kendurling

Thanks Robert, I just Googled it, found it and printed it out. Will now RTFM! ;-)

Interesting what you say about the 7 in manual mode, I didn't realize that. I was definitely reading off fractional stops and setting the aperture between clicks this weekend. We'll see how the shots come out... but I may not be able to tell much without some controlled A-B'ing.

One of the interesting things about the L-758 is the choice of "weighted mean" and "simple" averaging. Any insight on that? On my Canon T-90s which have multi-spot averaging, it is possible to "bias" an exposure by taking more than one reading in an exposure zone, thereby favoring the average slightly in that direction, depending on how many times you read that zone. I'm assuming that "weighted mean" in the 758 works similarly, but haven't experimented with simple averaging yet.

Ken

Just wanted to thank everyone again, and today special thanks for tip to use the edge of the focusing area rather rely on the middle. It certainly was easier, and when I get today's shoot back if things still look OOF I will have the RF checked. Still on the fence with buying a 50/4.5 for this M7 body, or buying a GSW690 (II or III, I read somewhere to stay away from the "I"? Due to parts unavailabilty, not sure how much of a concern this is) Going on a 5-day road trip in N.Cal this week, Shasta, Lassen etc., so the Mamiya should get a good workout. This week I bought a new meter (my L-508 was stolen) and got an L-758. Nice meter! Since I also have a 30D, I'll profile that eventually. All Mamiya 7 shots were done with it today.

Ken

Something I forgot to ask: when using the 50mm (or 43) with its external viewfinder, how does focusing work? Is it coupled to the camera's split screen?

Ken

Hey thanks, I'll check into having the RF on the 7 checked. If it was off, I probably wouldn't get ANYthing in focus though right? I'm not sure I can state that.

Just for fun, here's a landscape I did with a 30D that I wish I'd had a MF camera for. Seems like a natural for 6x9, doesn't it?

http://www.photosig.com/go/photos/view;jsessionid=aoS8sJj1asHcnhm8Bg?id=1816116

I've printed it as large as I could fit on 8.5x11 paper, and it starts to show that it's digital already. But it could be a little over-sharpened. That layered look that to me is one of the downfalls of digital due to coarse edge definition. I'm sure it could be printed better, but I sure would love to have a big neg to start with.

Ken

Wow. Honestly I was expecting "This question has been answered many times, please use the search function" (which i did) but this is a great crop of responses. Thanks all. I will have to pore over them, but on initial reading a few things spring up:

1) I don't "dislike" the Mamiya. I do have questions about whether the 6x7 format is what I want, and know only I can answer that. I find focusing tricky with the split image, especially with the camera rotated to portrait. I've been getting a lot of shots that are just slightly OOF - but enough to ruin it - but when I look over the lot, it's improving so I guess it's a learning curve. But it seems you're saying the Fuji VF is darker - perhaps focusing is even more difficult? I'm in my mid-50's and my eyes aren't what they used to be.

2) re: the Mamiya 50 and 43mm lenses - I hear people praise the 43 a LOT, but rarely the 50. is it not as good? In 35mm I find the 24mm FL to be very natural for my eye, so I'm thinking the 50mm lens would be a good one for me were I to go with the Mamiya system. The Mamiya wides use an external VF for framing, I assume the dedicated Fujis have finders that are matched to their lenses. Does this amount to an advantage for anyone?

3) Interesting point about shooting two films. Maybe I WILL end up with one of each. But right now I'm interested in really perfecting my B&W skill in this format. I don't have an enlarger/darkroom but can soup my own negs, and for now I would be scanning and inkjet printing, possibly quad eventually, with the occasional print done by a lab. I have an Epson 4990 and lust after a Nikon 9000. What do most of you use for processing?

4) Interesting the the Fuji is so much louder, the Mamiya is truly Leica-like with just a little tick.

4) If I also wanted to add some portrait work does this change the assesment of the two cameras? I have indeed considered a MF SLR, which would probably better for portraits, but so bulky in the field.

OK, I better go back and read more of what you've said, I'm rambling.

Ken

I want to get a nice MF RF camera, mostly for shooting landscapes in B&W. I'm

currently borrowing a mamiya 7 w/80mm lens, have owned a Rolleiflex for years,

but mostly have shot 35mm. It's partly for that reason I'm having trouble

getting used to the Mamiya's aspect ratio, but I also think for this part of my

photography I'd like a wider format, and of course, lens. I know there are w/a

lenses available for the Mamiya, but am wondering if I'd be better off with a

dedicated 690GSW with its 65mm. I'm also finding the mamiya quite quirky, and

often difficult to get critical focus with, especially in low contrast or low

light situations. But then I've only burned about 20 rolls of film with it so

far. But I'm wondering if the Fuji ius similar in this respect, or easier. I

take it Fujis don't have light meters? Thaty's fine if so, I really enjoy the

meditative aspect of using a handheld, and am not crazy about the mamiyas

viewfinder "interface." I know the mamiya lenses are regarded as the best MF

lenses, which is attractive.

Any other things to think about?

TIA

Ken

Thanks Paul -

I'm curious, do you find yourself using the camera or film profile feature at all? Do you think it's useful?

Ken

I've owned a 508 for a while and thought it was great. It was stolen recently, and am in the position of wanting to replace it. One thing both the 558 and 758 offer over the 508 is the ability to have 9 readings in memory as opposed to 3. I'm in the habit of averaging multiple spots on order to bias exposure on my T-90, so having this on a handheld would be great. I also shoot both digital and film, so I think the 758 is going to be my choice, even though I could replace my 508 with a used one quite affordably.

I know this is kind of an old thread, I wonder if anyone has experience with the 758 by now?

Ken

$119 is pretty good for a FD 24/2.8, but not super. The following site is an excellent starting point for pricing FD glass;

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/starka/CanonFD_ebay2.htm

I got my nFD 24/2.8 for $35 becuase it had a cleaning mark on the front element. No effect on photos that i can see.

Ken

Tim, just be aware they tend to get overpriced. You should be able to find one easily for under $50. I concur with mark that this is an excellent doubler. I've used it on telephotos, of course, but also with a normal 50/1.8 or 50/1.4 to make a dynamite macro lens.

Ken

A couple of people have mentioned the 135/3.5 as being an "SC" lens. I know the 135/2.5 is - are they both or is that a typo?

Ken