john_cooper2

Bryan, I had the same problem when photographing my wife's

water color (colour) paintings. For consistancy, I now use Fuji

64T and hot lights - a pair of 600w DYH Halogen bulbs in SV

broad lamp housing, set at 45 degrees to wall mounted

paintings (from 20X24 to 30X40 in size).

Thanks for the feedback - it seems Gitzo is it. I just received "The

Digital Photography SourceBook" from B&H, in it they describe two

interesting tripods from Bogen (aka Manfrotto!) that are Carbon Fiber,

nos 3443 and 3444; they are $200+ cheaper than the Gitzo - any user

experience with these?

I just spent two days in Savannah Georgia where the weather was superb; I was shouldering my Linhof Technika V 6X9 with super rollex back, viewfinder and hand grip that weighs about 7lbs. I had left my big tripod at home, thinking I could shoulder carry this weight for several hours. My question is this - is there a light weight strong tripod weighing about 3lbs that has a levelling head (for architectural shots) and has one of the legs that will convert to a monopod-like setting via quick release/trigger mechanism. My aching shoulders are willing to pay several hundred dollars if necessary.

<p>

John Cooper

" The camera is a pain to carry around, but a joy when you put it to your eye to take pictures with. wbill "

I had one of these great camera's and it was a pleasure to carry around with a wrist strap attached to the base of the pistol grip. I carried it this way on many a hike and would often forget it was there, until it banged into something. BTW I traded it for a Super Angulon 65mm F:8 for my Technika V 6X9, and often regret the fact. The 95mm F:3.5 lens is a sharp performer - I salvaged one from my "parts" Linhof 220 and put it in a Copal 0 shutter for use on the Technika.

Ross: As the tragic week continues to unfold, today (sunday) the

weather here in Florida suddenly turned sunny as a cold front replaced

the very wet storm of the last few days.

<p>

I took my Technika V 6X9 with 7 lenses and 3 film backs out onto the

Acosta Bridge overlooking downtown Jacksonville to shoot the same scene

on each lens and each film back; 120 Agfa Scala (200); 120 Kodak 400BW;

and, 220 Fuji NHG II (800). I had loaded the faster films earlier,

expecting the foul weather to continue. It took about an hour and

twenty minutes to shoot 21 shots from the same viewpoint, plus 6 more

of another view. The quick lever removal for the back made the change

from focusing back to film back very quick. The 7 lenses I was testing

were as follows 65mm Super Angulon F:8, 75mm Super Angulon F:8, 80mm

Noritar F:2.8, 105mm Zeiss Tessar F:3.5, 165mm Dagor F:6.8, 180mm Tele

Arton F:5.5 and 240mm Tele Xenar F:5.5.

<p>

I find that the ease of use and ability to fine focus on the ground

glass exceed my prior use of Technika V 4X5 and its lenses; also the

weight of the outfit is more manageable for the walk up the bridge.

<p>

120 and 220 film is great for projection in the 6X7 format and the 6X9

format is closer to the 35mm format than 4X5. I still use 4X5 for

indoor use, specifically Fuji 64T in Quickloads for copying art work,

but for outdoor projects I think I will be using the 6X9 gear most of

the time.

<p>

I would like to reduce my lenses to an 80mm Super Symmar XL and a 120mm

Super Symmar HM both of which can be used on 4X5 and at a stretch on my

5X7 Kardan with or without its 4X5 back.

<p>

Best wishes in your 6X9 exploits,

<p>

John

I use a C.P.Goerz Berlin Dagor 1:6.8 f=16.5cm in DS Compur. This lens

is very sharp (at f:11-16). It nicely covers 4X5 and gives lots of

movement on my Technika 23. This is an uncoated lens from the 1930's (I

think)

I have a Schneider Cinelux Ultra 2/120mm projector lens. At it's fixed

F:2 aperture it gives a bright image on my 6X9 Technika's ground glass

and just about covers the 6X7 format at 20ft. Since it presumably was designed to project 70mm frames in a movie house, does it not seem reasonable to expect good sharpness on film when shooting low light scenes in a theater, church etc. I would have to construct a

guillotine drop shutter for the front of the lens to give a speed fast

enough for people on stage. Has anyone tried something like this?