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frank_bunnik

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Posts posted by frank_bunnik

  1. <p>Thank you all so much for your advice.<br>

    Jairo, your travel guide will certainly help. I read it quickly and I saw some very good information already. I will print it and read it more thoroughly.<br>

    I am afraid Yosemite will be too far away. But this will probably not be our one and only visit to the states. It is indeed a lot of red rock we now plan to visit so maybe we change our route and include Death Valley. Zabriskie point is also one of those places I long to visit. Something to sort out this weekend.<br>

    After Vegas we will be visiting friends in New York for a week so I plan to bring my micro 4/3 camera instead of the Canon 5d3 with the 3 TS-E lenses I normally use for landscpes.<br>

    My widest micro 4/3 lens at the moment is a 34mm equivalent so I will get a wider lens. Would you advice a 24mm equivalent or would 28mm be wide enough? </p>

  2. <p>Thank you all for your kind advice. My wife and I did a lot of trekking in the Himalaya, both in Nepal and India. The highest point we reached was somewhere above 5,800 meters so we have expierence with regards to trekking. Our daughter alas less so.<br>

    My goal is to photograph some of those famous landscapes but some less crowded places would also be nice and it is a family trip of course where I can go photographing a few hours a day from time to time. <br>

    We have done some planning and our itinerary is probably something like:<br>

    - Grand Canyon, 2 nights;<br>

    - Monument Valley ... (photo tour)<br>

    - Page (2 nights) <br>

    - Bryce Canyon<br>

    - Zion NP<br>

    - back to Vegas<br>

    Would 2 nights in Monument Valley be enough or would you advice an extra day? <br>

    I know the drive from Monument Valley to Page is short but we thought that when we arrive in Page we can do a family tour of the slot canyon(s) and the next day I could do a photo tour of the canyon(s). <br>

    Zion looks nice for some walks. <br>

    If you have any advice on this route, please let me know. Any advice is greatly appreciated. </p>

  3. <p>Thank you all for the quick and extensive information and good advice. I saw that Valley Fire state park is not far from Vegas and the pictures I saw of that park looked great. Monument Valley is high on my list too, being a lifelong fan of western movies... <br>

    Thanks also for the warning of the snakes. Here in the Netherlands there are hardly any dangerous animals so it is easy to forget. </p>

  4. <p>In the last week of April and the first week of May 2015, my wife, my 8 year old daughter and myself will be travelling to Las Vegas to visit some National Parks. This will be our first visit to the USA and we would like some information on a nice roadtrip for 2 weeks, visiting some National Parks. We do not want to travel every other day, we prefer to spend a few days in each park. Death Valley and the Grand Canyon are on our list, but can someone with knowledge of the area advice us on a nice route te drive? Maybe it is possible to include Yosemite?<br>

    Of course we need to prepare ourselves more but to get some ideas would be really helpful. <br>

    Thanks in advance, Frank<br>

    <a href="http://www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com">www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com</a></p>

  5. <p>I have a 5d3 and the Canon 1.2 50mm L and I am glad I have autofocus because focussing manually with the shallow dept of field and the bright ground glass would be a pain.<br>

    I do not know if you can change the groundglass of the 6d. If not, I would think twice about manually focussing this lens.</p>

    <p>The 1.2 is my favorite lens, especially used wide open. It is fantastic. </p>

  6. <p>I own an 5d mark III and use a TS-E 90mm lens for portraits. This lens has no autofocus. The focus confirmation dot in the viewfinder works perfectly however. Just turn the focussing ring on the lens until the confirmation dot lights up.<br>

    I made several portraits lately in India with this combination and each is perfectly sharp.<br>

    Some examples:<br>

    <a href="http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h60f220e6">http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h60f220e6</a><br>

    <a href="http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h60d391e4">http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h60d391e4</a><br>

    <a href="http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h634bc41a">http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h634bc41a</a></p>

  7. <p>I would also advice you to use a higher iso and close the aperture a bit. I have and Eos 5d3 and the higher iso's are quite clean and very well useable. the photo in the link below was recently made at 800 iso with a 90mm TS-E lens af f/4. When I look at the raw file there is not a trace of noise to be seen and if you told me it was shot at 100 iso, I would believe it also.<br>

    <a href="http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h60f220e6">http://frankbunnik.zenfolio.com/p977299142/h60f220e6#h60f220e6</a></p>

  8. <p>Thanks for all your advice. Laurentiu, thanks for the link, it is very handy. When looking at this link, I would say that the 5d3 is best (smoothest and sharpest), then comes the OMD (difference with 5d3 is there but not very big difference), then the GX1 and lastly the E-P3. Great that the link makes it possible to compare 4 cameras at once.<br>

    <br /> I like mft for it's small format cameras and good optics that are not very expensive. Also the possibilty to use "creative lenses".<br /> I normally always shoot in raw. I will see what the E-P5 is going to cost when it will be announced later this week.</p>

  9. <p>So, I have a dillema.<br>

    I have an Eos 5d mark 3 with a 24-70L II lens. Excellent camera and lens but a bit big to walk around with all day. So I have been thinking to buy a micro 4/3 camera. I can buy a mint GX1 for 250 euro, a mint E-P3 for 300 euro. An EVF viewfinder for each camera costs 200 euro. Add the 14, 25 and 45mm lenses or the new Oly 17mm and the 45mm, and I would spend about 1.300 euro.<br>

    I could get the OMD but that is about 500 euro more expensive and I like the style of the GX1 and Pen more. I could of course wait a month and get the E-P5. I guess that would also cost me about 500 euro more but I get a more modern camera and sensor than either the GX1 or E-P1 can offer.<br>

