cliff_henry

December 20, 2013

You might try contacting some of the guys on these sites as they seem to have a direct line to Fujifilm: <a href="http://www.fujixseries.com/">http://www.fujixseries.com/</a>

<a href="http://www.fujirumors.com/category/news/">http://www.fujirumors.com/category/news/</a>

December 17, 2013

I was in the same boat as you - a pack full of Canon high-end bodies and L glass - 17mm to 300 f2.8 and full range in between - but I finally tired of the weight. I purchased a Fujifilm X Pro1 and I'm loving the quaility of the images and the light weight. Yes, I know it's not a full frame but you might be surprised when you compare its images side-by-side with a full frame. There is already a good range of lenses available - 14 f2.8, 18 f2, 23 f1.4, 27 f2.8, 35 f1.4, 60 Macro f2.4, 18-55 IS f2.8, and 55-200 IS f3.5 and more to come like the 56 f1.2 in Jan. '14 - and they are second to none in quaility. Additionally, Zeiss has a 12mm f2.8 and a 32 1/8 available. If you have an interest there are plenty of reviews to be found on google.

December 9, 2013

Thanks for the replies.

John - the Botzilla site was the one I was searching for - thanks.

Robin & Charles - my research found that the Canon and Fuji hot shoe pins are compatible and my 550ex's are useable either directly on the hot shoe or with the OC-E2, but you are correct that the flash output will have to be set manually. Actually, Fuji recommends using the Canon OC-E2 with their flash since they don't offer an off camera cord. I expect the ST-E2 will also signal the 550ex to fire since pins are compatible but I haven't found anyone that has tried it so I'll have to test that myself.

Thanks again, PN is the best.

December 7, 2013

I am seeking help. I have three Canon 550EX speedlites and a ST-E2 transmitter that I used when I was shooting weddings professionally. I still use them occasionally on my 7D and G9 for snaps. I recently starting shooting with a Fujifilm X Pro-1 for a lighter kit when traveling.

I recently shot a wedding, as a guest not the paid pro, with the X Pro1 and Fuji's EF-X20 flash and I am unhappy with the results. I'd like to try using the 550EX's either on the X Pro 1 hot shoe or with the ST-E2 or with an OC-E2 cord.

Fuji's manual states not to use any flash units that apply over 300V to the camera hot shoe.

I know there used to be a web site that listed the voltage of many flashes, but I can't locate it on google. I also searched Canon's site and on this site without results.

Can anyone point me to a site that will give me the hot shoe voltage of the 550ex? Would the ST-E2 also apply a voltage to the hot shoe? If so, I also need to find what that voltage is.

Any assistance either from someone's first hand knowledge or pointing me to a site would be greatly appreciated.

Cliff

September 21, 2013

Ruslan, Sorry to hear you are not happy w/X-Pro 1. I shot Canon for many years, even turned pro after retiring and shot weddings for three years, and I still have that kit. I recently purchased the X-Pro 1 to give me a lighter kit for travel. I made two trips with it this summer, one to CO and one to AK. The X Pro 1 preformed great and my images are outstanding. Only problems were mine because I had not learned all the workings of the camera.

I don't know what you were expecting from the X Pro 1 but you say not being able to add film simulation to a RAW file is a "minus". What other camera systerm offers you the ability to add film simulations to your RAW files? Better yet, what other camera offers you ability to add film simulations at all?

Good luck.

September 19, 2013

I scanned the Silkypix digital manual supplied with my copy of the software and found no reference to film simulation. Neither could I find the answer in the X-Pro 1's manual. However, in Rico Pfirstinger's book, Mastering the Fujifilm X-Pro 1, pub. by Rocky Nook Inc, on page 220 he state any film simulation can be added to a saved RAW file using the X-Pro 1's internal raw converter.

I suggest you ask you question again here: <a href="http://www.fujixseries.com/">http://www.fujixseries.com/</a>

April 30, 2013

I am moving from EOS system to the X-Pro 1. I shot weddings for several years w/EOS and still have eq. although I don't do weddings any longer. Just ordered the X-Pro 1 to lighten the load when traveling. Also ordered 14mm 2.8 and 35mm 1.4 lenses.

I'm unsure about which flashes I could or should use. I have 3 Canon 550EX flashes and a ST-E2 transmitter as well as several OCSC-2. Can anyone advise if any of this system is compatible w/X-Pro 1?

The 550EX is rather large as a travel flash and I would prefer something smaller. I could use it for family snaps when not traveling. The Fuji EF-X20 is nice size but pricy and unavailable currently and I'm preparing for a trip shortly.

Anyone have any experience w/other brands on the X-Pro 1? I prefer as automatic a flash system as possible.

