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steveg

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Posts posted by steveg

  1. <p>It probably has nothing to do with the card - it's most likely because you haven't used the 'Safely Remove Hardware' to eject / remove the card from the computer - Windows will sometimes remember that you haven't done this and comes up with the message you mention.</p>
  2. <blockquote>

    <p>Vuescan expects you to insert "ICC Profile" for Monitor Color Space (the default is sRGB but you need to change that), and then in the following box for Monitor ICC Profile you need to provide the exact location of the latest profile you have created for your monitor, e.g. on my Mac: Users/.../Library/Colorsync/Profiles/...</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>For windows users the profile is in: windows/system32/spool/drivers/color/...</p>

     

  3. <blockquote>

    <p>if you delete them, you will lose any work you have added to that image in post-processing.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Not completely true - the .xmp files store information on what changes you've made in the RAW Converter - it does NOT contain any information of changes subseqently made in Photoshop itself.<br>

    So if you delete the .xmp files it won't effect any images you've already processed but does mean that if you want to do another conversion from the RAW file you would have to start from scratch again.</p>

     

  4. <p>Yes unfortunately it is normal - its down to the design of the SA-21 it crops a liitle of the top and bottom (by the sprocket holes) it seems to be something to do with the way the unit holds the film.<br>

    I generally never fill the frame that much so for most of my images it's OK - I just use the FH-3 holder for those where I really must have the full height - not ideal but as you say the SA-21 is so much more convienient to use.</p>

     

  5. <blockquote>

    <p>The 7D files are also larger than the "recommended photo size" but that doesn't seem likely to be the problem to me.</p>

     

    </blockquote>

    <p>It is - I have the same problem with my 5DMk2 - to get round this I save images on the camera in both RAW and medium jpeg - the jpegs are then small enough to be displayed properly.</p>

  6. <p>I had exactly the same problem with my Win 7 64 bit system - There's actually two places that you need to set the default icc profile - if you don't set it as system default as well it keeps losing your profile setting - I eventually found this on the web that fixed it for me:</p>

    <p><strong>1. ASSOCIATE YOUR PROFILES WITH A DISPLAY AND SET AS DEFAULT</strong> <em><br /> </em><br /> To apply an existing ICC profile (an ICM file created by some calibration process), do the following - <br /> <br /> Control Panel / Display / Change Display Settings / Advanced Settings / Color Management / Color Management (again!) / Devices / select one of your displays*1 / click "use my settings for this device"*2/ if necessary add the applicable profile to the "Profiles associated with this device" box using the "Add" button (if your profile is not already listed but is available somewhere on the network or computer) / click on the correct profile in that box and click "Set as Default Profile".<br /> <br /> *1 the CM dialog boxes don't label your displays the same way as other dialog boxes, they seem to lose the manufacturer and model number info that is available elsewhere, so your <em>ABC model nn</em> display comes up as <em>Display: 1. Generic PnP monitor</em> . Also note that at least on my system, display '1' was in fact display '2' in other display settings dialog boxes, and vice versa. <br /> <br /> *2 You would think that selecting "Use my settings for this device" would mean the Windows would use your settings for that device (display), but apparently it doesn't. It means ... well, I don't know what it means. Perhaps it means if you <em>don't</em> select it, even the next step (below) won't help you.<br /> <br /> Good work so far - tortuous and unnecessarily complex - but has a certain logic. Unfortunately it doesn't achieve anything at all, until you work out the secret key. Although it seems the above should do what you want, you have to do something which is entirely unobvious, and not mentioned at all in any of the help general discussion, and apparently not known by any of the 67 people who read my question. It is actually listed in the MS help section... at the very bottom of "Understanding color management settings" and after a mass of largely incomprehensible stuff which doesn't appear to be relevant, there is a link which is not listed in the contents at the top and almost impossible to notice... To enable or disable calibration loading by Windows <br /> <br /> <strong>2. ENABLE CALIBRATION LOADING BY WINDOWS</strong> <br /> <br /> Here's the hidden bit of help file...<br>

    <em>To enable or disable calibration loading by Windows , you must be logged on with a user account that has administrative privileges.</em></p>

    <ol>

    <li><em>Click to open Color Management. </em></li>

    <li><em>Click the Advanced tab, and click Change system defaults .</em></li>

    <li><em>Click the Advanced tab in the Color Management - System Defaults dialog box, and do one of the following:</em>

