joenieters

Vladimir,

 

I should have added that I use the CDs in addition to hard drive storage. The CDs are effectively backups number 2 and 3. Backup number 1 is hard drive with number 4 being backup to an on-line service.

 

But to answer your specific question, yes, a hundred and fifty 1meg hard drives would be safer than a single 150meg drive.

 

My photo bag always includes a portable CD/DVD backup drive. This allows me to make backups in the field and allows me to free up memory cards if I should start to run low. When on assignments that require travel, I make 2 backups to CD before I return and I ship one copy by FedEx while the 2nd copy accompanies me as I return.

I strongly believe in using smaller media to prevent catastrophic loss of more images than necessary. Not just during the shoot but also to prevent failure of long term backups. I use CD (no plan for using DVD) for backups and I match my memory card size to that. Currently I am using a 6mpx camera with 512mb cards and back them up (twice) to CDs which hold one memory card per CD.

 

If you have time to delete images during the shoot then you also have time to swap cards. For me, I keep track of cards by placing blank cards consistently in right-front pants pocket with used cards in left-front pocket. I get the next card ready and have it in my hand as soon as I notice the current card is nearing full.

 

With some practice you will be able to swap cards very quickly.

Try to think of it this way...if all else is equal with only the sensor's dimensions being different, the ONLY thing that changes is how much of the photo is cropped off. The image remaining from the smaller sensor will be identical to that part of the same image from the larger sensor. Nothing else changes.

Paul,<br>

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Read up on the specs and features of the SB-800. I think it will give you the most flexibility with both cameras. Here is the link to the<a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/SB800_en.pdf"> manual</a>.

Russell,

 

Here is what I use, the Delkin BurnAway portable CD burner. $250 at BUY.com. Money well spent I think.

 

http://www.buy.com/prod/DELKIN_BurnAway_Portable_CD_Burner_Card_Reader_DVD_Player_in_One_Device/q/loc/101/10375029.html

When I travel, I take along a portable CD/DVD burner and enough flash cards to get through a day. At the end of the day, or sooner if need be, I burn 2 copies of each flash card. When it's time to head home, one set of CD/DVDs goes with in my carry on and the other set in my checked baggage. You could also ship a set via UPS/FedEx if you don't want both copies on the same plane.

Be prepared to deal with contrast issues. Most boats have lots of white or very light components, including the hull on fiberglass boats. This creates the potential for lots of blown highlights surrounding the subject, particularly if the subject is under shade. I would suggest using a good zoom lens that extends well into the wide area. You will need the wide angle for the close quarters typical of boat interiors and a zoom will help you compose tight enough to avoid excess surroundings that are likely to be blown out.

Will,

 

The way I understand it is that one of the reasons wider angle lenses "may" result in more aberration on digital, is due to the difference in how light strikes the surfaces of film and a digital sensors. With digital, the surface of the sensor is not as flat/smooth as film. Each photo site is a small object but not as small as a grains on film. In fact, you might want think of these photo sites as little buckets with the light sensitive portion at the bottom. The result "can" be that some light is blocked or partially blocked by a neighboring photo site or the primary photo site wall before it reaches the sensitive part of the receptor. The result can be falloff and aberration. DX (and some non DX) lenses take this into consideration and attempt to control the light so that it is traveling more perpendicular to the sensor surface. With film, this was less of an issue and was not as big a consideration when designing lenses for film. The longer the focal length, the less of an issue this is.

Well, it also depends much on the focal length of the lens. With many telephoto lenses you gain in that you are using what is generally the best, center of the optics which leaves most of the undesirable edge effects out of the image. As mentioned, vignetting and corner softness are less of an issue.

 

However, with wider focal lengths, you may see more chromatic aberration and perhaps some subtle color shift with non-DX lenses than you would see with same lens on film. DX lenses are not just optimized for smaller sensors, they are also optimized for digital.

The Nikon CLS is amazing. Get yourself 2 SB-800s and two SB-600s. You will be ready to handle just about anything and will not regret it!

David, I reviewed my setup and what I am doing is using a "proofing profile" that I think was provided with the latest Epson driver but I am not sure. I recall some time back reading that Epson had posted some profiles for the 1280 printer. Today I can only find print profiles for the Epson ColorLife paper. The proofing profile that I use is named "ee151__1.icm" and at least allows me to preview for color changes and out of gamut colors. Either I am just lucky that the colors produced meet my needs or your needs are more demanding than mine.

David, I have been using Epson Enhanced Matte and Epson Matte Paper-Heavyweight almost exclusively with my Epson 1280 printer (with Epson inks) and the results are consistently good. I have been very happy with the prints. I like the look of Enhanced Matte best but use the Matte Paper-Heavyweight for extended life. I have been using the profiles from Epson's website and don't see the need for anything more. The colors have been sufficiently accurate.

Jeff,

 

Without the EXIF details from some of the shots that are "dark and soft" it's difficult to guess what might be wrong. Assuming your camera is not defective, my first thoughts are high ISO (maybe due to auto ISO setting) combined with aperture smaller than f/16.

 

Change your ISO setting back to 200. Check all your settings or perhaps even reset the camera back to its default settings.

 

You also did not mention what flash unit you are using. More info and perhaps a few sample images would help.

