About the basic using of the <strong>Canon EOS 5D Mark III</strong><br>

    How can I understand the main and functional <strong>difference</strong> between manual selections of:</p>

    <p><strong>1 - Single-point-Spot-AF</strong><br /><br>

    <strong> </strong><br>

    2 - Single-point-AF</p>

    <p><strong>3 - Single-point Expansion AF</strong><br>

    <strong> </strong><br>

    4 - AF Point Expansion</p>

    <p>and with the <strong>AI Servo AF-function</strong> - which selection is the best when for example tracking <strong>BIF</strong> (Birds In Flight)?<br>

    And is the<strong> Case</strong> number five (5) or six (6) best choice to tracking a flying bird? What are you Bird Photographers using together with your Mark III DSLRs if I may ask your valued advice?</p>

    <p>I have lenses in these Groups of <strong>A, B, C</strong> and group <strong>E.</strong></p>

    <p>Another importance would be - how can I choose and <strong>LOCK</strong> the right <strong>exposure</strong> value, <em><strong>by only using the shutter-button</strong></em> and <strong>NOT the AE-Lock button</strong> in back of the camera, so it remains as I wish if I use SPOT-METERING with Single-point-Spot-AF? Is this possible? I feel that I can not really find the answer from the English manual (I am Swedish speaking natively)<br>

    Why I am asking this is, that I have noticed on my <strong>MKII</strong> when there is this option to choosing the Evaluating Exposure Measure - option, and I do "lock" the focus with the chosen center-focus-point (that I only use with my MKII) <em><strong>the MarkII also keeps that EXPOSURE VALUE which</strong></em> was in the focus-area-center and my single center-point-focus-area kind of is guiding and "locking" and keep the EV "locked" as long as I keep the shutter-button half-way pressed down and I do not release it - have you the same experience with using your MarkII and can this same option work with Mark III?<br>

    (By the way, this is <strong>not</strong> the case with my <strong>7D</strong> that will re-estimate the exposure-value, if I change the framed selection from where I have locked-the-focus in lens, by keeping the shutter-button pressed down half-way!)<br>

    I just wonder how this using-shutter-button half-way pressed-down, will work on my not yet received 5D Mark III?<br>

    Or is this working only together with the 1DX (namely the <strong>Single-point-Spot-AF with "locked" spot-exposure value)?</strong><br>

    Sorry if I am a bit vague here - I do not have the Mark III DSLR in my hands yet today but wish to start the learning curve in advance!</p>

    <p>If anyone could give me some guidance - because I really wish to know HOW to make this working and <em><strong>NOT using the AE-Lock Button</strong></em> in the back of the camera!</p>

    <p>Wishing you all All the Best!<br>

    Charl</p>

    <p> </p>

  11. <p>Hello Richard Hatch!<br>

    Thanks for your message! You are quite right! For everything there is a season, and a time for every purpose under heaven! In the morning sow thy seed, and in the evening withhold not thine hand: for thou knowest not whether shall prosper, either this or that, or whether they both <em>shall be</em>alike good!<br>

    Wishing you Richard and great week-end!<br>

    <br>

    All the Best!<br>

    Charl</p>

  12. <p>Dear Co-Canon-Photographers here,<br>

    A Question to all you here who hopefully are very happy and very satisfied owners of the newest <strong>Canon EOS 5D Mark III,</strong></p>

    <p>I would appreciate your opinion and spontaneously thoughts about if you do consider me to have done a reasonable wise choice to lately purchase the newest 5D Mark III, after months of giving this decision a constant pros and cons compared to my 5D Mark II, by making an order for the <strong>Canon EOS 5D Mark III DSLR</strong> - when I do already using (since August 2010 with thousands of exposures, mostly the older 5D Mark II side by side with the APS-C "flagship" 7D that I purchased around May 2011 for better reach to my EF300lenses?<br>

    I have been considering this purchase of the new 5D Mark III, for a long long time until now - because I just see that my recent interest in trying out the - for me demanding bird-photography (I have been a bird watcher since my early age/childhood) and also in doing some macro photography under windy circumstances, and fast moving and shy butterflies, has demanded from my full frame camera (5DMark II) a much much better and faster <strong>AUTOFOCUS ability</strong> that I think the most 5D MarkII-owners sometimes lacks from their DSLRs.</p>

    <p>I have in the process also considered the <strong>1DX</strong> for some time too - and the also reading about the <strong>1D Mark IV</strong> - but then again - also doing a lot of <strong>landscape</strong> and <strong>allround photographing,</strong> including even super-wide-angel lenses; I have come to the conclusion in which I now can find rest: that a full frame DSLR is the optimal choice compared to use instead the APS-H with crop-factor 1.3 X.</p>

