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gee-bug

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Posts posted by gee-bug

    Mamiya C-330 Correcting Parallax

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>I'm glad someone mentioned that the trick of moving the tripod column up will only work if the column movement is in the same plane as that of the lenses, i.e., it will not work if the tripod head is tilted. On that note, one thing I don't love about the paramender is using it on top of a steeply tilted head: when you move it up into the "taking" position, it puts extra torsion (think lever) on the head. You have to be sure to have everything on the head screwed down tight. So, a head that's rated for 8-10lbs that works fine with the camera alone might start to slip when the camera is in the up position on the paramender. Also, your whole rig is more prone to tipping if you don't have the tripod legs positioned right.</p>

    Nikon F5, F100 or F6?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Yeah I know I'm posting to a dead thread, but I just went through this... not involving F6 however. The F6 is too much $$ for a 35mm film camera in this day and age. I'll wait a few years until used F6s are well below $1K. Here's what I've come up with comparing the F100 and F5. Below I list a feature/attribute and which camera I think has the advantage, plus a brief explanation where necessary of why that camera has the advantage.</p>

    <ul>

    <li>Size/Weight: F100 (yes, the F5 is a brick, but I can handhold shoot a 50mm lens sharp at 1/15 sec)</li>

    <li>Manual Mode LCD Display: F100 (F5 doesn't show +0- on external LCD display when in manual mode, sad)</li>

    <li>Viewfinder AF points: F100 (red is easier to see)</li>

    <li>Nose relief: F5 (although the same viewfinder eye relief for both, the F5 viewfinder sticks out literally .5in from back of body, giving more nose room, i.e., your nose isn't mashed up against the back of the camera)</li>

    <li>AF speed: F5 (quieter too)</li>

    <li>Meter: F5 (RGB matrix)</li>

    <li>Durability/feel: F5 (after handling the F5 for awhile the F100 feels rather chintzy)</li>

    <li>Shutter & film advance sound: F5 (the F100 shutter goes BOING and just sounds sloppy compared to tight sound of F5 shutter and film advance)</li>

    <li>Controls/Buttons: F100 (bigger buttons)</li>

    <li>Green button reset: F100 (reset doesn't actually reset all CSM settings on first press, but does on second press. F5 always resets to factory settings which is pretty useless)</li>

    <li>Film Winding: F5 (the manual rewind knob is a HUGE advantage, IMHO. You can actually tell what the film is doing, plus it's easy to rewind with leader out. The F6 has the same manual rewind option too.)</li>

    <li>Mirror Lockup: F5</li>

    <li>Viewfinder shutter: F5 (the F100 comes with an easy-to-lose viewfinder cap. Seriously?)</li>

    <li>External LCD backlight on any button press: F100 (no such CSM setting on F5, boo!)</li>

    <li>AF Area Mode Selector: F100 (although I leave it on Dynamic all the time)</li>

    <li>Vertical Shutter Release: F5 (N/A on F100 without - ahem, plastic - MB-15. Plus the F5 doesn't have an extra easy-to-lose rubber cap on the bottom of the camera like the F100)</li>

    <li>White paint: F5 (granted, a minor aesthetic point, but "Nikon" and "F5" are "engraved" instead of just painted as on F100)</li>

    <li>Motor drive speed: F5 (but who shoots 8fps with film these days?)</li>

    </ul>

    <p>I got a LNIB F100 last Dec. for $350, and this Dec. got a LNIB F5 for $499. Given that price difference, I MUCH prefer the F5. The F5 is a fantastic professional machine. You owe it to yourself to experience this fine piece of 35mm film photography history.</p>

    Zoom creep in new Nikkor 18-200 VR

    in Nikon

    Posted

    My 18-200VR crept pretty badly until I 'fixed' it. I rubbed a little silicon grease all the way around the 'crack' where the zoom ring meets the focus scale. I also heated the lens a bit with a hair dryer(!) and turned the zoom ring vigorously to help work the grease into the crack. It still creeps a bit - now only when pointed up - but not nearly as bad as before. Before you call me crazy: I used to work with Nikonos gear, and using silicon grease was common practice to maintain water-tightness. Disclaimer: do this at your own risk, I'm not liable for any damage it might do to your lens.

    polarizer + close-up filter - stacking??

    in Nature

    Posted

    I realize this is a dead thread, but for posterity: you need to put the polarizer (or an other filter) on first, i.e., mounted directly on the lens. This is because closeup filters are curved, and generally won't allow flat filters to screw into the front. Also, if you are stacking close-up filters, put the most powerful on the lens first.

    Waah! Had to send my Leica to NJ for service...

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Too late, it's already en route to NJ, but I'll remember DAG for next time. This all happened while on a "Leica Shootout" with the regional Leica reps. They of course convinced me to send it to NJ, and said they will call NJ to expedite repairs and hopefully get a price break. Nice folks, definitely a perk of being a Leica owner.<br><br>

     

    Also played with a DMR yesterday:<br><br>

    <img src="http://static.flickr.com/79/259124635_521cf26270_b.jpg"><br>

    Bull elk giving me the raspberry. R9, DMR,Vario-APO-Elmarit-R 70-180mm

    Waah! Had to send my Leica to NJ for service...

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Here's what happened: I took a picture and tried to wind as usual. No luck.

    Stuck. It was on frame 26, so I thought maybe I had a 24exp roll in it. I

    flipped the rewind release and tried to rewind. No luck. Stuck. I pushed a

    little harder on the rewind lever, then POP! I thought I'd broken the film off

    the spool. Cr@p! After much hand wringing I decided to take off the bottom and

    ruin the roll. The film wasn't broken, but was jammed and wouldn't budge in

    either direction. I managed to eventually get it loose enough so that I could

    pull the roll out. The sprocket on the rewind side had unscrewed. I managed to

    get that screwed back in, but the rewind level was stripped, no longer turning

    the sprocket. So... Double cr@p! Off to NJ with it.

