tallman

<p>Jeff, thanks again for all your answers. Can you talk about how your decision making process works as far as which images are finished in color? Do you know when you are shooting, or decide later? What's your criteria for choosing color? This was easier for me when I shot film, but now I can second guess myself. </p>

<p>Jeff, I have admired your work for a long time, thank you for sharing your work and your insights with us! <br>

I notice that you don't concern yourself with details as much as many of the popular wedding photographers in the US do. Is this a personal style choice or due to the cultural differences in the weddings over in England?</p>

Hi Leica people,

 

I'm thinking about starting up a Leica system and would love some

advice from the experienced. I've been using nikon fm2s and an fm3a

for years and I love them, but I need something quieter and I love

the personality of the expensive german glass. I like to use

handheld lightmeters, so I don't need to have a meter in camera.

From what I've read, I was thinking of looking for an M4 body but I

don't know all the subtleties of the different versions: M4-2, M4, M4-

P? What were the differences? Are some more reliable, etc? Should

I go for something older than M4 or am I better off with one of the

newer M6 or MP? I'm mostly concerned with the viewfinder. I find

myself shooting in dark conditions a lot and I like big, bright

viewfinders to focus in. I will probably start with a 50/f2 and

eventually add a 35mm and that's probably it. Are there different

versions of the 50/f2 that I should be aware of? Thanks for any

advice. Mike

merci<div></div>

Merci, HCB<div></div>

I noticed today that when you link to a member's summary page, there

are no links to portfolio folders unless you are signed in. Was this

intentional or not? I find it very useful to be able to send a link

to a non member so they can look at my stuff. It even helped me get

a job. I would send them this link:

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=380960

 

But now all this shows is my bio, unless I am signed into the site.

I found I could send this link instead, but I don't like this as much:

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?include=all&user_id=380960

Thanks David, the spring that you mention is the one that my repair person has replaced twice for me while doing a CLA on the body. I guess my question would be: is this problem repeating due to the fact that I have an out of service lens (maybe has a shutter that is difficult for the body to trip?) or is the body just prone to jamming?

I know the Hasselblad jamming issue has been beaten to death, but I

couldn't find anything about my particular situation. I have a 500c/m

that has jammed on me 3 times since I got it - each time involving my

using the MLU function. I prefire the mirror, then press the shutter

button, somehow the lens shutter doesn't fire or fires too late and

gets out of synch with the body and it seems like the typical jam I

read about. I like to do stuff myself so I read up on unjamming. I

can get the lens unjammed by turning the screw that resets the lens

shutter. When I did this a few days ago, it took some finger strength

to turn the screw but it didn't seem like I was forcing it. The

shutter was reset, and the camera no longer jammed. The problem now

is that the rear shutter does not close automatically when I let go

of the release button. It will close when I wind the crank to re-

cock, so I have a mostly working camera. The lens shutter almost

always fires as it should when the camera is in this state, but

sometimes requires that I jiggle the crank a bit. This same thing has

happened twice before, the first time I had it fixed with a CLA on

the body at the same time, the second time happened within a few

months so I got it fixed again by the same person (a very well

respected repair guy). Told myself I wouldn't try to unjam it myself

again, but that was over a year ago. So now I am in a different state

and the repair is past warranty so it's not so practical to take it

to the same shop. I'll see what the local shop here says (Le Zot in

Burlington, VT) about it, but depending on how much it will be I'm

not sure what to do. I'd be willing to fiddle with it myself if it

might be something easy, but my old repair person said it was a blown

spring that needed replacing. I'm wondering if anyone has had this

problem has heard of it? If the repair is expensive (last time I

think it was a little over $100) I might be inclined to just buy

another used body (500 c/m bodies going for about $200 on ebay) since

this one seems to have a recurring problem. Or is the recurring

problem due to the way I'm using it, something I'm breaking when I

unjam it, or perhaps my lens? Lens is an Planar 80/2.8C, I haven't

had that serviced since I got it. Any thoughts? I love the camera and

won't give it up, just looking for the best way to apply limited $$.