j.e.t

OK, I am just getting started in wedding photography and need some lighting

help. I am used to shooting in Av mode. If I am at a wedding reception, and

want to get a shot of a couple dancing, freeze the motion, but have ambient

light and a little blur in the background, how can I do that? I am using a 10D

with either a 550 EX or Metz 54 flash (set on ETTL or Auto mode). So, does

second curtain sync have anything to do with it? Because whenever I'm in Av

mode at a reception, the shutter speed is so long that it inevitably creates blur.

Now, many of you will probably say to shoot in Manual mode on the camera,

but I have questions about that too. If I am not supposed to use the internal

camera meter to determine correct exposure, how do I know what to put the

aperture and shutter speed at? Would I just leave the aperture wide open to

let enough light in and then change the shutter speed based on what kind of

effect I want?

Finally, how does ISO make a difference, say for example ISO 100 or 400 in a

reception?

Thanks so much!!

OK, this may sound like a dumb question to the more seasoned professionals

out there, but how do you know what the correct aperture and shutter speed

settings are when you are shooting in manual with flash? I use a 10D and

550EX or Metz54 and am struggling with this. When I am indoors, say at a

reception, how do I know what to shoot at? And similarly for outdoor shots

too? Are you always looking at the internal exposure meter to make sure that

it is at 0 to allow for correct exposure?

When I tried testing it out a bit, I noticed that I was shooting at say 1/60 at f2.8

and my friend was shooting at 1/125 at f6.7 and there wasn't much difference!

I don't get it. I usually use the Av mode, because it sets the rest automatically,

but I'd like to learn how to use M mode efficiently. If I am indoors at a

reception and I would like to get a little movement, is it best to leave the

aperture wide open and then adjust the shutter speed to 1/15th or so? And

for the same shot, would it still be exposed if I left the aperture at 2.8 but shot

at 1/60th (just less blur?) Similarly, inside of a church, what if there is very

little light to work with, which setting takes precedence? Do you just leave the

aperture wide open and just adjust the shutter speed depending on what

effect you want?

Maybe it is just something that I'll intuitively have to learn and get a feel for -

but if any of you pros out there have tips and tricks to help the learning curve, I

would REALLY appreciate it!!!

Thank you!

For all Mac users...I've found the solution!!! It is a wonderful software program

called Digital Studio LP by a company called LabPrints. www.labprints.com. I

can design my album, have the images sized automatically, and have my

order sent off to my lab, all from my computer! I am so happy I found this and I

wanted to share it with all other Mac users out there.

I don't mean composites, but designing an album that fits into standard album

configurations (e.g. Leather Craftsmen). I've looked into Montage and my rep

says that the Mac version is not updated, but I've ordered one anyways (it's

free of charge, plus S&H). For anyone out there who works in the software

industry, please make more stuff available for us Mac users!

Hi all, I am in the process of researching album design software for Macs.

Does it even exist? I know of Performer Pro for PC and others, but I am

specifically looking for a Mac software program that has various album

company mat configurations...

And if there isn't such a thing for Macs, how do you Mac users out there

design your albums in a timely manner? Specially, matted albums? Do you

just envision it using the mat configurations pictures, or do you map it out in

Photoshop?

There's gotta be an easier way...

If anyone knows of where I can find this, please respond!!

Thanks.

Once again, I am blatantly reminded of how PC-centric our society is! I am in

the process of researching good accounting software and have found that QB

Pro 6 for Macs is pretty miserable, according to many reviews I've read on the

Internet that is. I am starting in wedding photography and need a good

software program for Macs that can handle all accounting for a financially

sound small business. For all Mac users out there (if there are any left!!!)

please advise on what you use, what works, what doesn't. I've heard that

Quicken is more focused on personal finance tracking, but if there are

photographers out there who have had great experiences using Quicken, I

may have to say myself a $100 and get that instead!

Please advise.

Thank you!

