charlesshupe

I really like my Gitzo 1224 with the Acratech UBH. I have seen many users with carbon legs

that have the locking mechanisms twist because of their (too) smooth surface. It is light,

and it is a lot cheaper than CF legs. Put the savings in the RRS camera and lens plates.

 

I am fortunate to live close to a camera store that has all the major brands. I used

everyone like I was in the field. I actually ended up bleeding using the Manfrotto legs.

Gitzo won hands-down.

 

I put tennis racquet tape on my Gitzo upper legs. It both insulates and adds padding. The

padding helps because I walk with my tripod over my shoulders with my camera attached.

I see time and again people recommending the 1300 series, but I think this is way overkill.

I used my 1200 series with my Mamiya 6x7 II MF outfit, which weighs about 4 x's heavier

than 35mm gear. <a href="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/1302600-lg.jpg">View This</

A> to see a picture of the tripod and Mamiya in action.

 

Regards,

Charlie

I chose the XT over the 20D so I could get the 17-40/4 L. I like the size and weight of the XT. With the rebates going on now, you can get TRIPLE rebates with one body, one lens and one printer. YES, THAT'S RIGHT. Buy the printer on the list for $179, and get a rebate that's more than the cost of the printer alone. That's a no brainer.

Paul, I want to refer you to the images in <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=277857">Helpful Hints</A>. Currently I use a relatively inexpensive <a href="http://www.bogenimaging.us/fileindexednew/module2/item/file0001994.gif">Gitzo 1224</A> and <a href="http://www.acratech.net/images/ballhead.jpg">Acratech Ballhead</A> with my SF (35mm) and MF gear. I swear by the sliding dovetail "Arca-Swiss" system for the mounting plates, especially the ones by <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/index.html">Really Right Stuff</A>. I believe these companies offer a great balance between quality, price and convenience. Contact me if you have any questions - I live 10 miles from 3 major photography retailers.

What's wrong with your 70-200/4 ? It's optically great, and very light. It's my walk-about/any occasion/ lens of choice for my SF gear.

CB...Kodak states that the grain of the UC400 is equivalent to that of their 160 speed films. Why would they come out with it in 160?

Are you serious? You're complaining about a MOVING SUBJECT not appearing sharp? Looking thru a dim postage sized viewfinder to critically focus on a moving subject to test lens sharpness at wide open aperture is, ok I'll be nice, not a wise decision.

Is it me, or are those rectangle. I thought hassies negs were square.

I think they are a form of <a href="http://www.harmonic-drive.com/principle_of_operation.html">"harmonic drive"</a> motors. Again, it is only a guess. Many of the semiconductor manufacturing tools utilize this technology.

I did a search (top of every photo.net page) for "L Bracket" and found information for Really Right Stuff and Kirk Enterprises. Using Google would have led you to <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/index.html">here</a> and <a href="http://www.kirkphoto.com/Welcome.html">here</a>.<br><br>Going to the RRS site, you would have found this <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/media/full_size/b52L.jpg">L Plate 52</a> for the EOS-3 with booster, or this <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/media/full_size/b41L_bot.jpg">L Plate 41</a> for the EOS-3 without booster.

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1302600&size=lg">Click here</a> to see an image of a 2 Series (G1224)Gitzo Tripod with a medium format camera. I use it in the field as shown and have not had any problems yet.<br><br>

The F100 and 300/2.8 weigh only 7.6 lbs, so you will be ok with any 2 or 3 series. The higher you go in the line, the sturdier they get - but also the heavier they get. I prefer the aluminum over the carbon fiber. The twist knobs on the CF need more torque applied for a secure grip. I borrowed a friend's CF Explorer once - and only once. I would pull my hair out if I had to use that thing every day.<br><br>If you decide on the 3 Series, I recommend the "component" model. It allows you to use a solid center for a more solid connection, or you can add a center column when you think the situation would call for it.<br><br>Do not forget a ballhead and Arca-Swiss style camera and lens plates. I like the <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1283223&size=md">Acratech ballhead</a> and <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1296642&size=md">RRS plates</a>. Good luck, and have fun:)

You do not mention your concern for the full frame sensor. Is it a perceived image quality issue? Is it the cropping factor ratio of 1:1.6? I just got home from a Digital Solutions Workshop and Tradeshow. I got to play with the 1DS and the 10D. The 10D had the optional battery pack. It was very nice - not too heavy at all - considering it is SS inside with Mag skins. On display was an identical image - I believe it was a 30x40 - printed from a Hassleblad 5xx (120), Hassleblad H1 with DCS Pro Back, Canon 1D, 1DS, D60 and the new 10D. I prefered all the digital images over the MF Hassy at that print size. I could only tell a very small difference between the 1DS and 10D image in the smallest of details, and I had to really hunt. Remember, I was viewing a 30x40 image at about 9 inches from the print. What I am saying is there is no need to wait. Jump in!

Learning to take good pictures without your flash would help you even more.

For all your EOS flash inquiries, please start <a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/">here</a>. Courtesy of NK Guy.

<A href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh1.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=RequiredAccessoriesActivator__Aproduct_html___186247___CATMRA___REG___CatID=-274___SID=F4041664640">This</A> is the white version of tripod ring A. It is called Tripod Ring A (W).<BR><A href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh1.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=RequiredAccessoriesActivator__Aproduct_html___211436___CATMRA200___REG___CatID=-274___SID=F4041664640">This</A> is the black version of ripod ring A. It is called Tripod Ring A (B). <BR><BR>You can ignore the verbage concerning the (B) version on the B&H page of it being only for a certain lens. Many on this site use the (B) version on the 70-200/4.

