mikemeskin

OK, here is the update,- problem solved! All i had to do was to take off the Xume magnetic filter adapter! Somehow is was messing up the lens function.

Hi all,

 

I have a problem with my sony 28mm f2.0 lens, - after having mounted it on my old NEX-5n, it no longer opens to full aperture of f2.0, only to to f3.5. It does not focus correctly, and there is now a massive barrel distortion. This problem is apparent on both, my 5N and A7r II. It looks like somehow the lens firmware got corrupted by Nex-5N. I called sony tech support, and they told me to send it in for repairs. It's out of warranty, the repair will cost an arm and a leg. There are no firmware updates available for this lens, so no way to refresh it. I do not understand how 5N could have messed up the lens firmware. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

<p>Thank you for your advice. I mounted the light on a Smith-Victor stand without a problem. So I figure, maybe it's the problem with the Avenger mount. I have seen this sort of mismatch before. Anyway, a replacement baby plate is in the mail, we'll see how it works out -<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/33161-REG/Matthews_429041_Baby_Plate_3.html<br>

Thanks again, mike</p>

<p>Is there a difference between a 5/8" stud and 5/8" "baby" mounts? I recently bought an Avenger <strong>baby plate</strong> in order to mount a fluorescent flood light to the ceiling. The light with the standard female 5/8" base does not mount very well on the baby plate, - after I tighten the set screw, it ends up hanging at an angle. The connection is secure, but being a neurotic nitpicker, i would like it to mount properly. Is "baby" some kind of proprietary mount different from the regular 5/8" stud?<br>

Here is a link to the baby plate on B&H site:<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/67894-REG/Avenger_F805_F805_Baby_Wall_Plate.html<br>

I'll appreciate any kind of advice. Thanks, mike</p>

<p>Dear Nadine, Thank you so much for your advice! It's invaluable! I now realize that what I would like is to have a more directional key light, since there should be plenty of ambient fill in the room. The idea of using manually set room lights can be very useful in other situations, and I will keep it in mind for the future. I might try the Pocket wizards "Mini and Flex" with a flash on a stick, as I do not feel confident enough to try manual flash in a reception yet. </p>

<p>Here is a question for the lighting experts. - What is the best way to shoot with an off-camera flash during the reception?<br>

The plan is to have an assistant carrying a monopod with a small softbox and a shoe mounted flash. One option is to use TTL Control radio slaves. - I am considering splurging out for Radio Poppers, or Pocket Wizard's mini TT1 and Flex TT1, but they are pretty expensive. Another option is to use manual flash triggered by ebay slaves. This may be problematic, because I would have to constantly adjust the aperture for different distances. I am worried that this approach would be too limiting. One more possibility is to fill the reception room with slaved flashes, all aimed at the ceiling and walls, triggered by rental pocket wizards. This could be a problem, because light stands can be a danger to the tipsy wedding guests. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>Hi Neil, Thanks for the tip on using Nikon flashes, maybe I'll grab an SB-27. I almost never shoot the flash head-on, always bounce. A TTL flash does it much better then auto. I took some pictures at the Halloween parade last year with my 5D by bouncing a flash off the ground. The idea was to try a similar approach with an M6. Here is a link:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24959222@N06/sets/72157608572065596/</p>

 

<p>Hi John, Thank you for your answer. I was thinking of taking night time pictures, not expecting shutter speeds above 1/50 or even 1/30. Anyway, it seems like I found a confirmative answer on rangefinder forum:<br>

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77042<br>

It looks like this might be doable. Thanks again, Mike</p>

<p>Hello, has anybody tried using this flash on a Leica M6 classic, or Zeiss Ikon? It's supposed to have something like an auto-thristor mode, but I am not sure if this feature is designed to work only with EOS cameras. Does it allow to manually set apertures for automatic flash, like my Sunpak auto 383 does? The reason I am asking is that I like to shoot Delta 3200 rated at 1000 with f1.4 lenses wide open. The idea is to be able to balance flash without overpowering ambient light at these settings. My Metz 40Mz-1i is a pretty good flash, but it's getting old, and in auto mode it only allows F2.0 at ISO 500, which is 2 stops above what I would like to use. Also if the 580ex ii works as an auto flash, I would be able to use it on both, my Leica, and digital canon cameras. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks, mike</p>

<p>Thank you so much for all your answers. Now I feel more confident about this repair. I will send it to DAG.</p>

<p>Hello... I just discovered a light haze on the inside of the back element of my 90mm summicron. It only becomes visible when I shine a flash light through the lens and only at a certain angle. Under ordinary light the lens appears to be very clean. Is this something that may cause any loss of contrast? I am afraid eventually it may turn into fungus and etch the glass. The pictures it turns out seem to have good contrast and sharpness. I took it to a local repair shop and the tech told me not to bother fixing it. He said the coating on the inside surfaces was very delicate and cleaning it may make things worse then they are now, he also mentioned that it maybe a part of a block of elements that should not be separated, or else the lens may not perform very well after the repair. I thought the delicate coating on the inside surfaces was found only on the older lenses, from the 50's, also the diagram of this lens shows that the back element is a single lens, not cemented with any other. Did anybody here had any experience with this type of repair? If I send it in to DAG, can I just ask him if it makes sense to fix it? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks, Mike</p>

Hi All,

 

Could anybody help me with this - It looks like my 420EX speedlite is not operating to factory specs. It blows out everything in hi-speed

mode. It simply blasts at full charge. When I switch to normal X-sync. it works well. My 550EX works great in both modes. The HSS mode

used to work OK on this flash. I discovered it today when I was shooting an outdoor portrait, using an umbrella and a custom made 12 ft.

