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jerry_terry3

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Posts posted by jerry_terry3

  1. <p>While the extra battery and vertical shutter a nice, unless you do a lot of vertical shooting, for most people ergonimics is the main reason to get/not get a grip. Personally, I have fairly large hands and like the larger, heavier grip because it fits my hands better; my wife dislikes the vertical camera grip because she finds it too large and heavy to use comfortably. You should definitely pick up a camera with and without the grip to help decide. Regarding brand, I tend to stick with Canon (the other brands may be okay, but you lessen the chance of compatibility problems by sticking with Canon); fyi, I bought a used Canon brand grip for my 30D for about the same price as a new off-brand.</p>
  2. <p>It's probably worth investigating further to see if there is any other damage or not; you would be surprised at what a camera can survive. Try taking some pictures and downloading them to a computer. This will tell you if it's only the screen or something more serious. Even if the camera seems non-functioning, it might be worthwhile to check with a repair shop for an estimate/recommendation before replacing it.</p>
  3. <p>My first thought is that you have dirty or lightly corroded contacts (even if you don't see anything). Remove the batteries from the grip and the grip from the body. Clean all of the electrical contacts, both on the grip, the battery compartment and inside the camera battery compartment where the grip connects. You can try a q-tip dampened with a little rubbing alcohol or rubbing the contacts with a pencil eraser. (This sometimes works on lenses also; if you ever have a lens that acts up or the body displays "Err99" try cleaning the electrical contacts between the lens and the body.)</p>
  4. <p>There is a good photo repair shop in Washington, DC, called Strauss Photo-Technical Services. I've had a few things done there (new hotshoe on a540ez flash, command dial repaired on EOS 1, cleaning, etc.) and was happy with their service. It is my understanding that they are an authorized repair facility for Canon, Nikon, etc., and they have a good reputation. You should be able to find them online or call them (202-529-3200) and they can probably tell you if they are able to repair these or not.</p>
  5. <p>You also might want to consider used. I've had good luck with used equipment from KEH, and I've had many good experiences with new equipment from B&H and Adorama, so I assume their used departments would also be good. All offer a short warranty (enough to make sure the camera/lens is working well). If there is a problem, it's generally going to show up quickly, and it's rare for someone to shoot enough to wear out a body or lens. From my experience, most of the newer model used cameras are from someone upgrading from a good camera to the "latest-and-greatest" camera.</p>
  6. <p>As long as you buy from a reputable place that offers a short-term warranty/return policy (even a couple of weeks is plenty of time to check out the lens or body to make sure it has no problems) you'll be okay. I've purchased used from KEH, B&H, and a reputable local camera store (Penn Camera in the DC metro area), but would also not hesitate to order from Adorama (where I've ordered new but not used). Based on my experience, B&H ratings are as described, and KEH ratings (especially "bargain) are typically better than described. Personally, I would be hesitant to purchase from eBay, etc unless the seller is in the area and you can check it out in person.</p>
  7. <p>I've had good luck with buying used equpment from KEH, B&H, and a local camera store (Penn camera in the DC metro area). They are all very reputable, offer a warranty, usually 14 days no questions asked and 30-60 days for defects. When you buy on E-bay you are taking a big chance.</p>
  8. I've bought from B&H many times over the last ten or fifteen years via telephone, internet, and in person. Without

    exception I've had nothing but outstanding customer service. They have always been extremely honest, helpful, and

    knowledgeable. Based on my experiences, I have a difficult time believing that they were dishonest with you. Regarding your comment about a manager not being available when you first asked, if you have ever been to their

    store you would understand; they have a huge store, a large staff, and a very well-run operation, but they also stay

    extremely busy. It sounds like the problem was an out-of-date/incorrect address on PayPal rather than poor

    customer service from B&H.

  9. My recommendation would be the refurbished 30D (personally, I bought a used 30D a couple of months ago because I couldn't find a refurbished one at that time). The quality of the picture won't be noticeable, but if you ever do any journalism, sports, children photography, etc., the slight difference in shutter response between the two becomes very noticeable; in action photography it definitely makes the difference between getting your shot and almost getting your shot. Additionally, the 30D has a brighter viewfinder, is a more durable camera with a longer estimated shutter life, and (for most people) has better ergonomics. Regarding refurbished, over the years I've bought several refurbished items (Compaq computer, Sony home stereo, Canon Digital Rebel, etc.) and have never had any problems. Refurbished items are usually either customer returns, often because they decided the product wasn't what they wanted rather than a defect, or a damaged box that the retailer sent back. Either way, they get a factory checkup and repair if needed. With any product (new or refurbished) something could go wrong at any time, but generally with high quality electronics (such as name brand cameras) defects will show up within a few uses.
  10. From what I've read (and put into practice with my batteries), as a general rule NiMH batteries do not have to fully discharged every time, but it is good to occasionally fully discharge them and for longest life fully discharge them the first couple of times you use them.

