damond_lam

I can offer some specific experience.

I just did a 2-week long photo trip last month in China (Sichuan - south west part), with my wife and a friend. I brought Hassy 2000FC with 50mm, 80mm and 150mm FE lenses, and Canon EOS-1V with 20mm and 100-400L, one Gitzo 1228 tripod and one type of film - Fuji Velvia for both formats. My wife traveled with me and she helped a bit. Landscape, nature and people were the main subjects of 28 rolls of 6x6 and 8 rolls of 35mm exposed. I have a Rollei 6x6 and 35mm slide projector so it is easy to tell the difference between the two formats on the screen.

If I do it again I would purchase/bring 250mm and 350mm hassy lenses and leave the Canon at home. My friend brought the 38mm 903 but did not use it much this time.

If I am traveling alone I would bring the Canon with two bodies (EOS-1V and a Elan 7 with pop up flash) and two zooms (new 24-70L and 100-400L) and a light weight tripod. Again only one film - Velvia.

If I am traveling alone with MF I would bring the 2000FC, 80mm and 150mm FE, perhaps the 903 (that I plan to buy) and the Gitzo tripod.

There's enough weight for me.

Hassy's waist level finder is much better than that of the Canon finder. A lot of local people (whom I took pictures) were excited and amazed of what they saw in the Hassy finder.

Lutz, if you took the same picture with Noct wide open you would not

be able to recognize any subjects on the desk (in the background).

And it comes with four darkened corners for free.

<p>

I wonder if my FE150/2.8 would have the similair bokeh.

I am an owner of a M6 and a couple of Leica lens. Last week, with the

help of a full-time photographer friend and a full endorsement from

my better half, I got myself a used 2000FC, 150/2.8 F lens (both in

mint condition), brand new A12 magazine and Acute Matte screen with

grid for US$2'200. My test slides showed up wonderful pictures. I've

looked at 500 series body but it does not have the flexibility of the

2000 series body with built-in electronic focal plane shutter. And

the current 200 series is overpriced and come with the features I

don't need 90% of the time. Discontinued 2000 series enables the use

of larger aperture FE lenses without lens shutter and all other Hassy

lenses with lens shutter. I prefer that you email me for further

questions since this is a Leica forum. I'll try to answer.

What is your favourite body alongside a M6?

<p>

Hasselblad 501CM and/or a mid-range Sony DV. Think about it.....

Huang Shan (Yellow Mountain), China in Jan. It will be very cold but

Jan is the best season for its grand scenic views. Tourists are few

because of the sub-zero temp. Tmw we are leaving for Juizhaiguo. We

are joining organized tours specialized in photography for these

destinations. In both trips I am sure I am not the only one who uses

Leica. If you want more details please let me know.

Dear Mr. Watson,

<p>

I am not very fast with my M because the Noctilux is my main Leica

lens. I am also not very fast with 75/1.4 which I have borrowed from

a good friend. I am pretty fast with any lens with a focus tab (like

35/1.4 ASPH - my other lens). I use Canon for the telephoto, mainly

with the L zooms, and occasionally the wide size (20/2.8).

<p>

I like reading your experience.

<p>

"weigth, durability, optical quality, reliability, I could write a

book"

<p>

I would love to read. As I am both an amateur and beginner, I love to

read and learn your stuff. Seriously.

I was a bit surprised. The reason why we have Leica equipment at all

is because of its lens and optics (between 21mm and 90mm). And

35mm 'cron or 'lux M are the essential lens beside 50mm 'cron, 'lux

or Noct. It is hardly an option for many Leica owners, including me.

<p>

You don't think you will be using a 35mm much because you have not

taken a lot of pictures with the 35/1.4 ASPH yourself and see the

results. The color, the contrast, the sharpness and the shadow

details are just incredible and different. If you get an Voiglander

35mm I am afraid you will not use it much, as you've said.

I'd rather put my name on my second hand M6 Classic (engraved in red

on top plate) and "You have to make more nice pictures since you've

spent so much money on a Leica" or "There is no picture exposed

without pressing the shuttle release" engraved on the back of the

camera in black.

<p>

This camera belongs to the shelf of a Leica collector. If I go out

and use this camera I will explain many times to people that I am

not "William Klein" and having said so I do not borrow this camera

from a celebrity stranger named William Klein either.