TTL cord. Normally the hi-speed sync would not work with this cord. This time I forgot to switch my flash back to x-sync. Is it possible that

by using this cord I ruined the flash? I have a photo shoot coming up in just a week and have to decide if I should quickly order a

replacement flash. I would much prefer to fix my 420, if it's possible. Any advice will be much appreciated.

The Elan 7n is much lighter, smaller and quieter. 1V has very accurate focus, and a great finder, but it's big and loud.

Canon used to offer a CD with additional custom functions for 1V, one of these CFs allowed to quiet down the shutter and

film advance, but this CD is no longer available. I bought a 7n to replace my 1V and it's now my main Canon film body,

however I decided not to sell the 1V because I do not believe that the Elan is built to last. Considering the price difference,

it almost makes sense to keep both. I got mine used for $150.

I thought about replacing the cells myself, but decided against it and sent the battery to Quantum. I am pretty sure that

with my knowledge of electical wiring, I would make some well done barbecue instead of fixing it. I asked Quantum about

this problem and they suggested that the battery should not be stored discharged, and if not used regularly, it should be

recharged at least once every 2 months. Thanks for all your help!

Thank you so much for all your answers. My 2x2 is about 4 years old. I never rechareged it after use, only before. This

must be the problem. I should've read the instructions more carefully. I will try to "rejuviante" it and if it does not work, I will

send it to Quantum.

Here is something else that's unusual - just before I got online to post my question, I set the battery to charge . Normally it

would take at least several hours, but it charged fully within 15 minutes after I plugged it in. It was completely drained, and

now 15 minutes later it's fully charged...

It seems like my my quantum turbo 2x2 has developed a problem - the last time I shot a wedding it seemed to drain a little faster then

usual. It actually almost ran out of juice by the end of the reception, which never happened before. Just a few weeks ago I recharged it

fully and took a few test shots. Everything seemed OK. I used it again today and the charge gauge showed 3 dots (almost full charge),

however, just after a few test shots it drained out completely and left my 550EX running on the internal batteries. The AA batteries in the

flash were fresh. I was experimenting with hi-speed flash for faster shutter speeds. - could this be a problem? Is it something that can be

remedied without sending it out to Quantum? Any advice will be much appreciated.

Puppy Face - Thank you, that pretty much explains it.

I would not mind if the AF speed was a little slower, but it has to be accurate. I also

used to own an A2, and it mis-focused as much as my Elan 7. I am worried that for the

prosumer bodies canon is using a different focusing algorithm, which is faster, but also

slopier then on the EOS3 and 1v. Elan body is half the weight of 1v, and about half an inch

shorter.

Giampi - Thanks for your advice, maybe I will rent the EOS 3 to try it out.

Puppy Face, - I do not use it with the booster, and it's still too big. I guess I am just spoiled.

In the camera manual it is mentioned that I can program some additional custom functions

using the Canon software (ES-E1). This software would allow me to set a personal custom

function for quiet film advance. Unfortunatelly B&H does not even list it anymore. I am not

even sure if I will be able to install it on my Mac, or how much it would cost. Maybe a canon

repair center can activate this function (CF 21)? I will give them a call today.

My question is how good is 7n in terms of focusing fast primes. Some time ago I used to own an

Elan 7. It was a decent camera, but it could not accurately focus a 50/1.0 lens (I no longer own

either). To address the problem I upgraded to a used 1v. It works perfectly, AF is always accurate.

I love the full-frame finder, solid build, etc., etc. The problem with 1V - it's big, loud and heavy.

With any L-type lens it becomes too much to carry around. I am thinking of replacing it with an

Elan 7n. Will I have any problems focusing my primes - 50/1.4 and 135/2? I understand 7n can

focus faster then the previous model, but is it more accurate? I appreciate any advice.

Cliff, you are right, - it will be too much trouble with a heavy zoom, and also It's impossible

to actually zoom while holding the flash at the same time. I think it might work with primes

though. I will try this set-up at the end of the reception, just to see how it works out. Also

thanks for the link, I will order one of these asap! Nadine, thank you for the cool idea!

Thank you so much for all your answers!

Marc, - I actually tried it with the superglue, - glueing the interlock buttons down - it did not

work! I will leave a space in my bag for the flash, or fashion a hook as Nadine suggested. If it

does not work, it should be easy to go back to my regular - flash on camera with Lightsphere

(emergency lunch box) on top. Thanks again, Mike

I would like to use 2 EOS bodies, with 2 ST-E2 transmitters to fire one hand-held flash. This way I can

even try using primes, reduce the number of wires, and carry a back up camera. It would also alow me to

skip the flash bracket, as I can hold the flash and point it in any direction easily, without having to work

the locks on the flash head. The drawback is that I do not have a third hand, which might make changing

lenses a chore. I could fashion a little hand strap attached to the hot shoe, or somehow strap the flash to

the back of my left hand, leaving it free to change the lenses, zoom, etc. Is there anything comercially

made that would allow me to strap the flash to the back of the hand? Has anybody tried this? I wonder if it

will simplify things, or make them more complicated. Any advice will be appreciated, Mike

I had the same problem with mine - DAG replaced it with a new part.