shin_bone

Place your favorite medium format body with a normal lens on the carseat next to you. Lock a wide angle lens in the trunk. The extra effort of getting out the wide angle will inherently limit your use of it to only those situations where you really need it (but you will also have it when you absolutely need it).

 

Completly skip bringing a telephoto lens.

Though having some automation, the Ricoh GR1 (and variants) produces spectacular shots from a cigarette-size package.

Hi All,

(Also posted this in the Leica forum) Couldn't find this in the

archives: How does the image quality of the old and new Schneider 10x

loupes compare to one another? Is there is noticable difference? Huge

difference? Noticeable, but just barely?

 

And, how does anyone know how the new Scheider 4X compares to the

Leica loupe?

 

Thanks,

 

--R

Hi All,

 

Couldn't find this in the archives: How does the image quality of

the old and new Schneider 10x loupes compare to one another? Is

there is noticable difference? Huge difference? Noticeable, but

just barely?

 

And, how does the new Scheider 4X compare to the Leica loupe?

 

Thanks,

 

--R

From reading the comments, looks like the seller is generally honest but is occasionally a little sloppy in his item descriptions. Also looks like he firmly stands by his policy of "sold as is."

 

--Randall

The custom camera finish looks good.

 

The knives look great!

 

I, for one, appreciate a person who dares to be different.

 

--Randall

There's also the relatively inexpensive Mamiya C330 (professional version) and C220 (amature version) series of 6x6 TLRs which offer interchangeable lenses. One could pick up a late model good (if not excellant) C330S with an 80mm lense for around $350. The interchangeable lenses make the Mamiay system very versatile.

 

--Randall

Hmmmm . . .

 

Does the lack of responses to my comment that the Nikon 9000 is the best prosumer medium format scanner now and for the foreseeable future indicate that everyone is in agreement?

Good point that 5400 dpi resolution on medium format may require a flim flatness impractical in a desktop scanner.

 

From my research, even a used Imacon is substantially more expensive than a new Nikon 9000.

 

Is it true then that the Nikon 9000 is about the best (in resolution and Dmax) prosumer medium format film scanner we can expect to see for awhile?

 

--Randall

Dan,

 

Thanks for your input.

 

While a 6x6 negative at 5400 dpi would produce a huge file, and I most likely would never create such a beast, the extra resolution is nice when working with just a part of the negative. Additionally, it seems logical to get the most capability for my money.

Hi All,

 

I am in the market for a medium format film dedicated scanner. I

know others like Nikon and Microtek make medium format film scanners,

but I was wondering if anyone had heard whether Minolta plans to

scale its 35mm 5400 dpi scanner up to a medium format machine?

 

Seems like Minolta would have a sure winner if they did scale the

technology up to medium format. I don't want to invest in a Nikon or

Microtek scanner if Minolta plans to soon release a medium format

scanner with 5400 dpi and good dynamic range.

 

--Randall

Also, be sure non-tribal members are allowed to visit wherever you choose to go before showing up. I have strayed into areas off-limits to non-tribal members such as certain pueblos in New Mexico and have received a very unpleasant welcome. Certainly not a way to win potential subjects over to you.

By the time using film becomes difficult due to scarcity, digital will be so good that even the most stubborn emulsion lover will be happily switching to digital.

 

Additionally, digital will eventually be able to reproduce the film characteristics of any emulsion, including emulsions long out of production. Thus, digital will bring back the long lost look of many of the classic emulsions which have regretably fallen to market forces.

eBay is great if you know what you want and research the buyer.

 

I have done over 50 transactions, and have almost always obtained near mint or excellent photo gear for about 40% of retail. I've never lost more than the shipping charges on the couple of transactions where there was a problem.

 

Overall, my savings on eBay dwarf my loses. It is clear that I would have lost a lot more in just one retail transaction through depreciation.

 

Ebay has simply made it possible for me to own cameras I wouldn't be able to afford otherwise.

 

Plus, if I decide the camera I bought on eBay does not suit me, I simply resell it on eBay and get all or more of my money back. It is like a free trial use of any camera that catches my fancy.

 

My 0.02

 

--Randall

Now's a good time for a comment from Jay . . .

By the time film becomes so scacre that it is diffcult to use, digital will be so good that you will happily embrace it with enthusiasm.

Posting photographs in a photography forum is outrageous and should not be tolerated. <g>

its a plot by the CIA

Results:

 

Cracking open the lens was as easy as suggested. The debris on the lens turned out to be a fine misting of oil. I have no idea how it got there. The lense easily cleaned up, and is now squeeky clean.

 

Thanks everyone for all your help.

Siu Fai,

 

It looks like the lens is held to the lens board by inserting the rear part of the barrel into the lens board and fixing it in place with a threaded ring screwed onto the lens barrel.

 

The design looks like only the front cell can be removed by a simple unscrewing operation with the hands. It looks like it would take a spanner wrench to remove the rear portion of the lens barrel from the lens board.

 

Thus, when you say the "two cells," are you talking about the front lens cell, and the shutter assembly? It is conceivable that unscrewing the front cell and the shutter assembly would expose the internal surface of the rear lens cell, which is where the debris appears to be located.

Thanks for the suggstions, everyone. Maybe I will take a crack at cracking the lens. <g>

Hi All,

 

I have a Mamiya 80mm S TLR lens in need of service. Specifically,

one of the internal element's surfaces of the taking lens has

a "frosted" appearance across the entire surface. The debris looks

like either a fine misting of oil, or a fungus. I am hoping the lens

is repairable because it is a little used late model "S" version and

the mechanics of the lens are in great shape.

 

I've set the lens in the sun, to no effect. I don't want to attempt

further repairs to the lens myself.

 

I've seen the recommendation of a few fine repair persons for Rollei,

Yashica and Minolta. I also know that I can send it to Mamiya for

repair. But, I was hoping to get the name of a well regarded

independent repair person who is know to be experienced with Mamiya

TLR bodies and lenses.

 

Any suggestions will be apreciated.

 

--Randall

A turnover of participants is to be expected.

 

However, the constant appears to be that this place drives out those with "unique" personalities.

 

It is disturbing to me that a group directed to a unique form of visual self-expression and creativity shouts down participants who creatively express themselves because some members don't like the message or form of delivery.

I am assembeling a Mamiya C330S TLR outfit. I picked up a body in almost new condition for $300 and a late model 80mm S lens for $100.

 

I love composing on the ground glass and looking at the resulting big 'ol chromes.

Jay was the most entertaining for me, and now, silence.

 

People with strong personalities shouldn't be banned - only ignored when they offend.