steve_hamley
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Posts posted by steve_hamley
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<p>In addition to the Portrait Ektars (there's a 16" version too), the 250mm WF Ektar usually brings a high price in good condition.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Ramiro,</p>
<p>IIRC is internet abbreviation for "if I remember correctly". It also helps if you can spell, which apparently I cannot; it's Balham.</p>
<p>So try here:</p>
<p>http://www.optil.co.uk/</p>
<p>Best of luck, Steve</p>
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<p>Yes, it can be fixed. John van Stelton at Focalpoint re-cements lenses.</p>
<p>http://www.focalpointlens.com/</p>
<p>But it isn't cheap (about 200 US $) per cemented interface (you'd need one re-cemented), and there is some risk to the lens as it has to be heated.</p>
<p>Arax in USSR and Ballham in England also used to do this kind of work, but I think Arax is out of business and IIRC Ballham doesn't have a sterling reputation for timeliness.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Yes, separation of the glasses - mine screwed into a Compound 3 from a 210 mm Xenar.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>http://www.salzgeber.at/disc/index.html</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
<p>PS, Do remember to remove the disk before taking the photo...</p>
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<p>Markus,</p>
<p>The answer to all your needs. Send S.K. Grimes your shutter and flange, and Adam will do the rest.</p>
<p>http://www.skgrimes.com/</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Yes, and even Ilex #4 will fit with no problem. But Ilex shutters come with a flange, not a retaining ring/nut, so you'll also have to have the flange mounted to the board, unless you cheat and use the flange as a retaining ring, which I do at least temporarily.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>The very first Symmars were a Dagor design and most, if not all were uncoated. A friend of mine has one.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Wood will warp if it has pressure on it for an extended time, and especially in a warm humid environment or through wide temperature changes. So if someone carried it in a car with the leg(s) extended and a pack, or case on it or leaning against it, I would expect it to warp.<br>
Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>8x10 wide open, 11x14 at small stops for a combined lens:</p>
<p>http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/bauschlomb_8.html</p>
<p>Scroll to page 54</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Don't save them too long - the developer pods don't keep well, although you can develop the negs in regular developer. But it sort of defeats the purpose.</p>
<p>You can get Pan-X aerial roll film which is allegedly the same film although you'll have to cut it.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Try Steve Hopf's GG - I have a few and am very happy with them. Steve does business on eBay as "photofixation".</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>It should be fine mold-wise if it's been sealed.</p>
<p>If you're worried, pull one sheet and look at it!</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>What's your budget? Usable Kodak 2Ds and Agfas can be had for as little as $300, sometimes with a lens.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Matthew,</p>
<p>You do know that Polaroid film is no longer made or available except as dated film??</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Wisner's been out of business for at least a couple of years,<br>
Try:<br>
http://www.custombellows.co.uk/<br>
But $275 is probably about right, there's no such thing as a cheap custom made bellows.<br>
Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Ben,</p>
<p>I was going to reply "Who cares?" until I thought about your post more closely.</p>
<p>You need to tell them why LF is different, not better.</p>
<p>Great photographs can be made with a cell phone camera. The Mona Lisa is about 5 dpi from viewing distance. And yes I've seen it.</p>
<p>http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/notcamera.htm</p>
<p>But when you want to make larger prints, use alternative printing processes (platinum, Azo, ...), utilize camera movements, and so on, LF has advantages. Some cameras and some lenses are works of art or icons of a period in themselves.</p>
<p>For what they seem to want to do, posting superficial snaps on line, it would seem they have the right tool.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
<p> </p>
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I actually do use mine. True it gets soft in the corners of 4x5 wide open, but then that's why I use it in addition to the shallow DOF. As Peter points out, if you're wanting conventional Tessar performance, this is not the lens you want.
FWIW, mine (sunken mount) was a direct fit into a Compund #4 that originally housed (and still does sometimes) a WWII era Schneider Xenar 32cm f:5.5. The barrel length and iris placement seems the same as close as I can measure it, and I was happy to discover a 21cm f:3.5 Xenar will also fit the same with the same barrel length and iris placement.
Cheers, Steve
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<p>Lens and Repro has one listed.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Quality Light Metric in LA CA.You can Google them and see recommendations and contact info.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Sean,</p>
<p>I think Frank's nailed it. The 5x7/13x18 holders will interchange in cameras as long as they are made to the international standard. But the 13x18 cm film is USUALLY a little too wide to fit in a 5x7 holder, and 5x7 film will USUALLY be loose or even fall out of a 13x18 holder, or so they say. So you have to be careful sourcing film unless you have both kinds of holders.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Brian,</p>
<p>John gave a good answer; in short with proper movement you can get everything from 10-40 feet in focus IN A SINGLE PLANE. If your equipment, or parts of it, are outside the plane then it will not be in focus short of stopping down.</p>
<p>The classic example is an "L" shaped composition, say a tree 50 feet away and a foreground rock 6 feet from your feet. You can get any point on the tree trunk and the rock in focus, but the ground in between and other points on the tree trunk are only in focus by stopping down.</p>
<p>And yes, if you're depending on stopping down to achieve DOF, 420mm is long for this composition at the stated distance.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
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<p>Gerard,</p>
<p>It isn't a problem. I have the GT3541XLS and removed the legs at the first section to install bicycle inner tube sections as leg protectors. Other than you need to keep up with parts (of course), the only issue versus the earlier models is that the legs have to go in in a specific orientation for the anti-rotation feature. But that wasn't an issue.</p>
<p>You may want to disassemble outside the first time, IIRC there were a bit of CF fibers that were probably left overs from manufacturing and were very sharp, like tiny splinters. You may also want to put a tiny bit of wax or lubricant on the threads, but NOT on the bushings.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>
nikon large format lens is it good?
in Large Format
Posted
<p>150mm is normal on 4x5. As an approximation, double the MF focal length to get the 4x5 equivalent; so 70mm would give you roughly the same field of view as 35mm on 645. So look for a 65mm to 75mm lens.</p>
<p>Cheers, Steve</p>