     

    Unfortunately, I don't know about the lithium batteries, except that some types of lithium batteries (lithium ion, I think) can be recharged while others are intended to be disposable (like AA, 2CR5, etc.).

  11. For weddings and family portraits I use strictly film for two reasons. First, film (usually Fuji NPS and NPH) has a certain look that I prefer over digital for weddings. Second, I trust the longevity of film over digital files (my pricing includes negatives, and I want them to have the option of passing them on to their grandchildren). Plus, I normally have it scanned at the time of processing so the couple has photos to e-mail. However, I do use digital for certain jobs, such as corporate headshots when the photos will be used strictly online or published in a newsletter, magazine, etc.
  12. I am looking for my first digital camera that I can use primarily for

    personal use (snapshots, photos of homeless animals for a rescue

    group's website) but also light-duty professional use (specifically,

    "grip-and-grin" shots printed at 8x10). The Fuji s5100 is

    inexpensive, has a nice feel, and on-paper seems adequate for this

    purpose (my plan is to shoot in manual mode and mount it on a

    Stroboframe bracket with a Vivitar 283 and Wein peanut slave), but

    since I have very little experience with digital cameras I'm hoping

    someone can give me some real-life insights. I am leaning away from a

    digital SLR (most of my shooting is with an EOS 1 film camera) and

    don't want to spend any more than necessary to get good quality 8x10s.

    Anyone have insights/experience to share?

  13. I had the same problem once and it turned out that I had the slave unit plugged into the strobe powerpack backwards. I think it was a Speedotron powepack with a Wein slave unit; regardless, the connector looked like a standard houshold plug. It turns out that the slave unit is directional - some powerpacks won't fire at all if it is backwards, but others will fire both directions but will miss the sync if the cord/slave unit is plugged in backwards. Hopefully this will turn out to be your problem; good luck.
  14. I also have been looking for an archival printer, and called Canon a few months ago. They will not give an estimate of longevity but from the research I have done, it seems that prints from the Canon will not last nearly as long as those from the Epson pigment-based printers (2200 and R800). One sit (www.livick.com/method/inkjet/pg2d.htm) rates the Canon S9000 (which I believe uses an ink similar to the i9900) at 2 to 12 years, and the Epson 2200 at 26 to over 100 years, both depending on the paper used. By comparison, it rates Fuji Crystal Archive a 65 years. Some companies are working with dye ink/special paper combinations to get the longevity up, but my impression is that among non-commercial inkjet printers the Epson pigment based inks tend to have the best chance of longevity.
  15. I've been using a Lowepro Nova 5 for about six years and have been very happy with it. I don't have any experience with the Tamrac, but my Nova bag has held up very well (fabric, buckles, zippers, etc. are still in great condition), has enough padding to adequately protect my equipment, and in my opinion is an excellent value.
  16. A couple of years ago I had a relatively tight budget but wanted a second body. I chose an EOS 1 and have never regretted it. In day-to-day usage, the most significant difference is the improved shutter button feel and response as compared with the less-professional models. All of the EOS 1 line and EOS 3 respond much quicker and have less button travel than other models; this often makes the difference between getting the shot or barely missing the shot. While the focus isn't as quick as some of the newest EOS bodies, it is very quick and is quicker than some of the other bodies I have tried (EOS 5, Elan, 10s) and I have never missed a shot because of it being too slow.
  17. I've been happy with Strauss Photo Repair in Washington, DC, (they replaced the command and control dials on my EOS 1) and have had great experieces buying used equipment from KEH Photo (which has a repair shop) in Atlanta, GA. I know that both of these places will accept repairs via mail, and both will give estimates before doing any work. I don't have their telephone numbers handy, but they should be easy to find online.
  18. Don't overlook the $200 cost of the printer when calculating the cost of prints. Assume your traditional lab charges $0.49 each for 4x6 prints. Even though the Epson prints only cost $0.29 each for paper and toner, you have to make 1,000 prints to recover the cost of the printer just to break even. For many people the convenience outweighs the cost, but it is something to consider.
  19. I have shot some theater and would recommend using a wide aperture lens (if your camera is a point and shoot, consider borrowing or renting an SLR with a wide aperture lens), a tripod, and Fuji NPZ 800 film, which you can push to 1600 if needed, and do not use any flash. I think you will be much happier with the results. Also, as someone else mentioned, try to get access during a dress rehearsal so you can move around and get different angles.
  20. What limitations you are running into because of a lack of equipment, or why you are disatisfied with your current setup? Except for something relatively specialized and expensive (like a large aperture telephoto or a macro lens) it sounds like you have everything you need for most work, unless you are simply disatsified with the quality of your lenses, in which case you will probably have to spend more than $350 to upgrade. If you don't have one, you might want to consider adding an external flash. Otherwise I would spend my money on film - experience is a lot more important than equipment if you really want to be a good photographer.
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