ramy_sadek

<p>That is the one. Thank you!</p>

<p>Howdy All,<br>

A while back on this forum someone posted an HCB photo as an example of visual thought. This photo was comprised of two old men on a bench, behind them a mural advertisement with two horses, and a horse-drawn buggy coming around the corner. It came up during a crazy debate about whether HCB was a good photographer, or some such madness. Does anyone know the photo or thread I'm talking about? It would be extremely helpful for me.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>-Ramy</p>

This thread has so far ignored the differences in the technological problems in an M camera vs an SLR. From what I understand, these

differences are can be quite large so it may not all be down to company size. The requirements of an M sensor and the M lens line is

very different from an SLR, making comparisons between them difficult.

 

Differences in bayonet geometry, angular sensitivity (e.g. for wide angle lenses) etc create problems that may not yet have a solution.

It's not clear that existing high-resolution sensors would perform well at all in an M due to these factors. Problems like vignetting and

color dispersion (and probably a host of other problems) would likely result b/c of the shallow angles created in the M mount with wide

angle lenses. I'm sure one of our forum members can expound on this at length. Yes?

 

The suggestion that one can simply dial up the sensitivity means that a .95 is a waste of resources may not be accurate. Perhaps as

Drew suggested, improving from f1 to f.95 is easy, or fits easily due to changes in formulae. Consider instead that Leica may have

spent enormous effort and vast sums of money on this tiny change. That seems pretty dumb, doesn't it? Unless they project significant

ROI on this one product, I'm guessing is they wouldn't exhaust their R&D on it. That is, assuming they are really building an f.95 at all,

which is yet to be seen.

 

I secretly hope its true so some used f1.0's come up for sale.

 

-Ramy

You might also check tamarkin, and photovillage.

Slightly used, very clean equipment is available at significantly reduced prices. From your description, the M line sounds like the right choice for a "to go" kit since they are a little lighter and smaller and the reflex line. That said, the R6.2 is small and fairly light. The viewfinder on the Leicaflex is better, but I cannot say how large the difference is. I've been happy with mine. I also very much like the R8 (and R9) b/c the meter is more a little more informative.

 

(Doug, what do you think of the R6.2 finder?)

The difference between the TTL and the "classic" TTL flash metering. The numbers (.72, .85, .58) refer to the magnification level in the viewfinder. For example the .58 shows more of a scene than the others, and is ideal for wider lenses, whereas if you plan to use longer focal lengths often, the .85 might be more desirable. The .72 is the most commonly used. There is also a 1.25x magnifier that can be attached to the viewfinder. For example, if you have a .72 and want to improve focusing ability with a 135mm lens, this attachment can help focusing accuracy.

Hi Christian,

 

Regarding the battery draining I find that leaving the shutting uncocked is not effective, and I have to turn the shutter dial to off to preserve batter life. Although the meter does not work with the shutter uncocked, it seems there is still a way for the circuit to drain the battery, at least on some M6TTLs. Perhaps yours is like mine!

That hurts me. Where is this shop?

Hello All,

 

A friend of mine purchased a D-Lux 3 recently. The batch of D-Lux 3s in her run

have a known shutter problem so the camera was sent to Leica for service.

Supposedly it's an easy fix with a reasonable turn around time (4 weeks).

 

It's been over two months now, and she's had no word. Leica doesn't return her

calls, and she's unable to get an answer from them. At this point she is quite

frustrated. How best to proceed?

 

Thanks!

 

-Ramy

Hi Rich,

 

If I have understood correctly, you are saying that the strap you ordered does not have the metal loops that attach to the lugs on the camera body. Is this correct?

 

The strap should have two metal bits on its ends which attach to the lugs. If they aren't there, it's incomplete or defective.

 

They attach in a clever (counterintuitive) way, but they work well.

 

-Ramy

Paul's photo in Torrance (paulsphoto.com) Samy's Camera on Fairfax (samys.com), and bel-

air camera (belaircamera.com) have reasonable used leica gear.

This is how mine sounds too, and others I've played with. I believe it is the normal sound.

Issa, I believe the comment about the M6TTL being preferable if you intend to add an M7

or M8 to your setup refers to the size and orientation of the shutter speed knob.

 

On the M6TTL the knob is large, reaching the front of the camera body. It increases/

decreases exposure in the direction indicated by the exposure meter arrows. On all

previous Ms and the MP the knob turns the other way to increase/decrease exposure (and

therefore opposite the arrows). I believe the M7 and M8 function like the M6TTL, whereas

previous Ms and the MP function the other way.

 

For many this becomes an issue if they have multiple M bodies, as having differing shutter

dial function can become annoying when switching between them. So, for consistency,

some prefer one knob or the other, depending on what set of gear the body is meant to

match.

Barry is right, HDR is helpful in scenes with a difference between bright and dark areas that

exceeds 9 stops. In most scenes, it does not enable performance beyond that of regular

exposure.