    <p>So - my simple question is - do you who are here reading this question and who owns the newest Canon 5D Mark III - either pity me for such a purchase/investment?<br>

    or maybe you could perhaps instead giving me at least a small congratulation, to the newest technology and overall benefits by being soon (God willing) a new owner to a brand new Canon EOS 5D Mark III with the "light-leak" issue solved, during this month of November 2012 AD?</p>

    <p>....or should I have waited instead to purchase the coming new DSLR´s, from Canon instead or even purchase the <strong>new 6D</strong> to start deliveries during the December 2012, or even going all the way to purchase the last <strong>1DX</strong>?</p>

    <p>(The next wish-purchase will be one of the new super-tele-lenses in order to have the right equipement for wildlife and bird photography - and therefore I will need a better AUTOFOCUS function also from a decent fullframe DSLR from Canon !)</p>

    <p>So - do you give my thumbs up? or maybe thumbs pointing more horizontally? or maybe even having the thumb pointing all the way down, for my decision to buy the newest 5D Mark III, with for example more quiet DSLR by using the silent mode in nature or in churches etc and other nice things to be used that is NOT in the older version of 5D Mark II?</p>

    <p>.....still feeling a bit ...semi-un-sure about my order from today!</p>

    <p>Wishing you all - All the Best!</p>

    <p>Charl</p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>Hello Dear Fellow Photographers here!<br /> May I ask if anyone has already maybe tested this CARBON based NEW SIRUI PH-20 GIMBAL HEAD vs Wimberley II<br /> <br />I would appreciate any thoughts or experiences about this Sirui PH-20 - what I do not know is if the ball-bearings are made of high-end stainless steel parts? Maybe the Wimberley is better internally built? I could not find out all the specs yet.</p>

    <p><strong>Product Highlights:</strong><br /> Strong <strong>Carbon Fiber</strong>/Aluminum Gimbal Head<br />Supports Up to 40 lb, (20kg)<br /><strong>Weighs Only 2.4 lb</strong><br />Reduced Vibrations Due to Carbon Fiber<br />Better Tolerance for Temperature Change<br /><strong>Arca-Compatible Quick Release System</strong><br />Quick Release Plate Included<br />Tilts From +150 to -60 Degrees<br />Ideal for Using Long Telephoto Lenses<br /> and of course one additional high light would maybe be the PRICE - in US = Price: $529.95 = (BH)<br /> <br />Thank you for any opinions about this relatively new item Sirui PH-20 Gimbal Head<br /> All the Best!<br /> Charl from Sweden Europe</p>

    <p>PS. You can check out more here on this link:</p>

    <p>http://www.sirui-photo.us/Sirui/Sirui-PH20-GimbalHead.html</p>

  14. <p>Hello Dear Fellow Photographers here!<br>

    May I ask if anyone has already maybe tested this CARBON based NEW SIRUI PH-20 GIMBAL HEAD vs Wimberley II<br>

    <br />I would appreciate any thoughts or experiences about this Sirui PH-20 - what I do not know is if the ball-bearings are made of high-end stainless steel parts? Maybe the Wimberley is better internally built? I could not find out all the specs yet.</p>

    <p><strong>Product Highlights:</strong><br>

    Strong <strong>Carbon Fiber</strong>/Aluminum Gimbal Head<br />Supports Up to 40 lb, (20kg)<br /><strong>Weighs Only 2.4 lb</strong><br />Reduced Vibrations Due to Carbon Fiber<br />Better Tolerance for Temperature Change<br /><strong>Arca-Compatible Quick Release System</strong><br />Quick Release Plate Included<br />Tilts From +150 to -60 Degrees<br />Ideal for Using Long Telephoto Lenses<br>

    and of course one additional high light would maybe be the PRICE - in US = Price: $529.95 = (BH)<br>

    <br />Thank you for any opinions about this relatively new item Sirui PH-20 Gimbal Head<br>

    All the Best!<br>

    Charl from Sweden Europe</p>

  15. <p>Hello!</p>

    <p>Here is a Swedish Canon FDn 200mm f/4 Macro for only SEK 2.800 in mint condition!</p>

    <p>http://www.blocket.se/stockholm/Canon_FD_200mm_F4_Makro__Macro__Objektiv_42897297.htm?ca=11&w=3</p>

    <p>Check it out!<br /> 1US Dollar is about 7 SEK!</p>

    <p>Cheers<br /> Charl Sweden</p>

    <p>PS. I have one myself which I use with my 5DMkII and 7D with a lens-less simple adapter but maybe I will invest in EdMika real adapter in order to gain infinity in focus!</p>

     

  16. <p>To all Forum readers/contributors and Photographers here!<br /><br />Please could anyone have some good advice to me!<br>