Dear Watson,

<p>

Your pictures are nice. I also have an EF 20/2.8 and would like to

see more pictures from your 20/2.8. I also use Leica M, Canon EOS and

Olympus digicams. I think in general there are two styles of making

35mm pictures. Snap shots and pictures with tripod. It is not divided

between Leica or non-Leica. When I feel like creative and would like

to catch the moments, chasing interesting lights, shadows and

composition I use EOS or the digicams because I can operate them

quickly. Camera is the last thing one worries about when one is

having a flow in one's creative mind and simultaneously has to

consider composition, shadows, lights and the exact moment. My M with

Noctilux is sometimes relatively slow to operate but I have many

great moments with it doing available light snap shots. If I have a

firm idea of what exactly I would like to take I will bring a tripod

at certain time of the day then set it up slowly and make just

exactly the few shots. I enjoy doing both. Having said that I must

admit I only have seven months into this expensive hobby.

Bud, my comments did not refer to your photos, but Richard's. I've

looked at your photos which have pretty good bokeh.

<p>

http://www.fototime.com/29F5A9A5C9AFADF/standard.jpg

<p>

http://www.fototime.com/ABC05FEF50427A6/standard.jpg

<p>

Here are my bokehs. One with 50/1.0 and the other with 75/1.4 Both

were scanned with Nikon Coolscan 4000ED.

Both pictures do not look sharp or contrasty. They look milky. Have

you used lens hood with them? The backgrounds look "out of focus"

rather than blurred or having nice "bokeh". You need 50mm or more

(75mm and 90 or even 135mm) wide open to generate natural bokeh. 35mm

has inherently larger depth of field and the fact you have a f2.0

does not help much in producing nice bokeh. I have a 35/1.4 APSH

whose OOF background is always a little too sharp wide open. Even my

Canon EF100/2.0 does it better, even though it is not in the same

league as my Noctilux or the 75/1.4 I borrowed very often from my

friend.

Around 4 weeks ago, I needed only one wide angle and looked at the

following:EF 17-35/2.8L, EF 20-35/3.5-4.5, Tokina 20-35/2.8, EF

24/2.8 and EF 20/2.8. Finally I selected the 20/2.8. This short focal

length is not easy to use in general landscape (give you boring

picture if not too careful in composition) but is great in the metro

cities and tight spots. However it has fairly good control in terms

of flare and distortion and is pretty sharp for a wide angle. I

wanted the 17-35L but I am afraid it is going to be replaced very

soon. I may want to get the new L. 20-35/3.5-4.5 was said to be a

excellent value/optics however I will be stuck with Provia 400F if I

handhold camera in overcast. At half price of 17-35L Tokina is

optically good and fast but I always want a Canon optics. 24/2.8 is

the best focal length for wide angle however it does not have an USM.

Again I expect a replacement of 24/2.8 USM very soon. If you look

thru the front element of 24/2.8 and 20/2.8 you will find that the

20/2.8 seems to have darker coating (alike 17-35L) and slightly

better built. So finally I selected the 20/2.8 USM.

Dear Richard,

<p>

I live in Hong Kong and purchase Leica lens in HK. Schmidt Marketing

offers 2 year warranty in Hong Kong. In Singapore I believe the

distributor/service center is Jebsen and Jesson, not Schmidt.

<p>

Please find below the authorized Leica dealers in HK. There is even a

price list for all lenses if you look around their web page. Street

price is around 75-80%% of the listed price.

<p>

http://www.schmidtmarketing.com/CGI-bin/Dealer.asp?DV=PHD&CO=SPA&PS=PH

<p>

In the humid environment in South East Asia such as HK and Singapore,

it is a good idea to have a humidity controlled dry cabinet for

storage when you are not using the cameras and lenses.

M6 with 35/1.4 Sumilux ASPH. Tripod is a must. Remember to always put

on lens hood and remove any UV filter during shooting.

John,

<p>

You are correct. The meter has taken the space orginally occupied by

the self-timer in M6. Last Friday I spoke to the technician at Leica

service center, who did a checkup and calibration on my 6-year old

M6. He told me if there were a self-timer then it had to be a

mechanical one. Unfortunately he thinks there is no space inside a

M6. Potential solution: make the camera slightly larger or change its

shape (a marketing dilemma), or design an electronic shutter with

built-in timer while keeping the same look and size (another

marketing dilemma). These solutions do sound too elegant.

