david_chilvers

The 18 is probably a good choice for what you want. I have used mine at times for just that. however just of late I treated myself to a 10-24 and it spends pride of place on my XT2 most of the time, I do take it off now and then to use my 35 1.4 for shallow DOF and also my 14 2.8 but in general the 10-24 has such a good focal length span it covers most things and of course it does have IS.

I think the usb 11 cards will work ok in the camera and also the U3 cards but to be honest the U3 cards come into there own when shooting 4k video in the other models. You probably will notice a slight speed difference using the U3 cards and with the future cameras coming out I think I would at least go for the U3 cards. I have a mixture of uhs1 and 11 and notice no difference in the XT10 or XT2 for normal HD video or stills but of course with the right card reader the usb 11 cards download a lot faster.. Like most things these days in a while everything will be usb11 so for the extra it`s probably worth getting a future proof card now.

I have the 14 and in a word it is a superb must have lens ( I don`t use it as often as I should) I have the 23 f1.4 and it is again a superb lens ( I keep that on one of the cameras most of the time) I have the 35 f1.4 and again it is superb( always in my pocket) I have the 18-55 and to be honest I find it unpredictable, when it is good it is very good but quite often it disappoints ( I`m told to keep the IS turned off but whats the point of that) I never use the 18mm because although it`s not a bad lens it can`t touch the IQ from the 14 or 23 so I move around to frame up. I`ve never used a 56mm lens, I keep my 55-200 on the other body and being a superb lens considering the focal range it does everything I need of it.. so when I go out now days, I have a dual mount harness, XT10 and X-M1 (soon to be XT10+XT20) 23mm on one, 55-200 on the other) domke camera vest with 14,35 or just pockets depending which jacket.

I don`t like changing lenses out and about and the 18-55 would fit the bill but with these newer Fuji cameras it`s all about image quality for me.

So, I wouldn`t be without my 14, 23, 35, and 55-200 that way I know with a bit of moving around I have everything covered.

<p>X10 for good Leica like images.</p>

<p>some images here

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/davechilvers/latest_images">http://www.pbase.com/davechilvers/latest_images</a>

</p>

Thank you very much for your replies.

 

Dave

Can someone remind me the difference between the GSw69 mk11 and the mk111

please and how many shutter actuations/films are suggested before service is

required.

 

Thanks

Dave

I`ve had my name down on many sites and shops for a 100mm lens for at least 6 months and today one came up in mint condition:-)

 

I managed to get hold of a new body, 45 and 65 lenses 6 months ago and now I have the set.

 

I must admit I shoot mainly digital now days but the rf645 is definitely a cult camera. It has the feel of a solid piece of metal carved to shape with lenses that IMHO are as good as they get. This truly is a MF Leica.

This is the second time I`ve owned an rf645 and when I heard that they were going out of production I just had to have one. I`ve owned Leicas, Mamiya 711, Mamaiya 6 etc along with just about most modern MF cameras and the only one that had that special look to the images apart from the rf was the Fuji 6x7 but I just couldn`t get over the non interchageable lens and the plastic feel with a ping sounding shutter(as good as the images were)

So will you be happy with an rf? certainly with the results and portability but you will either love or hate the rangefinder style. Is the camera hand holdable? you bet ya.

When in Paris once and doing quite a lot of metro travel, I just kept a lens in each pocket and the body on it`s neck strap under my coat. The lens hoods are a design marvel for size, the viewfinder details can be a bit hard to see at times if you wear specs and watch out for the compensation dial that has a mind of it`s own. Correctly exposed slides, scanned on a Nikon 8000/9000 or drum scanner look bitingly sharp at A3+ and (although I haven`t printed above A3+) I have cropped enough out of the scans that would have been 30" on the long edge at least and detail was still bitingly sharp.

Cesar

I would try to keep the Mamiya if you can, you know the camera and lenses and you will get the urge again for sure.

Going on from that, I have a 20D and the most used lens on it is the Canon 10-22 (eq 16-35)I haven`t used the 20D for some time and I suppose I should sell it to raise money for other things but the combo of the 20D + 10-22 (with the slightly more DOF that the smaller chip gives you)can be superb. when I look at my shots from my FF Canon DSLR +17-40 I know that the 10-22 has it beat, what a shame I can`t fit that lens on the FF.

So my answer! keep the Mamiya and try to afford the Canon 10-22 for your 20D, you will not be disappointed.

