pshinkaw

<p>I seem to recall that M3 bulbs were also useable as M class AND FP class bulbs. They were commonly used with Polaroid pack film cameras and can still be found in old Polaroid kits on e-Bay. The boxes had FP sync information on them.<br>

There was an adapter that allowed the smaller based M3 bulbs to be used in the larger bayonet mounts of FP flashguns.</p>

<p>I have an SL35M as well as one of the earlier SL35's. The M is not a very high quality body, but the Planar lens is excellent. Unfortunately the lens only works on Rolleis and Voigtlanders.<br>

The only redeeming qulaity of the M body is the very large viewfinder image. It is much larger than any other SLR I have used and is as bright as an OM-2.</p>

<p>My 635 outfit has the eveready case. very thick black leather with a nice shiny top.<br>

The 35mm adapter was always somewhat of a pain to use unless you were trying to shoot verticals or needed the longer lens.<br>

The big difference between the Yashikor on the 635 and Yashinon (from my other Yashica TLR's) was in the corner sharpness. The drop-off in sharpness in comparison was easily noticeable at 8 in. X 8 in. enlargements.</p>

<p>My Isco Westanar has an M42 mount and is a front element focusing lens. I belive the advertising blurb when I bought it said that it was a 4/3 lens. That probably makes it very similar to the the front element focusing Schneider Xenars that some of the non-folding Kodak Retinas had.<br>

 <br>

-Paul</p>

I have a D3. Used it off and on since 1976. It is harder to find than the D and D2.Read somewhere that it was made in lower quantities. Uses a button on the back to actuate the exposure meter. Match needle exposure, completely manual. $30 is a good price even if it has oily shutter blades.

Only issue I've ever had with it was on a trip when I forgot that it didn't have an accessory flash shoe. Made flash photography awkward but not impossible.

-Paul

Mark Hama can be contacted thru:

http://markhama.home.comcast.net/~markhama/

The Yashica 635 uses a knob advance with a separate shutter cocking lever. There is no winding crank like a Yashica 124

If the shutter doesn't work it is a problem isolated from the film advance. Shutters like the one on the 635 are operated by an intricate series of levers and springs which have to move in a precise sequence in order to work properly. You can learn shutter repair, which is an interesting pasttime. There are several websites on the subject. or, you can use a professional repair shop. I think the other readers here can recommend one.

As a rule of thumb, I never operate a self-timer on an old camera. That is usually the first cause of a shutter jam. Forcing anything is usually riskiy once it jams.

My 35mm conversion kit came with the camera when I bought it back in 1976. Occassionally one will appear on e-Bay. I don't care to use it very much. There were two versions of the 635. One has a Yashikor lens which is a 3 group-3 element lens while another version has a Yashinon lens which is a 3 group-4 element lens (like a Tessar). Mine has the 3/3 lens and I have never been happy with the quality of 35mm photos it makes.

If you elect to try and fix it yourself, you might want to practice on a junker first. A Yashica D is very similar and can be a source of replacement parts as well.

-Paul

My first Kiev did that. I tended to squeeze the body during the exposure, which only made it worse.

It can be fixed by doing one of the following:

1. inserting a black colored felt strip or yarn into the slot at the top of the body where the top lip of the back slides in,

2. gluing a long foam strip onto the back to thicken the top lip of the back, or

3. shooting with the camera in its every-ready case bottom.

I think the camera was originally made with a felt strip in the body slot.

This is one of my favorite Hawkeye websites:

http://members.tripod.com/~CClemens/Brownie/Hawkeye.htm

-Paul

Camerapedia

http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

has quite a bit of the company history.

-Paul

I bought all of my accessories thru e-Bay without any problems too. There's only a small amount of competition for them. Apparently the Kowa Six isn't a hot item.

This website has a lot of good information on what was actually made for the Kowa:

www.duncanrossphoto.com/.../Kowa_Camera_Information_Portal/kowa_camera_information_portal.html

KEH has practically nothing for a Kowa. You just have to be patient. It took me over 10 months of watching e-Bay before I could find a prism finder, handgrip, neckstrap and replacement waistlevel finder.

-Paul

I have the Vivitar version of this lens. It appears to be either a 3 group/4 element or a 3 group/3 element lens.The Vivitar version is front element focusing. That can be awkward if yoiu are using a polarizing filter or a rectangular lenshood.

I prefer the slightly brighter focusing image from an f2.0 or f1.8 lens for my purposes, but the f2.8 is perfectly acceptable for its results. It's fairly common on the older Vivitar 220 SL models.