    <ul>

    <li><em>To enable Windows to load display calibrations,<strong> select the Use Windows display calibration check box.</strong> </em></li>

    <li><em>To prevent Windows from loading display calibrations, clear the Use Windows display calibration check box.</em></li>

    </ul>

    </li>

    <li><em>Click Close in the Color Management - System Defaults dialog box.</em></li>

    <li><em>Click Close in the Color Management dialog box. </em></li>

    </ol>

    <p>Hope this helps.</p>

    <ol> </ol>

  7. <p>I also have the MkII and had a similar shock at the prices - the problem with the cheap compatibles is that they aren't exactly 100% compatable - they lack the electronics to "comuniate" with the camera and charger.</p>

    <p>So while I was quite happy to use the compatibles with the 5D I definately won't use them with the 5DMkII.</p>

    <p>There is at least one third party battery that is 100% compatable (Delkin as far as I recall) but this is not really any cheaper than the Canon battery (its cheaper but has lower capacity) making it a poor buy.</p>

     

  8. <p>Raids not for everybody - it's easy to set up and maintain IF you know what you're doing but is extra hassle if you don't. Also it can lead to a false sense of security - you still need a good backup / recovery regime in place.<br>

    Used properly though it can give an extra element of protection against disk failure as mentioned elsewhere it offers no protection against accidental erasure etc.<br>

    The best plan is to keep muliple copies of everything either on seperate drives (I use two external drives for this) and / or media such as DVDs.</p>

     

  9. <blockquote>

    <p>Just out of intereset b/c for my hobby work I just sync my pictures into a 2nd partition of my sys drive and vice versa and i have a external drive too...</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>You're not really achieving anything doing this as if your drive fails you'll loose both copies...<br>

    Yes you can have two raid arrays - my computer is set up like that - two small fast drives in a raid 0 array for the operating system and application files. I also use this for the scratch disk for photoshop because it's fast - but DEFINATELY no data!<br>

    For data storage I have a 3 disk raid 5 array.<br>

    It's generally not recomended to have the operating system on a Raid 1 or 5 because of performance issues.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p> </p>

    </blockquote>

  10. <p>I can't answer the question for the 7D, but for a 5D a good starting lens would be the EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS lens - This is the lens that sits on my 5DMKII for 80% of the time as it covers (for me) the most useful range (medium wide to medium telephoto).<br>

    I'm not sure what the equivalent would be for the 7D.</p>

  11. <p>If you have the Live View focus mode set to "quick" then when you press the shutter button the mirror will flip down to allow the normal auto-focus to work and then flip up again to take the actual exposure / return to live view.</p>

    <p>To prevent this either select "Live Mode" focusing (somewhat slower to focus!) or of course focus manually - you can then take pictures in live view WITHOUT the mirror moving.</p>

  12. <blockquote>

    <p>For instance if I have a camera a few years old</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>The speed of the card does't matter, as Rob says the camera will limit the speed - but the size might - just make sure that the camera can cope with sizes above 2GB - some older camera can't.</p>

  13. <p>Delkin have just announced a 100% compatible LP-E6 battery that is a little cheaper than the outrageously expensive Canon batteries.</p>

    <p>Take a look on the Delkin site: http://delkin.net/shop/product.php?productid=629&cat=12&page=1</p>

    <p>I don't know if these are available yet and they do seem to be lower capacity (1650mAH instead of 1800) but it's a start and I'm sure other 3rd party manufacturers will follow.</p>

  14. <p>The best way of handling this is to look at the histogram at the time of taking the pictures - this also gives you a flashing "burnt out highlights" feature on the small thumbnail - if this is flashing then dial in some negative exposure compensation and take the picture again.</p>

    <p>This is an oversimplification - but you often have to adjust what the camera is doing, particularly in high contrast situations.</p>

  15. <p>Small OLED displays are now starting to become common on things like digital phones etc but they still have a long way to go before developing a practical (one we can afford!) large screen using this technology - I personally think this type of technology is the way forward if they can sort out all the problems.</p>

    <p>LED back lights on LCD screens are just starting to appear and as with any new technology bears a price hike over conventional back lights - but I'm sure that this will change over the next few months. As it's expensive they also tend to pair it with the better quality panels - hence the generally stunning results from these TV's.</p>

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