I was a second shooter at a wedding this past weekend (my first wedding!),

using my 10D and new Metz 54 (with a 3008A adapter for bracket use) for the

first time and had a couple of issues. I'm wondering if anyone else has

experienced these and if so, how do I fix them?

- The flash wasn't working in TTL mode, just wasn't firing

- When the flash is in Auto mode, and the 10D is in Aperture priority, the sync

speed automatically sets to 1/200, even when in the Custom functions menu, I

set it for auto and not fixed (1/200)

And then from a purely technical standpoint, I just wanted to clarify something.

If I am shooting on manual mode, since the flash overrides the shutter speed

for anything slower than 1/200, there is no real difference between manual

and Av? Is that right?

And, what shutter speed is required to freeze the subject, but capture

movement in the background and burn in some of the warmer lighting? I

have seen beautiful shots of say, the bride and the groom dancing, sharp and

in focus and well lit, but everyone in the background is blurred a bit. I tried

using 1/4 of a second to 0.3", but the main subject was blurry. Any tips??

THANK YOU for ALL your help!!!

And by that I don't mean bracketing exposures. I mean using a camera

bracket. I am switching over to doing weddings and most people have

recommend I use a camera bracket for my set up. Canon 10D, Metz 54 flash.

Those many people have also said that having the flash off the camera will

provide better light quality. What about this Stofen omni bounce diffuser I am

hearing so much about, which I own as well. Will the quality of light be much

different between flash on camera hotshoe w/Stofen vs. flash on bracket w/

Stofen?? As far as I go, the less equipment and the lighter the equipment, the

better. BUT, I am not willing to compromise light and image quality. So for

you seasoned wedding pros out there, any and all advice you have is

welcome!!

OK, I have ordered stuff from B&H on THREE different occasions this past

week because as soon as I think I have everything I need, I realize that it is

still not working. The neverending bewilderment of photographers...

Let me back up and say that I just got a Stroboframe Pro-T bracket and would

like to simply set it up for use with my Canon 10D and my Metz 54. Sounds

simple right? Maybe for some of you. But, I didn't realize that it would take a

degree in engineering and loads of money for this whole get-up. So, I have

the bracket, the hotshoe mount (additional), the SCA3008A adapter

(additional) so that I can have the flash off the camera on the bracket, but I am

still missing something because there's nowhere on the camera for this

adapter to go and I just don't see how it all fits together. Forgive me for asking

for help on this mechanical matter, but I am now switching over to weddings

and I never needed a bracket for the kind of work I was doing before!!!

Your help is appreciated, along with any comments from people who currently

use this set up. Oh, I think I saw somewhere that using the flash off camera

cuts down on its full capabilities. Is that true?

And, which batteries give the fastest recycle time for the Metz? Rechargeable

NiMh? I have NiMh 2200s.

THANK YOU

Just wondering, if the 10D is 6.3 megapixels and the 1D is 4 or whatever it is,

why is ithe 1D considered to be such a better camera? I don't know all the

technical specs for digital SLRs, but aren't more MPs better than less? I know

there is an answer out there that someone can explain.

Is there a noticeable difference between the two cameras if you blow up an

image from JPEG fine to about 11x14, or even 16x20? Can you even blow up

a digital file (JPEG not RAW) to be that big and be high quality?

I have been looking around the message boards for recommendations on a

book that specifically has various lighting lessons and exercises for the

photographer, for studio, portable flash and natural light situations. I already

own the book, "Light, Science and Magic," but I was wondering if there were

others that took on more of a tutorial stance and offered lots of lessons and

made the photographer take more of a hands-on approach.

I understand that practicing is the only way to understand light better, and I

want to do it, but just don't really know where to begin. If any of you know of

any good lesson books, or can give me a resource that provides various

lighting experiments, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi, I recently purchased a Canon 10D and am getting acquainted

with its many features. My question revolves around the photos,

after they have been taken. When I download them into my

computer, they are at 72 dpi and something like 30x40". When

you are sending them to a client on a CD, do you adjust these

specs at all, or do you leave them as is? What is the acceptable

size to send it to a client (if I am putting them on CDs) if they want

to use the photos for marketing purposes, e.g. collateral,

brochures, some large posters, etc.

