kevincable

Hi,

This might be the site that you're looking for:-

http://www.ukcamera.co.uk/

Regards,

KC

Hi,

I use the 45 deg (non metered) prism finder and I find that it's ideal for general purpose photography on a tripod and/or monopod. If you were to do some copying work, and didn't like the angle, you could always switch back to the WLF.

Lack of metering isn't a problem for me, as I prefer to use a separate spotmeter anyway.

Regards,

KC

Hi,

Stopped down AE is used when you don't have automatic links to the lens (eg you're using a manual bellows unit between the camera and the lens). It's also useful for checking depth of field.

Rgds,

KC

I agree with the desire to have the posting dates put back onto the message list - it makes it easier, at a glance, to locate the new postings.

Regards,

KC

I'm happy with the film loading procedure and so far haven't been

unfortunate enough to misload a film. However the Leica way means

that you cannot add and remove winders at will, in the same vein that

you can with SLR's etc..

Hi,

<p>

As I stated on a thread last September, Try giving York Cameras a

call in London on +44 20 72 42 71 82. They're very helpful,

specialise in Canon and have lots of interesting new, and older,

Canon equipment - both new and used.

<p>

Regards.

I agree. After investigating all the new finders available, I

purchased the Leica individual finders for the lenses I own. I also

found that the 28mm lines of the multi lens finder didn't align with

the 28mm lines in the 0.72x M6, but the individual 28mm finder was

OK. I also took onboard other users comments about using plastic

finders in metal hot shoes. Happy shooting.

In the Nikon arena, apart from the FM2n or FM2/T, you could also

consider the older F2 (and derivatives). Extremely robust and still

servicable. There are many retailers for used accessories and Nikon

still make manual lenses. Have Fun.

Try giving York Cameras a call in London on +44 20 72 42 71 82. they

have lots of interesting stuff.

Well for a start...stop shouting. Second...get yourself a decent

lightmeter - it's no good shooting everything at 1/250 @ 5.6 in all

lighting conditions; neg film has a certain amount of latitude but

not that much. Third...create a benchmark photograph - good light,

properly exposed (with the lightmeter), nicely focused - everything

by the numbers. Look at the negative - is it well defined and crisp

instead of thin and weedy? If so then this could be somewhere to

start.