amauri_nunes

The bag is sold, thanks

Hello,

I bought this new many years ago but have not used it for some time.

I have all the attachments it originally came with, instructions and software.

Not sure what it is worth, hopefully some one here can make better use of it.

How about $500 OBO? I can send photos if interested.

I'm in So Calif and willing to pack it up and ship, or meet up for locals.

Thanks

Anyone have an extra M400 available to sell?

Thanks

Good condition Domke J3 journalist bag, black color.

Domke J-3 Journalist Shoulder Bag

 

Bought it new several years ago and haven't used it much.

Had no idea the retail price is so high, B&H sells it for $172 last I looked.

 

I'd like $59 plus $15 postage.

 

 

 

I wouldn't hesitate to send it in if mine had a lot of usage, like 100k + clicks.

 

What worries me most is that I've read several reports where the same D750 had to go back again for the same shutter problem, in some cases three or four times.

I realize that much of what we see on the web is exaggerated hear say... but even if a small percentage of reported reccurring failures are true, that kind of tells me that the replacement parts are not much better than the original.

 

What I really need to do is spend less time on the internet :rolleyes:

Hello everyone.

 

I bought my D750 back in Nov 2014 and have not experienced any issues at all.

Recently I stumbled onto the service advisory that applies to my serial number.

 

I've always followed the "don't fix what isn't broken" rule and am reluctant to send it in for a new shutter.

I'm a retired mechanic and use my D750 lightly, about 15k shutter clicks so far.

 

I know this is a decision that only I can make, but would like to hear opinions/advise from those who own and use the D750 a lot more than I do.

 

Should I send a perfectly good working camera in to Nikon USA for a new shutter?

 

Thanks

Hello,

I'm considering the 420EX for my EOS-10d with a 17-40L lens.

I realize that the angle of coverage of the 420 is 24-105mm but the

1.6 factor of the 10d makes that lens equal to a 27-64mm.

Am I thinking correctly here or do I need a flash with wider angle of

coverage?

 

Thanks

Simon,

 

I'd like to ask your opinion on the 5400 as to how well it focuses in dim light situations.

I've been comparing specs between several cameras in this price range and was surprised to see that the 5400 does not have any AF Assist lighting.

 

Thanks

The Vivitar TTL adapter for the F3 is not compatible with Nikon flashes in TTL mode.

I think it was originally designed for TTL use with a Vivitar brand flash.

There has been a lot of debate about the Vivitar adapter, the Nikon AS-17 is the only adapter that works for sure.

The answer to the first two questions is no. I use an FM3a with the SB-27 and SB-80dx. Aperture and ISO information are not used by the flash in TTL mode, only in Auto Thyristor mode. In TTL Flash mode the flash output is entirely controlled by the FM3a, it tells the flash when to quench.

>>What does THAT button do? (FM3A flash comp)<<

 

When you press and hold "THAT" button while shooting, the FM3a will underexpose the flash output by one stop. You can test it out by using a flash exposure meter. This button is a welcome addition on the FM3a because you can't set the flash exposure separately on those earlier TTL-Flash cameras (FE-2, FA, FG, F3). Newer cameras, N6000 and up, allow flash exposure compensation to be set on the flash itself. I've used my FM3a with several Nikon flashes; SB-15, SB-24, SB-26, SB-27 & my new SB-80dx, also a Metz MZ54 w/Nikon module. All exposed correctly in TTL mode.

If it was my only camera, the FM3a.

To me, the F3 is better in every way except the slow flash synch.

I especially like the ergonomics on the F3, the grip and extra weight help me keep it steady at lower speeds. I use an FE2 for flash.

The SD-8 is compact, light weight, uses cheap batteries and recycles the flash very quickly. I purchased a used one for $75.

The FM2n is not TTL flash capable so any auto thyristor type flash would work. The Vivitar 283 is a classic and can be had new for $75.

You�ll need a diffuser for 20mm wide angle coverage.

Hello Jim,

 

The FE2 and FM3a are both OTF-TTL capable, I would look for a used SB-24.

It has the same guide number as the latest Nikon flashes (118' @35mm w/100-ISO), a 24-85 zoom head with bounce/swivel and is easy to find in good used condition for less than $150.

http://www.nikonlinks.com/flash.htm here is a good link with info on all Nikon Flashes.

I would have thought that the current Summilux 50 would have very good "bokeh" since it has 12 aperture blades.

The M6 non-ttl triggers the flash via mechanical contacts and should be fine with any ISO hot shoe type flash.

The FM3A screen will fit the FE-2 and is supposed to be a little brighter.

Mike,

Using the ASA or exposure compensation dials will affect both the flash and ambient exposures.

Fredrik wants to underexpose the flash only.

I don�t know of any flash that allows flash exposure compensation in TTL mode for the F3.

The first few Nikons with OTF-TTL flash control (F3, FE-2, FA, FG) are not capable of adjusting over/under exposure of the flash output in TTL mode. The easiest way is to use auto thysristor mode.

The exposure compensation on the SB-24 and others like it has no effect on these cameras while in TTL mode.

The method I use for daylight fill flash with -2 stops flash compensation in TTL mode is as follows:

 

1-) set your camera to manual mode.

2-) set the shutter to flash sync speed.

3-) dial in -2 stops under exposure compensation on the body.

4-) meter and set your aperture to +2 stops.

5-) set your flash to TTL mode, turn it on and shoot.

 

This is simpler than it seems and works perfectly, you�re fooling the camera to underexpose the flash output but setting the aperture to the correct exposure.

The biggest problem with the F3 in flash mode, besides the slow sync speed, is that the meter turns off as soon as the flash turns on. You have to meter with the flash turned off.

The new AS-17 flash coupler for the F3 allows you to use any Nikon TTL flash on the F3 in TTL mode and it does have a 1/3 stop compensation switch (not much for $150).

I have to sell off some gear and am having a tough time deciding what

to sell. I have a 50/1.4 and a 50/1.8, both AIS in mint condition.

Many think that the 50/1.8 is the better lens. What do you think?

I think there is a release lever for the rewind knob.

Look for a little lever on the side of the knob that faces the back of the camera, slide it and lift the rewind knob.

FYI

 

Dels's in Santa Barbara has been closed for a few years, too bad, they had lots of good stuff on hand.

Just be careful when using a non/Nikon flash, some older units like my 283 that was made in Japan (now they're made in China) has a very high trigger voltage, 265-VDC when measuring between ground and the synch terminal. Check out this link: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html If you use a flash with more than a 10-Volt trigger you could damage the TTL circuit on the FM3A. You should buy a Nikon dedicated type flash and take advantage of the TTL-OTF flash feature of your camera. The SB-27 is very powerful (about 1.5 stops less than SB-28), has all the functions and features and is fairly small. I picked up a used one for $85 at a show last weekend.

Your step by step procedure differs from what I use, taking up the film slack with the rewind crank should be the last step.

When I tried doing it your way the film always pulls out of the take-up spool.