xato

<p>Now that you've taken it out of the box, it's worth a lot less than what it used to be worth.</p>

<p>Gee, I thought your camera would be just like my ZS-7 and that I would suggest turning sharpness up and noise reduction down but alas no dice. Here is the advanced manual for your camera and the only adjustment I see is for something Panny called i.resolution. I've never played with this on my camera but with the ZS-7 you can adjust saturation, sharpness, contrast and noise reduction and has as well the i.resolution thingy.<br>

<a href="http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCZS10_ADV.pdf">http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCZS10_ADV.pdf</a></p>

<p>In addition to the 35-70, 28-85 and 70-200, there was a 35 to 105. As for primes there was, in addition to the 24, 28 and 50/1.8, a 55/2.8 macro, and 50/2 power focus which can be used on the OM-77. Sigma also made a 28-70 and 70-200 zooms as well. If you think the OM-77 is bad, the OM-88 is really terrible. There are no settings at all (except with the adapter). The only benefit to the OM-88 is that the power focus works better than the power focus on the OM-77.</p>

<p><< True. But hopefully that will change this summer.>><br>

That's one half of a hint. What is the rest of the hint? (In the market for an 8000ED or 9000)</p>

<p>Maybe you have the answer but this happened to me when the microprism screen got dislodged with a physical impact.</p>

<p>In addition to the viewfinder being very bright, it is easy to focus when stopped down. I use a Hartblei SR 45mm TS and I to stop it down in order to tilt and see the focus. I can easily focus at f11. Try that with your camera.</p>

 

<p>There's quite a few available on Oboy right now.</p>

 

<p>The 645N which allows for 16 exposures on 120 film due to a more precise transport mechanism presented some problems to people who kept film in the camera for a long period of time. The film would get a slight curl in the middle of the first frame after you let it sit. There were no problems with the frames shot immediately afterward though. The NII allowed you to change between 15 and 16 exposures (factory only I beleive).<br>

Mirror-up function: A new mirror-up position has been added to the drive mode dial. The first press of the shutter release button swings the mirror up and locks it in place; the second press releases the shutter. This new function avoids unwanted camera shake at shutter release and improves exposure accuracy. Many people have disputed the necessity of mirror lock up but it is there in the NII if needed.<br>

You can obtain split image screens for any of the models (although you might have great difficulty in locating one.)<br>

The 645 can be operated without batteries only at 1/60 with no metering. This is just a desert island no 7-11 hypothetical backup.<br>

Choice of EV increments in exposure compensation and auto bracketing: In exposure compensation and auto bracketing modes, the user now has a choice of 1/2EV or 1/3EV increments within a ±3EV range. This allows the user to set the desired compensation value far more easily to create the intended visual effect. A wider range of on-the-film imprinting iformation: The 645NII allows the imprinting of a wider range of photographic data onto the film than was possible with the 645N. The new data includes: total number of film rolls, focusing mode, ISO film speed, use of the AE lock and/or auto bracketing functions, and use of flash synchronization.<br>

Improved Pentax Functions: The Pentax Functions, designed to allow customization of some of the camera's basic functions to suit individual preferences, are now more user-friendly than before. The user can select whether or not the camera identification symbol is added to the on-the-film imprinting data, so that a check can be made afterwards on which camera was used to take a particular roll of film.<br>

Compatibility with new electronic accessories: The 645NII is designed to accept the new generation of electronic accessories, such as the CS-105 and CS-130 Cable Switches and the TS-110 Release Timer Switch, for added convenience.</p>

<p>Might I blaspheme here and suggest the Vivitar/Phoenix 19-35? I find it to be an excellent travel lens, being small, light and sharp. It might fall apart but what the heck, they don't cost that much. My credentials for this opinion is that I have a 16/3.5, 18/3.5, 21/3.5, 24/2.8 and 28/2 Zuikos.</p>

<p>Regarding the Vivitar S1 24-70 it was my favorite walk-around lens. I went through a couple and could not find them anymore. It was very sharp at the 24mm end, and contrasty at the long end.<br>