8 million pixels up to 20x16! I`ve never printed above A3+ but have always been happy with the results from my 20D at A3+. The 5D is another story, it really does bridge the gap. I always said that when I got the 1DsMk1 that the difference against 645 had gone and now I`m using the 1dsMk2 I`m convinced that it is a match for my old RZ.

The look of the images are not the same and using an RZ has a feel all of it`s own but Boy! in my small studio with the 1dsmk2 tethered to my laptop the ease of shooting is amazing.Is it as skillful film? NO! but when you have been shooting as long as I have the learning curve has disappeared and all you want is the result in front of you so that you can set up the next shot and feel confident that it`s in the bag and that the 50Mb 8 bit raw files is as big as clients are looking for.

As far as showing you images to compare! Sorry, you really can only tell with the files or prints from them in front of you.

Well, I had the 8000 and must admit that in the tests I did against a commercial drum scan(not sure which one)the 8000 was as good in every way. I`ve no doubt that the top drum scans can show more detail but the 8000/9000 is good enough for anything IMHO.

On the downside at high res scans took a long time(annoyingly long)and I had quite a problem with Newton Rings when using the glass carrier on quite a few scans.Now they might have improved the glass carrier for the 9000 so all might be well.

David

That`s basically what I was saying and I agree 100% that there are far too many images for sale for the buyer to choose from and I`m afraid that digital has opened up the market somewhat.In my honest opinion obtaining good quality colour prints in the darkroom had a skill all of it`s own.

Brett

First things first! the moment you print onto canvas it will level the playing field somewhat.

 

The digital route(DSLR) is certainly the route with more flexibilty as has always been the case with 35mm to a certain extent so shooting with a DSLR will give you access to the hundreds of lenses to go along with subject matter. When I look at some of my Fuji 6x7/9 and RZ images they really come to life but there were times when I would have perhaps made a better job by having that sneak preview that digital offers before moving on. It`s the fine tuning that digital allows that I find so good. Certainly a MF camera has a feel of it`s own that takes you back time and again. Using a 1dsmk2 sees the gap between MF and digital very close with the advantage swaying between the two for certain subjects. I wouldn`t be so bold as to write off digital because I`ve seen( and produced) great results with both media.) You will enjoy your GSI as you would have enjoyed a decent digital and don`t loose site of the fact that the content and impact of an image is often what sells it (remember that in general you will be selling to non photographers)

Hands up all those people who having used a 1dsmk2(or 1dsmk1) for a year can say that they are totally disappointed with the results(not just held one or hired one for a week or so)

Enjoy your new camera.

Sorry, this link should work

 

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/LEES-CAMERAS_W0QQsspagenameZADMEQ3aBQ3aFSELQ3aUKQ3a3QQtZkm

 

I have no interest or connection with the store but as it is fairly rare just thought someone might be looking for one.

Thought someone might be interested in this that I came across on E bay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?

ViewItem&item=7619857509&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:UK:1

 

I haven`t seen one of these for many a long year.

Hiya

Again, I`m in the UK and use http://www.blueskyimages.co.uk/ at ?3.50 for a standard 75Mb scan to disk(they offer other services)and with the postal service from the states being good for light items it might well be worth a consideration.

I have no connection what so ever with the above company.

Regards

Karl

 

Thanks, I also saw it and asked the seller a question but by the time he replied it had gone on the Bye it Now:-(

Regards

As the prices come tumbling down I just couldn`t resist getting a new

rf645+65 + 40 mm lens. You really have to hold this camera to enjoy

the carved from solid feel of it.( I had one a few years ago)I`m not

putting any film in it for a while but am going to enjoy playing:-)

I`ve taken one abroad a few times and it has to be one of the finest

MF cameras for travel. I could have resisted the purchase if I hadn`t

have looked back at my old slides and seen just how bitingly sharp

and contrasty the lenses are.I know some people don`t like the

vertical frame when holding the camera as you would normally but at

least it keeps the camera compact with a straight film gate and no

reverse curl of film.

Is it a do everything camera? No, of course not but it certainly has

it`s place in my bag and heart. It has been said that the M7 and Fuji

GSW are the Texas Leica but IMHO this Broni comes closer to size and

feel(and performance)and should have the crown. Now all i need is to

find a reasonable 100mm lens to complete the package.

Best Regards

Firstly! why would anyone want to carry MF gear around? A. to obtain better O/A quality and cropability over 35mm. My findings are that a scan of a 35mm slide or neg using a decent scanner( like the Nikon 4000)starts to bridge the gap to 645 and in fact with good technique and top quality glass like Contax or Leica M results can be as good as flatbed scanning in general. It always amazes me why people allow the chain to be broken, they spend good hard earned money on quality equipment and lenses only to be let down by probably one of the most important links in the chain (converting the image from film to digital) I learnt very quickly way back in my darkroom days that a good quality enlarging lens was every bit as important as the taking lens. It`s like running a top of the range Merc on retread tyres.

