larry_mobbs

In the Galway area you should see the Aran Islands at the mouth of Galway Bay. The area

west of the city of Galway, the Connemara is fabulous. South of Galway Bay are the Cliffs of

Moher. There's a million photos of the Cliffs on Google Earth. You can get there driving

North from Shannon and then on to Galway.

I had that lens in the 60's and loved it. I found it at a hobby store in Detroit for $150. I sold

my whole FD setup in the 70s when I went back to college. I bought FD equipment again

starting in 99 and have looked ever since for a good buy on that lens. I even bough a 19mm

viewer for my Russian and Voigtlander cameras hoping to find it's mate.

Every lens I saw on ebay seemed to $350 or more and I'd never go that high. Since I moved

to EOS I stopped looking. I did buy the Vivitar 19mm and found it a real disappointment.

Great choice for you, though. Congrats.

I've had iPhoto 08 for a week now and I've found it very good for cataloging photo. This

am I was out shooting and I also had image still on the CF card that were previously

transferred to the Mac. Attaching the card this am I was presented with the option of

importing everything or ignoring the duplicates. The new images come in easily and

quickly and they create an Event which can be displayed as a single photo thumbnail

which can be skimmed or in a view of Events in alphabetical order which displays variable

size thumbnails.

 

Image enhancement is improved but way short of a serious editor but nonetheless it is

very usable and effective.

 

Uploading to the .Mac service is very quick and provides a large variety of methods to view

the online items. I have Albums online at :

 

gallery.mac.com/larry_mobbs

 

if you're interested in seeing the skimming.

I've had that experience on several Rolleicords and folding cameras. My guess would be is that the exterior mechanism is where your problem lies, not in the shutter blades. I've used an electronics cleaner from Radio Shack that is designed to flush dust out of the slots on electronics like amplifliers. Use this stuff sparingly but it's result is virtually instantaneous.

I work at a Travel Michigan Welcome Center. We have an office on Interstate 75 near Monroe.

If you come by that route stop and get a State Publication, Michigan's Upper Peninsula 5 Star

Wilderness. It has a lot of details on site, many most people never heard about.

Alex's comments above are what I would recommned as well. Also, as mentioned, Mackinaw

Island is right on your route. As we say at the Center, when you get to the Bridge (Mackinw)

take the ferry.

I can give you a 5 second fix for the shutter speeds. I'm betting the problem is just a dirty mechanism above the shutter lever. I've had it a number of times with Rolleicords I picked up off of ebay. I lightly spray on the mechanism Radio Shacks Precision Electronics Cleaner. This is a cleaner that flushes goo and dirt off of electronics and then evaporates in seconds. I've posted this many times and nobody seems to want to try it but it has been magic for me many times. Radio Shack sells two versions, one is a high pressure can and one is a can with a long brush on a nozzle and the cleaner just seeps into the brushes. The second choice is much easier to manage. I have also used this on old cameras with "broken shutters" both leaf and focal plane. I've found in buying a lot of old cameras that often the delay machanism is stuck and the owner assumes it is a faulty shutter.

 

Radio Shacks product works very well on that as well. I had one attempt putting on the tracks of the focal plane shutter and that was a disaster. It wouldn't dry and kept sucking up the lubricant that was supposed to be there.

 

The Rolleicords downward facing shutter lever doesn't present that risk.

I have to agree with the above post. This is a limited camera. However, I always liked the feel of these little gems. My favorites are the Contessas. If you're lucky, you can find one with a working selenium meter and rangefinder.

There are only two actions you can take with this camera. First, the lever below the lens under the Zeiss Ikon banner, releases that ring which allows you to change the ISO. The camera selects it's own shutter speed and f stop. The stop will change with the ISO. The other lever on the lens puts the camera into the flash mode but also sets the shutter to about 1/30th. I think it normally defaults to about 100.

 

My Tenax has the Tessar 2.8/50 and I was always real happy with it's sharpness.

When you are shooting standing subjects at a wedding it is typical to include the entire person, particularly the women. They are showing off their gowns and a lot of that is lost if the lower part of the gown and the legs are cropped.

 

The girl at the table in the red dress is very nice for a candid and I liked the child on the settee. The other comments above are valuable critiques. You should pay attention to them. Also, enjoy yourself when you work. This is a happy occasion and that should show or you customers will be disappointed.

I have a number of Zorkis and Fed starting with Z1. I routinely interchange a variety of their lenses. I also have the CV 25mm that would do well on such a body. As stated above it uses click focusing rather than rangefinder. Actually, I much prefer that with the 25mm. I once wandered around a museum exhibit opening with the CV mounted on a Zorki 2c. I could hold it at waist level and focus it with one finger as it rested on my palm. Didn't have the viewfinder on but the system worked wonderfully. The clicks are set a 1 m, 1.5m and 3m. With that lens thats close enough. For street shooting its far superior to using the rangefinder.

