johnfriar

Thanks for giving that a go Trevor. It usually works but I couldn't manage it today.

 

For those that are interested, you will need to cut and paste to the browser.

No G1 photos but here are some with the G2 and 21mm...<br>

<br>

http://www.johnfriar.com/Index.jsp?m=2,11,101<br>

http://www.johnfriar.com/Index.jsp?m=2,11,102<br>

http://www.johnfriar.com/Index.jsp?m=2,11,125<br>

http://www.johnfriar.com/Index.jsp?m=2,12,124<br>

http://www.johnfriar.com/Index.jsp?m=2,12,149<br>

http://www.johnfriar.com/Index.jsp?m=2,13,145<br>

As Raymond says, you cannot use ICE with any silver based film...the result is quite ugly. However, I only use ICE if I need to, even with transparencies or C41. If I develop myself, and if I'm careful, the scans from traditional b/w film require minimal cleanup.

Hi Ben,

 

I've settled on a couple of films for scanning and producing digital b/w prints: Fuji Astia and Ilford XP2. If I needed to print traditionally (which I don't), as you require, that would then mean the XP2. Here's how I got to this:

 

I use a Nikon Coolscan 5000. Scanners, and I don't think the Nikon is unique in this, have an easier time with colour transparencies than other film types. I believe this is because the image is represented in a wider range of tones, from black through to clear, on a transparency. On a negative, the same image is represented in a narrower range of densities. The disadvantage of colour transparency, relative to b+w negative, is the exposure range that can be captured in the first place. Therefore, for good outside lighting, I use Astia because of it's lower contrast characteristics.

 

If I need speed then I use XP2. This scans well especially if not underexposed (I rate at 320). I have had limited success with using faster transparency or any colour negative film. I sometimes use Ilford Delta 100, 400 or HP5 -- but only if I can develop myself to keep the negatives dust and scratch free.

 

BTW: I prefer XP2 over Kodaks equivalent because of the film base. With XP2 it is more like a traditional b+w negative. With Kodak it's more like a colour negative (orange).

 

These are just my experiences. I think it's worth trying a few films out and experimenting to see what works for you.

 

Hope this is of some help!

 

John

<div></div>

Hi Mike,

 

To me, this sounds like an excellent idea!

 

But I would say that. I've been thinking about it the other way around. I've managed to aquire decent Photoshop (CS2) skills and now do all my work with a digital camera, "develop" in photoshop, and print to 12x18 on an Epson R2400. The results are much better than I could ever have achieved in a wet darkroom. I have been mulling over the idea of offering this as a service.

 

What I don't know is, how many people would be interested in such a service and what a fair price is? What are your views of either of these points?

 

Regards

 

John

 

http://www.johnfriar.com

I too have noticed these spots with my 20D. I haven't done any scientific tests yet but they seem not to be there consistently. I have a EF28/2.8 and have not yet noticed them for this lens. Same for my EF200L/2.8. But I do notice them in some of my Zeiss 35mm shots.

 

I don't believe the spots are caused by dust on the sensor, but cannot explain them. For now, I get rid of them in Photoshop which works very well.

I recently installed a focusing screen from http://www.keoptics.com/ into my Canon 20D. I use manual focus Contax lenses, with an adaptor, and I find focusing more than adequate, but not as good as with my Contax film bodies.

 

John

Doug,

 

Formatting is the process of putting control information on to the card in order for a camera or pc to read and write information to it. A card must be formatted before use and can be formatted any number of times. Keep in mind that if you reformat a card then all information is lost. I use this fact to quickly delete all the contents of a card.

 

I think many cards come pre-formatted. On the 20D the option to format is in the tools menu. It takes just a few seconds to format even a large capacity card.

 

Hope this helps.

 

John

George,

 

I have a G2 and occasionally use a TLA 280 on it. It does support TTL mode, so I'm guessing that the TLA 360 will do so as well.

 

But, as Kevin says, the 360 may be a little big for the G2. The 280 certainly feels on the large size for the camera.

 

John

I'm not sure about the ability to reclaim sales tax. I would imagine it to be quite an onerous thing to do. Even with sales tax, you're getting a good deal compared with Europe. If you find yourself in Oregon then you may want to buy there. They have no sales tax.

 

John

Hi Nick,

 

As Scott says, Glazers are probably your best bet. Don't forget that you'll need to add about 8% sales tax in Seattle.

 

One way to make even bigger savings, if you don't mind not seeing the equipment first, is to buy from one of the New York retailers. BH Photo or Adorama are 2 respectable outfits (many in New York are not). I live in Seattle and have bought equipment for my father this way. He lives in the UK. The savings are almost 50% over what you pay in Europe these days.

 

Hope that's useful to you.

 

John