OK, you say " i have put all of my money into the taking equipment and can`t afford a good MF film scanner"If you are a hobbyist or casual shooter then splashing out over 2K might not make economic sense, No problem, use your flatbed to proof scan and send your negs off to be drum scanned for as little ?3.50 each with return within three days nicely written to disk from some outlets.I have a 4870 (although I think my Saphire 11 was better)and it is a great bit of kit for scanning documents and images but IMHO only really acceptable for 10x8 or proofing. Do the test and bite the bullet, scan a neg or slide on your flatbed, print out on top quality glossy paper and send the same neg away for scanning and print in the same way. no Contest! I have never been content with second best when first is within my reach and no one else should either.

Philip

 

A bit quick off the mark aren`t you! It`s quite obvious that you are an avid fuji user and there is nothing wrong with that:-)

My fault, what I meant to say with regards newton rings was!

the size of the 6x9 trannie usually meant that to get a really good flat loading required using the acc`s glass carrier ( quite expensive for what it was)and quite a lot of the time you got the added bonus of newton rings along with all the other detail(the work around was to just blow the carrier and never clean it properly.)

As far as selling something that produces great quality! Well, when not shooting for money some people like to Enjoy taking photos for relaxation and (for me at least) that means sophistication which the roll film Fuji`s in question aren`t. Having said that, I still wished that I hadn`t sold mine, they are fantastic cameras with superb lenses that can(IMHO)match or exeed my 1Dsmk2. I`m jealous now, so maybe I might look around for a reasonably priced one.

 

All the best

I had the 6x9 with 90mm lens(around 28mm on 35 i think) and I had the 6x7 with the 90mm lens (both the latest mk111`s.)

The larger size of the 6x9 neg was sort of wasted when printing on standard papers although you could get some good panos. Problems with scanning on the 8000 without the glass carrier and even when used still allowed some newton rings to show.

On the other hand the slides from the 6x7 were probably the finest reproduction of Fuji 100f I have ever seen, sharp edge to edge(unlike the 6x9 which did have a small amount of distortion at the corners.) I should never have sold the 6x7 but at the time was a bit put off by the rather tinny shutter noise and to be honest ergonomics has always been high on my user enjoyment list.The cameras are fairly big and the feel IMHO isn`t very classy(a different kettle of fish entirely but) the feel of the Broni rf645 and Mamiya 711 was ten times better.

They are cameras that can produce as good as it gets with roll film in my opinion, the slides have a different look to RZ67(another good camera)but you might well get fed up with having almost no options to add acc`s or use other lenses.

Nothing is ever perfect, if you can pick up a reasonable 6x7 Fuji with lowish rolls of film through it then you should have some fun and produce some stunning work( I have never had the WOW factor quite as high as when seeing my first slides from the Fuji`s.)

Let us know what you decide

I`ve just been thinking, what is to stop a manufacturer making a

digital back for a camera like the bronica of mamiya?(standard film

types) The back would have to be switched on, the mirror and dark

curtain would stop any light getting on the back(just like it does

for film) and then you make the exposure in the normal way! or am i

missing something? Does the chip have to be charged at the point of

exposure? Even that wouldn`t be impossible.

 

Any thoughts ??

This thread got me thinking and I chatted it over with my wife tonight. She always carried a 35mm compact film camera where ever she went and took general snaps etc.Since she has had a digital camera she has only printed a couple of images out so the thread is broken and in years to come our kids won`t have any of the late memories to look over.Certainly digital has a lot to offer in so many ways and snaps has to be high on the list. So! tonight we searched the web and found one of the many companies that allow you to upload your digital files, they then print them and send them off to you next day using the wet process for which we should see them lasting for a number of years.

WE can`t afford to loose all those memories stuck on a temperamental hard drive or cd never to be seen again.

Brett

 

Yes you do have to adjust the + or - or you can do it through the film speed. I find because the prism on the broni is not quite as precise as some I do it by getting my Canon 35mm on spot and hold the two screens in front of the lens and seeing how different the readings are.

Tom

 

Thanks a lot, prism ordered

Brett

 

I paid $115, not sure now what condition it was listed at(somewhere around the middle condition I think)there are a few marks but nothing to get angry about.

 

Dave