As to the Carl Zeiss Jenazoom 75-300mm f4.5 5.6 ED IF AF for Olympus, all of my Olympus AF lens have a large piece of plactic that has the electronic contacts that prevent mounting on the regular OM bodies. I don't know how this would work. <br>

One of my personal favorites which hasn't been mentioned here is the Vivitar/Phoenix 19-35 zoom. Very sharp and very light due to all the plastic used. The second zoom not mentioned here is the Tamron 35-105/2.8. I find mine sharper than the S1 35-85.<br>

I second the recommendations on the Tamron 80-200/2.8 and the Vivitar S1 35-85 as well as the Vivitar S1 28-90. </p>

<p>Here it is on the certain well known site:<br>

390141950248</p>

<p>I have an Arsat 30mm fisheye with a Kiev 88 lens thread (yes the coarse one) and there is a single piece adapter to adapt it to the Pentax 645.<br>

I would try to sell it off and get the Pentax 645 300/4 ED IF, which is one of all time sharpest lens available.<br>

Warren</p>

<p>I also have three fisheyes, lens that is. The above mentioned Arsat mated to a Pentax 645, Zuiko 16mm and Digital Zuiko 8mm. By far, the best of the three is the new 8mm. It is quite sharp right out to the edges and evenly illuminated.</p>

<p>Here is a page I made up a while ago for the Hartblei 45 T/S on the P645. <br>

<a href="http://www.120scan.us/p/newtilt.html">http://www.120scan.us/p/newtilt.html</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.mamiya.com/mamiya-645zdb-lenses-sekor-af-28mm-f4.5-d.html">http://www.mamiya.com/mamiya-645zdb-lenses-sekor-af-28mm-f4.5-d.html</a><br>

I've never seen shots of it used on the web though.</p>

<p>What an idea! The original owner coated the inside of his hoods with oil--which acted as an automatic dust catcher.</p>

<p>Vote early and vote often (in this case with your pocketbook)</p>

 

<p><a href="http://www.antiquecameras.net/home.html">http://www.antiquecameras.net/home.html</a></p>

<p>I've settled on the following 49mm filter thread lenses.<br>

49: 21/3.5, 24/2.8, 28/2, 35/2.8, 50/1.8,, 85/2, 100/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/5 + 16/3.5<br>

I can get most of them into a Lowe Orion AW plus an extra body, which is more than I can say for my E330 kit with 11-22, 35 macro and 40-150, although the range is quite a bit longer here.</p>

<p>I vote for P645N. I use the 33-55 and 80-160 lens. This covers all my landscape needs. I like the tripod mount on the side for verticals so I don't have to do weird things with the ball head.</p>

 

<p>If the mirror has taken a big enough whack to put a chip into it, I would worry about the alignment of the mirror and getting incorrect focus. I would take some photos of a ruler on the diagonal to make sure that you can focus correctly. As far as the chip is concerned, if you can't see it in the viewfinder, don't worry about it.</p>

<p>I agree with Charles and Roland. The buttons are too fidgety to use all the time on each exposure and the "N" doesn't cost that much more. I really like the data imprinting.</p>

<p>Speaking from a portrait point of view the bokeh for the 120 is not exactly pretty, though not ugly. The 150 is much better in this regard but could focus closer for head shots.</p>

<p>Not to directly answer your question, try a small P&S like the Panasonic LZ8, which has manual exposure, exposure comp and a live histogram. The price is about $120 or so. And, of course, you can use your Rebel as a light meter. But it would be nice to have live view like the Olympus (and now others) and a live histogram.</p>

<p>Not really a manual override but you can cheat because it has AE lock. Watch the shutter speed, and to do minus exposure compensation pan the camera to something brighter (usually the sky), lock the exposure, pan back to the original scene and take your shot. To overexpose just point the camera at a shadow watching the shutter speed, lock, pan back and shoot.</p>