Hi Sotirios,

 

It's great that you are interested in the R8, it's a wonderful camera, I love it. I hope you find one that you like.

 

That said, I'm not sure the hassy would be out of your price range, you can get into a complete setup (slightly used but in good condition)

 

In your post you mentioned only wide lenses to start, which makes me think you would be most pleased with an M rather than an R. You can easily get into a M6 and 35mm for 2200 to 2700.

 

If you want to do long telephoto work, a reflex camera is the best way to go. But if you are interested in shorter focal lengths it may be worth considering the M6 or the hassy, as you seemed very pleased with them already.

 

If you do decide to go with the R8, a 35mm or 50mm summicron is a great starting point. Additional choices depend heavily on your specific needs. Tell us more about what types of photography you'll be doing so we can offer more detailed advice.

 

-Ramy

Hi Peter,

 

There are as many opinions on this subject as there are lenses. Cameraquest has a nice page

that outlines the differences and offers some opinions on each lens. Here is a link:

<a href="http://cameraquest.com/mlenses.htm">http://cameraquest.com/mlenses.htm </a>

Clearly, you should rid yourself of the M6, and clearly the best way to do so is to sell it to me super cheap. This I am willing to do for you.

Hi all,

 

I recenty found an old Leitz Prodovit 250 with a 90mm colorplan for

100 bucks (no remote included). A little steep, but maybe worth it

if it works. Sadly I think it doesn't, but I hope you can help me

verify that before I return it.

 

There are two white switches on the back. One is for power, which

works. The bulb lights up, but the fan doesn't spin. Does the fan

wait until a certain temperature is reached, or should it start

right away?

 

The other switch appears to be for the dark slide, but does nothing.

So I assume it is broken.

 

Finally, I can't slide the tray in, the little white gear on the

left appears to be jammed. I can't tell if that's because the

projector wants to eject a slide (which is not present) or if it is

a mechanical jam. Should you be able to push an empty tray through

one slide at a time? How do you get it to advance without the remote?

 

I'd love to get it working.

Thanks amigos!

 

-Ramy

I managed to remove the beattie by grabbing the tab with some very thin tweezers. The ones on a swiss army knife are thin enough to fit between the body and the top of the tab. I then re-inerted it, and with a cotton glove, gently pushed the back of the screen up into the body. This tiny difference in spacing allows the mirror to operate smoothly now, and all is well.

 

I will send it in to Leica for a checkup, but since I only have one camera, that will have to wait until I get the M I've been saving up for. For what it's worth, everything sounds and feels just fine. Thanks for your help.

 

-Ramy

Last week my camera bag strap unravelled and my bag fell to the

floor. Everything seemed fine since the bag was heavily padded. I

went to shoot, and after mirror returned, the screen fell out. The

fall had knocked it loose. I put it back (incorrectly it seems). On

the next shot, it fell out again (whoops) and got wedged between the

mirror and the body. In carefully removing the screen, careful not to

hurt the mirror, I cracked off the little tab of the screen.

 

So I ordered two new ones from B&H, one Leica, one Beattie

intenscreen.

 

The Leica, of course, fits perfectly and everything works. I tried

the Beattie. It fits clumsily, but I got it to lock in place. Then I

go to fire....jam. Now the mirror is stuck half closed and the screen

doesn't want to budge. I don't know what's going on. Has this

happened to anyone? Is there some special way to remove the Beattie

since they don't quite fit right? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

-Ramy

Git yer lunky square camera and it's bizarre film outta here!

 

I like your images, stick around. But first, sell that behmoth camera and get a sleek, chic M. I like hassy's myself, and if I didn't spend all my money on overpriced Leica crap, I would spend it on overpriced Hasselblad crap.

 

It's probably good that you haven't held an M. They are hard to resist.

 

-Ramy

Inferno is usually in stock at Barnes and Noble, or Borders. I know their respective websites (as well as amazon.com) have it (probably cheaper). It is a very good book.

 

-Ramy

There is no camera on the market that meets or surpasses my R6.2 . There are a couple of all-manual fully mechanical SLRs left, but not many, and I certainly don't think they in any way match up, or I wouldn't have gone for the hideous difference in price. Given that the R6.2 isn't on the market anymore, perhaps this is not a valid point. Other cameras do compare with the R8-9. But I think the Rs are sweeter than everything else, especially now that the Olympus Om-4 is gone. That was really the only competition, I think.

How sad. I thought that was a cute trick.I could have sworn I saw an R8 do real lock-up. Maybe I was wrong about that too. What a pain.

 

-Ramy

Contrary to Jay's post, I think the R8/9 does have a true lockup, and you don't need to release before each exposure. I could be wrong.

 

I use my R6.2 with the little pin supplied by Leica. It is great. If you really need to bracket without re-releasing each time, I think that the lockable cable release will work.

 

-ramy