elliot

It looks flat and the bottle doesn't stand out from the background.

I don't think this is the kind of subject that a light tent is good for.

Think about how to highlight the bottle and make it stand out.

I also have this lens. It is a great lens for the price - great value compared to the Nikkor equivalent for the photog that doesn't often use a 300

The 35mm 1.4 AIS will not meter on your camera.

 

On a budget, the 50 1.8 is almost as good as the 1.4.

 

If you get the 50 1.8, you'll have a good short tele for a dslr, and then add a wide angle - maybe a 20mm, since you're using a dslr, or maybe even a wide zoom

"<i>My question really though is when I place the 60mm on my D200 it will essentially be a 90mm.</i>"<br>The 60mm lens on a 1.5x crop sensor will give you the angle of view that you would get with a 90mm lens on a full frame sensor.<br><br>"<i>When it comes to focusing down to 1:1 does the distance scale actually change.</i>"<br>The distance scale doesn't change. Let's say the distance scale indicates "1 foot". The lens will be focused on a plane 1 foot away, whether you have it on a film slr or a crop sensor dslr

Use contact cement - it will grip well, it is flexible and will adhere to the rubber.

 

Crazy glue is not for rubber.

the 85mm f1.4 is better than the 80-200 and better than the 24-85.

The question is "do you need the f1.4", "are you going to use the f1.4", and since you're using only zooms, it seems, "how much will you use this lens since it is a prime"

 

It will certainly be better than your zooms at f2.8, but if you end up leaving the 80-200 on your camera because its easier and lazier, and if you for some reason never need faster than f2.8, then you probably won't get much benefit from it.

 

I think it's one of the best lenses.

Of the options you've given, the 14mm is the best.

Even if you get some other Nikon body later on (and you will, sooner or later), the lens will still be usable. It's a good choice for a lens in this focal length range and aperture for a digital body.

the tamron 14mm is better than the sigma 14mm.

You won't be able to meter with the zenitar on the n80, but it is a good value for the money. a fisheye isnt something you use everyday, and the zenitar is much better than a converter. Other options are sigma 15mm and nikon 16mm, I think. I'd say buy it, unless you just feel like having one of the more expensive lenses. The nikon is well-built.

I have a tamron, as mentioned above, but in black.. Focusing slows down a bit, but it gets the job done.

buy them all! buy them all! buy every focal length!!!

I've used mine on D100, D70, D1H, F100, N65. No reason why it shouldn't work with a D2H. Havent heard of any problems with this lens. Third party lens electronic incompatability is more a canon thing. Although one time I discovered that a 400 5.6 tamron (i think it was tamron) didn't work with the digital bodies.

I love my 14mm. It is perfectly fine on digital, but the coverage on film is awesome.

image quality trumps build quality.

lexar imagerescue?

old men. wishful dreams. not much chance at making them come true.

Nikon FM with a 50mm f1.8 or a 35mm f2. The FM2n also might be a good camera if you can get a good deal on a body.

I have a tamron 1.4x and it is pretty okay. I haven't used it for your intended purposes though. Perhaps it might be possible to get some extension tubes modified with electrical contacts so that you can retain metering capabilities?

why don't you just sell those and buy the AF equivalents?

If you want to learn photography, never use the P setting again. Ever. You can control the settings you are asking about in M, S, or A.

one stop makes a huge difference in dim lighting conditions.

When people say "Nikon Glass" they really mean "Nikon Lenses."<P>"Glass" is just photographer slang for "lenses."<P>As far as the actual elements in Nikon lenses, who cares where its made or who makes it. It doesn't matter. As long as it is good quality, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between different glass manufacturers anyways. And even if you could, why would you care as long as it makes good pictures?

If you want to learn photography, you will never use "sports mode" again. Use shutter priority, aperture priority, or manual.

As mentioned in the other thread, this makes me very mad. I'm glad I'm not the only one who is pissed off about this.