Another photographer I know, changes the dpi to 300 and

adjusts the size to match the memory it took up when it was at

72 dpi.

THANK YOU.

I am in the market for a wide angle lens, preferably zoom to

shoot interiors, landscapes, etc. And just need a wide lens to

supplement my existing equipment. I just purchased the Canon

10D, so unfortunately, don't have another $1500 to spend on a

Canon lens. I was looking at the Sigma 17-35 Ex 2.8/4 AF, but

have been reading mixed reviews about it.

Can anyone who owns it or has used it or who knows about it

supply any advice? Or advise on other wide lenses that are of

high quality but not high price? I need to spend less than $500

for this lens, and I saw some good prices on this lens on ebay.

Thank you for your help!

Thanks for your responses. I just wanted to follow up to get an

idea of what all you 35mm shooters out there do when you are

on a professional shoot. Do you all have Polaroid backs for your

35mms? I just checked out prices for putting a polaroid back on

and it certainly isn't cheap!

Someone suggested I get a used EOS 1N for the Polaroid back

and then use an Elan 7E for shooting. Will the separate bodies

make a difference in terms of consistency between polaroid

shots and film?

For those of you who have the Elan 7E, have you found the lack

of a PC sync terminal to be a hindrance? Well, I suppose you

could just use an adapter....

I would like to upgrade my current Canon 35mm system and am

considering either the Elan 7E or the EOS-3. Is there really that

big of a difference between the two systems? Don't people

always talk about the lenses making the difference and not the

camera? I mostly shoot tabletop, people, and travel and would

like a system that is more rugged and reliable. I have heard

fantastic things about the Elan 7E.

Here is my other question. I would like to get two bodies and put

a Polaroid back onto one of them. Anyone know of who does

that? I heard about this company in Newton, MA who does that.

Anyway, would you recommend maybe putting a Polaroid back

onto a Elan 7E and then buying an EOS-3 for shooting, OR buy

two Elan 7E bodies and use the money saved to buy another

lens? Or just buy two bodies to have and put a Polaroid back on

my Rebel 2000? Can they even do that to a Rebel 2K?

Has anyone out there used the Elan 7E for professional shoots?

How does it hold up?

Your responses and recommendations are very much

appreciated.

I recently purchased a used E10 and was wondering if anyone

had any experience using a Speedlite 540EZ with this camera. I

believe that any flash can be used with the E10, it just won't sync

with the Olympus internal exposure system. Since there is no

synching mechanism with the 540EZ, did you just determine

flash power manually based on trial and error using the LCD?

Also, does anyone have the Olympus USB SmartMedia Reader?

How does this work? I didn't receive any software with it. Do you

just insert the card and it will automatically begin downloading

the images?

Thank you.

Does anyone have any experience with the G3? It seems to

have gotten some good reviews.

I guess I am not sure which price bracket to go with. Both the

D30 and the G3 seem like very good cameras but are they even

in the same league? Even if I were to purchase the D30, won't it

be obsolete in a couple months? That is a big investment to

make...

If I am to stray away from Canon, what other digital cameras out

there can offer the same high-quality?

Thanks

Thanks for your response.

Maybe I don't need interchangeable lenses. If the mounted lens

has a zoom capacity that is wide enough, that would probably be

sufficient. As for the flash hook-up, that is still important. Is a

Canon digital body the only one that could work with a Canon

Speedlite?

So, in general, for that price range about $1000 (US), if I take

away the interchangeable lens requirement, is there something

out there that takes professional quality photos? I would also

like for the camera to have aperture/shutter priority, etc.

I forgot to mention that this camera will be used for professional

photos for Web sites and print.

