drymanphoto

I am using the SB-28 with a D50 and would like to know if any of the flash settings on the camera do anything, when you use this flash in A and M modes. I've come to the conclusion that they probably do nothing, since the flash settings and sensors are probably doing all the adjustments. Is this true?

I am using a D50 with an SB-28 flash unit and would like to know what

are the best methods for achieving optimum results with this setup.

I have used it in A and M modes, with a decent amount of success.

From what I've read, the SB-28 adjusts it's output by itself, when

set to A, but better results can be achieved by using the flash in M

mode, where a combination of camera and flash settings are used for

the best results. Any suggestions?

This question was boggling my mind too and I thank you all for helping me figure it out. What I am still thinking about is, that you do what to keep an original copy in Adobe RGB for printing, correct? The sRGB is simply better for viewing on monitors, or that is my understanding of it.

Just found this page that has a list of weather resistant and water proof digital cameras. http://www.steves-digicams.com/cameras_wr.html

The only waterproof digital cameras that I've seen advertised are made by Pentax and Olympus. Pentax makes a 3MP and 4MP model called the Optio 33WR and 43WR. I'm not really sure about the Olympus one. These might not be what you are looking for. Have you thought about buying a plastic waterproof housing for a model that you like?

I had been using TIFFs for archiving, but for some reason began saving PSDs today. The only thing I don't like about them, is that the thumbnails are very small and there is no image preview with them. I saved one as a PNG and the thumbnail is much larger, like a JPEGs, and you can bring up an image preview in Windows. I like this discussion and hope more people who know something about these formats send in a comment.

I'm also looking for a lense in this range. Sigma seems to have some interesting choices, at least from the stand point of focal lengths to choose from. Their 135-400mm f/4.5-5.6 APO interested me because of it's price and filter size. Has anyone ever used this lens? Does the price and auto focusing match it's relatively meager price?

Thank you for all of your responses. They are all quite helpful. I guess it really depends on what I will be using it for and if I can justify the costs associated with going digital and being able to print out professional or near professional results on a regular basis. Right now I'll do my best with what I have, because I really can't afford to do otherwise.

 

Thanks Again,

Daryl

After just having purchased an F-5, I realize that I may, in the near

future, be looking for a digital SLR of compareable quality. How do

these new digital cameras compare to the F-5 and F-100? I'm sure

they must be lighter, at least one would think. I also hear that the

results, unless you are going very large, are just as good, or at

least good enough, when compared to film cameras. Some say, if you

are going very large, you should be using a larger format camera to

begin with.

 

I have also heard that some long-time Nikon users are switching over

to Cannon, because Nikon does not appear to be interested in using

the larger CMOS sensor, to equal the perspective of their 35mm

cameras and lenses. Is Canon really more advanced in the digital SLR

market, or is this just a lot of hype and some confusion, in part due

to people being anxious about Nikon's future plans?

I just purchased a used F-5 and I was wondering how it compares to

the F-100. I imagine that it's main difference is in it's more

advanced color metering system. It's drawback seems to be it's size

and weight. Plus, on the F-100 you have command dials when using the

additional battery pack and shooting vertically.

 

If anyone has both and has used them extensively, I'd be interested

in hearing about some of the differences they see in the two.

Especially in the results they get with them.

 

Daryl

I'd go with an Nikor 80-200 f/2.8. It will focus very fast with your N90 and you will be able to capture some very nice shots of your whippets with it and it would do just fine for some low light concerts, although an even faster lens might do the job even better. Fast film, might help you compensate for this, without anymore expense.

I'm glad that you asked this question. I was having similar thoughts about going over 85mm with my SB-28. I knew, from reading one of John Shaw's books that you can purchase a "Flash X-Tender" from Kirk Enterprises, but it's only good for focal lengths of 300mm and up. Thanks again for asking this good question. It's really helped me.

Thank You Hal,

 

I also realized that the sync cord has PC sockets for pluggin in three additional units, so not sure why I was worried about this.

 

Daryl

You may want to check out this ad.

 

http://www.photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=529386

From my SB-28 "Magic Latern Guide" I read that the SB-28 is more compact and more powerful than the SB-26, minus the slave/flash function. The SB-26 is the same as the SB-25, with better red-eye reduction and the slave/flash function. That's all I can tell you. At a minimum, I go with the SB-26, but you are the one buying and using it. And how did this question turn into something about MTV? What a crock.

