h.p.graver

<p>The Kiev 88 has a focal plane shutter (in the body). For details see <a href="http://www.kievaholic.com/mediumformat.html#kiev88">http://www.kievaholic.com/mediumformat.html#kiev88</a></p>

You are probably best off with a separate meter. The meter of the Yashica 124 is pretty accurate, but die easily. Yashica LM is not very accurate now, the same goes, in my experience for the older Rolleiflex E and F with meter, which are hard to use anyway under difficult conditions, even if they are accurate. Meters on the new Rolleiflexes (GX and FX) are very good and easy to use, but also very expensive.

Thanks. I went to Kiev, and saw only some old ones that certainly did not look tempting! So there is now reputable dealer of checked new ones there?

Hi. I'm going to Kiev, Ukraine next week, and wondered if anyone knows where one

may have good deals on Kiev equipment (bodies, lenses, finders etc.) Are the

proces the same as the ones one can find on the net? (around 500 USD for a new

"refurbished" set). Thanks, Hans Petter

What plug-in to Windows, and where do you get it?

You can download the instructions for the more or less identical 2,8 FX at the Rollei-site here: http://www.rollei.de/index_e.html

Go to Service - downloads and scroll down.

Try http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/yashicamat_124.html

No. See http://www.kelvin.net/Hasselblad/HasselbladLensGuidev17.txt

I have had the same experience with two different Kiev 88's - both with separate backs, so it is interesting to learn that you have the same in a camera where the back is fixed. The shutter is copper-coloured and the internal of the camera probably not very well treated to eliminate reflections, so it is probably flare caused by internal reflections in the camera - at least to me some of the images have flare that looks like some kind of a reflection from the shutter. I have not experimented very much, and have given up Kiev as a tool with any usefull purpose.

Look at Karen Nakamura's pages: http://www.photoethnography.com/equipment.html

Really! I've got a 2000 FCW body with winder that i would gladly swap for a 150 for Rollei sl66 E or SE.

Thank you very much for the information Jean-Louis. I see your point about the lenses being the same - but my interest was based on the fact that I have many lenses for my Hasselblad, but only two for my Rollei. I see that I must resign, but I now understand better why I haven't come accross any adepter by searching on the web.

I'll try that when i get home ;)

But you're suggesting it's pointless?

I have seen some information about using other lenses on a Rollei SL 66,

but have found nothing on the availability to use Hasselblad lenses. I

have both systems, so I wonder whether there is some solution

available so that I can use my Hassy lenses on my Rollei.

The warning "low" should only appear when the light value is below meter range (0,5 EV at 100 ISO), and the regardless of exposure time or aperture.

The main difference is the age. The oldest is the C-12 (12) back - with a peep-through hole to guide you to the first picture on the film - on later backs this is automatic. A-12 was introduced in the seventies, and underwent changes in the eighties and ninetees - the latest with a holder for the dark slide. Generelly the newest are the best regarding film-flatness, but in my experience thet are all good provided they are well maintained (serviced) and that the back and the insert match. The last point can be detemined by the number on the insert at the last digits in the serial number of the back.

It's a beautiful camera. It has the best of two worlds - the focal plane shutter in the camera with speed up to 1/2000, and the possibility to use the lens shutters of the C CF and CFi lenses. It is verastile, light and portable. I moved up from a Bronica ETRSi years ago and found the Hasselblad easier to use and much more durable.

I wouldn't worry about shutter failure. But if you are really nervous, why not get a used 2000/2003 body as backup? They are cheap, and you then have a shutter in the body. (Alternatively go for a 200 -series. You can then by new if you like, and also get TTL-flash like in the 503 CW)

There's a thread further down stating thag Mamiya is revolutionizing

the market with their new 10.000 EURO solution, But what about this:

a Hasselblad 8.000 EURO solution to digitalize any old Hassy?

http://www.hasselblad.se/Archive/documents/Downloads_files/Brochures/

Hasselblad_news_04_euro_low.pdf

Hei Audun. Takk. Just what I've been looking for!

Thanks Leszek, I'll keep your list for future reference. Søren, jeg besøkte deres flotte side om naturfoto og fant inspirasjon ikke bare til objektivvalg der. Også objektivene ser meget skarpe ut. Det beroliger meg.

Tusen takk - jeg skal sjekke ut bildene. Jeg s堰堤ine, de var jo riktig fine ;)

I just bought a Sigma DC 9 because of the Foveon chip and the

reasonable price that was offered me. No I wonder what lenses to

get. I understand that some of the Sigma lenses are OK, some are

awful. All seem to be gastly wide open (I otherwise shoot Hasselblad

with Zeiss lenses, so shooting at full aperture is nothing I�

concerned about.

 

Judging from the net, the 50 f 2,8 and 180 2,8 seem reasonable, but

what about the 105 2,8 � is it worth its cost? What about shorter

lenses? Is the 28-70 f 2,8 OK or should I settle for a fixed length

here too? And real wide, 20 f 1.8?

 

How is the new 18-50 DC?

 

I have seen some blow-ups from images made with some of the best

shot wide open � not very promising. But at what image sizes does

this become an issue in practice?

 

I would be grateful for feed-back from someone who has any

experience with this.

I used both, and find them great systems (love them both). I recently sold my GX because I find the Hassie more versatile. I do a lot of hiking, and find carrying the Hassie is easier and more comfertable. It is also easier to handle - you hold the camera in your left hand and focus with the right - you can fire it right away with your left index-finger. With the GX i had to change hands/grip to go from focussing to fireing the shutter.

Around freezing point is not very cold to us in Norway;)

 

I have used 500 C/M, 2003 FCW and 203 FE in very cold weather (-20 C and below) and have not experienced any problems. The only disadvantage is that the batteries on the 203 (not the 2003) run out very quickly because of the light-meetering function. This winter I have had to change batteries twice in this camera. In 2000 and 201 this should not be a problem.