richard_freedman1

<p>I too have been considering the acquisition of a used CFV back.<br>

Considering that Hasselblad just reduced their new price on the CFV-50 by $2700 this past spring, what would be the current fair used market values for well-looked-after-condition examples of CFV-I, CFV-II and CFV-39 backs?</p>

 

<p>Thanks for the advice; I ended up picking up a Canon 270EX (earlier one, not the II), it's perfect for my needs, and I'm quite sure a better fit than a 3rd party option.</p>

<p>Can anyone recommend a flash for Canon (5DMkII) with eTTL, that sports a low profile for compactness, something like Sunpak's RD2000, but preferably still takes 4 AA batteries (the Sunpak RD2000 only takes 2 batteries, and I question how efficient that would be). I already have 2 Canon 580EX units, they're wonderful, but sometimes I need grab-and-go compactness, and really like the low profile design. I'm kinda guessing that I'll have to settle with standard TTL rather than eTTL. A real shame that Canon hasn't added a built-in pop-up flash to any of their full-frame camera bodies, though I understand why. Anyway, any recommendations?</p>

<p>Have you talked to the folks at Headshots (headshotsrentals.com) yet? They're the official distributor for Canada, at least the newer digital stuff, so they must know about repairs. They're owned by Henry's now.</p>

How is it that my Epson 1280 will only do a borderless print with papers that they

claim to be "borderless" papers? Does this mean that if I chop an 8 1/2 X 11 sheet

down to 8x10, that the machine can sense that it's actually the wrong paper, and

won't give me a borderless print?

Pick up a cheap used NPC Polaroid back from eBay for about $125-ish, and you can

use pretty much any prism ever made. Only condition, you can't use the NPC on an

ELM-type body.

The Polaroid back for Holga shown in your link is a type 80 back, of which there was a model for Hasselblad from '73 to '82 and can be found for a song used, as they are not particularly desireable, being limited to only one or two types of Polaroid. I think it's safe to assume that the Holga one won't mount onto a Blad. I recommend you take a pass and pick up a used NPC back from eBay, so you can use the wide selection of current Polaroid and Fuji instant films.

No offence to the do-it-yourselfers, but this modification really should be done by a technician with an optical bench. The correct settings of all four sides/corners, ie-height, is crucial to accurate focus, and really cannot be accurately done by eye and a loupe. It's a one-time thing, so just pay the bucks to have it done right. As far as original accumatte vs the newer "D" version, they are just as bright as each other, but the newer ones are supposedly a bit more contrastier, though I personally cannot see the difference. Of the independents, Beattie, Brightscreen and Maxwell, it seems that Maxwell gets the most positive press here.

I don't think your decision needs to be based on lens quality, but rather upon body/back style and ergonomics. It's like comparing a European sedan to a minivan, both will get you there, you just have to choose which is more appropriate for you. I've personally found the Blad to be the best of most worlds for me, especially since my "other" photography job is weddings/events, which require the square format (10x10 albums are in) and ease of handling (try shooting a barmitzvah horah with an RB). I'm also enamoured with the rentability of Hassy stuff, from fisheye to 500mm, from Flexbody to TTL flash. You didn't mention if you make a living with your equipment or not, which can make a difference in your decision. Although I have to admit, sometimes I'm kind of jealous of what my cohorts can do with their RZ and 180mm lens, an incredible combination.

I picked up my copies at Lisle Kelco in Toronto, otherwise known as "Hasselblad Canada", I was at their service department picking up an overhauled lens and saw them there. I'm sure that any major authorized retailer would have a few copies to give.

Speaking of Hasselblad literature, it seems that the Hasselblad 2003 calendar is all sold out (here in Canada, anyway); does anyone have a copy they would sell to me? Next year I won't hesitate for a month and act on it pronto.

I just received the latest 2 booklets from Hasselblad: V System (82

pages) and H System (50 pages). Needless to say, to refer to them as

"brochures" would be to grossly under-represent them, they are

magnificent books with collector-quality reproductions and paper

stock, must-haves for all Hassy enthusiasts. The V-System book in

particular is loaded with tonnes of colour and B&W images and

informative commentary, reassuring us of Hasselblad's current

committment to it's square-format manual-focus line. I have even seen

a merchant selling these "free" books on eBay (shame!). Do yourself a

favour and grab a copy of these books before they're all gone.

Upgrade the ISO dial? Are you sure? I have the current model 503CW with the current 64-3200 dial as well as a 201F body with its 16-800 ISO wheel. When I brought the 201F to Hasselblad Canada (Lisle Kelco) to "upgrade" the range, they said "No-Can-Do". If Hassy USA is prepared to do this modification, I'd like to know more.

I have two NPC backs, one for colour, the other B&W. The NPC backs work with my PM90 prism, which won't allow any of the Hasselblad-brand Polaroid backs to fit (Polaplus, Polabasic, or the original 100). I once owned a Klinger Polaroid back for Hassy, and it worked with the original 90 degree prism, but not the current PM models. I too use the 503CW, along with the Winder CW; if you intend on getting this winder in the future, then stay away from the old Arca-Swiss Polaroid back (won't attach to body with winder in the way).

I've been using an F 110 f2 lens (pre-FE) for about a year now on my 201f, and find it wonderful. When I use it for candids at weddings, it's the shallow depth-of-field that makes it so magical. I guess it just depends on what you consider "street photography"; when I think street photography, I think wide angle, thus the 50mm f2.8 F/FE comes to mind. I don't use my 110 for portrait work, as I find it just doesn't have enough compression (compared to 150/180 lengths). I can appreciate your hesitation to just use 35mm when you own a Hassy 200-series camera--black & white street photography lends itself well to square format, with a bit of black rebate border thrown in for good measure (cliche or not!). Which 200-series camera do you have--do you need the metering connections? If not, save some cash and search eBay for an older/cheaper F version. Hopefully you're not a big filter user, as this lens uses the odd-ball bay70 size filter mount instead of the more common bay60.