-Paul

Ursula:

I neglected to mention that the C35 EF3 also has a built-in flash.

-Paul

Ursula:

Take a look at this website. if you click on a camera, it will show you different views.

http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rd2h-ari/KONICA_LIST.htm

There are a lot of variations of the Konica C35 line. The ones I know something about are:

C35: 38mm f2.8 lens (3/4 Tessar formula) scale focus, no flash.

C35 EFP: 38mm f4.0 lens (3/4 Tessar formula) fixed focus, flash

C35 EF3: 35mm f2.8, (3/4 Tessar formula) scale focus (metric and symbol).

Konica POPs are also C35 based. They come in different bright colors and have built-in flash and fixed focus. usually have a 38mm f4.0 lens

All of the ones with built-in flash use AA batteries for both camera and flash.

I picked up a C35 EF3 for $5 at Goodwill. Nice camera, but for it's size and capabilities I prefer the Nikon L35 AF. It was only $7 at the same Goodwill store. I prefer the Nikon lens, the more precise auto-focus and it too usees AA batteries.

-Paul

It's usually called a leica or Nikon cable release adapter. At one time it was sold as part of an after-market cable relase package. That's how I acquired all of mine. It's still available singly. Just search for it on e-Bay. If you live near a camera store like Ritz/Wolf or one of the few remaining camera stores you can probably get one for a few dollars.

http://photography.search.ebay.com/cable-release-adapter-leica_Cameras-Photo_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQfromZR40QQsacatZ625

-Paul

The LC is similar in size to a Konica Auto S2 or older Canonet.

This Japanese site has some good photos of it.

http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rd2h-ari/OLYMPUS_LIST.htm

-Paul

This is one of the earlier and perhaps the earliest model of the Canonet 28. The Canon Museum is probably the best source for early Canon history. This site:

http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rd2h-ari/CANON_LIST.htm

actually a page from a site called Japan Family Cameras has lot of different angle views of the Canon rangefinders. All of the text is in Japanese, but the photos are great.

The script logo itself was modernized in later models.

-Paul

I think a lot of credit should go to the late Herbert Keppler of first Modern Photogrpahy and later Popular Photography magazine for popularizing the use of wideangle lenses. He wrote many columns of his travels using moderate wideangle lenses, mostly 35mm lenses, and the examples he published created a lot of consumer interest in wideangles. I think that in turn pushed the manufacturers to make 35mm and 28mm lenses available at affordable prices.

-Paul

It should work just fine. The clearances inside the Leica are the same as inside the Zorki-1 which is the body on which many of the Jupiters were used. Just be careful mounting the lens so you don't scratch the back element. It doesn't touch the curtains or the metal curtain lathes(assuming that they are not flapping or loose. Have fun.

-Paul

Porters has TLR to threaded filter adapters. They are fast shippers, but a little on the high side for pricing.

http://porters.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PCS&Product_Code=072057&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

I have a set of Spiratone filters I picked up many years ago. You could try searching e-Bay under "Spiratone" as well.

-Paul

I interchange those lenses between a Kiev-2, Kiev-4A-1, Kiev-4A-2, Kiev-4 and Kiev 4M. They are suppposed to interchange, but sometimes they do not. My Kiev-4A-1 has a Helios on it most of the time. I had to use a small screwdriver blade to adjust the flange ridges to make a good fit. As a result, the Jupiter-8m doesn't fit well. The main difference seem to be between various models of the Helios. Some fit tighter than others. I generally try to keep one lens on a body and just carry a body for each lens.

-Paul

I agree with Dan. take the Rolleiflex.

The Solinar is a very nice lens, Tessar formula, 4 element/3 group, unit focusing. I think the Xenotar is is a more highly corrected 5/4 or 5/3 lens. My decision would be based on the general propensity for folding cameras to be less rigid and thus more likely to incur temporary lens-film plane misalignent. TLR's are very rigid and thus even though you may have a smaller negative to work with, the sharpness across the film plane may be more consistent.

Having said that, I took a Moskva-5 to Hawaii several years ago and never regretted it. The 6X9 size negative is very forgiving.

-Paul

Check your pressure plate. Is it set for 120 or 220? If it is set for 220 and you are using 120, the extra thickness might be telling the camera that you are out of film.

-Paul

I have an old magazine ad around here somewhere. It was in the market in the early to mid 1980's.

-Paul