I did a PN search and a Google search without satisfactory result. Can anyone assist?

Thanks, Cliff

April 14, 2013

So sorry to hear the news about Nadine. I've been an infrequent visitor on this thread since retiring but I do still check in occasionally.

I remember when Nadine became moderator of this thread. When I was starting my second career shooting weddings she was a great help. She always had a way of explaining things with a simple clarity, which moved me up the learning curve very quickly.

She will be missed. RIP

March 31, 2011

My 7D dial has moved a few times. It is a faulty design by Canon. I'm with Bob Atkins - if it was a free conversion, read fix, I'd have it done - but since I don't shoot professionally any longer I'm not paying $100 to fix something Canon got wrong.

Canon should "man up" and fix their mistakes for free. Why should we have to pay $1500 plus and then turn-a-round and pay again to fix something that was wrong in the first place? Come on Canon, do the right thing.

July 23, 2010

I use my 550EX on my G9 and for the most part it works fine. Only feature I miss from DSLR is auto flash when in camera M mode. In camera M mode flash also become manual and must be compensated manually for correct flash exposure.

February 28, 2010

Ryan,

Josh did a good job with this article and this would be a good place to start:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment">http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment</a>

You have what John Shaw called "lens lust". In your case it appears you have "equipment lust" LOL

There is nothing wrong with having good equipment, in fact I have a little lens lust myself. However, the kit you now have is top of the line and you will be hard pressed to improve your IQ with other eq. I would add at least one fast prime like 50 1.4 and second 580 flash. The faster primes will give you some additional creativity. However, I've found I don't have a shooting style that allows me to constantly change lenses.

Great images are made by photographers appling their talents not cameras or lenses!

Good luck.

Cliff

February 1, 2010

Thanks Nadine. Great job!

December 1, 2009

Excellent job Marc!

Thanks for all the helpful work you put into this Master Lesson.

Cliff

November 7, 2009

From this range outdoors, will any softening of the light be apparent with the softbox attached as opposed to the flash unit being used without any attachment?

In a word, No.

You might consider an umbrella with a cover on it. Some shooters us these but they require a lot of light. You can use a double bracket and shoot two speedlites into it, but it will still need to be fairly close to subject.

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/109113-REG/Photek_SL_5000_S_Softlighter_II_7mm_Shaft.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/109113-REG/Photek_SL_5000_S_Softlighter_II_7mm_Shaft.html</a>

<a href="http://www.denisreggie.net/gear.html">http://www.denisreggie.net/gear.html</a>

If conditions are right you can also use a reflector outdoors.

I use a Sto-Fen on my 550EX's, indoors or out, and tilt the head up 30~45 degrees.

You lose light when you use a modifier. Your 430EX is alreay on the light side.

November 7, 2009

LQ softbox works with my 550EX's and ST-E2 also. I don't know how you plan to use the LQ softbox, but you should be aware that there is little effect from it if main subject is more than a couple of feet away. I use mine for detail wedding shots, rings, flowers, cake etc with a Macro lens, and it helps soften the light. If you are shooting at longer distances I would suggest another light modifier. Do a search on PN, there are lots to choose from.

Good luck,

Cliff

October 7, 2009

Peter,

Could you get your wife to call my wife? Nice trip!

I haven't been to Monument Valley in several years so things may have changed, but here is what I know:

There are guides available at the Visitors' Center - probably best to book the evening before you want to go so you can get an early start. Guides have jeeps or trucks that take several people at a time. They make a loop through the valley stopping for picture taking. You can book a guide to take only you and your wife and he will stop wherever and whenever you want; it's more expensive of course. You can also drive your own vehicle into the valley althought you cannot go every where the guides go. From the Visitors' Center you look north and east into the valley and you can get some nice shots from there without actually going into the valley. As always, best light will be until about 10AM or after 4PM. If you want to prebook a guide you could probably call the visitors' center and they could set that up for you.

This is how it was the last time I was there, maybe things haven't changed to much.

Have fun!

Cliff

September 6, 2009

I was looking for the EF 24-105 f/4 L IS USM lens at BH photo. One labeled (White Box) cost $100 less than the non "white box" EF 24-105 lens. What is a "White Box" lens?

Some of the new listing on BH Photo are confusing. I have been a long time customer there and yesterday I just noticed the "White Box" lenses. I don't know what that means but I would second Mendel's suggestion and say ask BH. I have always found BH to be straight shooters.

I can't find the $100 difference. There is a $35 difference between non-White Box USA and White Box import for this particular lens. There is a $20 difference between non-White Box USA and White Box USA. This would tell me that the difference is not just import or non-import.