If I remember correctly, the CB lenses won't allow you to use the focal plane shutter, ie-can't turn off the leaf shutter, so if you're a 201F user, consider CF/CFi/CFE lenses with their "F" setting. I'm a huge fan of the 110 f2, so wouldn't even consider the 100mm (f2 vs f3.5). By the way, as long as you're a 200-series owner, consider getting a few funky rare non-Hassy lenses converted to Hassy mount. I got a Russian fisheye 30mm converted, along with a Zeiss Jenna 180mm f2.8 lens. As for which shutter is best for all-rounnd shooting, the focal plane will give you instant-return mirror just like a 35mm, whereas the leaf shutter system goes black after hitting the shutter button.

The 42293 was the first of a number of metered 45 degree prisms that all look exacally the same but differ slightly. It was introduced in 1981, also called the VFC-6, it was the first Hassy prism to offer a shoe mount on top for on-camera flash (replacing the earlier NC-2 prisms of which we constantly see the Kiev copy of). It was replaced in 1989 with the PME-3 which was re-calibrated for the acute-matte screen, which was replaced with the PME 5 in 1991 which has a cut out for the F/TCC data display; which was updated in 1994 with the PME 51 (slightly better electronics in the metering system). Today's PME-45, a modification of the PME-90, is a whole different kettle of fish, not resembling the previous mentioned models (much more metering options).

As a busy wedding/barmitzvah photographer, I would be lost without my 503CW + winder + D-Flash40 combo. But I don't think your shooting conditions call for this. The winder isn't so much about speed so much as about handling with a prism and flash, keeping everything one reasonably compact unit without the need for a bulky bracket. For the amount you will need a flash, you may want to consider picking up just a simple Vivitar 285HV (I use one as back-up). I strongly recommend picking up a collapsible reflector that fits in your bag (I personally like white/silver). Also, if you are not going to get a prism right away and just use the waist-level finder, it's probably better not to use the motor winder, which is better suited to eye-level use.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't Hasselblad offer the closest to full image viewing of all med-format systems? My old Kowa system was horrible for cutting off image in the viewfinder that was on film; my friend's Pentax 6x7 system is even worse! Bronica/Mamiya/Rollei, I coudn't tell you.

Firstly, as a 503CW user, I strongly suggest you consider upgrading your decision to this camera over the 501. In addition to TTL-flash, if you try out the Winder CW just once, you'll be hooked.

Secondly, it seems like Hasselblad wants to copy Mamiya's approach, which offers a motorized autofocus 645 model, along with a larger-format truly pro option (RZ67). Heck, even Bronica offers multiple format systems, all of which are incompatible with each other.

Thirdly, this new camera definitely won't have any affect on the popularity of the hughly successful 500-series, but may very well spell the end of the less-popular 200-series.

Fourth, expect Hasselblad to come out with their own digital back(s), instead of expecting after-market companies to fill the niche. Who knows, maybe they'll even offer something that's somewhat affordable (yeah, right).

Fifth, think of the outrage when Canon announced that all FD-lens & body owners/users could take a hike and brought out the EOS line. Lots of screaming, but in hindsight that move catapulted Canon ahead of Nikon for the first time. In fact, we photographers frowned when Rollei abandoned their existing med-format system for today's electronic 6000-system, a true kick-ass system for those that can afford it.

I'll reserve further comments on the new Hasselblad system until I get to actually play with one, except to say, don't we already have enough auto-focus 645 camera systems currently on the market to choose from?

I've ben using the 150 for years, but since I recently got the 110 f2 (for my 201f camera), I'm considering dumping the 150 for the 180. The 250 is just too long (and too slow, unless I get the non-leaf version, which is damn expensive), so I'm leaning towards the 180. Also, since I do a lot of headshots and look for lots of compression and shallow depth-of-field, the 180 is looking more and more attractive. Of course the 150 is great for three-quarter length shots, which the 180 might be a bit too tight for.

On a related note, we TTL-using Hasselblad shooters need a better selection of compatible flash units. The D-40 is excellent, but expensive, with no manual over-ride; the Sunpak 120J that it's based on doesn't offer much of an aperture range for automatic (example: for ISO400, you've got f11, f16 or f22, but nothing smaller (most wedding work is 5.6 or 8). We need a small (shoe-mount) unit with manual, TTL, and a good range of auto.

Hmmm, is it the digital back itself, or the interaction of the back with the Contax camera in general? Anyone out there using the other version of this digital back with the Mamiya 645 camera?

Nigel,

I know I'm going to get a lot of flack from 2000-series users, but it's my opinion that they're not worth the trouble, with the possible exception being the last model, the 2003FCW from 1988. Personally, I would search eBay (and other sources) for a used but mint 201F body (circa 1994), with a major shutter upgrade (the same one found on the top-of-the-line 205FCC). Also, as these cameras (200 and 2000 series) are somewhat strange beasts, I wouldn't let a repair technician other than a fully authorized Hasselblad repair technician touch them.

I had the opportunity to work with a friend's SL66 with Polaroid back, and it was cool! This Polaroid back had a built-in cropping bar that dropped down when you wanted 645-format, and swung out of the way when you were shooting square. When I'm shooting 645 with my Hasselblad, I have to place a special 645-format mask into the back of the camera before attaching the Polaroid back, and while it works, it's a pain compared to Rollei's approach. Good luck with your search! (Does NPC make an aftermarket one?)