     

    While it is at NJ, I'm getting an estimate on upgrading the viewfinder to the

    new M7/MP anti-glare version. I'm also asking to see if I can get an M3-style

    advance lever put on it, but that may be dreaming.

     

    Honestly, I've had a love-hate relationship with film, especially 35mm, for the

    past year or so. After this happened yesterday I was so angry, I started

    spewing about so-called German quality, etc. and fantasizing about dumping all

    my film stuff and going completely digital. After a fitful night's sleep I got

    up and found the original packaging. When I opened it, I had a rush of

    memories, remembering how proud I was when I first opened that box in 2001:

    finally got a Leica after dreaming about it for so long. So, guess what, I've

    decided to sink more money into my Leica. Why do we do it?

    yet another "I handled an M8 today" thread

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I am one of the blessed ones, for I too have touched the sacred object! Kidding.

     

    So I handled an M8 at a Leica Day here in Denver... Yes, there is a

    certain "Wow!" factor. It looks and feels like an M. It's a bit weird without

    the wind lever, but I could get over that. It is louder than an M, at least

    this prototype was. One thing that literally "struck" me, or rather my nose,

    was the ill-placed USB port cover. I tend to wedge M cameras against my nose

    and "eyebrow bone", and the fingernail slot for the USB cover rubs right

    against my nose. I suppose I could change my habits, but I was definitely

    annoying and something I noticed right away. Something I didn't realize: you

    pop off the bottom plate (just like a traditional film M bottom plate) to

    change battery and SD card. Several folks at the Leica day were pre-ordering

    the M8. I'll have to sell my car and live through a divorce before that will

    happen.

     

    They also had the new 4/3 sensor Digilux 3. That isn't a camera to be trifled

    with. It's a very similar form factor to the Digilux 2, but of course with

    interchangeable lenses, and anti-shake (lens) and anti-dust. Leica will be

    making adapters to enable it to accept any major brand 35mm lens mount, include

    R lenses, with the 2X mag factor, of course.

     

    So, all in all, some impressive new stuff from Leica. I just wish I was in a

    higher tax bracket in order to afford it.

    THE K10D is here!!!! $999.99

    in Pentax

    Posted

    Beware of NYC camera stores saying they have the K10D: Adorama lists the body, and lets you order it no problem. Then you get an email the next day saying it is back-ordered. I did this and have just cancelled my order since I didn't want my money tied up until probably November.

    Video: Leica street photography

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Here's an April 2005 p-net thread about the Natalie Merchant video:<br><br>

    <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BiC4&tag=">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BiC4&tag=</a><br><br>

     

    Indeed, right-hand focusing an M3 seems a bit inefficient, especially when the right hand blocks the rangefinder window and focusing becomes impossible. There is also the problem of having to move your hand back to the shutter release when you actually want to make an exposure...

    When Do You Decide To Buy and Sell a Leica Related Product?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    The size/weight issue is what made me get rid of the Noct and 75lux. I had a hard time handling them when changing lenses because they're so fat. I actually dropped the Noct - one of those slow motion, distorted voice, NOOOOOOOO!!! moments - but it landed on the couch, so no harm done. That was a deciding point for sure: use smaller lenses! Can't have $2500 lenses bouncing around...

     

    The "honeymoon" phenomena is interesting. Some lenses have enjoyed longer honeymoons than others for whatever reason. Usually after a year or so I know if I'm going to keep or sell a lens. It is usually some ergonomic issue that makes me want to move on. My 28E is still in its honeymoon, and I have that "where have you been all my life?" feeling about it.

     

    I've bought, sold, and recently re-bought a 50cron. That's the only lens I've done that with, and I swear I'm keeping this cron. I don't think I'll ever let go of my 35 ASPH lux either. The buy/sell disease (Leicaitis?) is in remission right now, but I suspect the symptoms will return.

    Cartier Bresson Interview online

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Keep in mind this is an interview for the general public, not just HCB fans or photographers for that matter. I'd like to see the outtakes. It seems like there may have been issues with Cartier-Bresson's hearing, which led Rose to almost shout at times. Rose didn't quite know how handle HCB's "Zen" answers to his quetions. Rose was a bit annoying with the constant "Why are you so great?" questions. There are a few moments of sheer insight, joy, and humor in the interview, though. Definitely inspiring and worth watching. Makes me want to go for a walk with my 50 Summicron.

    Changing from Leica to Hasselblad

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I went through the same dilemma some months ago, thinking I'd have to sell some of my Leica gear to get into MF. Then I ran into a mint 500C/M with 80 Planar CF T* and A12 magazine for $800 in a local shop (Denver). If you get a used magazine, check for the most common problems: light leaks (cheap fix) and bad frame spacing (not cheap).

     

    <p>It is definitely ssslllooowww going with the Hassy relative to Leica or digital but the results are well worth it. Negs and trannies scan nicely on my Epson 4990 flatbed scanner, so I do "process only" at the local photo shop and save some $$. As recommended above, get heavy tripod with a good head if you don't already have one. I like the Manfrotto 3021 Pro legs and the 3275 3-way head. Yes, 4x5 or larger may be preferred for landscapes, but Ansel Adams used Hassleblad for a good portion of his work in his later years. The superlative <a href="http://www.sierraclub.org/ansel_adams/gallery/halfdome.asp">"Moon and Half Dome"</a> picture was taken with a Hassy.

     

    <p>One last thing: close-up/macro is a blast with the Hassy. I found an 16mm extension tube for next to nothing shortly after I got the camera. The Proxar close-up filters are another cheap way to go. Have fun!

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