I hope BH will clarify this!

Cliff

August 8, 2009

Steve,

Suggest you look here - click on Wedding Equipment Guide under Tips & Advice:

<a href="../learn/wedding">http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/</a>

July 29, 2009

Have a look at Stephen's lessons #2 & #3 here:

<a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/content/Speedlite/index.html">http://www.usa.canon.com/content/Speedlite/index.html</a>

This should anwser your questions.

Cliff

July 26, 2009

Steve, The 1600 is a little large but you may need it depending on how much gear you want to carry - it gets very heavy so I use it on a rolling luggage carrier. I also use a 1500, which is a little small, so I use a shoulder bag also when using it. You can see pictures of both my 1600 & 1500 loaded for action here (scroll half-way down):

<a href="http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00FVcW">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00FVcW</a>

You can find all Pelican dementions on their web site.

July 7, 2009

A B.

Here is a good place to start:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment">http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment</a>

May 28, 2009

Looks interesting, but do they sell suspenders with it? I think I would need them to keep my pants up with those heavy cameras attached to my belt. LOL

May 5, 2009

Shane,

Is a battery pack necessary?

No! You can shoot small or large wedidings without a battery pack - just have extra batteries available and ready to install. I like rechargeables.

But I was thinking still for recyle time a battery pack woudl be helpful.

You are correct in this assumption and that is why I have used a battery pack on my 550EX for years. I have three 550EX's but use the pack only on the hot shoe flash. When I have the extra 550's set-up for formals I don't need the quicker recycle times.

I have a Canon Transistor Battery Pack E. It uses 6 "C" size batteries. I purchased rechargeable batteries when I bought the pack and they have lasted for years. This pack is discontinued and that is good as it is heavy and a little large to have hanging over your shoulder for an 8 hour wedding.

If I were going to purchase a pack today I would look seriously at the CP-E3, althought there are several other brands available which should be investagated (Googled).

Cliff

May 3, 2009

Zvia,

I've never been to Alaska but I've shot a lot of wildlife and landscapes all through the Rockies. I did outfit my son with a camera kit for the summer he worked in Alaska. He had a FF, film, body, a 20-35, 35-105, 100-300, and a 400 + 1.4x. He got the traditional bear-catching- salmon at the water falls shots mostly using the 100-300. However, the observation platform at Katmai is close the the falls.

After reading your post my first suggestion was going to be the 100-400 + 1.4x. I based this on my own experience shooting wildlife in Yellowstone - with wildlife more reach is better. I shoot FF bodies with 300 2.8L + 1.4 and/or 2.0 ext. However, after reading your follow-up post and the activities you have planned, I think the combo of 17-55 and 70-200 + 1.4 ext. would serve you fine. My personal preference would be for a wider WA and a faster tele, especially when you start adding tele-extenders. I would suggest a tripod for those low-light shots.

Sounds like a great trip, have fun.

Cliff

April 22, 2009

Sandy,

I think you've got it - lens lust that is. Like Marius said, you can shoot an entire wedding with a standard lens, i.e. 35 on the 40D and 50 on the 5D. Many good photographers have done it this way for years. But don't worry, I've had lens lust for years and it's not fatal but it can be expensive.

I own a full complement of lenses: 16-35L, 24-70L, 70-200L, 24T/SL, 50 1.4, 85 1.2L, 100 Macro, 135 SF, 300L, 1.4 ext., 2.0 ext., and a mix of FF and crop bodies.

Over several years of shooting weddings this is what I've found I use:

I have shot entire weddings w/24-70 on FF and/or crop body.

I use 16-35 only if getting ready room is small and some times during dancing.

I use 70-200 during ceremony if I'm not allowed to move in close, otherwise I use 85 sometimes. Also use 70-200 on tripod from back of church; have had to add 1.4 ext. a few times. On very few occasions I have had to use 300 from back of a big church.

I have use 24 T/S a few time to shoot an establishing shot of the church - I didn't buy it for weddings.

I almost always use 100 Macro for detail shots. If short on time I have used 24-70 for these.

I use 50 1.4 and 85L for low light shots at reception.

I use 85L and 70-200L for candid and/or portrait shots at reception.

Early in my wedding career I used 135 SF but now use Zeiss Softar filter instead for soft effect shots.

I tried shooting with two bodies to have a mix of lenses quickly avaiable, but I found I spent to much time thinking about which camera to use and missed to many shots. I only shoot with one body and use another for backup.

Having to much equipment can be a hindrance, not to mention heavy. I have learned that no amount of logic will help with lens lust, so I say go spend until you are satisfied.

And don't forget to have fun!

Cliff

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