    Also I am a bit in doubt. I have a fullframe camera. Can micro 4/3 compete in image quality in prints up to about 90 x 60 cm?<br>

    What are your opinions?<br>

    Thanks for your advice, Frank<br>

    <a href="http://www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com">www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com</a></p>

  10. <p>I have searched the internet but except for 1 website, I could find no informattion to my following question.<br>

    How difficult is it to focus the Eos 5d mark 3 with (Zeiss) manual lenses while looking at the ground glass? Does it pop into focus or do you need the confirmation of the green dot in the viewfinder? I know I could use live view but that is not what I want.<br>

    I have the 5d3 and the 24-70 L mark II. The lens is great but it is big. Sometimes I would like something smaller so I have my eyes on the Zeiss 2.0 35mm, the 2.0 50mm MP and the Zeiss 2.0 100mm MP. I have no interest in the 1.4 lenses.<br>

    If anyone who is currently using Zeiss lenses on his/hers Eos 5d3 could inform me, I would be very grateful.<br>

    Thanks, Frank</p>

  11. <p>Peter Walnes has one for sale:<br>

    <a href="http://www.peterwalnes.com/component/option,com_virtuemart/page,shop.browse/category_id,40/Itemid,1/">http://www.peterwalnes.com/component/option,com_virtuemart/page,shop.browse/category_id,40/Itemid,1/</a><br>

    He is a reputable seller who usually has lower prices then most other sellers. I have bought several items (cameras and lenses) from him and I would not hesitate to buy again.<br>

    Good luck, Frank<br>

    <a href="http://www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com">www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com</a></p>

  12. <p>I have owned an SWC an although I really liked the quality of the lens and the square format, I found the square limiting with this ultra wide lens. In my opinion the SWC has 1 flaw and that is that it lacks shift. In order to avoid converging lines, you have to keep the camera horizontal and thus the horizon will always be in the middle of the image, forcing you to crop.<br>

    I now use a Cambo Wide (previous model) with 65, 90 and 120mm Schneider lenses. These lenses are of superb quality. The 65 and 90 are of Biogon design. For instance, in the colour landscape gallery on my website is an image called "autumn tree". Attached to a branch of the diagonal tree in the foreground is a spider web. I did not see it when I made the photo and on the upload you will probably not see it, but on the scan you can clearly see each wire of the web.<br>

    With this camera I can shoot 4x5 inch and 6x12, 6x9 or 6x7 cm. Thus avoiding the limitation a 6x12 camera will also have. The 65 and 90mm offer shift upwards and downwards.<br>

    I hope this helps, could luck with your choice,<br>

    Frank<br>

    <a href="http://www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com">www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com</a></p>

  13. <p>The 203 and 205 models do have built in metering. No need to buy a metering prism for those cameras although with the prism, the metering result can be seen better than with the folding hood.<br>

    With regards, to Rollei electronics. I once bought a brand new Rollei 6003. It stopped working within one hour. Had to sent it back to Germany, camera was gone for 3-4 weeks. Shortly after that, the shutter in the 150mm lens I had stopped working. After that, I went to Hasselblad. Never had 1 problem with that brand and all was bought used. Every word of this is true.</p>

  14. <p>Remember, your Hasselblad 500 is a 100% mechanical camera. Repairs will not be a problem for years to come. The Rollei 6000 series is 100% electronic. I seriously doubt if it is possible to have these repaired if the electronics failed right now. The Rollei's work with an expensive big dedicated rechargeble battery. Saying big, do you realise that these Rollei's are big camera's? Bigger than your Hasselblad. Bigger magazines, bigger batteries (of course since the Hasselblad does not use a battery, bigger focussing hood. If you want to buy used, there is an abundance of used Hasselblad gear, often at nice prices. Used Rollei 6000 gear is rarer and often more expensive that similar Hasselblad products.<br>

    My advise is to buy a good meter with a build in spotmeter like the Sekonic meters and keep your Hasselblad.<br>

    All the best, Frank<br>

    <a href="http://www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com">www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com</a></p>

  15. <p>A couple of years ago I had a 1969 SWC. Excellent little camera. After using it for a while, I concluded that this camera design had one flaw. It lacked lens rise/drop. Setting the camera up so you don't get any converging lines means your horizon will always be in the middle and you have to crop. I now use a Cambo Wide (older model). The Schneider-kreuznach lenses it uses are by no means less than the Zeiss Biogon, in fact the Super-Angulon lenses are of Biogon design. It shoots 4x5 inch or with the correct roll film magazine 6x12, 6x9, 6x7 or 6x6 cm. To me it is a much more versatile camera than the SWC. You can get a Cambo Wide combo with 2 or 3 lenses for about the same money as the 903.<br>

    By the way, is there any reason to buy a 903? My SWC had some light signs of use. I paid about US$ 850 for it. Sold it with some profit. The lens lacked t* coating but was tack sharp and had excellent contrast.</p>

  16. <p>The S is a model without movements. Good for portraits but less for landscapes/architecture. The lenses are indeed superb. I think the GX680III is the best medium format ever made. The films is automatically rolled up to the first frame and after the last frame it winds the film up. The mirror is very well damped, better than Hasselblad. You can handhold it while using movements. What other camera can do that?</p>
  17. <p>I had the VH-R. The quality of the camera is excellent but the camera is heavy for it's size. Not much lighter than the Linhof Master Technika I now use. Since weight is almost the same, it makes more sense to use a 4x5 camera. With a 4x5 camera you can shoot 4x5 or 6x9, 6x7, 6x12 and now even 6x17. More versatile therefore.</p>
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