john_chong1

Hi everyone, re the Mamiya 6 I recall speaking with a guy at the local camera store commenting on the 6x6 version saying that many of his customers disliked the collapsible mount as it was prone to unwanted movement when fully extended; he also mentioned that some of them had even taken steps to secure the camera in its extended stage permanently by installing some screws to arrest the unwanted movement.

Is this another concocted story or is there some accuracy as to what I was told.

Hi everyone, can anyone please mail me a list of the standard shots taken during a wedding; my friend requires a list that she can sit down with in order to help coordinate the day's events. If anyone has a list archived that they could mail me I'd appreciate it very much.

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cheers,

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John Chong

Hi Gene, re your

"I have now shot several rolls of Konica 120 and find that the presence of the backing reduces the "blown" effect that Kodak

IR is most well know for and I find appealing. Konica will blow up to 16x20 with out excessive grain, but the IR effect is not

extremely pronounced. 35mm Kodak is very grainy, so getting clean blow ups with max IR effect is not in the cards. One of

my buddies uses 4x5 Kodak IR and gets beautiful 16x20 prints with the "blown" effect."

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Did you use a 25A red filter or the darker/opaque black 87A/B/C filter? I've found, using the Kodak, that the 87s give a more pronounced IR image vs the red which actually allows some visible light to be registered. Hope to hear from you on this list.

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cheers,

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John

Thanks to all for sharing their experiences and knowledge of the 500C. I'm going to check out the camera some time this week and then decide. My budget doesn't really allow me to look at the C/M OR 501C, but I think the 500C should suffice nicely despite some of its shortcomings.

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thanks again to all,

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cheers,

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John

Hi all, I've a remote chance of buying my 1st MF and it might be the older Hassy 500C w/planar 2.8 and 12 back. Is there aything I should know about this camera re compatability with today's accessories etc. Should I hold out for the 500C/M instead? I've heard that the 500C has a darker viewscreen, but is it possible to change it with a beattie or accu matte? Any information on the 500C on its pro and cons and why I need or need not look at a 500C/M would be greatly appreciated.

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cheers,

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John

Hi all, just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a developer that yields maximum shadow speed while maintaining Tech Pan's ultra fine grain. I've used the Technidol, which allows me to shoot at 25 asa, and the Rodinal at 1:100, but I can only rate it then at 12 asa.

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thanks in advance,

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John

Hi, Mike I think your shutter may be out of sync with your flash. My coworker had the same problem with his Mamiya. The shutter curtain was sticking and was still in midframe as the flash popped, hence one side was underexposed due to lack of strobe exposure, yet exposed nonetheless due to ambient light.

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You may be able to see the curtain dragging if you open up the back, set a really slow shutter speed ie. 1 sec and watch for curtain drag. Hope this helps.

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cheers,

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John

for even more info on the secretive world of camera repair check out this url: http://www.edromney.com/. This guy sells manuals and kits with special tools etc. that'll allow you to do your own repairs, mind you the kit isn't cheap.

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cheers,

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John

Hi guys,thanks for the info re rear-curtain and front curtain sync. I simply decided to use my camera with front curtain sync and a strobe and simply expose for 1 or 2 secs. It won't be the same but I can get some relatively similar results. I also shooting an unblurred frame and to see if I can simulate the effect in photoshop.

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thanks again,

Hi all, does anyone know if there is an easy way of getting the effect of an out of focus shadow behind a subject?; apparently this can be done if you use a strobe and a slow shutter speed and have a camera that has a rear curtain sync. I lack a 35mm camerathat lacks rear curtain sync so I guess one way is to use a long shutter speed an manually pop the strobe at the end of the exposure, but it'd be very difficult for something like a half second or 1 second exposure versus an 8 second exposure. Does anyone know of an easier way to get the rear curtain effect? Any advice is much appreciated.

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cheers and TIA,

I would opt for the HG cell and not the 1.5V alkalines. A mercury, HG, cell makes 1.35VDC until it dies. It doesn't gradually decrease its output like the alkaline replacement. A camera recalibrated for a 1.5 volt alkaline will probably give inaccurate readings as it gradually weakens. Does anyone know of a silver oxide replacement battery and its characteristics? Perhaps that may be another option if you can't find any of the mercury cells.

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If you're only shooting negative film an inaccurate reading may not matter since most of todays emulsions are known to have quite a bit of latitude; just don't try shooting chromes with the onboard meter! If you need some addresses in Canada for some Mercury cells I can supply them if you want.

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cheers,

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John

Apparently a 1.5 volt battery will give a faulty reading on the Yashica, but just how much is hard to say. I conducted a small test with my older Canonet and the meter was off by one stop. WRT the Yashica please see the below email sent to me:

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From: Paschalis Ligdas <pascal@isr.umd.edu>

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 15:33:38 -0500 (EST)

To: jchong@media-services.ubc.ca

Subject: Re: frying camera's electronics

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I can't speak about the Canonet but I know I got wrong

exposure when I used 1.5 alkaline batteries in my

yashica TLR, instead of the 1.35 mercury. So I recommend

not using the 1.5 even though it may have little or no

effect in your camera.

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However, there are some replacements, like the zinc-air

battery, which is 1.35v but it dies much faster than

alkaline baterries, so it's expensive. I thought you

might be able to find the mercury batteries in Canada.

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Pascal

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