ben_hopson

I would try waxing the wood, but would exercise caution using other types of lubricants. I have an SV45U2 and don't really mind the stiff springs. I guess I have gotten used to the way it feels. I also have a Deardorff 8X10 and sliding a holder in it is silky smooth.

Both the Tachihara and Ebony are fine cameras. Being basically a light tight box, either is capable of producing beautiful images. I have the Ebony SV45U2 and love it. My lenses range from 90 to 450mm and I have no problem using any of them with the bellows draw on the Ebony. Like others have stated, the bellows length is one of the differances in the two cameras and that only becomes an issue if you plan on using lenses longer than 300mm. The build quality is top notch on my Ebony. It is very solid, stable and smooth. If you can, try looking at both before deciding. The differance in cost would pay for a few lenses and the accessories needed for the move to large format photography.

Good luck with whatever camera you end up with. Large format is great!

 

Larry, ("However, a nut came loose from mine during the second day of a photo workshop in Oregon.") I remember when the Tachi nut came loose. If memory serves, you found something to replace it and were able to continue making images.

Mark, I have the SV45U2. The U2 comes with a fresnel-no cut corners. The front tilt and rise are controlled seperatly. The focusing mechanism, both front and rear are smooth all the way out. There are adjustment screws that allow compensation for humidity expansion or contraction. I have never had to adjust mine and have had the camera at Death Valley and in the wet Pacific North West. It would be best if you could manage to see and handle one before spending the $ on an Ebony. Good luck

Ben

http://www.skgrimes.com/lensboards/index.htm

They may be able to provide what you need. No idea how much it will cost though.

Good luck!

If I understand your question correctly I would not be concerned about the location of the hole in the lensboard. I assume that you are using an Ebony board or a generic board for the Ebony. I have the SV45U2 and just zero everything out using the marks provided for that purpose. Never a problem.

Tim, If weight is no issue for you and the price is right, I don't think you would be dissapointed with the lens. It is very sharp. I have both the 110mm SS XL and the Nikkor SW 90mm 4.5 and am reluctant to part with either.

 

Ben

http://www.charlespfarmer-photo.com/

 

Chuck Farmer has a workshop comming up in May - Lone Pine and the Eastern Sierra. Have a look at his web site and the workshop schedule.

 

I attended the Lone Pine workshop last spring and thoroughly enjoyed it. Great location, instruction, participants and presentations.

http://listings.ebay.com/pool2/plistings/list/all/category30076/index.html?from=R11

 

The above url is for the eBay large format lens page. There are currently seven pages of lenses listed. I see that there is a Nikkor 180mm on the first page. I didn't even look at the listing, just saw the heading.

http://www.gnassgear.com/home/home.cfm

 

Try Gnassgear, Jason does make lens pouches. Maybe one will fit your needs.

If you are using a 4X5 the Epson 3200 will fill your needs for web scanning nicely. You can also achieve some good prints from the 3200. If you are only scanning for the web you can get by with a much less expensive scanner, but if you will be printing the 3200 is IMHO worth the cost.

 

Good luck,

Olalla, WA. I fight traffic twice a day crossing the Narrows Bridge to and from work, but I love it!

I strongly agree that announcements and information about Large Format workshops, free or not is of value to many LF forum visitors.

 

I would not like to see items for sale posted.

Russell,

Michael's suggestion of finding someone to help you with the basics really is a good one if possible. A good workshop is another option.

 

It is rather dark looking through the ground glass, but if you use a good dark cloth and keep as much ambient light out as possible, you should be able to see well enough to compose and focus. It helps to let your eyes adjust for a moment when you first go under the cloth. If you have a Poloroid holder it may benefit you to set up outside in a bright area and try some simple subjects to practice focussing on. The Poloroid film lets you see instantly the results of your effort.

 

Good luck, hang in there!

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/

 

Andrew, the above site is a good starting point to search for answers to beginners questions. Also look through the archives here on the large format forum.

 

One good book on large format photography is: "Using the View Camera" by Steve Simmons.

 

You should be able to outfit yourself with a good 4X5 camera, lens or two and necessary gear within your budget, but take the time to do some reading about large format photography to get an idea of what will best suit your needs before spending your money.

 

To answer your question about macro with large format, Yes accomplished through bellows extension.

 

There are many good meters to pick from. Mine is a Pentax 1 degree digital spotmeter.

 

Good luck,

 

Ben

My SS 110XL is it for me.

I see that the Gnass Gear site is up now.

Charles Farmer has a workshop scheduled for Lone Pine and the Eastern Sierra May 3-8. http://www.charlespfarmer-photo.com/

Forrest, after seeing your post I checked my own new 110XL and find that I do not see exposed blades at 5.6. They are concealed right at the 5.6 setting. Perhaps the scale is a little off on your lens.

Good luck. The 110XL is a great lens!

Ooops, I see you found it.

There is one on ebay now.

 

Good luck.

"Happy New Year To All, and To All Good Light!" In 2003.

 

Ben in WA, (Puget Sound area)

Thanks for the suggestions. Since I already have the EXT-11 dedicated cable, I think I will get the NE-2D module from B&H and see how it works. For $32 it is worth trying it out on the F4.

 

Ben

I just bought an F4s and am not sure if my flash will function

properly with it. I have a Sunpak 555 and have searched for

information on the module that is necessary for TTL operation.

Sunpak makes one with "focus assist" and one without (NE-2D). Up

until now I have only shot manual (F2A) and very little flash. Any

suggestions on how to make camera flash combination work will be

appreciated. If this combo is not feasable, which speedlite would be

good for the F4?

 

I have one AF lens, the 35-105 which came with the camera. The other

lenses I have are all AI.

Thanks for any advice,

Ben

Calumet Photo will also do the test for film speed, for $20.00. You do the exposures and processing and send the film to them and they will in turn send you the resulting EI. If you would like to see what their process is go to calumet.com and do a search on Film Test. There is only one listed.

 

This is only one of possibly many options available.

 

Good luck.

I use a 135 APO Sironar S on my Traditional with plenty of

movements. I also have a 90, but with the standard bellows it is

limited to just a little tilt. I don't have anything between so I

can not comment on the shortest focal length with moderate

movements. I would also be interested to hear if the 110XL has room

for movements without compressing the standard bellows too tightly.