 

Overall, though, I wouldn't worry about the other lenses focusing correctly with your rangefinder. It is easy to adjust on that camera.

My comment was based on the idea that the timer had been triggered and was stuck and couldn't complete the wind down to the tripping of the shutter. Loosening the timer would solve THAT problem. If the mechanism is jammed the cleaner won't be helpful. I'd have it around for any old cameras, though.

I've found that the Electronic Cleaner sold by Radio Shack is ideal for these kinds of problems. It is made to clean electronics, like stereo amplifiers when dust builds up in slider slots. It flushes dirt away and then evaporates. I've used for years on Rolleicords that were sold with "broken" shutters. Actually, the problem was the external mechanism was stuck on a combination of lubricant and dirt. 5 seconds to fix this.

Radio Shack sells a product, the Electronic Cleaner, that flushes gunk and dirt, dust and other stuff off of electronics. Generally, in old cameras it is a matter of lubricant and dirt solidifying. The cleaner will flush it off in seconds.

 

The product comes under high pressure with a long nozzle or low pressure where it seeps out within a long brush. I'd buy the latter as under pressure it can get blown into the lens elements.

 

I've bought a handful of "broken" Rolleis off ebay and had them working in seconds with this stuff.

I've used my Ls with a variety of lenses. The body was made for the 15mm, as has been spoken, the 12mm is really expensive. I use the 25mm a lot. It has click focusing as does the 15 but I don't think the 21mm has that feature. Click focusing is worth a bundle, especially for the street photographer.

 

Another combination I fell in love with was a 28mm Canon FL lens with the CV 28mm viewfinder. You can see the aperature ring and the focussing scale on the lens. You have to use a Canon converter B to fit the FD/FL lenses on the L.

I spent a week in County Galway and found I took too much equipment. After a day or two I settled on two Canon AE-1s, mounting a 24mm and a 35-105. I carried a 50mm but don't think I ever used it. Always had the Epic in my pocket but didn't really use it much. Also had two Coolpix 880s, one mounting a 24mm. If I had been restricted to one fixed lens on the trip, the 24 would have been my choice. I never had occasion to reach beyond 105mm with the film cameras.

I have a lot of FD equipment that mostly doesn't get carried much anymore. For the last few years I"ve left a Canon TX with a Soligor 28-80 mm lens and a rubber lens shade. It is held in a small Quantaray holster and is kept in the console of my van.

 

For the equipment you mentioned I'd suggest a Lowepro Omni Sport to hold the collection. I would agree with the earlier post to take the package indoors over night.

You need to check the film carefully and determine which face of the film is scratched. That cuts your choices in half to finding the burr causing them. Likely, it is on the non emulsion side and the burr is on the body behind the takeup spool.

You might jam it in there with a shoe horn but getting it out might take a crane. I use mine for an AE-1. I sold an Off Trail 2 to my friend for his D70. There is a big difference in size between the two. I would suggest a Nova 2.

I often carry a Canon D30 with a 35-105 mounted, a 22-55 and a 70-300. Typically, I include a Panasonic P&S digital. I've found the Lowepro Mini Mag to be a very comfortable fit and still have room for more. Mine is the older style that doesn't have slip lock add-ons as the current models do. The unit is plenty deep for the 300mm length and easy to access. The AW features will protect in nearly any weather condtion.

It is usually hardened dirt that causes the stickiness. Try Radio Shack's Electronic Cleaner. It is a fluid that flushes material away and then disolves. It is wonderful for all kinds of applications.

Most image editors and viewers cannot "see" RAW files. The Canon software has a limited program included but I would recommend downloading the RAWshooteresstials program. Also, the latest Paintshop Album program with the downloadable update can view and do some limited editing of RAW. The RawShooter is really a wonderful program.

One simple test of Leica versus Russian fake. If the shutter button has threads for a cable it's fake. Leica didn't add that feature until the M series. Another test is the plate surrounding the viewfinder in front. The Russian cameras are castings. The Leicas are separate pieces attached via a screw. On the Russian, the screw covers access to the rangefinder adjust.<div></div>

If speed isn't an essential need I would seriously consider the CV 25 and even better, strap it on a Bessa L. The bodies are almost give aways right now and they are fun to use with this lens. Don't be bothered by lack of connection to the rangefinder. The click focusing on this lens and the 15mm is as good or better than using the rangefinder and is ideal for street shooting as you can focus in the dark without ever looking at the lens.

I bought a FZ1 from Keh.com. Excellent sellers.

I just had to try out the 12x lens. Despite the limitations of the Z1 I really like the feel of the Panasonic cameras. Noise is a problem after iso 100, but I have a ball with mine. IS is a wonderful addition to your stable.

Was able to lure this fellow in close a number of times. This was my

favorite capture.<div></div>