I use this lens on my D70. I also have the 20mm/2.8, 50mm/1.4, and 105mm/2.8. All of these primes are sharper and other than the 50mm/1.4, they are all a lot more expensive. However the 28-200G is sharper than I had expected. If you are looking for a general purpose walk-around lens or if you need to travel extremely light then this lens is a very good choice. I am very happy with the results from this lens in moderate to bright light outdoors and well lit interiors. If you want to use this lens in dark interiors I would highly recommend an SB-600 or SB-800 flash or buy a 50mm/1.8 to go with the 28-200G.

You can use anything that is neutral but I feel that the camera gets a "GOOD" recording more easily when your card is white.

Balance depending on which light is the primary light for your subject unless you want a different effect. Outside, with plenty of sun, your flash should be providing fill with daylight as your main lighting. If your not moving into and out of shade, set your custom white balance to the conditions and see if you like it. Otherwise set on daylight or shade. If you are shooting RAW you can make adjustments later. If JPG, take your time to try "preset", "Daylight or Shade" and "Flash" to see which gives you the best color.

Thank you for the answers so far.

 

I am located in the Lake of the Ozarks area of Central Missouri, about 45 miles south of Jefferson City, Missouri.

 

My thoughts for considering BW400CN were exposure latitude as I get use to the camera and common C-41 processing for more lab options.

I have in my possession a Yashica Mat-124G. I have been shooting

digital for the past few years and this will be my first real

experience with film of any kind.

 

My current thought is to start off with Kodak BW400CN film. I don't

have any local labs that can process 120/220 film with any

reliability so I need recommendations on the following:

 

- Labs that will process my film and that are good to work with

remotely.

 

- Best method for shipping film to a lab while protecting against

heat.

 

- Recommendations for paper. I was thinking of trying Endura

Metallic. This is also a lab consideration I suppose.

 

- Scanning - Because I am already digital, should I opt for scanning

rather than having prints made and if so, what should I be looking

for?

 

Or, am I just way off base and should be considering something

altogether different?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Joe Nieters

I like <a href="http://www.framedestination.com/">Frame Destination</a>. Great service, attention to detail and high quality.

Dave, why do you think the CLS is optimized for 3 lights?<br>

<br>

The SB800 can separately control 3 <i>groups</i> of lights which can be a mix of SB800 and SB600 units. So...yes, the SB600 could be effective in reducing shadows and is controlled by the SB800 that is used on the camera as the commander.<br>

<br>

Joe

I have been using the 681B for several months now. I am quite happy with it. I am 5'8" high and the 681B is tall enough for me. As mentioned, this is important. You need to be able to use your camera at eye level while standing straight. It also collapses enough to use while in the bleachers or while kneeling. Also as mentioned, be sure to add a head that will allow you to swivel the camera to different angles, but primarily, be sure that you can flip the camera on its side for vertical shots. I also have added the same quick-release system to the 681B that I use on my tri-pod so its easy to switch back and forth. I take the 681B everywhere, especially if I cannot carry my tripod. One trick I learned using the 681B is to attach it to your camera even if you are shooting while walking. I find that it weighs just enough that when attached and collapsed, it still helps stabilize the camera even if not anchored to the ground.

The 18-70mm DX zoom that comes with the D70 kit is worth its price. It is not however, as sharp as the lenses you already have. Your 35-70mm 2.8 should prove to be valuable as a portrait and general purpose lens and I think you will be happier with it than you would with the 18-70mm. If I had the two lenses that you already have, I would skip the 18-70 kit and buy the body only and start saving for a 14mm prime or 12-24mm zoom. You might also consider getting the full kit and then, if not happy with the 18-70mm, sell it. I would also note that you might actually be happier with your existing lenses on the D70 than on your F100 only because the cropping factor helps to minimize falloff and distortion at the edges as only the central portion of the image is actually used.

I use the Nova 3 to carry my D70 along with a 20mm, 50mm, 105mm and 28-200mm zoom. I also keep the battery charger, batteries, 3 filters, cleaning supplies, camera owner's manual and memory cards in the bag. I also use the Nova 1 AW to carry my Kodak DC5000 and its related accessories.

 

Both bags are proving to be very well made and sufficiently protective. I would not hesitate to check either bag when flying if I had to. Both bags are organized similarly and allow me to store everything in a way that makes it easy to get to what I need quickly.

 

The Nova 1 is actually large enough to hold my D70 (with lens attached) along with a few accessories and serves well when I want to minimize weight and bulk. The Nova 3 is large enough for everything I need but I find that I can easily load it up so that it becomes heavy. Even so, I frequently carry the Nova 3 on my shoulder all day. I did however change the shoulder strap to one that is a little wider and has sections that absorb shock.

 

I have been very happy with these bags and recommend them.

With my D70 I decided to pass on the 18-70 even though it is a good value. Instead I chose the following Nikon lenses;

 

- 20mm/1.8 D

 

- 50mm/1.4 D (although the 1.8 may work for you)

 

- 105mm/2.8 D Micro

 

- 28-200mm/3.5-5.6 G

 

Pretty happy with these so far and plan to add something like 12-24 later.

For a start, try Photographer's Edge for greeting cards and Frame Destination for wood frames.