    I do have some serious plans to do one upgrade of my set of DSLR-Bodies!<br>

    <br />But I feel quite unsure to make the very best and balanced decision if maybe choose the older (there are some mint-condition for sale now) of the <strong>1DMk4</strong> or go all for the <strong>new version of 5DMk3</strong> or maybe going all the way to the newest <strong>1Dx</strong>?<br /><br />Main subjects are:<br /><br />* Macro (flowers in nature)<br />* Landscape/skyscape<br />* Birds also BIF and animals<br />* Low-light-conditions in the nature with flowers, birds, landscapes<br /><br />(I already have some good primes and they are mainly only the so called Canon "L"-lenses which I use together with my 7D and 5DMk2.)<br /><br />But I do also have additional plan to purchase either the new version of EF 500mm f/4L IS USM II or maybe rather (when using full frame) the Canon EF 600mm f/4L IS USM II also wish to upgrade my EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM Version I to the version II because of the better MFD and 4-step IS and two flourite-elements making it very good with my Extenders EF 1.4x III /2x III.<br /><br />I prefer hand held wildlife photography and walking around in every kind of environment in the nature and I still do not even have a monopod but yes I do have sturdy tripods (Gitzo systematic 6xCarbon) but no Gimbal head yet for the tele lenses.<br /><br />That is me in a nutshell right now.<br>

    <br />Thanks for spontaneous thoughts and if you have time and opportunity for your valued advice!<br /><br />Best Wishes!<br>

    <br />Charl</p>

  17. <p>Hello Rupa Sztraka!<br>

    Maybe this would be something for you to consider?<br>

    The Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L is wide and in factual almost equal to about 10mm.<br>

    Using the shift function, you can take a series of three images, that are overlapping by 30% or so, and then merge them in photoshop. You will have an effective sensor size of something like 48mm x 36 mm( depending on the direction of the shift) and with that size sensor you will still have a 17mm lens! You are effectively getting medium format sensor resolution with a 35 mm camera ( Once you merge the images together) These files have an angle of view on a 35 mm camera, that is equal to about a 10 mm lens, with no fisheye effect and little distortion unless you are close to things. This lens will give you images that will amaze you. The perspective (in these merged files) is real but unreal. It is unlike anything else.<br>

    -------------------<br>

    //Charl</p>

  18. <p>Hello all!<br /><br />Please may I turn with this question to this forum if here would be maybe someone with the valued experiences on this Forum who can give me some nice advice about choosing either,<br /><br />the <strong>Arca Swiss Monoball Ball and Socket P0</strong> or<br /><br /><strong>Acratech GV2 Gimbal-head-type, or <br /><br />the new Arca Swiss Monoball Z1, that is lighter than the older or first verison,<br /></strong><br />to be used with at least a full frame DSLR <br /><em><strong><br />Canon EOS 5DMK2 equipped with the lens Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM with either EF Extender 1.4X III or EF Extender 2X III and later on - Lord willing - I wish to also add the new Canon EF 600mm f/4L IS USM II (unsure of the EF 500mm f/4L IS USM II would do with full frame as well as the now much lighter new EF600mm II</strong></em>?<br /><br />The tripod that I already have is a:<br /><br /><strong>Gitzo GT3541 XLS,<br /></strong>but now at the present time equipped with the old first version I and therefore quite <strong>too heavy</strong> Arca Swiss Monoball B1 with quick-set-release that I wish switch over to be used together with the Acra Swiss Mono Ball Socket P0 - IF I purchase in that and not in the Acratech GV2?<br />I think that Wimberley Gimbal Head II, is far too heavy for my taste to carry around with the added other photographic equipement! Also I mainly walk and transporting all with my Mountain Bike along trails and roads!<br /><br />I wish to have <strong>a light outdoor-tripod-head-setup</strong> to be able to take outdoors for long all-day-walks - I am not Superman!<br /><br />So dear skilled Photographers here on Photo dot net - I would very much appreciate your experiences in this field of choosing right out-door-equipement that is light and sturdy with the base of this Gitzo Tripod GT3541 XLS!<br /><br />Thanks in advance and may you all have a wonderful autumn season with great occasions for photographing!<br /><br />Wishing you all the very best!<br /><br />//Charl <br />(Sweden)</p>
  19. <p>Thank you all so very much for your contributions and thoughts!<br /> To Jamie Robertson - about - quote "If you are considering buying 4 adapters for those 4 lenses at $140 per adapter then my advice would be to forget the idea (and the hassle of conversion) and spend the same money on a decent mirrorless compact camera." - you are quite right - I would only do one conversion to one lens - the best of my set of lenses - or maybe TWO - but four EdMika Lens Adapters can only be motivated for investment - if the FDn lenses are really unique and very very good in use - I can think that the most interesting of my lenses right now is the Canon FDn 200mm f/4 Macro 1:1 - because there is no equivalent to this focal lengt right now as an EF-lens macro option. This native macro lens is also unique because it reaches the 1:1 magnification with only the loss of one f-stop - but in fact the internal focal lengt is will be something around 140mm at the minimum distance of focus - thus the single f-stop loss! The weight is also only 830g and it has a native tripod-collar-ring and a on-lens-metal-embedded-hood! Also - the adoption of a two group focusing system in the 200mm Macro lens has reduced barrel extension to a minimum although one would expect an optimum solution with optical solution such as Internal Focusing system be employed for non extension or rotation of the lens barrel. The maximum extension in this case is 38.6mm for recording images at life-size magnification. The lens construction is 9 elements in 6 groups. Adoption of a unique focusing mechanism, using only the first and second groups, significantly suppresses aberration fluctuations caused by focusing. I found focusing ring to be really well designed: you can swiftly focus between 1.5 m and infinity with 1/4 turn, when you use this lens as a standard 200 mm tele and with a 1 1/4 turn between 1.5 and .6 m for accurate focusing when in macro mode.<br /> Anyway - it is a nice advice to use it in mirror-less compact camera.</p>

