brad_webb

Found myself needing a mercury battery some time ago for my aged Canon FTbn.

The zinc/air batteries just didn't last long enough to be worth

using, so I took a chance on the C.R.I.S MR-9 adapter. While it is

$30, it's a one time expense and - so far - has lived up to the

advertising.

These days I shoot nothing but print film, and don't use the Canon

anywhere near as much as the Kiev, so my experiences may not be the

best endorsement. However, my camera is back in business.

Like Mr. Seliotis, I've used a Vivitar 285 with good success on my

Kiev 88, though not for weddings. I find it even has sufficient power

to be used with an umbrella with the optional remote sensor mounted

on the camera (ASA 400 film is my choice here) at f8 or even smaller, if

you're reasonably close to your subject..

When used without the umbrella, I use a flash bracket with the

remote sensor mounted in the hot shoe to avoid the flash being sideways

I use the wide angle adapter when not using the umbrella, as the flash

is not set up for a square negative and the adapter ensures better

vertical coverage. It's versatile enough for a wide variety of shooting

situations.

I'm responding to an answer sent me privately by Rick Campbell. First,

Thanks to Rick for his response. I'm replying here because it brought

up two questions I'd like answers from the MFD in general.

Rick responded to the circles of light I commented on earlier in

photos using 220 film in my Kiev 88. Actually, I'd figured out what

caused them and was pointing out using 220 in that back isn't such a

good idea since it relies on the backing paper for good light leak

protection. Rick stated early Hasselblads used a rubber cork in the

light tunnel to prevent the problem. I'd wondered about doing something

like that, and now it seems like it might be a good idea. Has anyone

tried it and does it work?

Secondly, in an earlier post I'd repeated what I'd read somewhere

(can't locate the source) that most Japanese made medium format cameras

limit you to 10 shots vs. 12 on 120 and 20 vs. 24 on 220. His answer

implied that is not the case. If this is a misunderstanding on my part,

it could certainly influence future buying decisions. Would those of

you who use Japanese made cameras, especially with 6x6 negatives, comment

on this? Are there some with artificial limits along these lines, others

without?

Thanks in advance! And thanks again to Rick for his note to me.

Brad

Jon,

So far I'm happy with the Kiev, an 88. It's certainly not a Hasselblad

in mechanical terms, but it's at least $2000 less money.

There have been a few things I don't

like, as with any camera. First, I find the shutter release can stick

when used with a cable release some times. Use of a short release

(actually, the one from my Lubitel) held without letting it droop

cures the problem. Second, on a few shots with an even-toned sky it

seems the far right side of the image is a bit darker, as if the shutter

slowed ever so slightly. I've almost had to convince myself there's a

real difference, it can be so slight. It's not consistent, most shots

don't show any such change. Third - and this I suppose can't really be

called a problem with the camera - I read of a trick to use 220 film

in the back. You reset the counter when the first 12 shots have been used.

It worked, but when I got my film back there was a perfectly circular

bright spot on all the negatives except a few taken in very dark

conditions with flash. The spot corresponded exactly to the "tunnel"

opening through which you view the film backing when winding to exposure

one. This was with NPH, but I'm pretty sure the same would happen with

slower film.

I have wondered if the slight shutter problem couldn't have been

avoided if I'd purchased the camera elsewhere. I bought mine from

"Continent Wide". "Kiev USA" claims to rework the cameras, and perhaps

I'd not have this if I'd bought from them. I should point out that

"Continent Wide" has offered excellent support in all my dealings with

them. I haven't discussed the shutter yet with them. I didn't discover

the situation until the warranty expired. (90 days and I bought it in

November, meaning limited outside shots in Wisconsin during the warranty

period. Ah, well. "Kiev USA" has a longer warranty period, too.)

The problem is very slight, don't see it often, but thought I should

mention it.

I have only the normal lens, but have obtained a 2X converter. The lens

is tack sharp. Even with the converter, I'm getting the kind of crisp

images I'd wanted. I've also added a metering prism, and find it works

as well as any center weighted meter does. Should point out I've only

used it for prints at this point, and I normally use a Very Ancient but

Worthy Pentax spotmeter.

My Kiev came with the Polaroid back. It works perfectly and has come

in handy. Most kits sold now have two 120 backs. Incidentally, unlike

Japanese cameras, you get a full 12 shots, not just 10.

I intend to obtain more lenses, which should give you an idea of just

how little the shutter "problem" has really affected my work and regard

for the camera.

You can see some photos taken with the camera on the net if you wish.

Point your browser at www.globaldialog.com/AdventureCentral/gallery/

index.html. Some of my "parrot portraits" are there. Both photos under

BigBirds, and Raven and Bluebelle under Lovebirds. Scanned for the net

they don't do the prints justice, but might give you some idea.

Regards,

Brad

Jon, your coments about the Lubitel got my attention. I bought one for

much the same reasons you listed - an inexpensive way to get into MF. I

ran into only one insolvable problem with the camera, that potential

owners may wish to know about. With fast film, in my case ASA 400 NPH,

it's very easy to get light leak just by opening the rear shutter to

advance the film. The little red window doesn't quite cut it in this

case. Interestingly, with ASA 400 B and W film, no such problem. Find

a good shadow and be careful, and you can make it work.

It did allow me to determine that MF was what I wanted, and I agree

it's a good, inexpensive way to test the waters. In my case, since

budget continued to be a major consideration, it led to a Kiev as I

wanted a 6x6 negative in a camera still being made that I could afford.

Regards,

Brad