peter_colavito

Photofloods are tungsten. A 211 is 75 watts, a 212 is 150 watts, and a 213 is 250 watts.

There are also #1 and #2 Photofloods that are 250 watts and 500 watts respectively. To

filter them for daylight you would need Rosco or Lee CTB(color temperature blue). it

comes in 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and Full. Full blue will correct to daylight.

There is a product called Heat Shield that you could put in front of the light. It won't

completely eliminate the heat, but it will reduce it a great deal. The other thing you could

do, and this is done on alot of tabletop commercials is to put the lights on a dimmer. You

can dial down the light level while you are setting them so that not much heat is being

produced,then when you are ready to shoot, bring the lights up full. Just make sure you

dim them between shooting. To soften the light try using some white ripstop nylon.

Shower curtain might not be dense enough to create shadowless light.

First I would check to see if there is a 240V bulb that fits in the socket of that light. If

there is, then all you have to change the plug on the power cord. Since the cable is

designed for 120V it is a heavy enough gauge that it will handle the 240V current.

There are photofloods that have a blue coating, but they are more in the 4300 degree

range. If you want daylight balanced(5600), you need to look into HMI's. Unfortunately,

they run on the expensive side. A cheaper option might be Kino Flo's. They are

flourescent fixtures that come in 2900, 3200 and 5600 degree configurations.

Decide how much you need first, because most film and video rental houses only carry

rolls 4' wide by 25' long costing close to $100 a roll. if you go to a place like Barbizon or

B&H online, you can get smaller 20"x24" sheets for about $6 each.

go to www.barbizon.com. they have a bunch of locations nationwide that will ship to you.

Rosco and Lee Filters are the two major manufacturers of theatrical gels.

where's local?

After you establish your frame and light the object, get a 4'x8' piece of foam core. It is

white on one side and black on the other. Then strategically place it so that all you see is

the white or black(which ever you feel works better) reflected in the metal.

Go to the web site www.mole.com. They manufacture lights for the motion picture

industry. They have a wide array of lights to look at. If you read the specs, you can get a

good idea of what each does. As far as sodium vapor and mercury vapor, thay are built for

industrial purposes and have color temperatures different than what film is made for.

Neon lights are used for store signs, not really lighting for photography unless you are

trying for some special effect.

Other than HMI bulbs manufactured for the entertainment industry, which is what i was

referring to in my previous post, there are metal halide bulbs manufactured for work

lights such as those found in warehouses and other industrial applications. They have an

internal ballast to regulate the electrical current to the bulb. I don't know how affordable

they are, but i don't think they can be easily reconfigured to be used for photography.

You can't do it. HMIs come in a complete system. You need an HMI fixture that comes with a ballast. The cheapest HMI that i know of start somewhere in the $2000 to $3000 range. That is just for the fixture, head cable, and ballast. The bulb is additional.

it looks like they built a ringlight so that the relections in her eyes make it look like he is shooting through a makeup mirror.

Find a store either online or in your area that sells motion picture supplies. You can buy a Kodak contrast glass(#2 is a good place to start). Looking through it helps to evaluate contrast by filtering out most of the color. It is used my many cinematographers. Hope this helps.

Try searching ebay for 1000 watt fresnel lights. There is a place called pyramid films that

sells used motion picture gear. Fresnels are great because they can be used direct with a

nice even field of light, or you can diffuse them for a nice soft light.

There are a couple of options. The first is to go to an electrical supply and buy a 1000w

wall dimmer. It looks like the standard dimmers you use in your house but has heat sinks

on it. The second option is to buy a variac( or Variable transformer), they come in 1000

watt and 2000 watt versions. The third is called a Magic Gadget. It is a 2000 watt

dimmer. I listed them in cheapest the most expensive order. I hope this helps.

RJ

 

I was just following up on the thread and wanted to clarify the magenta issue. I was refering to the Diva light. I think it has something to do with the bulbs in the unit. The rest of the Kino flo line that uses T12 bulbs don't really have the problem with the magenta.

Here are some quick thoughts on the fixtures you mention, and this is only my opinion. I have never used a broad light for anything other than a work light( and i find that to be the case on most sets i've worked on). The Diva tends to be a little too magenta, and by the time you color correct, light output is worthless(its a fine light for video because you can color correct in camera). I like fresnels. They have a nice even field that can be used direct or through diffussion. Many of the old Hollywood portraits were done with fresneels. I would consider a 1000 watt fixture instead of the 650watt.

I work in the motion picture industry and use them often. They come in a bunch of different sizes. The bulbs come in 2900, 3200 & 5500 degrees. My one problem with them is that they can be a little tempermental. For example sometimes a bulb won't work with one ballast then it will with another. But they do offer a nice soft light, with alot of falloff. I believe there was a cover of American Photo with a picture of Nicole Kidman lit only with a Kino Flo fixture and a 60 Watt bulb.

try using 211, 212, or 213 photofloods. They are 75w, 150w, ans 250w

respectively.

Coming from the motion picture world, I would suggest using

plain white Chinese lanterns with photofloods for general

ambient fill, then use a combination of 200, 300, and 650 watt

fresnels to bring out interesting parts of the architecture. Then

add a bunch of light modifying tools to shape the light. As far as

manufacturers, Mole Richardson, Arri, LTM in that order. All

these fixtures can be plugged right into the wall.

If you are on a tight budget, try using 8-10 120 watt R40 flood

bulbs, this will save you bunch on the amount of bulbs, sockets,

and wire you have to buy. To get an exposure, use the meter in

your camera. Take a reading through the lens, open up 2-3

f/stops, then bracket.

Altman makes a 1000 Watt 8" fresnel that I think you can get for

under $500. The model # is 175Q

The size seems to be a good place to start. Instead of building a

box, I would buid it in the shape of a pyramid. The angled sides

will direct any light bouncing around inside the box through the

difussion face.