    <p>By the way a nice photo-link to one solution like you said - is seen here on this link: " Canon New FD Macro 200mm F4  (Product Year : 1981) + Panasonic DMC-G1

    <p><br /> Thank you all once again for your interesting thoughts here!<br /> I will carefully consider what to do and what not to do!<br /> Wishing you all a very good new coming week!<br /> All the Best!<br /> //Charl<br /> </p>

  20. <p>Dear Fellow Canon EOS photographers who maybe still have some of nice old FDn-lenses!</p>

    <p>I wonder if anyone has tested the new EdMika FDn-EOS-A Lens Adapters?<br>

    (EdMika Canon FDn-EOS adapter kit 14mm 15mm 17mm 24mm 28mm 35mm 50mm 100mm 135mm)<br>

    I have the FDn 14mm f/2.8L and also some other L-lenses.<br>

    I wonder if it is worth to invest in this adapter - but maybe my primarily question is - are the FDn lenses good enough to still be used?<br>

    I have for example<br>

    ° Canon FDn 80-200mm f/4L, it utilizes fluorite (artificial crystal) and UD glass lens element to minimize chromatic aberration. It also has a macro mechanism for shooting as close as 0.95m throughout the entire focal length range.<br>

    ° Canon FDn 50-300mm f/4.5L with the use of Canon’s original 4-group zoom optical system and UD glass lens element featuring low dispersion and low index of refraction offers correction of aberrations and excellent definition in all ranges despite being a high magnification zoom lens with a focal length of 300mm. The weight is somehow heavy about 1.8kg but quite sturdy builded.<br>

    ° Canon FDn 200mm f/4 Macro 1:1 with only loss of one f-stop.<br>

    What do you think of using these and getting focus to infinitive with EdMika´s coming new Lens Adapters and the possibility to use aperture?<br>

    <br>

    Thank you for your thoughts!<br>

    <br>

    Wishing you all a nice week-end and fall!<br>

    <br>

    Charl</p>

  21. <p>Hello all to the Canon Thursday Photo 2012 #38!<br>

    This is my first posting to this Forum!<br>

    The <strong>Lesser Black-backed Gull</strong> (<em>Larus fuscus</em>) Yesterday (Thursday 20th September 2012) I almost by accident came close to this gull but I did only have my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L on my full frame 5DMK2. So I did slowly approach this gull and was able to capture this photo while its chicken was approaching and begging for some food! From color originally converted to black and white.<br /> Place: Evert Taubes Terass, Stockholm City, Sweden about 5:40P.M. yesterday.<br /> Wishing you all happy shoots!<br /> Charl</p><div>00aqWp-497267584.jpg.f41378ecbe347d7888760546cf9ac30e.jpg</div>

  22. <p>Wishing to bring a special thank to you David Stephens for your very accurate description of what I probably did experience at the occasion when I was photographing the plovers with the 7D.<br /> As I said earlier I have had also good experiences with reasonable good IQ in other type of photography with the 7D but if there is no sunshine and the light is a bit low it seems to me that there is this out-of-focus problem with 7D that makes many fewer number of "keepers".<br>

    <br /> I am now only having in use the Canon EOS 5MK2 with both EF 1.4x III and EF 2X III combined with my EF 300 f/2.8 IS USM, and even hand-held with quite a good rate of keepers and then using only the center-spot-focus-point.<br>

    <br /> I think the problem with 7D is showing up during the low-light conditions, and also that the focusing will not be spot-on and giving the tack sharp images to work with in post processing/editing.<br>

    <br /><strong>Big thank again to you all</strong> who has so nicely contributed so much help to me - and again I am sorry that I do not have the actual photos available on this computer - not being at home for the moment.</p>

    <p>Thank you very much for your valued advice and comments and contributes here!<br /> All the Best to you all!</p>

    <p>//Charl</p>

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