arthur_yue

The right triangular LED (the one indicating overexposure) on my M6

TTL has failed to light. The other 2 LEDs are OK. Is this a common

thing? Any remedies? Already tried new batteries without any success.

Thanks

Go to the Kobalux site for more details.

There is a note in the end-users sales contact section that says

that the lenses at Adorama are in fact not the current ones but in

fact one generation older.

Try CSL imports instead as they have the current versions.

I couldn't agree more.

Forget Adorama buy from B&H.

I noticed that a few years back Leica used to charge more for their chrome lenses. The prices now however are the same for chrome and black - Leica having actually increased the price of the black lenses while keeping the prices for the chrome lenses more or less the same.

Anyone know why chrome lenses cost more initially? Could it be because of production cost or because they just made a bigger profit then?

I know the camera was designed by Leica and built by Panasonic.

What I was trying to say is that some of the components look quite

familiar so is there a chance that the camera companies are getting

their parts from the same supplier?

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Good to hear that it has a short shutter lag time any idea what the

value is?

Doesn't it look like a Cannon G1/G2.

Probably has the same lens as well. It's also a 7-21mm F2.0 - 2.5 on

the Cannons.

Even the general layout shows more than a passing resemblance - notice

the view-finder, shutter botton, zoom lever etc. just to name a few.

Thanks everyone for your answers and help.

Seems like the only feature that is occasionally found needing is some

bottom padding.

Anyone used the M classic Bag or the recently released new M Bag from M classics of Boston ?

Would appreciate any comments on the bag(s).

Would be even more grateful if the following queries can be answered.

1. Is there no padding at all and do you find this a problem?

2. Is the newer version better in anyway?

3. Do they offer good protection from the elements?

4. Are they heavy?

5. Are they better than a Domke 803?

6. Can they carry more than a 803?

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many thanks in advance.

I have a current 3E that has trouble bringing up the framelines on my

Hexar RF but it has no such problem on my TTL M6s. I think it's more

a problem with the Hexar RF. Although I must add that the other Leica

lenses and sole Konica Hexanon that I own have no frameline problem on

either the Hexar RF or M6s.

I posted this problem a few months ago on this forum and quite a few

people said that they had frameline problems with the 3E and Hexar RF.

Does anyone have any information about black paint 50mm luxes & 35mm crons or for that matter information on any other black paint lenses based on current M lenses ? Are they brass and hence weigh as much as the chrome equivalents? Does the pain wear easily? Are they as lusted after as black paint M6s?

Many many questions!

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Thanks in advance.

This may come across as a silly question but what should I use to keep the leather of the Leica lens carrying case in good condition?

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Thanks in advance!

I currently have a Konica 50mm F2. How good or bad is it compaired with a current Leica 50mm Cron.

Can I make do with it or should I consider the Leica. And just to make things complicated do I need to consider the F1.5 from Cosina ooops Voigtlander as well since it costs even less?

I also have a Tri-Elmar 49mm but at F4 it's a bit slow in some situations.

Would appreciate your advice.

Finally should it be chrome or black.

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Thanks in advance.

I followed Andrew Nemeth's suggestion on film loading and have had no

problems at all. Even works with the M winder!

try his site <azn@nemeng.com>

Seems like I am not alone in experiencing this trouble.

My Tri-Elmar works OK on my Leicas and my other M lenses work OK on

the RF. The single Konica 50mm lens that I have also functions

alright on my Leicas.

I can correct the framelines with the frameline selector on the RF.

Just wondering - Can it be because the spring loading on the RF cam is

not strong enough to allow it to return to the correct position?

I am having some trouble with the framelines on my Konica Hexar RF when I use my Tri-Elmar-M (current version) on it. The 3 sets of framelines come up as expected when I change focal lenth from 35mm to 50mm then to 28mm i.e. turning the focal lenth selector counter-clockwise, but when I move from 28mm to 50mm both set of framelines ( 28/90 & 50/75 become partly visible as very thin framelines i.e. a total of 4 framlines!). When I go from 50mm to 35mm the 35/135 frameline remains unless I turn the focal length selector pass the 35mm indent. In general I am having trouble with the framelines when turning the focal lenth selctor clockwise.

Anybody having the same trouble.

Any explanations or solutions.

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Thanks