<p>

I'd rather live by using a pin-type screw-in timer made by a small

Japanese firm.

About Noctilux.

<p>

I bought a Noct two months ago because of its reputation. Noct is

about the bokeh, the color depth, the warm fuzzy feeling in the

images it captures. It's heavy but helps handholding in low light.

The reason I was attracted to Leica M was because of this lens

mainly, on top of the 35/1.4 and 75/1.4. Leica M simply has little

competition at those focal lengths in 35mm territory.

<p>

Because of this post I am able to receive Erwin's newsletter in my

mail box. Thanks, guys.

Your battery is low. Replace the battery again. The meter will not

work properly (just as you described) when the battery output is less

than 2.7V. They normally are rated at 3.0V. I had the similar

experience and learned the hard way (by sending it to Leica service

center) that it was the batteries I bought new that were faulty

(sitting on the shelf for too long). My camera was OK.

Filter

The use of filters with the Noctilux-M f/1/50 mm is not recommended.

<p>

It is in the instruction booklet. There must be some issue with

filter on this lens.

<p>

Filters simply can introduce more flare and glare sometimes. Try

shooting to a bright light source around with and without a filter (I

use Leica UV filters) you should see the slight difference (slides

under a loupe). Expose a roll of Provia 100F sytematically with and

without the filter and find out yourself. Everyone should do it and

report his/her finding two weeks from now right here, especially

those who care about image quality.

<p>

It is clear that UV filter has no benefit to image quality. The

coating in our lens has enough to deal with haze, UV......However we

need protection of the front element. So we use the filter when we

are not using the camera and when we are shooting handholding the

camera. Remove the filter when we put the camera on a tripod in a

friendly environment.

Always use hood and remove the UV filter when shooting. The

difference (slide film under loupe) is most obvious when you shoot in

sunny days.

<p>

My Noctilux instruction handbook asks me not to put any filter on

during shooting otherwise it will induce flare and reduce contrast.

<p>

Do a search on "flare" and "glare" at photo.net and read.

<p>

When I am not shooting I remove the hood and put the UV filter on.

A grip is necesary when I mount a Noctilux or a 75 'lux. I used both

and a grip helps. When I used my light weight 35 'lux which is still

heavier than your cron, then I leave the grip at home. I've tried

another full alum grip made in Boston (maybe it is GMP grip) for two

weeks but it was heavier and hurt my finger nails. Then I replaced it

with the Leica M grip.

Yes, I would appreciate a built-in self-timer in the new version of

M6. Do I have to give a reason? I think not. It was on the M3, I

believe.

I have similar experience. I found two reasons for that.

<p>

1/The contrast exceeded what the print film could handle. If the sky

is blue and the landscape would probably be underexposed. A polarizer

would help to bring the constrast to a smaller range.

<p>

2/ Your lab has made some undesirable adjustment.

<p>

In such situation, use no filter because it can cause flare. Most

lenses have coating already to combat UV. Always put a lens hood on.

Sometimes I think short telephoto is better (optically speaking but

it is not flexible for composition) for landscape in a bright day

because I can use longer lens hood to cut off the strayed lights

(staryed lights make my pciture hazy). For landscape please shoot

slides then you cannot blame your lab.

Dear Stephen,

<p>

Why do you want Sigma lens? Optically Canon lens is better. Tokina is

between Sigma and Canon. This is my general feeling after reading

tons of user reviews.

<p>

There are three top quality Canon telephoto primes which are

reasonably priced:

1/ 85/1.8 USM $345 or 100/2.0 USM $399

2/ 300/4L USM (Non IS version) around $800 new if you search around

<p>

I have the 100/2.0 (very sharp) and the bokeh is nice. I own Noctilux

50/1.0 and use 75/1.4 Sumilux (Leica M) very often so I know a bit

about bokeh (blurred background).

<p>

Get a 2x teleconverter then you have 200/4.0.

<p>

I care about optical quality and weight so relatively inexpensive

Canon primes fit my bill.