I'm a dork and always seem to go against the flow of a lot of posts. I would recommend using the camera for a few months before buying a flash. Learn how to control your images with different fstop/shutter speed combinations. Shoot Ilford Delta 3200 b&w if you need to. After you gain control of that wonderful camera with what appears to be a fairly fast prime 50, and decide you need a flash for xyz circumstances, then get one. Good luck...

It is difficult to know what you mean by "bland". Get a tripod if you do not have one. I do not know how anyone shoots landscapes without it. Get a <A href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1302596&size=md">cable release</A>. Shade your lens with a hat when making an exposure (do not block lens though).<BR><BR>A film has a latitude, or range, of exposure that it can still make a print from. Some films may claim 1 stop under and 3 stops over. Let's say your meter says 125/f8. But the scene really needed 60/f8. A machine can still make a print from the negative due to its latitude, but it may not be optimal. Contrast and color saturation can shift when under or over exposing your film. Experiment with chromes (slide) and learn exposure.<BR><BR>Then I think it would be a good time to try the 50/1.8 prime previous posters mentioned. But not until you get a tripod, cable release and slide film so that can really learn from the prime. Good luck...

<HTML><BODY>Tim, I have the aluminum version (1224) that has a lighter load rating than yours (6 vs 8 kgs). I use mine for both 35mm and my MF gear. The Mamiya weighs over 10 pounds, and I have used it in the field in the extreme manner as depicted in my photo. You will be ok with bigger glass with the F100 on your Gitzo. Unless of course you go with a monster telephoto - but then you would be getting a Wimberly and different tripod all together. Do you like your UBH? I love mine!<BR>

<CENTER><IMG SRC="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1302600&size=lg"></CENTER></BODY></HTML>

Will anybody read this after the previous 1000 posts? I don't know, but here is my take on the tangent "I'll just archive all my images on CD, the heck with a photo album" line of thinking.

 

Be patient...I originally became "seriously" interested in photography a little over a year ago. I was scrapbooking (yes, I'm a guy, and I scrapbook), but getting tired of looking at all of my awful happy snapper pictures to use in the albums. One day my son comes into the room where I was and picked up one of the scrapbooks from his first year. Man, did he get a kick out of all the pics and writings I had recorded. He loves going thru the albums. I think way back when my grandpa died. What did everyone want to do? Look at pictures! No matter what we capture our images with - digital or film - lets leave some good old fashioned pictures behind so everyone can view them - not just a bunch of cds.

I do not own the lens or pouch, but you can try <A href="http://www.kinesisgear.com/e.html#e580">this</A>. It might be a good alternative to the hard case you are currently using.

I believe Minh is confusing 2 seperate characteristics of b&w print film. The exposure latitude of color print film is greater than chromes. The latitude of b&w is greater than color. What this refers to is the f-stop range of each type film can handle, or record. B&W has the greatest range from shadow to highlight.

What Minh is alluding to (I presume) is the built-in "slop factor" of print film vs chromes. With chromes, wysiwyg. With print film, a badly exposed negative may still be printed with the help of a machine or person. But, each film is different, not necessarily dependent on wether it is color or b&w.

 

Rod, shooting with b&w should be no different than shooting with color as far as metering goes. You should really test your equipment with chromes to learn how your camera's reflected meter behaves. You should learn when to apply +/- exposure compensation in all situations regardless of the type film in camera. I have just recently started making my own prints at a local rental darkroom. I can assure you, it is a lot easier to make a print with a well exposed negative than from a bad one.

 

If you are going to do a wedding, I would recommend considering a seperate handheld incident light meter.

Eric,<BR><BR><A href="http://photonotes.org/reviews/1-1N-3-1V/">HERE </A>is a link to a nicely crafted comparison chart put together by <A href="http://www.photo.net/shared/community-member?user_id=191711">NK Guy<A/>. You should find it helpful. Charlie...

If you are within 2 hours driving distance of a store to rent some MF gear, I highly recommend it. You can read for months, but until you actually use it, you will be spinning your wheels a little. Be careful, though. I rented one, and fell in love with it.

 

If you do rent, I also highly recommend you rent a unit that is all manual. Or at least can be used in manual. Also rent a light meter, cable release and tripod if you don't have them already.

 

Enjoy your new adventures.

Daniel,

 

Here's a link to <A href="http://www.manualsrus.com/Shopping_Cart/photo/cameras/canon/caEOS1NEOS1RS.asp">manuals r us</A>.<BR>

Here's a link to a sorce on <A href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2913054842&category=4685">e*ay</A>.<BR>

Have you considered the Magic Lantern Guides for the 1N? I've never used them, but have heard good things, depending on the camera/person.<BR>Good luck...

Wooi, your lens mount will not tear if you do not use the lens collar. However, the camera and lens together will be <A href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1296614&size=lg">better balanced</A> on your tripod. When shooting in <A href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1296635&size=lg">vertical position<A/>, I consider it a must. This keeps from having to flop the camera over to one side of the tripod. The tripod can serve its function better when the weight of the gear is centered over the head.<BR><BR>This forum also has some information on the two different collars you can get for this lens. Basically, one is white, the other is black. The black one is ~ $40 cheaper.<BR><BR>Enjoy your new lens. You will really like it. Charlie

DS, congrats on your 1N. That's a lot cheaper than I've seen at the local camera stores. I sure hope it fixes your problem you've mentioned with the fit between your E7 and 70-200/2.8.

 

Come on, now, you gotta admit. The weather hasn't been that bad in OR this winter. I don't think it's been bad enough :)