aim rollphoto805
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Posts posted by aim rollphoto805
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You mean...
When you fire the shutter, it locks up on you and releases like two or three seconds later?
If so, i'm having the same problem with my EOS-1 and PB-E1.
If anyone can help, that would be great...
(it's not shutter lock-up, because this camera doesnt have it, and it's also not set on the timer)
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Ok, i cleaned the contacts, now it occurs once in every 25 or so shots...it will just lock up and blink 'bc' then i take out the nicad pack and put it in and its a repeating cycle....
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It seems as though evertime I hit the shutter, it will lock up, then
open about 3 seconds later...I have no idea what the problem is, it
does it with my Canon Lens and 3rd Party Zenitar lens.
If anyone can give me some advice as to what i should do, i'd be very
greatful
Thanks
Nick
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I'd go with the 400/2.8 and 1.4x extender. That would rock.
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I came across my brother's old Slik U-212 tripod as we were helping
him move, but it was missing the head to it (peice that screws into
the bottom of the camera). I was wondering where I would be able to
find one...
Thanks,
Nick
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That is correct.
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The larger the aperture, the more depth of feild.
ex.
You want to shoot a flower in a garden, and just focus on that flower, using depth of feild. Set the aperture as large as it can go, i'll use 1.8, then set the shutter accordingly to properly expose the shot...the result will be a focused flower, and a blurred background or foreground.
If you want to just shoot the whole garden, set the aperture smaller...say 16,19,22...then set shutter accordingly and the focus will be on the whole garden.
Hope that helped a little bit.
Nick
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I agree with Hal...that TTL crap isn't all that great for studio-like photography.
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I wouldnt need 10 lenses.
15/2.8
24-70/2.8
70-200/2.8
400/2.8
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Ok, I changed from the NiCad BP I had in it, to the magazine of 8 AA's, and the problem does not happen. Then I recharged the NiCad pack, and it works again.
Perhaps that there is not enough voltage in a NiCad BP to power the camera when it's running low.
Just thought that was kind of interesting.
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Thank you everyone for the replies, they helped out alot.
SO i guess i need to buy the regular grip for the EOS-1, so i can use the 2cr5 batt's.
Once agai, thanks...if anyone else has any information, i'd be greatful.
Nick
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I know that this has been asked before, and I've read the threads,
but I cannot make out what the problem could be. Some people said
that it was lens incompatibility, others that it was the way the PB-
E1 was attached to the body, but i've tried everything and it still
blinks and will not take the picture.
Any help?
Thanks.
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What about a hotshoe to PC adapter, then another flash triggered by the PC terminal?
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Thanks, that helped alot.
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Hello everyone...
Around evening time, i usually shoot with a slow shutter speed using
my flash, and the ambient light creates that "transparent" effect
for action shots. I was wondering that if i underexposed the shot
by -1, if the flash (vivitar 285 @1/2 power) will just freeze the
subject without creating the transparent effect, but still properly
exposing the frame.
Probably a Novice question, and pretty hard to understand, but any
help is appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
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I LOVE mine.
I plan to get the canon 15mm soon, but the zenitar works great for the price. Nice optics.
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You can't phaze the 70-200/2.8 IS. I believe it's the best lens you can buy, and if I had the money, I'd definately invest in one. Images are tack sharp at wide open...but with any lens, whenever you pop on a 2x teleconverter, the images will definately seem softer shooting at wide open. Just stop that baby down to f/8-11 and shoot like you've never shot before!
With Sigma, just about every lens they make is a bit soft at wide open WITHOUT the teleconverter, so imagine what it would be like with it (even the 1.4x)...
Good luck with the lens search, hopefully you choose the best one that suits your needs, and hope to see some pics on here in the near future!
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Chris,
i recently bought an old 70-210/4 macro lens for about $100. It's a great lens when stopped down to f/8 or so. kind of slow autofocus, but it's an idea.
I'm enjoying mine, and I shoot skating.
Regaurds,
Nick
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Jim,
The 200/2.8 idea of yours seems like a very good idea. You'll want the faster aperture and longer focal length for birds and butterflies.
You should also look into a macro lens. Maybe the tamron 90mm/2.8 then get the 2x teleconverter. It's a shorter focal length, but the macro will be very nice for birds/butterflies.
Good luck with the search.
Regaurds,
Nick
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Actually the EOS30 (Elan 7) has been known to be difficult for Autofocusing in low light (but it has more to do with a very dim veiw finder, than with the AF). A faster lens will definately help. If you have a cheap 50mm/1.8 mkII, you will notice how much brighter the viewfinder is, and will find it easier to focus in low light situations. If you were shooting with say a 28-105/3.5-4.5 lens or any lens with a smaller focal length, you will notice it to be quite dim compared to hte 50mm.
When I got my eos-1, I noticed right off the bat how much brighter the veiwfinder was, and it helped out ALOT in low light situations.
hope that helped...it was a bit lengthy, but im board.
regaurds,
Nick
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Thanks NK guy.
Yeah the lens is as old as my camera (EOS-1), so I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't find too much information on it.
Nick
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Fazal,
I have a Mini Trekker right now....how did you cram all that in there??
haha
Nick
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Sorry bout that, it's an EF lens, not FD.
Thanks for the link.
Nick
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Hey everyone,
I was wondering if there were any lens hoods available for the old
Canon 70-210/4 lens. It has a filter size of 58mm, and I'm not sure
what lens hoods would work on it....i'll even buy 3rd party if
that's all thats available out there.
But if anyone could help me out by posting a link to a lens hood
that would work for this lens, or just posting where i'd be able to
buy one...i'd be very thankful.
Thanks
Nick
canon eos 1 NPC PRO BACK II
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted