phil_brammer

Try and find a Mitsubishi DV 648UT, it does A4 size (210mmx297mm)

trannies to 1200 dpi optical, fine for cataloging and small prints. I

puchased mine new here in Australia for AU$ 240 (approx $120US)

I have both 90mm lenses. The angulon, as said previously, has less

coverage than the super angulon (focus across the frame is not as

even as the super) and the angulon has more light fall of on the

edges (i did use mine for 6x17). The angulon is also uncoated (prone

to more flare). However, the angulon, i found, was an exceptional

lens even at 6x17 for sharpness when stopped down (of course i still

had unacceptable light fall off). I purchased a super angulon as i

could use larger apetures (if i really needed), have less fall off

and less flare effect from internal reflections. In my opinion if you

shoot 4x5 or less and are not worried about the uncoated lens use an

angulon if you find a good one.

Hello

 

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I have built a 6x17 camera and and would like to know how one would determine the lens to film plane distance for a hyperfocal setting for a particular lens for a couple of apetures, say f 16 and f 32. The lens is a Super angulon 90 F8. I was planning on having three settings for the lens, one focussed on infinity (the lens is used here most of the time), one hyperfocal at f 16 and one hyperfocal at f 32 (i need to start including some foreground interest in my photos, thus this requirement). Do you find the hyperfocal distance through trial and error by taking photos at various distanced subjects, focus settings and apetures, or is there some sort of mathematical way i can determine it. My usual way of focussing is ground glass viewing. Currently there are no focus setting marks on the camera i have built (but i realize i will have to do so if i want to change the focussing)

Hello

 

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I am an beginning photographer and have been self taught. I got hooked when i visited a local photo gallery (Ken Duncan) here in Sydney, Australia. I have become interested in medium format 6x17 photography and since then have made my own 617 camera, with an SA90 F8, and set up my darkroom for producing ilfochromes. I shoot velvia and provia. I have just finished my first batch of prints and I am very pleased with the results (sharpness/colour saturation and balance/exposure). I have learnt so much from here, (thanks to all) at the LF BBS and, lots and lots of books from the library. My problem is that amongst all the technical learning about taking photos and printing them, and the technical aspects of film and paper (which i have found most interesting) i seem to have a much reduced skill in taking a good photo (at least what i think is a good one). I seem to be making so many decisions now when i go out to take pics, and with poor results. Before i got really interested in photography I was just taking snapshot 35mm, and looking back at them they seem to be better. I always tried to keep "rules" out of taking pictures but perhaps all the technical side has influenced me into thinking too much before opening the shutter? The thought and process of LF was the thing i was most interested in when i got started, but has that been my own worst enemy?? Does anyone have any experiences here??

If i am not mistaken, the focus is not part of the equation, just

the f stop (and you're shutter speed and film speed of course!!).

Does anyone out there know what power rating the have lamps that were originally supplied with the Dusrst labator 138? I have just used mine (second hand) for the first time. It has 2 x 1000W lamps. The head gets VERY hot for anything over 20 sec. (yes the fan is running). Either this is normal or I am wondering if they are supposed to be 500W instead..

 

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Secondly i heard from an ilford rep here in Aus that leaking rollers on a CAP 40 processor will cause contamination. I agree with him but looking at the design the gap between rollers would have to be quite big before this happens, as the join betwwen the rollers is above the height of the chemical....any contamination I would think would just be the usual carryover. any experiences someone has had would be great to hear from.

I hear that ilfochromes should be mounted with non-buffered matboard, to prevent the alkaline buffering chemical in buffered mat boards from affecting the print. Has anyone had any experience with degredation of prints with buffered mats? I cant seem to find any un buffered here in Australia.

 

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Thanks

I have not, and cannot see any advantages that a point source

enlarger would provide. Parrallel light rays are what you want going

through your negative/transparency, a point source of light is the

worst place to start!

Hello all

Does anyone have any experience in washing large (16"x48" and 12"x36") ilfochrome panoramic prints after being processed from a CAP40? My concern is by the time the end of the print emegers form the processor the fixer will be well and truly dry, and may either be damaging to the print quality or too hard to remove when washing. Perhaps someone out there has an idea or experince in washing the print progressively as it emegres from a processor such as this????? ie something like a homemade wash unit like the ICP/IWD

 

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Thanks for any info you can provide.

I only hope they keep producing velvia and ilfochrome classic,

that'll do me.....

Hello all

 

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Does anyone have any experience in washing large (16"x48" and 12"x36") ilfochrome panoramic prints after being processed from a CAP40? My concern is by the time the end of the print emegers form the processor the fixer will be well and truly dry, and may either be damaging to the print quality or too hard to remove when washing. Perhaps someone out there has an idea or experince in washing the print progressively as it emegres from a processor such as this?????

 

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Thanks for any info you can provide.

I dont know much about your enlarger but i think that the lamp would

operate off 82V as the if is was designed to run off 110V there would

be no way the regulator could compensate for any drop in power from

the power piont below 110V. If you cannot get a circuit diagram for

your enlarger try using a variac instead of a stepdown transformer.

You can adjust the output voltage. There will still be variences

though as it will not be regulated, but the variations will be

reduced as a function of the stepdown the variac provides (just like

a transformer). You may have to keep an eye on the voltage at the

lamp, hopefully youre exposures dont last for too long as you wont

be able to adjsut while your burning and doging!!

Sure, the focal length of lens you use is one of many artistic tools

a photographer can use, but from a purely mathematical and technical

point of view the "normal lens" term came about because apparently

that is approximately what angle of view the human eye sees. (once

again this is subject to people's artistic views on the world, many

would not agree with this).

 

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Never the less a "normal " lens for a format equals approxiamtely the

measurement from corner to corner, diagonally, accross the negative

size for the format in question. (ie 35mm format approx 45-50mm)

 

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an 8"x10" LF camera may use a 300mm+ lens for the same artistic

effect. It is not written in stone and never should be

 

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The term "normal" therefore was some*ones* idea of what a "normal"

field of view was at the time he or she invented the term.

 

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These simple terms do however help out the point and shoot people and

thats all they are designed for i think........

Has anyone ever used spray type contact adhesive for mounting ilfochromes on a backboard? I know it wouldn't be archival, but i cannot afford the Scotch PMA #568 that i would like to use. Perhaps someone has another alternative to these....?

Hello

 

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I have a CAP40 cibachrome processor that i plan to process ilfochrome in.(process P30). The operating instructions mention that an additive called "DEZ30" is required to be added to the developer for proper operation. I was wondering if anyone out there knows:

 

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1. is this additive still avaliable and if so where from (i live in Sydney

Australia)

 

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2. Is it still required (have the chemicals advanced so the additive is not

required?

 

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Secondly i plan to purchase a roll of ilfochrome paper 30cm x 50m. If i were to use this roll a small amount at a time over approx 6 months what would be the best way to store it? I have thought about a light tight dispenser that i keep in the fridge, and unrolling some in the darkroom, cutting it off and then closing the light tight container and returning it to the fridge. Would this work? Or would the moisture formed on the paper when removed from the

fridge damage it?

 

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Thanks for your time

 

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Here's cheers for the LF BBS!!

 

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Phillip Brammer

for a nickel how could you go wrong?

I am about to make my first prints on ilfochrome, using a 5x7 enlarger and a cap40 processor. Does anybody have some simple and effective way of hloding paper flat? I will be using 16x20 and 20x24 and i am planning on making a vacuum easel for large (50") prints, format 6x17cm.

 

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How "curly" is ilfochrome when first removed from the pack? would just a frame made from thick cardboard be ok and no vacuum for the smaller prints, and what suggestions would people have on the construction of my vacuum easel for the larger prints?

 

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Gee i ask lots of questions....!

 

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any help would be great!

 

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PS cheers to the LF BBS!!!!!!!!!!!!

F stop is the ratio between the focal length of the lens to the

diameter of the apeture. For example, a lens with a focal length of

200mm with an apeture of 20mm has an f stop (f ratio) of f10

(200/20=10). All the best with your experiments and let me know how

you go!! Im all for home built stuff.

Hello

 

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I am wondering if anyone reading has had any experience with these lenses, specifically a 90mm F6.8 Angulon (not super) and a later 90mm F8 90mm Super Angulon (serial number 8896959).

 

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I am currently using the angulon (not super) for use with my 6 x 17 format camera (home made). As one could imagine there is quite a bit of light fall of towards the edges of the frame, and also i exclusively use the lens at F32 (minimum) to maximise sharpness at the edge of field. These two limitations I was prepared for when I purchased the lens, however my current budget will allow me to purchase a more suitable lens.

 

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My question is would the super angulon i mention above improve on these limitations? Does a Super angulon have less light drop off than an angulon and would it be useable at larger apetures on 6x17 than my angulon?. Would it be an appreciable amount better? I know all opinions are individual but that's all I'm after

 

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Or should i look for another lens, or perhaps save for a modern SA90 5.6 XL??

 

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My thanks and appreciation for your reply.

Lots of you will be laughing at me for asking this, but i need to know:

 

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how do i open my cardboard envelope with ilfochrome papers inside? are the sheets (12x16) individually wrapped in light tight material or do i have to open the main envelope in darkness?

 

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Also does any one know an effective way to rinse and dry an ilforchrome print after it has been processed? I will be using a CAP40 processor. Is rinsing with a hand help spray nozzle in the bath followed by air drying on some flyscreen (emulsion up of course!!) ok?

Hello

 

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I have recently purchased a Durst CLS 300 5 x 7 enlarger. I have found the dichroic filters to be very dusty. What would be the best way to clean them if dry compressed air does not? The filters are quite large and i want to be very careful, as they are expensive.

 

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Also there are some dichroic mirrors near the lamps to direct the light to the fliters and diffusion chamber. I am assuming they reflect visible and transmit IR in order to reduce heat. The coating seems to be flaking off, as they are very close to a 1000W halogen lamp and would get very hot (i assume this is why they are flaking). The unit is already fan cooled. Does anyone know of any place that may recoat these??

 

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Thanks for any info

 

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Phil Brammer,

Sydney, Australia

Hello

 

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I was reading the LF BBS and noticed a gentleman owned a 0.45 heliopan center weighted ND filter. I would like to find one. I am using a Schneider Angulon 90mm on 6 x 17 and am noticing (as one would expect) light fall off at f32 (min apeture). A SA90XL 5.6 would be great but I have to find that second job yet.

 

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Does anyone know where to get such a filter? Do they come in differing levels of transmissibility change as you approach the circumfrence? I live in Australia and i havent found one yet...! I have had a look on at the Heliopan site but no no avail....any thoughts or experiences??

 

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Ps please dont tell me to get another lens!!

Ellis....

 

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I see you have a center weighted ND filter. I am using a Schneider

Angulon 90mm on 6 x 17 and am noticing (as one would expect) light

fall off at f32. A SA90 XL 5.6 would be great, but ive gotta find

that second job yet. Where did you get yours from? I live in

Australia and i havent found one yet...! I have had a look on at the

heliopan site but no no avail....

Im glad someone said that.....!

Hello

 

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I am building a 5 x 7 colour enlarger and i plan to use a technique that phillips used in their PCS 130 enlarger, which had RGB lamps which varied in intensity to control colour. The filters were dichroic. Only one exposure was required.

 

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From what i can understand, the reason that primary colours were not used by the public for printing when using one white light and filter packs is that by using a set of RBG additive filters, the first filter would block the other two colours from reaching the next filter in the pack, so therefore the subtractive process was used. However you could do three seperate exposures, red,green, and Blue when using the additive system, too time consuming for the general population.

 

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My question is would there be a specific bandwidth of filter for red green and blue for my three colour enlarger so that all colours would be availiable, or not?. Could i just use coloured gels that they use in theatre spot lights?? also, is the only benifit of dichroic filters be freedom from fading (ie increased repeatability and life?)

 

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Any thoughts would be appreciated

 

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Thanks,

 

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Phil