Hi all. I am new to these boards and new to digital and would

totally appreciate any advice you can give me. I know there is so

much information out there about digital cameras, but since I am

looking for a digital camera with certain requirements, maybe

you all could tell me if it even exists:

- at least 3 megapixels

- has the capacity to use external flash, studio flash

- has a video mode (not essential, but nice to have)

- under $1000

I have a Canon 35 mm, can these lenses be used on a digital

body? Also, can the Speedlite external flash units be used on a

digital body as well? I am assuming that the only bodies that will

work with these Canon parts would be a Canon body, right?

Would it be wiser to spend a little more money on a Canon

digital camera so I can use my existing equipment with it, or

should I go for something else?

Also, I don't live in a big city. Which Web sites have you had the

best experiences with, in terms of price, efficiency and customer

service?

THANK YOU!

And one more follow up question. I would like to have the film

processed professionally, but then I would like to print out the

images on my Epson 1280. I have been using Epson Premium

Glossy photo paper, but does anyone know of any thicker paper

that still prints great results? Do you think it is unprofessional to

hand over an 8x10 photo on Epson premium glossy photo

paper?

Hi all. Some acquaintances have asked me to take family and

baby photos for them. I am used to working with still lifes and

need your help on basic professional looking lighting setups.

I am going to be taking these photos at their houses and can

either use my Canon Rebel 2000 with the Speedlite 540 flash, or

my Mamiya 645 with a 375 w/s monolight (is that powerful

enough with a softbox?). I was thinking that for the candid baby

photos, I will just follow the kids around with the 35mm, but for

the more posed family shots, I will use my Mamiya.

Here is my question. What is a basic lighting set up I could use

with a monolight or two that will provide me with professional

looking photos? Where should the softbox be placed? Beside

me, to the right of the family, above the camera in front?

Also, what kind of film would you recommend, black&white and

color for family and baby photos?

THANK YOU for your help.

Thanks all for your responses. They are very helpful. Sorry if my

question was a bit confusing - I in no way want to replace my 645

with a 35mm (I love my Mamiya!). I wanted to potentially replace

my 35mm with a new 35mm, but from your responses, it seems

like that is unnecessary.

From what I am gathering, the lenses are much more important

than the bodies. Currently on the Rebel, I use the 28-80

standard lens that came with the camera and also a 75-300

Canon lens. With that in mind, which lens manufacturers (that

are compatible with the Rebel) are the best ones to look at?

The pictures I am getting are of good quality, I just wasn't sure if

a better 35mm would give me photos of excellent quality (but

once again, it could be the lenses). Also, some of the features I

find lacking are:

- direct flash sync

- bracketing in 1/3 increments instead of 1/2 increments

- sturdier and more robust construction

But if I can save some of that money and maybe buy another

Canon body and nicer lenses, that would be great.

Thanks again for your help.

Hi all. For the past several months I have enjoyed reading the

informative (and sometimes combative!) discussions posted in

these forums. This is my first question for the forum and I am

hoping to glean advice from any and all those out there reading.

I know there has been heated debate regarding Canon vs.

Nikon, but I have more of a specific question I was hoping some

of you could answer.

I am just starting out my photography business and am

re-assessing my equipment needs. I am a food and travel

photographer and use a Mamiya 645 and a Canon Rebel 2000.

The problem with the Mamiya on location is that it isn't as

convenient as my 35 mm, for obvious reasons. I am looking into

purchasing a new Nikon SLR but am unsure if the extra expense

is worth it. On several of the forums, people raved about the

quality of the Canon Rebel. It has definitely taken good

photographs, but would you consider it to be a professional

quality camera? I consider to be more of a high-quality

consumer point and shoot, rather than a professional quality 35

mm. I know that the choices for photographic equipment are

endless, but if I am looking to spend about $2000 on a new

Nikon SLR, 1) is it worth it? 2) which Nikon body would you

recommend for this price bracket (including lenses)? 3) Will I

notice a big difference in the quality between the Nikon and the

Canon?

Thank you all so much for your help!

PS: Are any of you based in North Carolina? I just moved here

and would love to talk to you about your success as a

photographer being based somewhere other than a big city....