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tom_gould

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Posts posted by tom_gould

  1. I agree with Wayne that pharmacies are a good source for free amber

    glass bottles in various sizes. They have plastic bottles too. Also

    ask any friends or neighbors that work in a biology/chemistry/medical

    lab for bottles. My lab tosses a few each day. The 1 L and 4 L

    solvent bottles are excellent, especially if they are plastic coated

    (the coating contains the glass and mess if you drop the bottle).

    Solvent bottles are clean when you get them - just allow the last few

    drops of solvent to evaporate.

     

    <p>

     

    I only use glass bottles for developers and other potions that

    degrade in an air permeable plastic bottle. Everything else goes in

    plastic bottles - fixer, stop bath, toners, stabilizers, hypo

    clearing agent, etc. Whenever possible, I use plastic measuring

    cylinders and containers also. A darkened room full of fragile glass

    is not a safe room. For what it is worth, in twenty years as a

    chemist, I've suffered one chemical burn and innumerable glassware

    cuts.

     

    <p>

     

    Tom Gould

  2. You might try running a search on www.dejanews.com. You should

    specifically search in the rec.photo.equipment.large-format forum.

    The Goerz Red Dot apo Artar and Gold Rim Dagor are reputed to be

    excellent lenses, particularly for their age.

  3. The two minute wash might work with RC paper, but it sounds too short

    for fiber based. I rinse my prints after fixing, soak for about 2-3

    min in hypo clearing agent (Kodak's version of Perma Wash) and then

    wash 30 min in a print washing tray. If I still like the print after

    it has dried, I soak it in water again, selenium tone it, hypo clear

    again, and wash 40-60 min. I will probably be dead before the prints

    are.

     

    <p>

     

    You can test for "adequete" washing. David Vestal discussed this in

    detail in his book "The Art of B&W Enlarging". It has been out of

    print for awhile. You may be able to get a copy from your library or

    inter-library loan. The "Mysteries of the Vortex" articles in Photo

    Techniques discuss testing and adequete washing also (two issues,

    Jul/Aug of 1996 and Nov/Dec of 1996).

     

    <p>

     

    You can get to rec.photo thru DejaNews (www.dejanews.com). It also

    sounds like you need a new photography store. Good luck!

     

    <p>

     

     

    Tom Gould (jgestar@aol.com)

  4. A cheap cold light for the D-2 is the old Omega head. The lighting

    is reasonably even, but a little dim. These are available fairly

    inexpensively. You may need to replace the bulb to make it work.

     

    <p>

     

    You may be able to get away with a flat lens board with a 150 mm

    lens, but I'm not sure you will have enough bellows draw. If you can

    get a 4 1/2" lens board, go ahead and do it. Having more than one

    board allows you to switch lens quickly. Do try and get a good lens

    like an EL Nikkor or a Schneider. Don't cheap it out with a used

    Wollensak.

     

    <p>

     

    If the dry mounting press heats evenly and the thermostat works, you

    are set. Other than the thermostat, there is not much to break in a

    dry mount press.

     

    <p>

     

     

    Tom

  5. Definitely contact Harry Taylor. His e-mail is htaylor730@aol.com.

    His phone number is (203) 329-9228. Harry lists the bellows you want

    for $65. He also stocks quite a few other pieces and parts.

     

    <p>

     

    Tom Gould

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