I'm thinking of purchasing a SB-80DX and wanted to know if it has any

built-in TTL sockets for attaching additional flash units using sync-

cords? I know that the SB-28 does.

I am looking at various flash units for Nikon cameras and wondered if

any of the third party flash units make full use of the more advanced

features, such as 3-D Matrix Metering and Multi-Sensor Balance Fill

Flash. Does anyone know how they might compare, particularly Sigma's

EF-500.

 

TYIA,

Daryl

Thomas,

 

I also have an N80 and I use an SB-28 flash. I've been doing a lot of reading about using this combination, in my "Magic Latern Guides" on both the SB-28 and N80 and did read that you cannot connect a flash to the camera with a SC-17 cord and also use the built-in flash. Since your SB-80DX has a built in wireless slave controller, there is no need for you to attach it to the camera, so I think you could probably use this combination, with the built-in flash as your trigger flash. Just be sure to switch your camera to manual or spot metering, so that the monitor pre-flash does not accidentally trigger the the SB-80DX prematurely.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Daryl

I just got a Nikor 28-105 lens and I really like it on my N80. The combo feel very balanced when you are carrying it and it is a nice range for most of the things I like to photograph. I like it so much, that it has me thinking about the 80-300zoom, as a lighter alternative to my current 80-200 f/2.8 lens. Of course, if I really had the money, I'd buy all S lenses, because they are pretty light and great in quality. But this is the real world now and I'm not a photojournalist just yet and may never be.

 

Daryl

My current set-up is pretty good, but the 80-200 f/2.8 weighs a good bit. I mainly enjoy shooting landscapes and would mostly use the lighter lenses for travel photography. I'm a bit torn between the idea of buying ligher lenses for my current camera or buying a pretty good digital camera with a nice range. There are just so many choices out there, which seems to make it harder for me to decide. A 70-300mm zoom might make the best sense for me since my funds are limited and I already have the other gear to work with. However, I also do some sports photography, where a slower lens probably wouldn't do me much good on overcast days. I think I just need to prioritize my goals better. Thanks for you help.

 

Daryl

Thank you all for your responses. I may purchase a 28-105 and carry along my 35-70 2.8, just in case. I also think a 70-300 would also be nice for some extra range and flexibility, and if I had the extra money, maybe the 80-400VR. Althought I'm guessing that this is a much heavier lense.

 

Daryl

Why doesn't Epson put larger print buffers on it's printers? HP seems to get this right, but I guess this is where Epson saves it's money, in making a better printer. Also, does anyone like using the photo rolls and the automatic cutter on the Epson 2200? Isn't that a nice feature to have, if you want to print a lot of pictures and save some money on paper? I have the Epson 890 and paid almost $300 for it two years ago. I now see it at B&H for $200 with a $100 rebate offer. Wonder what went wrong with this printer and why you don't see it for sale anywhere, beside B&H.

 

My Thoughts,

Daryl

I currantly own a 24mm prime, 35-70mm zoom, and 80-200mm zoom; all

very fast lenses and all very heavy. I'm looking for a good

combination that is light, fairly fast, and pretty good quality. I'm

thinking of buying a 28-105 and 80-300mm zoom. This seems like a

pretty good combination for most situations and would definitely save

some weight as well as give me more flexibitliy. Any comments on

this?

With the N80, it doesn't matter if you have an aperture ring or not, because you always have to have it in the locked position, for the camera to work properly. The G lenses appear to be lighter and most of them have plastic mounts, so I imagine they are cheaper and not quite as solid as the D lenses.

I currently own and use a Sigma 24mm f/1.8 lens with my N80. It is a solid little lens and takes very nice photos. One thing about having a faster lens, is that it innitially lets more light into your view finder, no matter what f-stop you have it set on, making it easier to see and focus. I agree full heartedly, that you normally would not want to shot at f/1.8 or even less then f/8 with a wide-angle lens, because of the depth of field required to get most of the scene in focus. I have read that the Nikon 24mm f/2.8 has an awesome reputation for great color and clarity, so you might want to pay the extra, if it's worth it to you.